New Suede Shoes

1970s, alkasura, british boutique movement, hans feurer, Inspirational Images, king's road, let it rock, Malcolm McLaren, manolo blahnik, pat cleveland, Screaming Lord Sutch, stirling cooper, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, vivienne westwood, zapata
Satin dresses, £8 from Let It Rock, 430 King’s Road, London SW3. Suede shoes with crepe heels, £17.75 (with green dress) and £17.50 (with black dress), both by Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, London SW3. Screaming Lord Sutch dresses by Let It Rock: 12in.-bottomed jean drains, £2.50; Lurex shirt, £3.95; waistcoat, £3.95. Full skirt and off-the-shoulder blouse (right), £8 and £5 from Alkasura, King’s Road, London SW3. Fifties stilettos and wide belt, £2 and £2.40; silver heart locket, £4.10.

If fashion revivals keep accelerating at the current rate, last year’s hot-pants are going to be a cult by the end of the decade. Who would have dreamed that a Fifties teenager’s wardrobe would be back in fashion by his late twenties? In 1958 Teddy Boys were practically extinct now crowds of Teds and Rockers cram the Fishmongers Arms at Wood Green to hear rock groups like Screaming Lord Sutch and the Houseshakers (above). There are now an estimated 20,000 revivalist Teddy Boys in England, and the drainpipe-trouser trade is booming. These pictures show some of the clothes that you’ve only just managed to forget.

A new and influential shop in the King’s Road is run by an original Ted called Malcolm McLaren. Walking into Let It Rock is like walking into a flashback from the Fifties. James Dean and Elvis posters line the walls; period showcases are filled with hair-cream, plastic combs and sweetheart lockets; the juke-box belts out some of the best rock ever recorded, and the clothes on sale would be a credit to Gene Vincent, Presley, Eddie Cochran or anyone else who made the recordings. Boxes of 45s and old fan magazines litter the floor next to genuine valve radios with a three-month guarantee.

Designers like Stirling Cooper and Mr Freedom have been manufacturing Fifties-inspired clothes for some time, but Let It Rock is the only shop selling the real thing. This particular revival is so premature that there is still a large amount of the original stock around; dirndl skirts, stiletto-heeled winkle-pickers, cotton sweaters and plastic jewellery, not to mention 12in. drainpipe trousers and jeans, bootlace ties, luminous socks and blue suede shoes. This is the only place where Teds can buy off-the-peg ‘drapes’ — their mid-thigh Edwardian velvet-trimmed jackets. The phenomenon of Let It Rock is that it is situated in the heart of Chelsea, which Teds regard as ‘enemy territory’; now they’re selling to the newly converted ‘natives’.

The clothes in Let It Rock are inspired by two groups, the Teddy Boys (and girls) and Rockers (and birds). According to McLaren, Teds like the updated rock styles, whereas the Rockers, especially the girls, prefer ‘strong’ ideas like the characteristic shaggy mohair sweater-dresses and winklepicker boots. ‘Chelsea people’ go more for the authentic stuff . . . if you endorse a revival, you might as well get the real thing Fashion can thank the Fifties for some of the most unglamorous and unflattering clothes we ever knew. That is what makes their unmodified rebirth so difficult to understand.

I’m not sure I can say much more about Vivienne Westwood’s body of work which hasn’t already been said. I always think the best quality in a designer is idiosyncrasy, and Westwood had that by the truckload. Her work didn’t stagnate, but it often referenced her own past and continued to translate the wider cultural past into her own language – and yet never tried to be anybody else. Given my magazine collection covers mainly the Sixties and Seventies, I thought it best to celebrate her by doing what I do best, which is trying to go back and show you the starting point for the things we just take for granted decades later. The origins of what she’s best known for are ultimately in the Teddy Boy revival of the early Seventies and her work for ‘Let It Rock’ with Malcolm McLaren, and this captures that early spark – despite the fact that they don’t mention her at all.

I’ve also been meaning to scan this for a while so, now seemed like a good time. I mean, Pat Cleveland and Screaming Lord Sutch photographed by Hans Feurer? What more could you ask for?

Report by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Hans Feurer.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, May 14th 1972.

Top left : short fringed dress, £7, from Let It Rock. Bottom left: short mohair dress, £12. Black winklepicker boots, £12. Centre top: V-necked cotton sweater in Fifties fabric, £2; genuine pearlised belt, £2.50; all from Let It Rock. Above: black jean drains, £2.50, and luminous socks, 30p; both from Let It Rock. Off-the-shoulder sweater, £3.95, Stirling Cooper Shop, Peter Robinson, Oxford Street, Vl. Tartan shoes, £16.50, Zapata, 49 Old Clurch Street, SW3. Right: crepe skirt, £6, Let. It Rock. Scarf, 35p, at Woolworth’s

Be Bop a Lula

1970s, Adrian Mann, antony price, City Lights, fifties fashion, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, John Dove and Molly White, Karl Stoecker, let it rock, Malcolm McLaren, Mickey Finn, t-rex, terry de havilland, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, vivienne westwood, Wonder Workshop
LEFT: Striped cotton jersey zip-tit T-shirt £3, lacy skin-tight Jeans £10, and fluorescent socks 35p, all from Let it Rock, 430 King’s Road, SW10 (mail order 50p). Leather belt, Lily £6.99; sparkling shoes, Terry de Havilland £15 approx; charm bracelet, Peter Robinson, t1.75; earrings 75p, and matching bracelet 65p, both from City Lights. RIGHT: Splash-dyed voile lace-trimmed zip-tit sleeveless top £6, and black cotton drainpipes with leopard-printed pockets £9, both from Let it Rock, 430 King’s Road, SW10 (mail order 50p). Stardust shoes, Terry de Havilland £15 approx; pink pearls, Peter Robinson Sep; wide Indian bangles sleek 10p each.

DRAINPIPE TROUSERS, PATENT STILETTOS, LUMINOUS SOCKS COME ROCKING BACK

Wonderful to see the combination of Let It Rock, Wonder Workshop and Terry de Havilland in one shoot by Roxy Music cover photographer Karl Stoecker. I’m not the biggest fan of the original Fifties look, if I’m honest, but there’s just something magical about the way this revival scene bridges the Seventies from Glam Rock to Punk and New Wave.

If anyone can identify the male models (or indeed the female ones) let me know. I think Mickey Finn might be one of them (third image, hanging out of the right hand car door), and possibly Antony Price. Which would make sense with Stoecker as photographer.

Photographed by Karl Stoecker.

Scanned from Honey, January 1974.

OPPOSITE LEFT: Pleated nylon zip-front top 0.50, fringed mini £3.50, both from Let it Rock, 430 King’s Road, SW10 (mail order 50p). Shiny snake belt £1.75, and earrings 75p, both from City Lights; tights, Mary Quant 40p; pony-tail holders, Peter Robinson 6p. RIGHT: Leather studded and fringed top with padded Elvis front, Wonder Workshop £15 approx, from Wonder Workshop, 192-198 Villiers Road, Dollis Hill, NW2; Granny Takes a Trip, 488 King’s Road, SW10. Stretch jersey drainpipes £16 approx, and plastic triangular earrings 75p, both from City Lights, 54 Shorts Gardens, WC2 (mail order 30p). Snakeskin-printed belt, Mr Freedom 42.95; chiffon scarf, Fenwicks 1240. Man’s long-sleeved studded and screen-printed T-shirt, Wonder Workshop £6 approx.
LEFT: Leopard-print cotton jersey top, Wonder Workshop £6, from Wonder Workshop, 193-198 Villiers Road, Doll’s Hill, NW2; Granny Takes a Trip, 488 King’s Road, SW10. Fan-pleated skirt £9.50, and plastic earrings 75p, both from City Lights, 54 Shorts Gardens, WC2 (mail order 30p). Gold belt, Lily £6.99; silver and black shoes, Terry de Havilland £15 approx; scarf, Fenwicks £2.40. CENTRE: Pure wool ‘Elvis’ Sloppy Joe, Wonder Workshop £20 approx (for stockists see above). Chequered jersey pencil skirt £4.50, from Van der Fransen, 98 Waterford Road, SW6. Plastic ) bag, City Lights £4.50, bangle, Adrien Mann 30p. RIGHT: Stripey shirt from a selection at Chelsea Antique Market. Stretchy drainpipes £16.50, and earrings 75p approx, from City Lights (for stockists see above). Elastic belt £1.40, and socks 35p, from Let it Rock. Man’s shiny gold zip-up jacket, City Lights £14.50 (for stockists see above). Striped cotton shirt £4, from Let it Rock, 430 King’s Road, SW10 (mail order 50p). Hair by Trevor at Ricci Burns
ABOVE: Black stretchy ribbed jersey tube dress with emerald green maribou trim and shoe-string straps £10, from Let it Rock, 430 King’s Road, SW10 (mail order 50p). Perspex necklace £6.50, and spotted earrings 75p approx, from City Lights; thin Indian bangles, Peter Robinson 5p each. Man’s blue fleck suit with drainpipe trousers and velvet-collared jacket £38, and short-sleeved striped cotton shirt £4, both by Let it Rock.
ABOVE LEFT: Plunging orange and black striped knitted top f4, from Van der Fransen, 98 Waterford Road, SW6. Block gabardine skirt with fan-pleated hem E8.50, from Spectrum, 70 Gloucester Road, SW7. Black tights, Mary Quant 40p; black stardust peep-toe shoes, Terry de Havilland £15 approx; long black beads, £1 from a selection by Adrien Mann; pink plastic and gilt earrings, City Lights 75p approx; bangles, Baggage & Gene Sp each. RIGHT: Zebra-striped corduroy skirt with deep patch pockets £10, and black patent stilettos £8.50, both from Let it Rock, 430 King’s Road, SW10 (mail order SOp). Fine-ribbed cream polo neck, Janine at Harold Ingram {1.50, from Jane Norman, Oxford Street, WI; Penningtons, Marlow. Gold belt £2, scarlet and gilt necklace £1, earrings 75p, and bracelet 65p, all from City Lights.

Day Trippers

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, Bilbo, Chelsea Antiques Market, gordon king, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Malcolm McLaren, miss mouse, quorum, rae spencer cullen, Sex, sheridan barnett, stirling cooper, strawberry studio, terry de havilland, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vivienne Lynn, vivienne westwood

day trippers - peccinotti - 1

White dress with music and rose print by Miss Mouse. Snakeskin shoes from Bilbo. Red and white spotted dress with white trimming by Miss Mouse.

Photographed in Singapore by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1975.

day trippers - peccinotti - 2

Black and green floral print halterneck dress from Biba. Black and gold shoes by Sex. Green floral halterneck dress by Biba. Black and gold brocade shoes by Biba.

day trippers - peccinotti - 3

Shocking pink pintucked cotton dress by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Black snakeskin shoes by Bilbo. Red cotton sack dress with hip pockets by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Red suede and snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland.

day trippers - peccinotti - 4

Dusty pink sun dress with black piping by Strawberry Studio. Grey suede shoes by Terry de Havilland.

day trippers - peccinotti - 5

Blue cotton dress with Dorchester motif. Coffee dress with Savoy motif, both by Jeff Banks.

day trippers - peccinotti - 6

White cotton culotte dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose, Chelsea Antique Market. White cotton sun dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose.

day trippers - peccinotti - 7

Navy cotton sundress with cross over straps by Gordon King.

Haven’t got a thing to wear…

1970s, Abecita, biba, chelsea cobbler, cosmopolitan, Fenwick, Gossard, hand tinting, Inspirational Images, james wedge, janet reger, let it rock, Liz Smith, Malcolm McLaren, manolo blahnik, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials, vivienne westwood, zapata

havent-got-a-thing-to-wear-cosmo-january-1975-james-wedge-1

The leopard cannot change his spots, And that’s the fix I’m in, So come an sit by me, my love, For some highly original skin. <<<<<<>>>>>> Fake-fur bikini and bangles from Biba. Boots by The Chelsea Cobbler.

Don’t give up – this could be the year when what goes on underneath could be your major investment.

Another extraordinary example of James Wedge’s wonderful work in the art of hand-tinting and further adventures in the world of Seventies-does-Fifties-pin up. Notable for including shoes and a petticoat from ‘Let It Rock’ which was Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood’s first shop in the Kings Road. The influence of rock and roll on and crossover between both glam rock and punk is perfectly encapsulated in this editorial, right slap bang in the middle of the Seventies.

Fashion by Liz Smith. Photographs by James Wedge.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, January 1975.

havent-got-a-thing-to-wear-cosmo-january-1975-james-wedge-2

When I’m awakened from my slumber It does seem rather mean – It’s always the wrong number and never Steve McQueen. <<<<<<>>>>>> Satin bra and panties from Biba.

havent-got-a-thing-to-wear-cosmo-january-1975-james-wedge-3

Watch out for life’s banana skins, And wear your prettiest slip, So you can say to passing men “I did enjoy my trip”. <<<<<<>>>>>> Bra by Gossard. Petticoat and stilettos from Let It Rock.

havent-got-a-thing-to-wear-cosmo-january-1975-james-wedge-4

When I went in for Crufts with my doggy, I didn’t know how it would go, But it proves the importance of grooming – We’ve been voted the best in the show! <<<<<<>>>>>> Corselette by Janet Reger. Scarf from Femina Furs. Gloves and hat by Biba.

havent-got-a-thing-to-wear-cosmo-january-1975-james-wedge-5

A girl can’t have too many furs, They give her an inner glow. But when it omes to trapping them How fur should a nice girl go? <<<<<<>>>>>> Bra, panties and suspender belt from Fenwick. Cape by Femina Furs. Mules from The Chelsea Cobbler.

havent-got-a-thing-to-wear-cosmo-january-1975-james-wedge-6

If you watch the girls men watch, You’ll see, The girls they watch watch their weight like me. // Look me over closely, Tell me what you see. But if you kiss and tell, you rat, I’ll swear it wasn’t me. <<<<<<>>>>>> Essences camisole. Shoes by Terry de Havilland. Nightgown by Finewear. Shoes by Zapata.

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A birthday gift for me, my dear? Come in and close the door. I do like them sending my presents, With a man from Securicor. <<<<<<>>>>>> Nightie and pantie set from Dorothy Perkins.

havent-got-a-thing-to-wear-cosmo-january-1975-james-wedge-8

Men used to say I was forward, But I’ll tell you this, for a fact: Since I chose to look pure, and a little demure, I simply haven’t looked back. <<<<<<>>>>>> Abecita body stocking. Negligee by Martin Emprex. Glove and bag from Biba. Shoes by Let It Rock.