Inspirational Images: Gauchos

1970s, Bellini, british boutique movement, chelsea girl, gauchos, Inspirational Images, jean muir, Kaffe Fassett, Nigel Lofthouse, norman parkinson, Veronica Marsh, Vogue
Needlepoint waistcoat by Kaffe Fassett for Beatrice Bellini, £25 to order, Women's Home Industries' Tapestry Shop. Suede gauchos, fine jersey shirt, both by JEan Muir. Perspex belt by Nigel Lofthouse for Jean Muir. Chillies Christel at Elliott. Panne velvet muffler by Veronica Marsh for Jacqmar.

Needlepoint waistcoat by Kaffe Fassett for Beatrice Bellini, £25 to order, Women’s Home Industries’ Tapestry Shop. Suede gauchos, fine jersey shirt, both by Jean Muir. Perspex belt by Nigel Lofthouse for Jean Muir. Ghillies by Christel at Elliott. Panne velvet muffler by Veronica Marsh for Jacqmar.

Gauchos remain one of my favourite looks at the moment. Indeed, I am wearing a pair of tweed Chelsea Girl gauchos as I write this. It’s one of those looks which will, inevitably, make a comeback, and I will be tiresomely reminding people that ‘I was doing it ages ago!’. As it is, I am just continuing to enjoy wearing them, enjoying the curiousity and comments, and educating people to call them ‘gauchos’ rather than ‘culottes’. Then I will just have to move onto knickerbockers…

Photographed by Norman Parkinson.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, September 1970

Inspirational Images: Lounging in Deco

1970s, art deco, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, rolph gobits, Vintage Adverts
piguet advert

“Is it so shameless”, she murmered, “to be so sure of something so expensive?”

Detail from Audemar Piguet watch advert.

Photographed by Rolph Gobits (originally from the same shoot as one featured in the Big Biba newspaper in 1973. Thanks to Sweet Jane for confirming this).

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, December 1978

Catherine Buckley: A vision in Edwardiana…

1970s, british boutique movement, catherine buckley, website listings

catherinebuckley1

I don’t often post about individual garments listed over at Vintage-a-Peel, but some things are just that special…

Ethereally beautiful gown by Catherine Buckley, using fabric designed by Veronica Holden. Buckley is best known for her designs for Joanna Lumley as Purdey in The New Avengers. She otherwise maintained a low profile, producing idiosyncratically period-style fantasy garments, often incorporating original antique fabrics. This garment uses a replica fabric, a cream net with delicate lace flowers, embroidered flowers nearer the hem and hand-painted green and pink tones.

The style is unmistakeably, and almost accurately, Belle Epoque. From the delicate lace ruffles which cascade over the shoulders and down the back, to the deep ruffled hem, to the extraordinary fabric covered buttons which are the only fastening. Buckley’s pieces are always extraordinary and as near to couture as you can get from the British Boutique era. I would put her on a par with Thea Porter and Gina Fratini; less ethnic-inspired than Thea Porter and less utterly insane than Fratini, a truly ‘English’ look. Refined and feminine, sophisticated and elegant…

Available at Vintage-a-Peel.co.uk or over on Etsy if you prefer…

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catherinebuckley-label

Guy Day: Bring your man up to date

1970s, british boutique movement, hard rock cafe, leonard, Marc Leonard, Mensday, menswear, missoni, mr freedom, sonia rykiel, stirling cooper, Tommy Roberts, vanity fair
Look at him. God's gift to women.

“Look at him. God’s gift to women.

But before you start chucking him back, remember the average British male is all you’ve got to work on. So get working on him. Tell him you think his barber stinks. Say you’ll scream if he turns up in that seedy safari jacket, with those baggy drainpipes, and bunion-hugging shoes again. Meantime, wear this pale blue hooded coat £45, matching poloneck with red chevron front £21, and matching trousers £28. All by Sonia Rykiel at Browns.”

This is a quite-frankly-amazing little photo story from Vanity Fair, which sees our Cinderfella hero being taken from baggy drainpipes to novelty-print-shirted Hard Rock Cafe God, via the Kensington Church Street branch of Mr Freedom and Leonard of Mayfair.

Photographed by Marc Leonard. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1972

Once he's started growing his hair,

“Once he’s started growing his hair,

…swap the chat for action. Shove him into Mr. Freedom, 2- Kensington Church Street, W8. Strip off his drainpipes and fit him into a pair of red velvet jeans, £7.75. Rip off his jacket and zip him into a red-and-white satin top, £7.95. (It’s got FAR OUT splashed over the shoulders to make sure he gets the message). And while you’re there, buy yourself some pale blue satin trousers, £5.25, a furry acrylic leopard-skin blouse, £9.95, and a black pom-pom beret, £4.”

This is when the sow's ear really turns into a silk purse.

“This is when the sow’s ear really turns into a silk purse.

He’s at Leonard, 6 Upper Grosvenor Street, W1 (even if you had to frog march him there), being tactfully handled by Peter. Wash, cut and blow-dry costs £3.75, beard 5-p. extra – not much when you consider it’s made a mean-moody-magnificent out of that surly yobo of yours.”

Doesn't he look lovely?

“Doesn’t he look lovely?

Sitting in the Hard Rock Cafe in his grey wool barathea Stirling Cooper suit, £28.00 with a waistcoat, and his tiny-man-patterned shirt, £4.90. Both from Way-In, Hans Crescent, SW1. You’re in your Missoni four-piece (orangey battledress top, matching trousers, orange silky blouse and toning striped tank top). £75 from Browns. Thinking what a perfect couple you make. Except that now he’s thinking: ‘Blimey mate, you could do a lot better than her if you tried.'”

Vintage Adverts: Steiner. The first name in Photomontage

1970s, cosmopolitan, mild sauce, photomontage, Vintage Adverts

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Oh I do love a bit of photomontage, and this Steiner hair advert is just glorious. It was certainly a favourite technique of James Wedge, but I’m not sure they’re quite his style – they’re rather more straightforward and less painted. Although that’s not to denigrate them; I love the simplicity of the layout, which belies how entirely fiendish it was to make pictures like this. We take such effects for granted in the age of photoshop, but these would have been incredibly time-consuming…

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, October 1973

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Ossie, Ossie, Ossie

1970s, celebrities in vintage, doctor who, doctor who companion fashion, ossie clark
Jenna Coleman

Jenna Coleman: Maintaining the tradition of well-dressed Sixties/Seventies-era Doctor Who companions…

Intriguing times. Three different television starlets wore vintage Ossie Clark to the National Television Awards last night. All three were wrap dresses, all variations on Ossie’s signature design. I find it intriguing because the wrap dress is by no means Ossie’s only style, and none of them featured a Celia Birtwell print: Jenna Coleman and Kelly Brook both wore black crepe and Rachel Wilde wore iridescent satin. The similarities between the three ladies and the three dresses enable us to view Ossie’s designs through very different eyes at the same time.

Rachel Wilde

Rachel Wilde

Both Brook and Wilde were deemed, by the tabloids at least, to have suffered ‘wardrobe malfunctions’ and their beautiful dresses garnered them places on ‘worst dressed’ lists. Indeed, the hysteria – a curious mix of lasciviousness and prim puritanism – surrounding Brook’s very visible nipples was bordering on the sinister. For why on earth, one wonders, is a 40-year-old dress causing such ripples of disapproval? In a world where you can – quite frankly – see Kelly Brook’s nipples any time you want by googling her Playboy shoot, and other starlets are wearing skimpier, shorter and more see-through outfits on any night of the year, why is a bit of moss crepe causing such a brouhaha?

It says something about the design genius of Ossie, and of his understanding of sensuality, that an artfully revealing floor length dress (covering all the flesh except a triangle of cleavage and an occasional flash of leg) is somehow being seen as incredibly rude and almost nude. It also says something deeply unpleasant about the unnecessarily bright flash bulbs of the modern press photographer, doesn’t it? Moss crepe is only transparent when you fire a bright light through it, and the bulbs of the Sixties and Seventies would never have caused such an effect. I think it’s pretty much obvious that such wardrobe malfunctions are a creation of the press; Brook’s nipples would not have been visible in person or on the television cameras.

Kelly Brook, and her nipples.

Kelly Brook, and her nipples.

Of course, Ms. Brook is famous for her curves and not exactly averse to a bit of publicity – whatever the cause may be. I’m not saying she did this deliberately from the start, but even if her stylist gently pointed out that there might (just might) be a bit of an issue, then she may well have shrugged it off as nothing to worry about. Which is fine and dandy.

In fact, without realising it, she was really fulfilling Ossie’s original intent. He didn’t like people wearing underwear with his clothes. He designed so that the breasts are supported by the garment itself, and he felt that underwear ruined the line. I don’t think he planned for flashbulbs, but I imagine he would have been delighted by the outrage his designs continue to cause.

Jenna Coleman

Jenna Coleman

Personally, I think the best dressed of the night – never mind the best Ossie – was Jenna Coleman. I don’t know how she underpinned her Ossie, but there are no nipples and no knickers involved. I also think that the way you style your hair and make-up, and the way you hold yourself makes a big difference; Coleman wins on all fronts. It might not be outrageous, rude or shocking, but ultimately I think Ossie would have been the most happy to see this gorgeous, talented young lady wearing his dress in a supremely sophisticated way. Similar dresses, very different styles…

Inspirational Editorials: By Royal Command for Public Demand

1970s, barbara hulanicki, biba, Bob Richardson, british boutique movement, Inspirational Images, platforms, Vintage Editorials


The Duchess of Windsor has been the epitome of elegance for thousands of people, as she manages to combine originality and chic in such a feminine way. With her faultless dress sense in mind, Barbara Hulanicki of Biba designed some of these outfits exclusively for 19, keeping the theme black and white as that most associated with the elegance of the ‘Thirties. We take you back, in affectionate nostalgia, to the days of tea at the Ritz, when immaculately dressed ladies and gentlemen listened to a string orchestra, while nibbling cucmber sandwiches and sipping China tea.

Photographed by Bob Richardson.

Model is Donna Jordan

Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1972.


Inspirational Images: An Emeraude Stream…

1970s, barry lategan, Boston-151, Coty, Inspirational Images, japonisme, Kanei Orimono, Kansai Yamamoto, marie helvin, Vogue
...in a leafy glade - the green and woody scent of Coty's Emeraude. Short beige silk kimono, £35, scarf, £8, printed with figures by Kansai Yamamoto, matching umbrella by Kanei Orimono, £5 from Boston-151.

…in a leafy glade – the green and woody scent of Coty’s Emeraude. Short beige silk kimono, £35, scarf, £8, printed with figures by Kansai Yamamoto, matching umbrella by Kanei Orimono, £5 from Boston-151.

Modelled by Marie Helvin. Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, August 1971

Inspirational Images: David Fielden advert

1970s, Antiquarius, David Fielden, Inspirational Images, king's road, Michael Costiff, Richard Sharah, ritz magazine, Vintage Adverts

david fielden ritz 78

David Fielden: downstairs at Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, 01 352 4739

Photographed by Michael Costiff. Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Scanned from Ritz, Number 15 1978

Inspirational Editorials: How to mix the powder blues

1970s, biba, british boutique movement, charles jourdan, gauchos, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, kensington market, Marielle, mary quant, Max Maxwell, Rosalind Yehuda, simon massey, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Cotton knit jacket and pink gauchos by Rosalind Yehuda. Feather print blouse by Jeff Banks. Felt cloche at Biba. Over the knee socks by Mary Quant.

Cotton knit jacket and pink gauchos by Rosalind Yehuda. Feather print blouse by Jeff Banks. Felt cloche at Biba. Over the knee socks by Mary Quant.

Completely flawlessly perfectly early Seventies…

Photographed by Max Maxwell. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, February 1971.

Silk dress by Marielle

Silk dress by Marielle. Glass beads from Cardine’s Stall, Kensington Market. Suede sandals by Charles Jourdan.

Smock blouse with muffler andcrepe gauchos by Simon Massey. Shoes by Mary Quant.

Smock blouse with muffler and crepe gauchos by Simon Massey. Shoes by Mary Quant.