How Original!

19 magazine, 1970s, Antiquarius, biba, british boutique movement, Chelsea Antiques Market, Christian Larroque, Emmerton and Lambert, Essences, Essenses, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, jenny kee, MEE Designs, Ricci Burns, Sacha, susan marsh, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

In this age of mass-production, finding clothes that have an individual look is becoming more and more difficult. But a few enterprising minds in London have got round the problem by buying old clothes, in beautiful prints that one doesn’t see these days, and remaking them in today’s styles. Though the styles are repeated, the materials are different and each garment is quite unique. If you don’t live in London, don’t despair. Look around for a clever seamstress who can copy the styles for you. Then, it’s a matter of combing jumble sales, or looking among granny’s cast-offs, for unusual prints. Don’t, however, cut up clothes in good condition. You’ll get a good price for these in London markets. And if you do come to London, go round the markets instead of the stores and boutiques – there’s a lot to be picked up!

An extraordinarily styled and photographed editorial featuring Van der Fransen, Emmerton and Lambert and Essences, all of whom were trailblazers in the world of vintage and recycled fashion.

This shoot also manages to answer two of my most frequently asked questions: what is your favourite editorial and what do you think the future of fashion will be. The former is probably a moveable feast, although this one is definitely up there with my other favourite, but the latter is still something I believe strongly. Especially in a post-pandemic landscape, I am not sure (and definitely hopeful) that we will ever see the same levels of mass production post-2020. Not for want of desire by the high street shops, but because people have maybe recognised that, actually, they don’t need armfuls of cheap synthetic, single-use garments. Perhaps the aesthetics and principles of these recyclers of the Sixties and Seventies will finally be adopted as our default? We could stop producing new clothes and fabrics right now and probably never reach the end of the piles of recyclable materials. And that’s not even taking wearable vintage garments into account. Do you feel your shopping habits have changed permanently?

Red wig by Robert at Ricci Burns.

Photographed by Christian Larroque.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1972.

Beautiful old sun dress in rayon crepe and silk from Van der Fransen. Tights and shoes from Biba.
Navy and white smock in various prints of rayon crepe and skirt both by Van der Fransen. Tights and shoes by Biba.
Intricate patchwork dress and long skirt from Emmerton and Lambert. Green tights and mauve shoes from Biba.
Jenny Kee of Emmerton and Lambert at Chelsea Antique Market, wearing a Chinese kimono and trousers from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Model wears a blouse made up of old scarves in satin and silk from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Gingham shoes from Biba. Photographed at The Terrace Cafe, Chelsea Antique Market.
Slinky cross cut dress in various printed crepes and crepes de Chine from Essences. Blue tights and mauve shoes both from Biba. Scarf from Essences.
Patchwork dress of old printed fabrics from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Tights and gingham shoes from Biba. Plastic dragonfly at neck from Susan Marsh.
Spotted two piece from Essences. Tights from Biba. Shoes from Sacha. Lovely old shawl from Essences.
Navy blue and white print smock with contrasting sleeves by MEE Designs. Jeans from Browns. Clogs by Sacha. Photographed at MEE Designs at Antiquarius.
White satin Twenties style dress by MEE Designs at Antiquarius. Tights and shoes from Biba.

Peasant in the Sun

1970s, Bata, Bermona, biba, Britannia Land of Plenty, Buckle Under, chelsea cobbler, clobber, Diane Logan, Elliott, hampstead bazaar, Inca, laura ashley, Marielle, mary quant, miss mouse, Pamela Dennis, petticoat magazine, rae spencer cullen, ravel, Richard Green, Roger Charity, Russell & Bromley, Souk, Splinters, Sue Hone, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Mary Quant pinny worn over cheesecloth dress at The Souk. Britannia Land of Plenty silver armband. Buckle Under hat. Ravel shoes / Cheese cloth shirt and matching skirt by Richard Green. Woolworths hairnet. Buckle Under hat. Russell and Bromley shoes.

Summer’s peasant clothes come in brightly frilled cotton or in soft layers of cheesecloth with a bazaar of sunny straws and beads.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from Petticoat, 6th June 1972.

Souk pinny. Calico shirt with starry ribbon trim from Splinters. / Embroidered smock at Inca. Richard Green cheesecloth skirt. Waistcoat from Inca. Ravel suede sandals.
Miss Mouse seeksucker dress. Diane Logan boater. Biba false flowers. / Miss Mouse gingham dress. Bermona straw boater. Chelsea Cobbler wedge sandals.
Embroidered dress by Souk. Buckle Under Bowler. Britannia Land of Plenty shoulder bag. Elliotts sandals. / Midi skirt and cheesecloth dress at Souk. Inca wool belt. Buckle Under crochet cap. Bata sandals.
Long embroidered skirt with gathered waist from Hampstead Bazaar. Cheesecloth top by Clobber. Embroidered beret from Britannia Land of Plenty. Elliotts sandals. Straw bag from Inca. / Long checked cheesecloth dress by Marielle. Glass flower brooch from Van der Fransen.
Laura Ashley skirt. Calico smock by Pamela Dennis. Forbidden Fruit belt. / Laura Ashley top and skirt. Silk shawl from Britannia Land of Plenty. Shoes by Ravel.

Soft Summer Shape-Ups

Bata, Britannia Land of Plenty, forbidden fruit, jane giunchi, Martha Hill, Nik Nik, petticoat magazine, Plain Clothes, ravel, Roger Charity, stirling cooper, Sue Hone, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Nik Nik floral print dress. Stirling Cooper satin pants. Ravel mules. / Striped skirt at Martha Hill. Blouse with embroidered flowers at Forbidden Fruit branches. Bata mules. Jane Giunchi brooch.

You can take the summer’s pastels just the way you want. When you’re not wearing neat and co-ordinated nursery prints, try pink and blue in peasant style. You’ll find a pettiness you thought had vanished.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from Petticoat, 10th June 1972.

Floral print skirt at Britannia Land of Plenty. Plain Clothes short sleeved vest at Sidney Smith. Brooch and print scarf both at Van der Fransen.

Happy ever after

1970s, alkasura, crowthers, Inspirational Images, jane giunchi, Margaret Howell, medusa, mr darren, Mr Darren, Newfanglenesse, petticoat magazine, Steve Hiett, steven hiett, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Viyella smock by Alkasura. Medusa shorts. Universal Witness bag.

Picture yourself in a land of featherlight voile and dewy country cotton, buzzing with tiny weeny flybynight characters, and you might find a lovely romantic fairytale ending…

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from Petticoat, 26th June 1971.

Cotton shorts and top from Crowthers. Cotton skirt from Van der Fransen. Crowthers cotton shirt and shirt. Oversmock by Mr Darren. Badges by Jane Giunchi.
Voile shorts and yoked top by Mr Darren. Leather choker from Alkasura. Voile shorts and smock by Mr Darren. Enamel pendant by Newfangelnesse.
Crowthers cotton shorts and shirt. Margaret Howell green and yellow vest. Jane Giunchi badge.
Cotton shirt and shorts by Crowthers. Belt and pendant by Newfanglenesse.
Clobber crepe smock. Newfanglenesse pendant. Van de Fransen panama.

What’s On!

1970s, biba, brighton, Browns, carr jones, che guevara, chelsea cobbler, Derber, Elliott, gordon king, Harrods, Inspirational Images, liberty, liberty's, margit brandt, Nik Nik, petticoat magazine, Sally Tuffin, shoes, Tony Norris, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, way in
Nik Nik cotton shorts. Cotton top with ribbed waist and cuffs by Nik Nik. Biba belt. Shoes by Chelsea Cobbler at Che Guevara. / Nik Nik shirt. Canvas cut off pants by Nik Nik. See through Derber shoes. All Nik Nik clothes are exclusive to Way In, Harrods.

When you think you’ve seen all there is to see about separates, spring turns around and finds a whole new way of doing things! What’s on now? Cotton and cord going to any lengths with pants… soft lawn with tiny prints for shirting and some of the very newest skirts. And we’re giving you ideas about what spring’s all about!

Always lovely to see the West Pier here in Brighton, in all its glory two years before its closure in 1975. For those not familiar with it, the West Pier has had a very sad and protracted demise since then and only the skeleton remains, stranded out at sea. Thankfully, its prettier heyday was well-documented on film and in shoots like this.

Photographed by Tony Norris.

Scanned from Petticoat, 10th March 1973.

Cotton shirt by Nik Nik. Cord boy-scout shorts by Gordon King. Biba scarf. Biba shoes. / Cheesecloth shirt by Nik Nik. Cotton drainpipe pants by Sally Tuffin. Shoes at Che Guevara.
Cape-sleeved rever shirt by Margit Brandt at Carr Jones. Cotton cut-off pants by Nik Nik. Scarf by Van der Fransen. Paul Stephens bracelet. Elliott lace-up shoes. / Left Bank cotton top at Garb. Gordon King pants. Biba bracelet and brooch. Derber shoes.
Cotton smock by Tabu. Canvas pants by Nik Nik. Derber shoes. / Liberty print shirt and Sally Tuffin pants at Browns. Patent slingbacks by Chelsea Cobbler at Che Guevara.
Margit Brandt at Carr Jones shirt. Paul Stephens bangle / Skirt and jersey shirt by Nik Nik. Van der Fransen earrings.
Cheesecloth shirt with zip front by Nik Nik. Pencil skirt by Gordon King. Biba hairslie. High heels with piping by Chelsea Cobbler at Che Guevara. / Cotton smock by Tabu. Check wool plus fours by Gordon King. Scarf by Van der Fransen. Two-tone court shoes by Chelsea Cobbler at Che Guevara.

If All The World Were Summer

1970s, Amir Scorpio, biba, Buckle Under, crowthers, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Jonvelle, Just Jane, medusa, stirling cooper, Sujon, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Far left: White cotton sailor shirt from Medusa. Tomato and white gingham dirndl by Just Jane. Panama hat by Buckle Under. Near left: Grass green and white gingham shirt over full green and red gingham skirt by Stirling Cooper. Straw hat from Crowthers. Men’s cream shirts throughout by Jeff Banks.

…Then dressing’s a picnic. All these nice new laundered clothes and country girls from Colette stories out in the green fields under blue Provençal skies, with wine and fruit and flowers.

Photographed by Jonvelle.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971

Creamy cheesecloth smock and skirt by Amir Scorpio. Hat by Buckle Under.
Smock of field plains, flower or spot prints, ruched and loose over bias skirt of buttercup crepe de chine at Universal Witness. Black straw hat from a range at Van der Fransen.
Near right: Flowering crepe de chine blouse by Sujon. Fully gathered emerald cotton skirt by Just Jane. Straw hat from Buckle Under. Far right: Black and red and brilliant Liberty mixtures gathered in frills and flounces by Foale and Tuffin. Flower and suede belts by Buckle Under.
Sky cotton blouse with red buttons, red stitching and long blue skirt by Sujon. Blue suede belt by Buckle Under. Black hat from Van der Fransen.
Cotton lawn smock in primary patches by Foale and Tuffin. Panama by Buckle Under. Clogs from Biba.

Get Shirty

1970s, Adrian Mann, alice pollock, alkasura, Butler & Wilson, cacharel, che guevara, Dick Polak, Honey Magazine, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Joseph, marie france, quorum, Roger Nelson, stirling cooper, Susie Craker, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

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LEFT: Salmon pink crepe overblouse with short fluted sleeves, Marie France for Quorum £10 approx, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Wealk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3 ; Quorum shops at all branches of Peter Robinson. Satin trousers, Alkasura £6.50, ,from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Apricot beads £5, amber bangles from 20p each, wide yellow bangle £2, all from Emeline. RIGHT: Crêpe shirred blouse. with tie neck, Alice Pollock at.Quorum £10 approx, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3; Quorum shops at all branches of Peter Robinson. Green satin trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Jeff Banks Shop at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1; City Stylish, Newcastle. Gilt dress clips, Universal Witness from 25p each.

The season of the shirt. Wild and waisted. Smart, sharp and snappy. Crisp, cuffed sleeves for the new tight and tailored look. Soft and slinky overblouses to revive the romantic 40s.

The first picture has got to be one of my favourite fashion shots of all time. Such joy in movement, perfect lighting, and harmonious colours from the most heavenly Quorum clothes.

Photographed by Dick Polak.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, May 1973.

get shirty 1

LEFT: Crisp white crêpe pintucked overblouse £8.50, from all branches of Bus Stop (mail order 30p from 3 Kensington Church Street W8). Satin trousers, Alkasura £6.50, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3, Thin patent belt, Gay Designs 69p; sea green waist-length bead necklace £4.50, short green necklace £3, and art-deco bangles £2 each, all from a selection at Butler & Wilson. RIGHT: Neat cotton sports shirt with patch pockets, Cacharel at Joseph £8.50, from Joseph, 33b King’s Road, SW3 (mail order 25p). White cotton trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 (mail order 25p) ; Jeff Banks shop at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1. Thin leather belt, Baggage Et General £1.10; plum plastic bangles, Adrien Mann 25p.

get shirty 2

LEFT: Finely striped cotton casual shirt, Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper £6.50, from Stirling Cooper, 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at DH Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1, Leeds, Norwich and Cardiff ; Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Gaberdine Oxford bags, Alkasura £9.50, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Long polka-dot scarf, Van der Fransen £1 ; wide amber bangle, Paul Stephens 25p; ebony clutch bangle, Adrien Mann £1 ; stretchy webbing belt, Gay Designs £4. RIGHT: Button-through striped cotton blouse with matching attached cravat and deep cuffed sleeves, Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper £7.50 (stockists as for shirt above). Cotton trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 (mail order 25p) ; Jeff Banks shop, Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus W1. Enamel dress clips, Universal Witness from 25p each; wavy webbing belt, Gay Designs £4; amder bangles, Emeline 20p each.

get shirty 4

LEFT Smartly striped square-necked. crepe-de-chine overblouse with set-in short sleeves, Suzy Craker at Roger Nelson £9.50, from Way In, Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1 (mail order 25p) Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 ; Crocodile, Kensington High Street, W8 and .branches. Lilac Trevira trousers, Jakie Ross at Jon Elliott £6.70, from D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; I Spy, Oxford Street, W1 ; Sidney. Smith, King’s Road, SW3; Hendersons, Liverpool. Elastic and leather belt from a selection at Escalade ; bangles, Emeline £2 each. RIGHT : Rainbow striped loose overblouse with sweetheart neckline and puff sleeves, Ian Batten at Siding Cooper 16.50, from Stirling Cooper, 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3; Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1, Leeds, Norwich and Cardiff ; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Gaberdine Oxford bags. Alkasura £8, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Lime green patent belt, Gay Designs 69p; long bobble beads, Paul Stephens, 85p.

Rings and Things

1970s, accessories, Alan Cracknell, biba, Dolcis, Illustrations, miss selfridge, petticoat magazine, platforms, ravel, shoes, van der fransen, way in

rings and things

Illustration by Alan Cracknell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, December 1970.

Soft Summer Shape-ups

1970s, biba, bus stop, Crochetta, gillian richard, Inspirational Images, Jasper, John Carter, Lizzie Carr, petticoat magazine, Samm, stirling cooper, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

Soft Summer Shape-ups 2

Gillian Richard pinny. Van der Fransen sailor blouse. Biba espadrilles. Cotton blouse and animal print winceyette shirt, both by Richard Green at Lady M ships. Raffia beret, wire bracelet and cherries, all from Biba.

This is the freshest summer fashion story so far. The prettiest pastel shades with tiny nursery prints you must be happy in. These clothes do the most for a girl and whatever your shape you’ll find all manner of pants, aprons and shirts to match your own personality.

Photographed by John Carter.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat Magazine, June 1972.

Soft Summer Shape-ups 3

Jasper shirt. Pants by Lizzie Carr for Plain Clothes. Biba beret.

Soft Summer Shape-ups 4

Shirt by Lizzie Car for Plain Clothes. Canvas pants at Stirling Cooper.

Soft Summer Shape-ups 5

Crochetta sweater at Knits and Leathers. Satin pants by Lizzle Carr for Plain Clothes. Edward Mann hat. Ankle strap shoes by Samm.

Soft Summer Shape-ups 1

Satin bermudas and satin smock, both by Lizzie Carr for Plain Clothes. Rosebud vest from Bus Stop. Edward Mann hat.

Cheap and Lovely

1970s, Angela at London Town, anji, biba, bus stop, Dorothy Perkins, edward mann, erica budd, harold ingram, Inspirational Images, Jean Claude Volpeliere, lee bender, mr freedom, petticoat magazine, Sacha, Sue Hone, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

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Calico blouse from Bus Stop. Gingham skirt by Angela of London Town. Flower brooch from Gear. Edward Mann hat. Mr Freedom sox.

It’s not only the birds that are going cheap this spring – fashion is too. For so many great new ideas and at such an early stage in the proceedings, they seem to be asking us to pay very little. So we can show you wear-every-day clothes at your price to our heart’s content.

Photographed by Jean Claude Volpeliere. Fashion by Sue Hone.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, February 1972.

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Left: Check pleated skirt from Bus Stop. Tee by Harold Ingram. Van der Fransen scarf. Right: Dorothy Perkins check mini skirt and tee-shirt.

cheap-and-lovely-2

Left: Dorothy Perkins brushed denim jeans and smock. Van der Fransen beads. Ravel suede shoes. Right: Dorothy Perkins cord jeans. Angela at London town floral blouse. Chenille bolero by Erica Budd. Silver watch from Biba. Beret by Edward Mann. Shoes by Sacha.

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Cheesecloth skirt and blouse from Bus Stop. Bermona hat. Ravel shoes.

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Red and navy motor car sweater by Janine at Girl shops. Red smock coat from Bus Stop. Red pants by Angela at London town. Ravel shirt. Edward Mann hat.

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Yellow print dress by Anji. Edward Mann felt hat with cherries.