DESIGNED BY YUKI . . . and typical of the elegant raciness that Yuki breathes into everything he creates, a sultry bloomer dress to wear if you dare and if you’ve got the shape. Make it from a 1.5 metre square of cotton jersey. Simply cut two holes for your legs in the centre, step inside and tie the corners on your shoulders. Fake lily, Novelty Imports. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
. . . with the aid of Yuki, Sheilagh Brown, Wendy Dagworthy, Sheridan Barnett, Bill Gibb, Jane Cattlin, Zandra Rhodes and Peter Golding, eight top designers who were each persuaded to whip up a creation for when you still haven’t got a thing to wear.
Hair by Harambee, 19 Avery Row, London W1.
Make-up by Yvonne Gold.
Persian carpets from Liberty.
I think one of the models is Clio Goldsmith.
Photographed by Terence Donovan.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1978.
DESIGNED BY SHEILAGH BROWN … who goes the whole way with glamour, whipping silk and lace and ribbons into deliciously pretty confections. Here she transforms a 2.25 metre length of soft lace into beautiful balloon trousers gathered twice on ribbon drawstrings. A square of silk crepe de Chine, slashed in the middle for a sliding neckline, ties at the front with wide black satin ribbon. Silver sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY WENDY DAGWORTHY … the designer who makes sporty Viyella and rough tweeds look soft. Sunray-pleated cotton—hunt for the ready-pleated kind—is cut to make a piecrust collar that’s prettily tied with trailing velvet ribbon, on a poncho top belted like a tunic over a matching skirt. The skirt is one width of fabric gathered on a cord at the waist. Fringe the edges of toning check fabric to make the shawl. Boots, £44.99, Russell & Bromley.
DESIGNED BY SHERIDAN BARNETT who knows how to put together the luxury of velvet and lace in the new romantic style. Sheridan Barnett’s big cosy chasuble is made by folding in half a 2.5 metre length of velvet and cutting a straight line in the centre for the neckline. Tuck under the sides and wrap. closed at the waist with glossy black moire. Knot a fichu of black lace at your throat. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Patent ballet pumps, £11.50, Gamba.
DESIGNED BY BILL GIBB . . . who creates like no other designer. Here’s a little numero (main picture) from Bill’s sketch-pad that’s four straight pieces of jersey and need be only as expensive as the fabric you choose. Cut four 120 X 90cm oblongs of fabric—Bill picked soft ice-cream shades in Qiana jersey. Overlock the edges and run a ribbon drawstring through one short end of each piece. Two oblongs gathered up and tied on each shoulder make the back and front of the dress. The remaining two pieces, gathered in tightly to wrists and draped over your shoulders, make a floaty jacket that can be knotted back and front. Soft gold leather straps are Bill Gibb’s newest accessory. Gold sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY JANE CATTLIN Sew one short seam in an oval of silky jersey and you’ll have added a glamorous Jane Cattlin creation to your wardrobe. Jane makes it sound as simple as that, though the result looks like the ritziest evening gown in town. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY ZANDRA RHODES .. and called Conceptual Chic by Zandra. For her New Wave look, drop a sliver of shocking pink jersey on top of a plain black T-shirt dress. First cut several jagged slashes in a 105 x 114cm oblong jersey, making two of the cuts big enough for armholes. Overlock the edges and decorate with spangles and safety pins, preferably jewelled. Tie bright satin rouleaux around your neck. Stitch pearl or diamante beads on to plain safety pins or buy one of Zandra’s rolls of pins ready-jewelled from her shop at 14a Grafton Street, London W1. At £10, they’re the punk status symbol! Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY PETER GOLDING … whose rhinestone-studded jeans, spangled T-shirts and satin waistcoats glint and gleam in his shop, Ace. If you’re star-struck but can’t afford the glittering trappings or spare the time to stitch sequins on your jeans here’s Peter Golding’s tip. Hang your Christms-tree decorations on to ponchos of sheer black lace, add a few stick-on silvery stars and moons, fasten your Lurex sotckings with silver suspenders, shake your feathers and enjoy yourself! The mirrored belt is made by pasting handbag-size mirrors on to any plain belt. Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Lurex stockings, Mary Quant, £1.60.
Gold fabric, wrapped round head, from Cornucopia, from £4.50. Striped blouse, £25. Striped skirt, £14. Pants, with large spots and stars, £20. All by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. All costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft, from £1. Sequins on head from any haberdashery department.
With the aid of a ballet dancer and delicately hand-coloured pictures, we stepped into the magical world of Russian ballet. recapturing the ethereal beauty and charm of ballet at its greatest … a world so unreal and yet so pleasing to recreate for a special occasion.
Make-up by Kirsty Klimo.
Photographed by James Wedge.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1975.
Scarves round head. from Cornucopia. from £1.50. Satin pyjamas. with marabou trim. by Charles Grahame. £35. Pink embroidered waistcoat, £9. Painted net petticoat. £5. Both from Nostalgia. Satin ballet pumps. by Anello And Davide. £2.70. Heavy beaded belt, from The Warehouse. £22.50. All costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft from £1. Plume and ribbons used to tie bottoms of pants from any haberdashery department.
Large piece of gold fabric round head, from Cornucopia. from £4.50. Red chiffon layered dress, with red petticoat (sequin-tied to form harem pants), by Sheridan Barnett, £100. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. Long, multi-coloured chiffon stole, from Cornucopia. from £20. Ribbon round head and ropes of sequins tied round dress bottom from any haberdashery department. Beads round wrist, from Adrien Mann from £1.
Sequin cap, from Cornucopia. from £8. Green top, £9.95. Harem pants. £12.95. Both by Strawberry Studio. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. Striped chiffon scarf. from £2.50. Multi-coloured tasselled silk scarf. from £8. Both from Cornucopia. Gold lacy scarf, tied round arm, from Nostalgia. from £4. Costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft. from £1.
Left: White cotton edged with red, lots of frills tied up with bandanna bows. By Rosie Bradford, about £15, at Quorum; Che Guevara. Fine white straw, £10, Herbert Johnson. White ribbed gloves, Kir, 75p. Red and white striped canvas shoes laced onto a high wooden platform, £12.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Right: Three deep cotton frills and a halter bodice edged and tied in red. By Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey, £9.95. Small white straw, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Peppermint earrings and clips by Adrien Mann, about £1, at Marshall & Snelgrove. White block and string shoes, £7.75, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Helanca gloves, Kir, 75p. Hat pins, from a selection at The Purple Shop.
more of it, less of it, what there is of it, frilled.
Preview of new white shapes you’ll be seeing when the sun’s hot: all cut out, cropped or split, beginning with flamenco frills piped in with red.
Well, it may not be May any more but this editorial feels perfect for the current weather. And those Manolo Blahnik for Zapata shoes? Pass the smelling salts…
Hair by John at Leonard.
Photographed at the Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens
Photographed by Peter Knapp.
Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.
Left: Small cotton broderie anglaise blouse under the shelter of a big frilled collar, with a thin gabardine skirt split front and back. Blouse, Stirling Cooper, £4.25, at Peter Robinson. Skirt, Screaming Mimi, £6.50, exclusively for Granny Takes a Trip. White Openwork Helanca gloves, Kir, 80p, at Dickins & Jones. White shoes, £7, Bilbo. Hat, £10, Herbert Johnson. Right: Buttoned padded halter bodice, edged and buttoned in scarlet. White pleated Colonial cotton shorts, buckled each side. Bodice by Rosie Bradford, about £7, at Quorum ; Che Guevara. Shorts, £5.95, Bus Stop. White patent shoes, £16.50, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. White straw, £11.50, Herbert Johnson. Hat pins from range, The Purple Shop.
Wide wide cotton trousers gathered on elastic, a gathered cotton halter top, the edge let go to frill. By Pablo & Delia, £18, at Browns. White peep-toe shoes, £7, detachable bow £1 extra, at Bilbo. Hat, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Earrings, Adrien Mann. Laced cuffed Helanca gloves by Kir, 75p, at Derry & Toms
Rust-coloured felt hat with rose trimming from a selection at Van Der Fransen. French Dresden blue shirt with pink and lilac floral print, by Jeff Banks, £6.50. Grey boucle cardigan with short puff sleeves and front fastening, by Crochetta, £6.50. Pale blue circular barathea skirt, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £12. Scarf by Herbert Johnson, £3-15. Green straw hat with rose trimming, from Universal Witness, £5. Blue sweater with long sleeves and round neck, £2.45. Matching short-sleeved cardigan with wrap-over front, £3.45. Both by Erica Budd. Grey crepe Oxford bags with pleated front, by Tuttabankem, £17-50.
Ten years ago, the British woman was bound to her cardigan. Then, in a feverish review of fashion, the cardigan was shelved for the jacket. Now, it’s back in circulation, not as the rather insipid number of yesteryear, but renewed in a long wrap-around version — the sort you cuddle into when it’s cold outside, the sort you wear over dresses, jeans or even suits. Cardigans like this are the most practical knitwear created for ages and the Paris Collections, if they spell excitement to you, were full of them.
All jewellery in feature from a selection at Marie Middleton and Susan Marsh at Chelsea Antique Market. Gold-rimmed glasses from any good optician.
Modelled by Vivienne Lynn and unknown model.
Styling by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by Ku Khanh.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1973.
Dark green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale green fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Cream bouclé short-sleeved cardigan with very thin stripes, by Crochetta, £8. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale yellow fine cotton shirt with floral printed pattern, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Yellow cardigan with two pockets on hips, by Twomax, £4.50.
Sweater and matching cardigan in blue tweed mixture with beige and brown trims, from Upstairs at Lord John, £25 the set. Camel barathea skirt with full front flap, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11.95. White shirt with black and yellow floral print, by Riva, £4-95. Grey cardigan with yellow stripe, by Virginia, £14. Grey wrap-over barathea skirt with pockets on hips, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £11-95. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.
Green straw hat with pink velvet trim, from Universal Witness, £5. Pale blue flower-printed sleeveless blouse with cowl neck, £4. Brown flowered crepe skirt, £6. Both from Van Der Fransen. Pink wool and angora cardigan, by Crochetta, £10. Pale green straw hat with green velvet trim, £5. Cream and brown printed short-sleeved blouse with two breast pockets, matching skirt with elasticated waistband, £11.60 the set. All by Universal Witness. Green wool and angora cardigan with ribbed waistband, by Crochetta, £10.
Brown felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Pink and violet print blouse with cape collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long cream boucle cardigan with hip pockets and tie belt, by Crochetta, £13. Black jersey skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black and white lace-up ankle boots, by Terry de Haviland, £15.99. Wool gloves, by Morley, 72p. Grey felt pull-on hat with large brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Blue and white spotted sleeveless blouse, with cowl collar, by Van Der Fransen, £4. Long white ribbed cardigan with hip pockets, by Twomax, £7.50. Long grey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Black wool gloves from a selection at Browns.
Black cotton shirt with floral print, by Cacharel at Browns, £7. Camel cardigan with V-neck and thin white stripes, by Virginia, £15. Black jersey gored skirt, by Spectrum, £6.50. Cream jersey dress with scalloped Peter Pan collar, by Gillian Richard, £9.80. Long navy blue cardigan with round neck, by McCaul, £4. Navy blue bag, from Biba, £5.85.
A 19 SPECIAL PREVIEW OF AN EXCITING DESIGNER’S COLLECTION
Sheridan Barnett, pictured above, is the young designer who gave Coopers such a good look and who has now joined the Quorum label, with Ossie Clark and Alice Pollock. At twenty-six, he has established himself as the most exciting designer in London, with a fabulous first collection for Quorum that left them clapping in the aisles. Women’s Wear Daily, the fashion bible of America, devoted an entire double-page spread to his collection, previously unheard of for an English designer. He designs with his girlfriend, a ballet dancer, in mind, and ladies like Grace Coddington, model Eija and Liza Minnelli: “Girls who are individual and chic, interesting, attractive and with oomph . .” and likes them to look alluring, classy and sexy. At the moment, his clothes are expensive but we are hopeful that, later on, they will be available in the cheaper Radley range as Ossie Clark’s clothes are. Meanwhile look out for similar lines.
My slightly belated tribute to the great Sheridan Barnett, who died in November. He is one of those many British designers of the time whose work doesn’t really get the attention he deserves; as you can see here his tailoring was exquisite.
Call it nostalgia, admission of defeat, lack of inventiveness or what you will: the ugly fact is that there is a strong trend among designers to dig up the Fifties for a fashion revival. Those were the days of the A-line, the tulip dress, Lurex and pleated skirts. If you are disturbed at a Fifties revival, so are we. We think it a period in fashion terms best forgotten, with one or two exceptions. If you don’t favour the fashion but fancy the authentic ambiance you’ll get the right idea at Mr Freedom’s restaurant, Feed’em, where we photographed. Here, written about in the Fiftie’s style, are some of the up-dated Fifties fashions on sale now.
At the same time as the Thirties and Forties were being raided by British Boutique designers, so were the Fifties (or Fiftie’s as so spectacularly put here) and it’s pretty hilarious to see the cynicism by the writer here (possibly fashion editor Sarah Drummond) – who had presumably been a young woman then. The cyclical nature of fashion is nothing new and nor is the disbelief when it’s happening in your own timeline!
On another note, it’s always lovely to see some new-to-me shots inside the legendary Mr Feed’em restaurant!
Photographed by John Kelly.
Scanned from Flair, November 1971.
Crepe pencil skirt and pure wool knitted top that you can dress up or down as you please with a clever change of accessories. Button through fastening gives the skirt special new back interest. Skirt £6. Sweater, £4.50 both by Stirling Cooper. Seamed stockings 30p by Aristoc. Black suede and red patent peep toe shoes, Ravel, £5.50.
A flamboyant crepe de chine evening number, in an adventurous chintzy print with snazzy flounced skirt, £10.50 by Sheridan Barnett at Simon Massey. Black suede sandals with ankle straps, Bilbo, £7. Red beaded necklace, Corocraft, 49p. Purple and pink Perspex bangles, Adrien Mann, 30p each.
Smart-as-paint coat that captures all the intriguing fashion points of the season; with a generous fullness at the back. Created in a delightful brown and beige wool blanket fabric. Bus Stop £19.95. Brown leather boots. Sacha £8.99.
Neat ladylike costume in carefree Tricel jersey. The swirling skirt is a-flutter with knife pleats and the short fitted jacket has an optional tie. In an opulent new shade of plum and white, by Angela at London Town £20. Burgundy brimmed felt hat, Bermona, £1.70. Mulberry tights, Mary Quant, 75p. Multi strapped shoes, Mondaine, £11.99.
Black satin beret, by Titfers, £8.50. Black satin blouse with shooting stars embroidered in beads, £6.95; half-mast trousers, £4.95, both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Diamante star brooch on beret, by Paul Stephens, 75p. Dangly fake diamond earring from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Fake diamond necklace from a selection at the Purple Shop, Antiquarius. Black satin beret with rhinestone stars, by Titfers, £8-50. Black satin ‘Superstar’ zipper jacket and trousers, by Angela At London Town, £17. Dangly fake diamond earring, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Art Deco wall mirror, £6 and black and silver hand mirror, from a selection at Antiquarius. Lipstick and make-up by Biba.
Christmas is coming, so take a good long look at the new you and your clothes. Look for something sexy in black with lots of spangles, for diamonds are a girl’s best friend again.
Just one word from me: Perfection.
Hair by Ricci Burns. Fashion by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by David Tack.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1971
Floral print, crepe de Chine backless dress with halter neck, by Sheridan Barnett at Simon Massey, £8.75. Black sequin snood, from Crocodile, £4. Sheer black tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede shoes, by Ravel, £6.50. Diamante clip on velvet band, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Diamante bracelet, £3.45. Ring, 60p. By Paul Stephens. Black fur fabric jacket, £15.95. Floral-printed, crepe de Chine dress with black bodice, £12-75. Both by Sheridan Barnett at Simon Massey. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes, from Sacha, £5.99. Diamante slides, 30p. each. Crescent moon diamante slides, 75p. each. Rings, 60p. each. All by Paul Stephens. Choker, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Garter, from Crocodile, £1.50. Mirrors, from the Purple Shop, Antiquarius.
Black satin beret, by Titfers, £8.50. Floral printed rayon blouse with batwing sleeves and knitted waist, cuffs and collar, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £6-50. Two-tone panelled satin skirt, by Mr Freedom, £6.25. Sheer black one-size tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede peep-toe shoes with red patent butterfly, from Ravel, £6.50. Black velvet beret, by Titfers, £4. Satin spot blouse with knitted rib trim and zipper fastening, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £6.50. Two-tone satin skirt, by Mr Freedom, £6.25. Sheer black one-size tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede shoes with bow, by Sacha, £5.99. Purse from Q.9 at Antiquarius, £2. Small star brooch and crescent moon brooch, 55p. each, both by Paul Stephens. Diamante bracelets on wrist and ankle, by Paul Stephens, £3.45 each.
Little black knee-length dress in ribbed crepe with satin insets and neck tie, by Ossie Clark for Radley, £13. Black veiling net, from all leading department stores. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes with red patent trim, by Ravel, £6.50. Diamante bracelet, £3.45. Ring, 60p. Both by Paul Stephens. Moss crepe bolero, in shocking pink with black spots, over bonded-crepe halter-neck dress with spotty trimming, by Rosy Bradford for Quorum, £15.50. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes, by Sacha, £5.99. Diamante bracelet, by Paul Stephens, £2.
Patricia Roberts designs exclusive hand knits worn by the famous and sold in the most prestigious fashion boutiques in Europe and America.
In 1976 she opened a knitting shop at 60 Kinnerton Street, London S.W.1., selling her own brand of hand knitting wools called “Woollybear Yarns”.
Such was the success of these pure natural yarns dyed in beautiful flattering colours, that buyers from prestige storesthroughout the country were quick to include them in their ranges.
1978 sees the first of Patricia’s magazines to be published independently. All the designs are knitted in Patricia’s “Woollybear Yarns”.
For the first time knitters will have the opportunity to knit these patterns in the luxurious and inexpensive yarns, for which Patricia’s designs are intended.
Happy Knitting!
Possibly some of the loveliest photographs I have ever seen in a knitting pattern booklet, but perhaps unsurprising given the designer is Patricia Roberts and the photographer Rolph Gobits.
Art Direction by Desmond Serjeant.
Hair by Smile.
Make-up by Mary Vango.
Models: Joanna Jacobs, Kelly, Jane Rochelle, Kevin Hand, Helmut.
Photographed by Rolph Gobits.
Scanned from Patricia Roberts Knitting Patterns, 1978.
“Harold and Maude” – Trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Fruit Machine’ – Paisley print shirt and trousers by Wendy Dagworthy. Black trousers by Victor Herbert.
‘The Whisperers’ – Her skirt and jacket by 11342; his trousers and shirt by Margaret Howell; her shoes by Zapata.
‘Jigsaw’ – Trousers by Patricia Roberts.
‘Blithe Spirit’ – Skirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett. Shoes by Zapata.
‘Gentleman Prefer Blondes’ – Shirt by Wendy Dagworthy. Trousers by Daily Blue. Shoes by Walkers.
‘Kaleidoscope’ – Blue shirt by Margaret Howell; check shirt by Paul Howie. Skirt by Jap.
‘A man…’ – Shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell.
‘…and a Woman’ – Trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Midnight Lace’ – Trousers and skirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett. Shoes by Zapata.
‘John & Mary’ – His shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell. Her trousers by Daily Blue, her shirt by Wendy Dagworthy.
‘Two for the Road’ – Shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell.
‘Some Like it Hot’ – His shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell. Her trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Ninotchka; – Shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett, trousers by Jap, Belt by Mulberry Company.
‘A Touch of Class’ – Shirt by Margaret Howell; Waistcoat by Patricia Roberts; skirt by Michiko.
‘Joey Boy’ – Trousers by Margaret Howell.
Patricia Roberts photographed by Rolph Gobits.
“So many things are now mass produced, that there is a growing belief in individuality. Hand knitting is an expression of this freedom, which anyone can enjoy.”
Remember those Joan Crawford, Bette Davis, Hollywood weepies where men were heroes and women were fluttery, feminine creatures who stayed at home, controlling the tremble in their lower lips when the boys went off to war? Well, the best of the Joan Crawford era has finally hit town, and few designers have caught on to the ‘Forties look as successfully as Sheridan Barnett of Tony Berkeley. A talented twenty-three-year-old, he is one of the newest designers to emerge in London. He obviously likes women to be women as his clothes are beautifully cut and styled and are entirely feminine. He has a keen eye for line and simple detail which he carries through in his choice of fabric. All the dresses photographed (available from the Way In at Harrods) are in Tricel and show how important shape has become again. The clothes are seductive with the emphasis on simplicity and style …
Model is Ingrid Boulting.
Photographed by David Tack.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1970.
Black patent shoes by Paradise. Artificial cherries from John Lewis.