Fulham Road Boutiques

1970s, Boston-151, british boutique movement, Carlos Arias, Early Bird, Gundrun Boston, hollywood clothes shop, Illustrations, Jacqui Smale, jean muir, Kaffe Fassett, laura ashley, Lillian Delevoryas, michael chow, missoni, Valerie Goad, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
Early Bird, 20 Park Walk, has long velvet dresses, ruched sleeves, frilly cuffs, or hooded. All washable, 15gns (£15.75).

The only Earlybird pieces I have encountered don’t really warrant such a sexy illustration, but it’s always nice to flesh out a lesser known boutique label when you can! The advert accompanies a feature on boutiques in the Fulham Road, with a lovely lengthy description of both Laura Ashley and Boston-151 amongst others.

You can begin on the outskirts of Brompton Village, just past Habitat, with the best of fashion, then move on for miles—literally—past spaghetti, spaghetti, hamburgers, junk and tortoises, the Chelsea Supporters’ Club and Fulham Broadway, until you arrive at Pollyanna’s excellent children’s clothes, 660; The East & West Superette, at 694, continental groceries; Fulham Surplus Stores, 686, bargains like army surplus arctic fleecy coat linings at £5.

Clothes you really want to own: Laura Ashley, 157, a big barn of remarkably low-priced things—Jacqui Smale’s demure print dresses, fine white tucked camisole petticoats, or nightdresses, shirts, print and plain velveteen and corduroy in colours of cloudy blue, dull purple, faded rose made into baggy knickerbockers, capes, shirts.

Boston-151, 151, is Gundrun Boston’s new beautiful clothes place, “filled with all the things I’d like to buy and never can find”. The functional chic workshop design is by Michael Chow. big lacquered tin central changing room, black mirror, clothes easy to look at and get at, a sewing lady sewing away instead of window dressing. Watch for: incredible hand-sewn clothes by Carlos Arias, his peasant print silk and cotton shirts, panne velvet ones too with tasselled ribbons, Mohammedan bloomers and boleros, soft dishcloth crochet dresses inset with Ibiza embroidery. These have clinging tops and flowing skirts and you tie yourself in (he practically never uses zips). There are Turkish mixed prints of marvellous cut, caftans made from rare Edwardian and Twenties fabrics. Kaffe Fassett’s macrame work, wool and string chokers and belts, old stones, ivory elephants threaded in,
hours of work. Boston & Kaffe’s subtle patterned knits, kimonos, sweaters, skirts; Chloe and Jean Muir. Lillian Delevoryas’ picture patchworked clothes. Linen shepherd smocks and jackets with velvet binding. Crochet cloche hats and ties where almost every stitch changes colour. Sexy seamless sweaters. Missoni knitted things from Milan, T-shirts, skirts and trousers so light you can wear several at once, and Kaffe Fassett evolves their colour schemes so you can imagine how lovely they are. Classic tailored trousers. Brown string butchers’ bags. Linen duffle bags stencilled with Boston-151 and made up in the workshops at Wormwood Scrubs. Valerie Goad, 185-7, has grown. She has 30 designs and more of best dresses, midi and long, shirts that match skirts and knickerbockers. There are Liberty wools, plain and print velvets and voile. Everything can be made to measure for a few guineas more, dresses, for instance, are from 19 gns (£19.95). Rene Aubrey, 122, 370 4745, hairdresser, has just opened a men’s salon next door. Early Bird, 20 Park Walk, has long velvet dresses, ruched sleeves, frilly cuffs, or hooded. All washable, 15 gns (£15.75).

Dean Rogers, 60, is a new man’s shop, with excellent-fitting trousers, velvets, tweed, cashmere, home-spun knitting, good belts and shirts. They open until 10.30 pm. Piero de Monzi, 70, is a double-fronted elegant shop with classic French and Italian clothes for men and women. Shirts from 5 gns (15.25) in delicate prints, exuberant Ken Scott prints, plain voiles, fine jerseys. Daniel Hechter suede and fleece greatcoats. Belts from 4 gns (£4.20), weighty affairs of hide and snake and brass. Suits, jackets, trousers, in bird’s eye tweed, velvet, gabardine, denim. Italian shoes, 16 gns (116.80). Next month an early spring fall of languid V de V clothes, moons, stars, wavy bands and boats knitted in. One partner, Alain Mertens, has opened the DM Gallery next door, 72, with Paolozzi, Hockney, multiple multiples, chic Italian design as in the perfect transistor. Imogens, 274, is ethnic: Palestinian embroidered wedding dresses, Kurtas, burnooses, shawls, belts, Israeli glass, Middle Eastern rugs and trinkets.

Afew months ago Kjeld Jacobsen opened Danish Silver Designs at 84. He’s a goldsmith turned business man, the jewellery shown comes from about 10 workshops in Den-mark and has a nordic coolness—strange pale stones, precise curves and spirals, 80 per cent in silver, a little gold. Special orders are dealt with by Jens Torp who can be seen at work through a window in the back of the showroom; this keeps the customers happy while they wait. Prices from £24100. Opposite the Queen’s Elm pub is that smart new block. There’s Alistair Colvin, 116, decorator and antique dealer, a drawing-room-sized shop, bizarre and interesting pieces. Zarach, 110. They’re the Sander Mirror Company, with elegant modern design grafted on. Downstairs there’s a new mirror showroom, looking glass in fifteen shades, antiqued, smoky, marbled, tortoiseshell, almost any effect -you could wish for, from £3 per square foot. Upstairs, with David Hicks black and white carpet, royal tartan blue walls, are beautifully designed things from Italy like Perspex ice buckets, boxes, clocks, spot lamps; status bibelots, work by Ciancimino, Billy McCarty, Tony Stubbin, Jon Bannen-berg, all Hicks carpets of course. Look out for the Italian gong chair. Rubber stretched on a round chrome frame and comfortable.

Travelling on to the heart of the Fulham Road, Charles Quinlan, 309, does upholstery work, recaning, polishing, loose covers and curtains. Tulleys, 289, have everything and endless windows of second-hand furniture, pale ranks of calico-covered sofas and chairs. Humpherson, 186, are the builders’ merchants who have a three-floor showhouse of bathrooms and kitchens. Solarbo, 230, make pelmets, curtain rails, cupboards, sliding doors, louvred doors (made to measure for no extra cost, and in do-it-yourself kits), a flexible shelf and drawer storage system with clear plastic or white wire baskets. Jonathan Minns, 1a Hollywood Road, a few feet off the Fulham Road, is a fascinating machinery shop, industrial and scientific antiquities, model ships, traction engines, locomotives like Birmingham Piddlers, extraordinary machines for extraordinary work like stitching army tents in Poona. All serious stuff and remarkably pleasing to look at. If Mr Minns isn’t driving traction engines at 6 mph through the countryside, or setting up museums with his new company Industrial Originals, he’ll be in the shop to explain it all. Hollywood [a.k.a The Hollywood Clothes Shop], 10 Hollywood Road, has ravishing thirties and forties clothes. From here down to Stamford Bridge are small nests of antique shops. Among the most interesting: Goldsworthy, 346, for a pair of gilded Siamese umbrellas. Stephen Long, 348, with painted bamboo, doll’s house furniture, tapestry bell pulls, bits of this and that, biscuit tins, patchwork quilts, books on bezique and cribbage, all the charming funny household paraphernalia of the past 150 years. Arthur Brown, 392-400, has everything. Perce Rye, 495, has Invincible Motor Policies.

And go back to Finchs, 190, for a drink, to find the village nucleus of excellent food shops and eating places. Hazel’s, 172, sell the finest fruits and vegetables. There are specialists in kebabs, ice-creams, pizzas, traditional English fare (as in Hungry Horse, 196). If you don’t wish to queue for hours outside The Great American Disaster, 325, for the greatest hamburgers and milkshakes this side of the Atlantic, then try the new Parsons Café Royal & Old Spaghetti Factory, 311: spaghetti, choice of six sauces, garlic, bread and salad for 9s (45p).

Text by Antonia Williams.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1971.

Christmas party pieces for dazzlers

19 magazine, 1970s, alkasura, Bellini, Cathee Dahmen, Crochetta, David Anthony, Essences, Essenses, gillian richard, missoni, Tsaritsa, Vintage Editorials
Multi-coloured lurex hat, by Missoni from Browns, £10. Exclusive black silk chiffon top, made to order at Tsaritsar. Knife pleated purple satin skirt from Alkasura, £10. Circular peacock fan from a selection at Essences.

Bright skirts and tops make it easy to dazzle this Christmas. Wear shiny accessories, flourish a peacock fan, add a lurex scarf. Outshine the twinkling fairy lights and sparkling decorations! Bright skirts and tops make it easy to dazzle this Christmas. Wear shiny accessories, flourish a peacock fan, add a lurex scarf. Outshine the twinkling fairy lights and sparkling decorations!

One of the most incomparably beautiful editorials I have had the pleasure of scanning, with a little insight into the ‘vintage’ market of the early Seventies (most of the sequined pieces appear to be original Twenties and Thirties from Essences, one of those places I would make a beeline for if I ever found that time machine). Also, glitter eyebrows. Swoon.

Model is Cathee Dahmen.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1973.

Net cap, with seed pearl trim, from a selection at Essences, £8.50. Green lurex halter neck by Crochetta, £6. Gold sequin bolero, from a selection at Essences, £15. Knife pleated gold taffeta skirt from Alkasura, £10. Green glitter evening bag from a selection at Essences, £12.50. Yellow shot lurex scarf by Bellino, 25p.

Sequin hat, with trim on side, from a selection at Essences, £8.50. Black and green lurex, heart shaped halter neck knee length ress and matching black and green lurex cardigan, by Gillian Richard, £12.95. Black lace gloves from a selection at Essences, £5.

White sequin hat, £8.50. Black sequin sleeveless top, £15. Both from a selection at Essences. Black velvet jacket, with silver stars embossed all over, made to order by Tsaritsar. Knife pleated silver skirt from Alkasura, £10.

Sequined skull cap and sequin bolero. Both from a selection at Essences.

The Prints of Darkness

1970s, barbara daly, charles jourdan, Chloe, christian dior, francois lamy, Franka, Garrard, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, missoni, N. Bloom, Yuki
Orange and yellow printed Liberty silk harem suit with loose divided skirt cuffed in orange silk at ankles by Yuki. Jade disc and 24ct gold necklace and bracelet by N. Bloom.

Hair by Alex at Ginger Group.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Francois Lamy.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, May 1975.

Long skirt and shawl in orange, purple and mauve printed jersey. Mauve vest and mauve and beige belt. All by Missoni from Browns.
Lilac, pink and mauve crepe de Chine evening dress in tiny flower sprig print with purple edged poncho by Christian Dior-London. Coral, gold and green mother of pearl bead necklace from Jones. Diamond and gold bangle from Garrard.
Lilac crepe de Chine evening robe, printed with orchids in darker lilac and pale print by Chloé at Browns. Opaque glass and amethyst necklaces from N. Bloom. Pale lilac kid shoes with wedge heels by Charles Jourdan.
Orange and pink hand-printed chiffon dress with ruff collar, made to measure by Franka. Long coral beads by N. Bloom. Coral kid strappy sandals by Charles Jourdan.

Look ravishing, Italian style

1970s, barry lategan, charles jourdan, Inspirational Images, missoni, moyra swan, Pedro Garcia, Russell & Bromley, The Purple Shop, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

missoni-2

Clothes by Missoni. Butterflies and beads from The Purple Shop.

Ottavio and Rosita Missoni are to Italian knit as Gucci is to leather. Using inspiration from original an unexpected quarters – a piece of antique porcelain, a fragment of embroidery, a picture painted by someone they then employ in their factory and train to use their knitting machines – together they produce the most beautiful knits in ravishing colours, extraordinary patterns and perfect shapes.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1971.

missoni-3

Clothes by Missoni. Pendant from The Purple Shop. Shoes from K Shoes.

missoni-1

Clothes by Missoni. Claret platforms by Charles Jourdan.

missoni-4

Clothes by Missoni. Feather choker from The Purple Shop. Suede sandals by Pedro Garcia for Russell & Bromley.

Guy Day: Bring your man up to date

1970s, british boutique movement, hard rock cafe, leonard, Marc Leonard, Mensday, menswear, missoni, mr freedom, sonia rykiel, stirling cooper, Tommy Roberts, vanity fair

Look at him. God's gift to women.

“Look at him. God’s gift to women.

But before you start chucking him back, remember the average British male is all you’ve got to work on. So get working on him. Tell him you think his barber stinks. Say you’ll scream if he turns up in that seedy safari jacket, with those baggy drainpipes, and bunion-hugging shoes again. Meantime, wear this pale blue hooded coat £45, matching poloneck with red chevron front £21, and matching trousers £28. All by Sonia Rykiel at Browns.”

This is a quite-frankly-amazing little photo story from Vanity Fair, which sees our Cinderfella hero being taken from baggy drainpipes to novelty-print-shirted Hard Rock Cafe God, via the Kensington Church Street branch of Mr Freedom and Leonard of Mayfair.

Photographed by Marc Leonard. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1972

Once he's started growing his hair,

“Once he’s started growing his hair,

…swap the chat for action. Shove him into Mr. Freedom, 2- Kensington Church Street, W8. Strip off his drainpipes and fit him into a pair of red velvet jeans, £7.75. Rip off his jacket and zip him into a red-and-white satin top, £7.95. (It’s got FAR OUT splashed over the shoulders to make sure he gets the message). And while you’re there, buy yourself some pale blue satin trousers, £5.25, a furry acrylic leopard-skin blouse, £9.95, and a black pom-pom beret, £4.”

This is when the sow's ear really turns into a silk purse.

“This is when the sow’s ear really turns into a silk purse.

He’s at Leonard, 6 Upper Grosvenor Street, W1 (even if you had to frog march him there), being tactfully handled by Peter. Wash, cut and blow-dry costs £3.75, beard 5-p. extra – not much when you consider it’s made a mean-moody-magnificent out of that surly yobo of yours.”

Doesn't he look lovely?

“Doesn’t he look lovely?

Sitting in the Hard Rock Cafe in his grey wool barathea Stirling Cooper suit, £28.00 with a waistcoat, and his tiny-man-patterned shirt, £4.90. Both from Way-In, Hans Crescent, SW1. You’re in your Missoni four-piece (orangey battledress top, matching trousers, orange silky blouse and toning striped tank top). £75 from Browns. Thinking what a perfect couple you make. Except that now he’s thinking: ‘Blimey mate, you could do a lot better than her if you tried.'”

Stamp of Chic

cherry twiss, janet reger, missoni, mr freedom, norman eales, ossie clark, seventies fashion, sonia rykiel, telegraph magazine
Stamp of Chic
Daily Telegraph Magazine, May 5th 1972

You no longer need time on your hands and London on your doorstep to keep slightly ahead of fashion. Now many of the brighter boutiques sell their clothes by post, and it is as easy to dress well in the Hebrides as in Kensington. For example, Ossie Clark’s screen-printed silk skirt and flowing smock (above) can be ordered separately from Just Looking, 88 King’s Road, London SW3 and 5-7 Brompton Road, SW3. The smock costs £34.10, the skirt £56.65 (plus 25p post and packing).

Fashion Editor: Cherry Twiss. Photographer: Norman Eales.

Browns, 27 South Molton Street, London W1, will send the red and white Indian cotton slip dress (left) for £25, plus 55p post and packing.

The Sonia Rykiel collection at Browns includes the maribou jacket, £28, sweater, £16, and waistcoat, £15. The pleated skirt, £21, is also from Browns.

The yellow trouser suit of Missoni's knits (right) costs £65 from Browns. Shoes by Pierre Cardin, £17.50, from Charles Jourdan.

French knickers, £3.70, and bra, £3.70, in pink silk are by Janet Reger. By post only from Bottom Drawer, 4 bouverie Place, London W2.

Mr Freedom, 20 Kensington Church Street, London W8, post this gaberdine trouser suit designed by Kim Lew. The price is £28, plus 25p post and packing. Walter Albini halter neck top, £18 from Browns.