The Shortest Summer

1970s, Copper Coin, Crochetta, Elliott, harold ingram, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, mary quant, Maudie Moon, mr freedom, ravel, Richard Selby, Russell & Bromley, Sharcleod, simon massey, stirling cooper, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials

After the explosion of hot pants and vulgar satin knickers, shorts are still with us, but they’ve emerged neater and brighter – put together with layered vests and skimpy sweaters, legs that go on forever and bright vampy shoes or clogs. It’s the only way to be cool this summer.

Photographed by Richard Selby.

Scanned from Honey, June 1971

Far left: T-shirt by Maudie Moon. Clingy crepe shorts by Simon Massey. Thigh high socks by Mr Freedom. Left: Banlon bomber jacket and plain fluted shorts by Jeff Banks. Tights by Quant. Right: Banlon vest, shorts and shirt all by John Marks. Tights by Quant. Shoes by Ravel. Far right: Banlon vest with plain black shorts by John Marks. Banlon shirt by Jeff Banks. Tights by Quant. Shoes by Elliotts.
Far left: Striped cotton knit sweater and plain shorts by Zeekit by Crochetta. Stripy socks by Echo. Lavender suede shoes by Dolcis. Left: Halter neck knit sweater and shorts by Zeekit by Crochetta. Socks by Quant. Clogs by Russell & Bromley. Right: Stripy ribbed vest by Shar-Cleod. Scarlet jersey shorts by Stirling Cooper. Socks by Sunarama. Snakeskin wedge shoes by Terry de Havilland. Far right: Skinny sweater and matching mini vest by Syndica. Linen shorts by Friends. Socks by Quant. Red clogs by Wardle and Williams.
Left to right: Striped skinny rib sweater by Janine at Harold Ingram. Yellow shorts by Copper Coin. Vest and red pepper shorts with green patch pockets both by Peter London. Rainbow acrylic vest by Peter London. Yellow jersey shorts by Stirling Cooper. Woollen football vest by Van der Fransen. Cherry red shirt by Littlewoods. Red Orlon shorts by Syndica.

Day Trippers

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, Bilbo, Chelsea Antiques Market, gordon king, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Malcolm McLaren, miss mouse, quorum, rae spencer cullen, Sex, sheridan barnett, stirling cooper, strawberry studio, terry de havilland, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vivienne Lynn, vivienne westwood

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White dress with music and rose print by Miss Mouse. Snakeskin shoes from Bilbo. Red and white spotted dress with white trimming by Miss Mouse.

Photographed in Singapore by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1975.

day trippers - peccinotti - 2

Black and green floral print halterneck dress from Biba. Black and gold shoes by Sex. Green floral halterneck dress by Biba. Black and gold brocade shoes by Biba.

day trippers - peccinotti - 3

Shocking pink pintucked cotton dress by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Black snakeskin shoes by Bilbo. Red cotton sack dress with hip pockets by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Red suede and snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland.

day trippers - peccinotti - 4

Dusty pink sun dress with black piping by Strawberry Studio. Grey suede shoes by Terry de Havilland.

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Blue cotton dress with Dorchester motif. Coffee dress with Savoy motif, both by Jeff Banks.

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White cotton culotte dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose, Chelsea Antique Market. White cotton sun dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose.

day trippers - peccinotti - 7

Navy cotton sundress with cross over straps by Gordon King.

Happily Ever After

1970s, alistair cowin, Buckle Under, charles jourdan, Elliott, erica budd, Foale and Tuffin, gladrags, Guy Humphries, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, kurt geiger, mary quant, Michael Foreman, mr freedom, pablo and delia, Sacha, shape, stirling cooper, terry de havilland, thea porter, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials, zandra rhodes

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White lawn dress printed with butterflies and flowers by Thea Porter. Straw hat by Buckle Under. Red wedge shoes by Kurt Geiger. Belt by Shape.

There’s a good reason why Vanity Fair is possibly my favourite magazine of this period. They were relatively conventional in the 1960s, and would ‘merge’ with Honey magazine around 1972, but in their death knells they were just about the most innovative magazine in the UK. Issues were often themed around ‘issues’, for example this one is entirely themed around break-ups and divorces (including a story on what a divorced man should wear when taking his kid out for the day).

Nor did they shy away from more expensive designer names, such as Thea Porter and Zandra Rhodes here, mixing them happily with the more affordable but still iconic boutique names like Stirling Cooper and Mr Freedom. Adding Foale and Tuffin, Pablo and Delia and Terry de Havilland into the mix for good measure, and all those stunning illustrations by Michael Foreman… this is one of my favourite editorials of all time.

Vanity Fair is also, frankly, a nightmare to scan because it falls apart at the binding with the lightest touch, which is why I don’t scan them as often. So enjoy the heaven of Harri Peccinotti’s work while I gently shuffle all the pages back into the magazine…

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Illustrations by Michael Foreman.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, April 1971.

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Long grey crepe dress patterned with purple, green and red birds by Shape. Pablo and Delia suede thong necklace. Blue suede shoes at Sacha.

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Beige suede skirt with applique shapes and matching shawl by Mary Quant. Necklace from Buckle Under. Beige suede boots by Guy Humphries.

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Blue and white feather printed chiffon dress by Zandra Rhodes.

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Left to right: Chiffon blouse and multi-coloured skirt by Foale and Tuffin. Painted rainbow shoes from Mr Freedom. Painted belt by Shape. // Cream and red jersey catsuit (top only showing) and banded red and cream skirt both from Stirling Cooper. Red shoes by Kurt Geiger. // Cream, yellow and red jersey dress by Stirling Cooper. Pull on hat by Janice Peskett. // Red cotton t-shirt by Erica Budd. Cream dungarees from Stirling Cooper. Red python sandals at Elliotts.

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Above: Mauve satin cotton pinafore dress and blouse by Gladrags. Right: Bottom half of Alistair Cowin calico trousers with green printing. Green and yellow shoes by Terry de Havilland. Far right: Black velvet dungarees with white satin applique heart from Mr Freedom. Chiffon blouse from Foale and Tuffin. Mauve canvas boots at Charles Jourdan.

Get carried away in Wranglers

19 magazine, 1970s, terry de havilland, Uncategorized, Vintage Adverts, wrangler

get-carried-away-in-wranglers

And for perfect upkeep, Wreal Wrangler belts.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, October 1972

Haven’t got a thing to wear…

1970s, Abecita, biba, chelsea cobbler, cosmopolitan, Fenwick, Gossard, hand tinting, Inspirational Images, james wedge, janet reger, let it rock, Liz Smith, Malcolm McLaren, manolo blahnik, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials, vivienne westwood, zapata

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The leopard cannot change his spots, And that’s the fix I’m in, So come an sit by me, my love, For some highly original skin. <<<<<<>>>>>> Fake-fur bikini and bangles from Biba. Boots by The Chelsea Cobbler.

Don’t give up – this could be the year when what goes on underneath could be your major investment.

Another extraordinary example of James Wedge’s wonderful work in the art of hand-tinting and further adventures in the world of Seventies-does-Fifties-pin up. Notable for including shoes and a petticoat from ‘Let It Rock’ which was Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood’s first shop in the Kings Road. The influence of rock and roll on and crossover between both glam rock and punk is perfectly encapsulated in this editorial, right slap bang in the middle of the Seventies.

Fashion by Liz Smith. Photographs by James Wedge.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, January 1975.

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When I’m awakened from my slumber It does seem rather mean – It’s always the wrong number and never Steve McQueen. <<<<<<>>>>>> Satin bra and panties from Biba.

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Watch out for life’s banana skins, And wear your prettiest slip, So you can say to passing men “I did enjoy my trip”. <<<<<<>>>>>> Bra by Gossard. Petticoat and stilettos from Let It Rock.

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When I went in for Crufts with my doggy, I didn’t know how it would go, But it proves the importance of grooming – We’ve been voted the best in the show! <<<<<<>>>>>> Corselette by Janet Reger. Scarf from Femina Furs. Gloves and hat by Biba.

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A girl can’t have too many furs, They give her an inner glow. But when it omes to trapping them How fur should a nice girl go? <<<<<<>>>>>> Bra, panties and suspender belt from Fenwick. Cape by Femina Furs. Mules from The Chelsea Cobbler.

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If you watch the girls men watch, You’ll see, The girls they watch watch their weight like me. // Look me over closely, Tell me what you see. But if you kiss and tell, you rat, I’ll swear it wasn’t me. <<<<<<>>>>>> Essences camisole. Shoes by Terry de Havilland. Nightgown by Finewear. Shoes by Zapata.

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A birthday gift for me, my dear? Come in and close the door. I do like them sending my presents, With a man from Securicor. <<<<<<>>>>>> Nightie and pantie set from Dorothy Perkins.

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Men used to say I was forward, But I’ll tell you this, for a fact: Since I chose to look pure, and a little demure, I simply haven’t looked back. <<<<<<>>>>>> Abecita body stocking. Negligee by Martin Emprex. Glove and bag from Biba. Shoes by Let It Rock.

Inspirational Images: Chiffons and snakeskins

1970s, Bibette, british boutique movement, Chelsea Antiques Market, david bailey, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, kensington market, moyra swan, rowley and oram, terry de havilland, thea porter, Vogue, zandra rhodes

Printed silk chiffon looped into a skirt, gathered from a tiny blue satin bodice, with blue satin ribbon at hem. By Zandra Rhodes, £89, at Fortnum & Mason. Tiered metallic platform shoes, 9gns, at Rowley & Oram of Kensintyon Market. Beaded choker, by Bibette, from range at Thea Porter. Rings from Hope and Eleanor, Chelsea Antique Market.

Printed silk chiffon looped into a skirt, gathered from a tiny blue satin bodice, with blue satin ribbon at hem. By Zandra Rhodes, £89, at Fortnum & Mason. Tiered metallic platform shoes, 9gns, at Rowley & Oram of Kensintyon Market. Beaded choker, by Bibette, from range at Thea Porter. Rings from Hope and Eleanor, Chelsea Antique Market.

Another early appearance from Terry de Havilland, whose shoes were sold out of Rowley & Oram in Kensington Market and often not credited. I would [possibly] kill for those shoes. And the dress isn’t half bad either…

Photographed by Bailey

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, June 1970

Inspirational Images: Hollywood Revamped

1970s, british boutique movement, christopher mcdonnell, cosmopolitan, George Malyard, Inspirational Images, kari ann muller, marrian mcdonnell, platforms, richard imrie, terry de havilland

Terry de Havilland Christopher McDonnell Cosmopolitan May 1972 Richard Imrie

Christopher McDonnell must dream in black and white, and all his dreams must star Ginger Rogers and Rita Hayworth. Because, when it comes to designing clothes, this twenty-eight year old ex-Royal College of Art designer is the very spirit of Hollywood: his clothes have backless bodices, necklines to the navel and skirts that grip the bottom and then flare in Busby Berkley pleats. His model girls, smiling jammily through their bright lips, false eyelashes and heaving curls, snap along on platform soles. One of today’s top stars, Anouk Aimée, is his favourite customer. Here, model Kari-Ann wears black taffeta top and pleated dotted culottes by Christopher McDonnell, £35. Hat by George Malyard. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, exclusive to Marrian McDonnell.

Photographed by Richard Imrie.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, May 1972.

New for Autumn/Winter

1930s, 1960s, 1970s, british boutique movement, bus stop, chelsea girl, forbidden fruit, jean varon, john bates, lee bender, louis caring, Miss Impact, psychedelia, roland klein, terry de havilland, wallis, website listings, young edwardian

Chelsea Girl

Chelsea Girl

Tsk tsk. Slap my wrist. I’m pretty slack about putting website listings here on the blog, and I can only apologise. Here are some edited highlights (but there are plenty more already listed and more to come before Christmas!). Personal favourites are the original 1970s Chelsea Girl platform shoes, the black lace 1930s evening dress and Erte-printed John Bates for Jean Varon dress…

Unsigned original 1930s

Unsigned original 1930s

John Bates for Jean Varon

John Bates for Jean Varon

Roland Klein for Marcel Fenez

Roland Klein for Marcel Fenez

Forbidden Fruit

Forbidden Fruit

Unsigned original 1960s

Unsigned original 1960s

Terry de Havilland

Terry de Havilland

Young Innocent

Young Innocent

Lee Bender for Bus Stop

Lee Bender for Bus Stop

Wallis Fashion Shops

Wallis Fashion Shops

Miss Impact

Miss Impact

Louis Caring

Louis Caring

Unsigned original 1970s

Unsigned original 1970s

Shoe Porn: Terry de Havilland boots, 1972

1970s, boots, Dianyk, Inspirational Images, Marc Leonard, platforms, shoes, terry de havilland, vanity fair

terry de havilland boots

Boots by Terry de Havilland, £17.50 and £22.50 at Derber, 79 Wardour Street, W1

Talk about a holy grail…

Photographed by Marc Leonard. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1972

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Two shoes by Dianyk, both £8.50 at Derber, 79 Wardour Street, W1

Mild Sauce: Wrap up well

1970s, celia birtwell, Inspirational Images, Meriel McCooey, mild sauce, quorum, Shirley Beljon, sunday times magazine, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials

“Every designer has long scarves this season – decorating waists, flung over shoulders, slotted through necklines. Celia Birtwell, whose famous screen prints for Quorum enlivened some of their prettiest garments, has produced a new and imaginative collection of exotic zebra and tiger-printed chiffon fantasies which hide a multitude of flesh – even on our bonny pneumatic model. (In real life, Marinka works as a London barmaid.) The scarves come in three sizes, 44in. sq., 22in. sq., and 14in. sq., and cost £10, £6.50 and £4.50 respectively; they are obtainable from Quorum, Radnor Walk, Chelsea, London SW3, and also from their branch at Heath Street, Hampstead, London NW3.”

By Meriel McCooey. Photographed by Shirley Beljon. Mules by Terry de Havilland.

The Sunday Times Magazine. March 20th 1977.