Oh to have been a fly on the wall…

1970s, alice pollock, bill gibb, british boutique movement, Gina Fratini, jean muir, john bates, lord snowdon, mary quant, ossie clark, thea porter, zandra rhodes

Front row left to right: Jean Muir, Alice Pollock, Thea Porter. Second row: John Bates, Tim Gardner, Gina Fratini. Third row: Bill Gibb, Zandra Rhodes. Top: Mary Quant, Ossie Clark.

So many egos, so little space… I’m placing bets that Quant and Bates didn’t speak to each other for the duration. But it’s also nice to see Bates sitting with his friend Bill Gibb, and now I like to think that Alice Pollock and Thea Porter must have been quite pally as well.

Inspirational Illustrations: Painted Pin-ups by James Wedge

1970s, hand tinting, Inspirational Images, james wedge, miss selfridge, pin ups, swimwear

What is this mysterious alchemy that makes James Wedge’s version of the pin-up cliché somehow completely wonderful to my eyes? I think the hand-tinting is a nod to the fictitious nature of the pin-up, completely revelling in its own artifice and utilizing its superficiality to create something fresh – despite its inherently retrospective origins. Also, it doesn’t involve Photoshop. Modern photographers need to take serious note.

Advertisement for Miss Selfridge, photographed and tinted by James Wedge.

19 Magazine, May 1974. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.







Mild Sauce: Pop in Effigy – A Wife and Two Dollies

allen jones, art, feminism, fetishism, mild sauce, norman parkinson, Vogue

There are times when Allen Jones makes a highly plausible bid to be taken for a fetishist. His paintings of shoes with impossibly high heels are in the realm of phantasy and can only be worn by the phantom of sex appeal that slips them on in the mind’s eye, but they are more likely to be rhinoceros horn to rouse and sustain. Even his paintings of legs, conspicuously shape-conscious though they are, could have been devised to celebrate the stockings. But the true fetishist places his faith on inanimate objects or parts of the body as far away as possible from the sexual zones, and although Jones rarely paints the whole figure, his euphoric images of the cleavage and the crotch are evidence enough that he is far from being at the mercy of symbolic displacements. Until recently, he could probably be described as an aficionado of the choice view, but suddenly all the evocative fragments have come together in three life-size effigies of girls which look so breathtakingly real that when I first saw them  in the artist’s flat I felt that I shouldn’t have entered the room without knocking.

They are made for instant recognition and maximum confrontation. They turn into works of art by rapid but clear-cut stages. Twice over, they are not what they seem. At first they are blindingly girls. Then they are brilliant imitations of girls, cool and arrogant but incapable of lifting a finger against close and impertinent inspection. Finally, inpection makes it clear that their proportions are not human. They are not imitations. They bring to a kind of perfection a convention that has arisen on art’s difficult road back to a humanist figuration.

They present a strong case for the artist as director. Everyone who knows Allen Jones’s paintings will agree that the effigies disclose his formal preoccupations at every turn: but he has not actually made them. It all started on one of his trips to the States, when someone mentioned that there were people in London who were making fabulous life-size dolls. Back in London, he went to see one of these dolls, a likeness of Carroll Baker that had been commissioned by a film director. Only the head had been specially modelled; the body was that of a conventional shop window dummy. The visit brought up the name of Dik Beech, a commercial sculptor who works as a freelance in close association with a company named Gems Wax Models, which makes the moulds and casts for Madame Tussaud`s. Beech brought great professionalism and the neutrality of a craftsman to the task of turning Jones’s drawings and specitications into three-dimensional figures. They were then cast in fibreglass by Gems Wax Models, and sprayed and rubbed down and sprayed again to give them an impeccably smooth, flesh-tinted finish. At this point they were taken over by Lucina della Rocca and entirely repainted by hand. She works for Tussaud’s, and she brought the surfaces of the casts to life with imperceptible nuances of tone. They were now looking the picture of decadent health. The eyes too are painted, and the faces have been given a bold but not exaggerated make·up. Other experts were called in. The leather accessories, including the strap-work on the standing figure, were made by John Sutcliffe of Atomage. The Lurex pants of the girl on her hands and knees were made by Zandra Rhodes and required three fittings. The wigs are by Beyond the Fringe. The gloves, bought at Weiss of Shaftesbury Avenue, are the only accessories that didn’t have to be specially designed.

The figure on hands and knees gazing into a mirror has been designed so that the back of her head and her rear are exactly the same height, to support the clear glass panel which has been made and fixed by Design Animations. It turns her into an anthropomorphic table. Her pose perhaps suggests an undignified obedience, but she can he freed from her glass plate to occupy an easy chair; her arms then stretch out in a striking “hands-off” gesture calculated to send one to the opposite side of the room. It’s indicative of the artist’s purely visual interest in the gear that he was not aware that the strap running from the standing girl’s collar to her G-string would be at the back on a real girl, to compel her to stand up straight: it seems to confirm one’s impression that the girls come from a strip-joint not of this world.

Allen Jones at home, above: his wife and two dollies, opposite. His three life-size effigies, each in an edition of six, will be on show in New York from January 6 at Richard Feigen; in Cologne from mid-January at Gallery Rudolph Zwirner; in London from January 23 at Tooth’s, 31 Bruton St, WC1.

Mild Sauce: The Naked Lunch

1970s, cosmopolitan, jim lee, Le déjeuner sur l'herbe, mild sauce

Jim Lee’s version of Le déjeuner sur l’herbe for Cosmopolitan, June 1974.

Happy St BryanGod Day

amanda lear, brigitte bardot, bryan ferry, celia birtwell, david bailey, david bowie, diana rigg, Foale and Tuffin, kahn and bell, oliver reed, ossie clark, penelope tree, Serge Gainsbourg

Yes, it’s that time of year again. St BryanGod Day. Never heard of it? Pah.

To celebrate, here are some favourite couplings. Some romantic, some creative, some fictitious…

Inspirational Images: Molly Parkin by James Wedge

1970s, cosmopolitan, Inspirational Images, james wedge, molly parkin

Jean Shrimpton – At Home With Fashion

1970s, bus stop, cherry twiss, coopers, janice wainwright, jean shrimpton, jean-loup sieff, ossie clark, sonia rykiel, telegraph magazine

“It is so beautifully cut”. Sabbath Suit by Ossie Clark.

As with so many of my favourite people, I far prefer ‘Seventies Shrimpton’ to her earlier, more famous Bailey-era. This photoshoot is from The Telegraph Magazine, April 1973, and shows Jean returning to the family farm – decked out in all the best designers of the time.

Jean Shrimpton has gained fame, fortune and glamour through her spectacular modelling career, but she seldom spends much money on clothes – although she will, on occasions, treat herself to an extravagance from Ossie Clark, one of her favourite designers. So we asked her to make her own practical choice from the clothes that are in the shops now. We photographed her at her parents’ home – Rose Hill Farm, Burnham in Buckinghamshire.

“Basically I always choose dark clothes because they are practical and don’t show the dirt. I like fairly simple, well-cut, Forties type clothes with big shoulders. I wear a lot of trousers and long skirts and prefer jackets to coats. If I do wear colour it is usually in tights or shoes”

Images scanned by Miss Peelpants

“I like long skirts and I liked the shape of this sweater with the cuffed sleeves and the lower neckline”. Sweater by Rykiel.

“Super, very Forties, lovely grey colour, loose and easy to move in. Very much the sort of thing I wear”. Suit by Coopers.

“A nice simple dress that could be worn anytime”. Dress by Janice Wainwright

“I like small flower prints and this is a very pretty one”. Dress by Bus Stop.

“Very comfortable, I can wear it anywhere”. Jacket and trousers by Coopers.

All images scanned by Miss Peelpants

Mild Sauce: Be Prepared

1970s, Honey Magazine, james wedge, janet reger, mary quant, mild sauce, underwear

Janet Reger

More James Wedge fabulousness. I’m always delighted to find and scan a ‘new’ James Wedge photoshoot, and this one is adorable, despite lacking the trademark Wedge hand-tinted touch.

You never know when next you may stand revealed in the full glory of your underwear. Will it stand the test? Bare with us and we’ll show you how to steal even the most embarrassing scenes in these glamorous, seductive undies-to-get-caught-in.

Honey. December 1972.

Images scanned by Miss Peelpants

Dress from Browns, pants by Warners

Janet Reger

Janet Reger

Madeleine Foundations

Mary Quant

Maidenform

Petals in Poster Colours

Foale and Tuffin, harpers and queen, james wedge, Sally Tuffin, seventies fashion

Incredible clothes by Sally Tuffin, incredible photographs by Mr James Wedge; appealing to my interest in all things clown-ish. I love this photoshoot, even more because I have the blue cape on the picture above. Sadly, the pleats have somewhat fallen out (perhaps someone washed it?) and I have no idea how to put them back in again. Bums. Any advice welcomed…

Harpers and Queen, September 1972.

A glint in the eye and in her garb

biba, bill klein, flair magazine, frank usher, gillian richard, miss mouse, seventies fashion, vidal sassoon

Left: Striped lurex top and pants by Frank Usher, £28.25. Right: Lurex blouse, £11.50 and brocade Oxford bags, £13.50 by Miss Mouse

Scanned from Flair Magazine, October 1972.

Photographed by Bill Klein. Hair by Howard of Vidal Sassoon.

“We photographed at The Club, the latest offering from those well-known restauranteurs Mario and Franco, who have branched out with this exclusive membership club in Belgravia.”

Left: Sequin wrap jacket by Biba, £20. Right: Wrapover jacket by Biba, £18. Satin Oxford bags by Gillian Richard, £5.60.