With Reference To The Past

19 magazine, 1970s, Browns, cacharel, coopers, Crochetta, Deco Inspired, edward mann, erica budd, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Ku Khanh, lord john, Norma Moriceau, Riva, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, terry de havilland, tuttabankem, Twomax, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, Virginia, Vivienne Lynn
Rust-coloured felt hat with rose trimming from a selection at Van Der Fransen. French Dresden blue shirt with pink and lilac floral print, by Jeff Banks, £6.50. Grey boucle cardigan with short puff sleeves and front fastening, by Crochetta, £6.50. Pale blue circular barathea skirt, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £12. Scarf by Herbert Johnson, £3-15. Green straw hat with rose trimming, from Universal Witness, £5. Blue sweater with long sleeves and round neck, £2.45. Matching short-sleeved cardigan with wrap-over front, £3.45. Both by Erica Budd. Grey crepe Oxford bags with pleated front, by Tuttabankem, £17-50.

Ten years ago, the British woman was bound to her cardigan. Then, in a feverish review of fashion, the cardigan was shelved for the jacket. Now, it’s back in circulation, not as the rather insipid number of yesteryear, but renewed in a long wrap-around version — the sort you cuddle into when it’s cold outside, the sort you wear over dresses, jeans or even suits. Cardigans like this are the most practical knitwear created for ages and the Paris Collections, if they spell excitement to you, were full of them.

All jewellery in feature from a selection at Marie Middleton and Susan Marsh at Chelsea Antique Market. Gold-rimmed glasses from any good optician.

Modelled by Vivienne Lynn and unknown model.

Styling by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by Ku Khanh.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1973.

Dark green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale green fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Cream bouclé short-sleeved cardigan with very thin stripes, by Crochetta, £8. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale yellow fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Yellow cardigan with two pockets on hips, by Twomax, £4.50.
Sweater and matching cardigan in blue tweed mixture with beige and brown trims, from Upstairs at Lord John, £25 the set. Camel barathea skirt with full front flap, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11.95. White shirt with black and yellow floral print, by Riva, £4-95. Grey cardigan with yellow stripe, by Virginia, £14. Grey wrap-over barathea skirt with pockets on hips, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11-95. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.
Green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale blue flower-printed sleeveless blouse with cowl neck, £4. Brown flowered crepe skirt, £6. Both from Van Der Fransen. Pink wool and angora cardigan, by Crochetta, £10. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, £5. Cream and brown printed short-sleeved blouse with two breast pockets, matching skirt with elasticated waistband, £11.60 the set. All by Universal Witness. Green wool and angora cardigan with ribbed waistband, by Crochetta, £10.
Brown felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Pink and violet print blouse with cape collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long cream boucle cardigan with hip pockets and tie belt, by Crochetta, £13. Black jersey skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black and white lace-up ankle boots, by Terry de Haviland, £15.99. Wool gloves, by Morley, 72p. Grey felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Blue and white spotted sleeveless blouse, with cowl collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long white ribbed cardigan with hip pockets, by Twomax, £7.50. Long grey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black wool gloves from a selection at Browns.
Black cotton shirt with floral print, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Camel cardigan with V-neck and thin white stripes, by Virginia, £15. Black jersey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Cream jersey dress with scalloped Peter Pan collar, by Gillian Richard, £9.80. Long navy blue cardigan with round neck, by McCaul, £4. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.

The Soft Touch

1970s, annacat, Ballantyne, Buckle Under, C&A, coopers, cosmopolitan, Deirdre McSharry, Fenwick, Herbert Johnson, Ian Knipe, Inspirational Images, irvine sellars, Janet Ibbotson, Jasper, jean varon, Jenny Harrington, john bates, John Craig, john kelly, Samm, Spectrum, terry de havilland, The Purple Shop, Trille, Turnbull & Asser, Vintage Editorials
Just the jacket, for interviewing the gardener… if he’s as handsome as Ian Knipe. Trille does the Lady Bountiful bit in yellow and a romantic hat. Jacket C&A £9.95, felt hat by Herbert Johnson, pearls by Ciro. Yellow angora sweater by John Craig, £2.10.

There is a licence to touch all the clothes on these pages. There is not a single trad, scratchy, thornproof tweed among any of the frankly tactile silks, angoras and flannels of autumn. Jerseys and pearls and sensible shoes were once the uniform of the WI. Now, (well) kept ladies whose fingers smell of “Cabochard” rather than cabbage, are pressing their flannel bags, having their pearls restrung and are wearing them with shirts so unbuttoned they could catch pneumonia – and heels high enough to rise above the muddiest farmyard. They are taking to pleated kilts, and cashmere sweaters so tight they’d enliven the dullest game of backgammon. Dinner dresses are back in style, and I do mean back down as far as you can go. Properly and provocatively dressed, a weekend in the country might be more fun than you think.

Hair arranged for all pictures by Carl of Molton Brown.

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by John Kelly.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, October 1972.

Give into the call of the wild, but come on softly in silk, angora and flannel. Jenny Harrington sends Ian Knipe slightly wild in her silk shirt, £15, flannel bags £16.50 by Annacat, and angora cardigan, John Craig £5. Fish pendant by Ciro. Ian’s camelhair sweater Ballantyne, £11.50. (Inset: The smoothest tweed in the softest shape will make you want to throw away your old trench. A great way to look for opening bazaars – and coping with Mellors. Coat by Coopers £33, hat by Herbert Johnson, £8.95.)
What would the WI say? Trille lolls about in cashmere sweater, skirt and pearls- -and shoes too high for country lawns. Sweater £11, skirt £30, both by Ballantyne. Pearls by Ciro. Shoes by Samm, £7.50.
Who’s for backgammon? Trille and Jenny get down to it (right) in necklines that ought to fetch the men from their port, on the double. Trille in red jersey dinner dress, John Bates for Jean Varon £16.75, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95, pearls by Ciro. Jenny in cream satin shirt by Coopers, £8, and pleated plaid skirt, Gor-Ray f11.95. Red shoes by Samm, £7.50.
The sporting life means quick repairs on the run. Jenny puts back the paint, stays ladylike in powder soft suede and silk. Jacket and skirt by Janet Ibbotson; the jacket costs £38, the skirt £33.50. Silk shirt Fenwicks, £11.50. Jewellery and shagreen compact from The Purple Shop. Shoes by Samm, £7.95.
Long weekends can lead to explosive situations – Jenny ignites something in her cashmere and kilt. Sweater by Ballantyne £13.50, skirt by Gor-Ray £11.95, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95. Pearls by Ciro. Ian in ruffled lawn shirt, Turnbull and Asser £11.75, check trousers Irvine Sellars £5.95.
By dawn’s early light a lady likes to relax. Ian wears C & A velvet suit £28; Trille in taffeta skirt and blouse, £5.50 each from Spectrum. Rose 84p from Spectrum. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, £12.99.
The softest touch of all is this mohair sweater (right), and a far cry from the clumpy rustic knits we used to wear. Jenny puts the new country clothes together gently—pink sweater, Buckle Under £12, pink wool skirt, Spectrum £6.95, hat by Herbert Johnson £7.50. Ian’s shirt by Jasper £5.50, check trousers £6.95 by Irvine Sellars. (Inset: Soft again —cream flannel blouse and satin trousers whipped up with beads and roses. Jenny’s blouse £5.50, trousers £5.50, flowers 84p, all from Spectrum. Ian’s blue shirt by Mr Harry £7.65.)

Chiconomy

19 magazine, 1970s, Ace, coopers, Inspirational Images, Ivory, Joseph, Ku Khanh, Russell & Bromley, Swanky Modes, Vintage Editorials
Blouse by Sue Barnes for Coopers. Shorts by British Home Stores. Black sandals by Ravel. Glasses by Primetta.

For the budget-conscious with imagination, high fashion is well within reach and, as you can see, many of these crisp, colourful cottons are from surplus and chain stores and even supermarkets. Take a look at Tesco where we picked up an amazing cotton top for only £3.99! We also dressed up the one-time overall by belting the waist, adding masses of jewellery and finishing off with high, strappy shoes.

To prove how good these outfits can look, we shot the photos in Rodeo Drive, a snob area in Beverly Hills. So never turn your nose up at a bargain.

Photographed by Ku Khanh. Hair and make-up by Colin Booker.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1979

Overall from Laurence Corner. Mules by Russell & Bromley. Earrings from Swanky Modes. Belt by Trimfit. Brooch on belt from Swanky Modes.
Navy blouse by Tesco. White pleated skirt by Pret-a-Porter. Blue sandals by Ivory. Glasses from Bombacha. Earrings and necklace from Ace. Pearl bracelet from Joseph. Belt by Trimfit. Brooch by Nicholas Adams.
Lilac overall from Laurence Corner. Lilac strappy sandals by Ivory. Glasses by Primetta. Earrings and necklace from Ace. Satin belt by Trimfit.

The Thigh’s the Limit

1970s, chelsea cobbler, christa peters, coopers, Inspirational Images, Midas, observer magazine, Russell & Bromley, Samuel Sherman, Vintage Editorials, Wendy Dagworthy

thighs-the-limit

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Observer Magazine, 15th February 1976.

thighs-the-limit-1

Pleated cotton skirt and tunic top by Chatelaine. Sandals from Midas.

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Blue stripe pinafore dress by Coopers. Sandals by Midas.

thighs-the-limit-2

Red silk embroidered tabard dress by Wendy Dagworthy. Navy sandals from Russell & Bromley.

thighs-the-limit-3

Sailing boat print dress by Samuel Sherman. Navy espadrilles by Chelsea Cobbler.

Shades of Miami Beach

1970s, coopers, Di Saunders, Inspirational Images, Over 21, Sunglasses, Titfers

Scanned from Over 21, September 1972. Photographed by Christian Larroque.

Pat Cleveland in Cosmopolitan, 1973

1970s, coopers, cosmopolitan, david montgomery, Inspirational Images, pat cleveland, Walter Steiger

The wondrous Pat Cleveland from the spread which has already given us Ika Hindley and Gabrielle Drake. Pat is wearing shoes by Walter Steiger and a canvas suit from Coopers which ‘flaunts her amazing bottom’.

“Dressing up is for joy. Colour brings me out of my depression. Red makes me feel like a flower ready to be plucked, green is peaceful. I can feel yellow … A man can recognise the smell of his woman wherever she is.”

Cosmopolitan, June 1973. Photographed by David Montgomery. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Jean Shrimpton – At Home With Fashion

1970s, bus stop, cherry twiss, coopers, janice wainwright, jean shrimpton, jean-loup sieff, ossie clark, sonia rykiel, telegraph magazine

“It is so beautifully cut”. Sabbath Suit by Ossie Clark.

As with so many of my favourite people, I far prefer ‘Seventies Shrimpton’ to her earlier, more famous Bailey-era. This photoshoot is from The Telegraph Magazine, April 1973, and shows Jean returning to the family farm – decked out in all the best designers of the time.

Jean Shrimpton has gained fame, fortune and glamour through her spectacular modelling career, but she seldom spends much money on clothes – although she will, on occasions, treat herself to an extravagance from Ossie Clark, one of her favourite designers. So we asked her to make her own practical choice from the clothes that are in the shops now. We photographed her at her parents’ home – Rose Hill Farm, Burnham in Buckinghamshire.

“Basically I always choose dark clothes because they are practical and don’t show the dirt. I like fairly simple, well-cut, Forties type clothes with big shoulders. I wear a lot of trousers and long skirts and prefer jackets to coats. If I do wear colour it is usually in tights or shoes”

Images scanned by Miss Peelpants

“I like long skirts and I liked the shape of this sweater with the cuffed sleeves and the lower neckline”. Sweater by Rykiel.

“Super, very Forties, lovely grey colour, loose and easy to move in. Very much the sort of thing I wear”. Suit by Coopers.

“A nice simple dress that could be worn anytime”. Dress by Janice Wainwright

“I like small flower prints and this is a very pretty one”. Dress by Bus Stop.

“Very comfortable, I can wear it anywhere”. Jacket and trousers by Coopers.

All images scanned by Miss Peelpants