The Minnelli Style

1970s, david bailey, Halston, Inspirational Images, Liza Minnelli, Meriel McCooey, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine

Liza Minnelli has been in show business off and on since the age of three when she had her first walk-on part in The Good Old Summertime. Now at the age of 27 she is a firmly established, gutsy, vital, talented star who appears to have the necessary resilience to stay one. But the public demands that its current idols should always be on show, so Liza Minnelli’s looks, costumes and make-up have become an essential part of her professional life. But did she really like clothes ?

“Well, I am one of the 10 best dressed women in the world — so they tell me.” Who tells you? “They tell me.” She gave an abrupt shout of laughter and then looked gloomy, as if the sound of her voice depressed her. Dressed in a beige knitted suit bordered with a brown frieze and wearing no make-up, she apologised for keeping us waiting just a few minutes, and explained that she had been rehearsing for the three concerts that she was to do in London later that week. “Do you mind if I eat something? I haven’t had a bite all day.” Rapidly she spooned her way through a plate of clear soup, crunched some celery, and cut a slice of cheese which she ate like cake. Did she diet? “No, I really don’t have to. I drop pounds when I work; the weight just rolls off.” When she I was younger she tipped the scales at over ll stone; she’s thinner now, but still nicely curvy rather than model-girl skinny.

Stage costumes designed by Keith Hodges

In the bedroom she opened her wardrobe door: it bulged with clothes. “I’m afraid that I haven’t got much here, all the really great stuff is on its way from the States.” On her dressing-table, next to a bottle of Vitamin B with Vitamin C complex tablets, were rows of giant lashes laid out like dead insects — these eyelashes have become almost her trade-mark. “And we’ve got boxes more,” said her secretary. “They are made from real hair,” Liza explained. “Christina makes them up for me, and when they get a bit tacky we send them back and she washes and re-does them for me.”

Her emphatic, idiosyncratic make-up was created by the Hollywood beautician Christina (Christina prefers the word ‘created’), and from time to time she` tums up to adjust it and apply it. “Shc designed it for me but wrote it all down so that I can do it myself.” Liza disappeared into the bathroom, emerging minutes later having washed and dried her short dark hair. Quickly she applied  her make-up and expertly fixed on a pair of the enormous lashes which fanned around her large, expressive eyes like peacock’s feathers.

Clothes by Halston

The off-stage clothes that she showed us looked classic and good, a few from St Laurent, lots from Halston whose clothes she adores, others from De Noyer; her silver jewellery was designed by Peretti for Halston in New York. Some of the clothes, like Halston’s slinky black jersey dress and his black sequinned suit, she wears both on and off stage: “I simply adore black,” she said. Once she complained that just because she had been to 22 schools and had tive fathers everyone ex- pected her to be a delinquent: “But I had an English nanny for four years.” Even so, you get the feeling that the girl who used to wear bright green nail varnish and heavy purple eye- shadow lurks quite near the surface.

A friend said: “At home she looks diiferent. She wears funky blue jeans and outrageous shoes.” “Yes, I do like shoes,” she admitted. More than anything else? “Yes, you could say more than anything else.” She produced a pair of white skin, stubby-toed shoes with incredibly high heels which were studded with multi—coloured rhinestones which glittered and flashed in the lights.

“Desi calls them my Buicks,” (Desi Arnaz Jnr., her boy—friend before the arrival of Peter Sellers). “I buy them from Fred Slatten in California. They are the best sort of shoes, made in Italy with the diamanté stuck on in America.” She says that she is a mixture of Italian, French and Irish. The press cuttings suggest she is part Jewish too? “N0, I’m not, but my half-sister Lorna (Luft) is half-Jewish. The Press make mistakes. I get irritated when they put expressions into my mouth that I wouldn’t use, like ‘haargh’ or ‘yee-uck’, which don’t sound like me. Occasionally I might use ‘shri-ek’ – but not much. A reporter once wrote that he called on me when I was living in a London mews, banged on the door, no-one came, but as he walked away, a top window opened, and I appeared and threw a bottle of vodka at him. I have never lived in a London mews — and I don’t drink vodka.”

Clothes by Halston

Her off-stage wardrobe may have calmed down a bit, but on stage she glitters and shines in extravagant theatrical fantasies. “You would have flipped if I’d had the red satin here, it’s straight, not cut on the bias. And the cloche hat with the flower. Oh, but I really want the red dress.

“Keith Hodges designed it for me with the hat. Keith’s 26 years old and works for himself in California. He sent me a couple of sketches one day, they were simple but extraordinary. One had this hat, another a boa. A funny look. You wou1dn’t have wanted it yourself but I felt that it was right for me. They were a combination of something that Chanel might have designed and someone like Casati might have worn.” Marchesa Casati was one of the most exotic personalities of the early 1900s; a great hostess who painted her face white, dyed her hair flame-red before it was considered ‘proper’, ringed her eyes with kohl, wore tiger skins and eccentric hats, and kept a small Tunisian slave whom she once painted gold.

“I intend to make a film about her with my father. We’ve been looking for the right thing for ages. It’s from a novel, The Film of Memory by Maurice Druon, and it’s about Casati’s relationship with a little room-maid, when she’s old and sick living in the Hotel Inghilterra in Rome. She changes the girl’s life. I’ll play the maid who becomes a kind of mirror to the old woman’s memories, and in the few of the flash-backs I’ll play Casati.

“For Cabaret we almost did the clothes ourselves. There was a designer, I won’t mention her name, but the original clothes were just ‘the pits’. I had to tell her about shoulder pads and explain what ‘cut on the bias’ meant. Once I said ‘Look, before the war . . .’ and she said ‘What war ?’ Imagine. In one scene Fosse [the director, Bob Fosse] threw me his tuxedo waistcoat and said ‘Try this’. It worked so I wore it.” She paused: “You know there is a real Sally Bowles? She really exists. Isn’t it funny, Sally desperately wanted to be famous and important – she wanted to be – and now she is.”

Interview by Meriel McCooey. Photographs by David Bailey. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Sunday Times Magazine, July 1973

Dress by Halston

I love you Pinky…

1970s, biba, british boutique movement, jean varon, john bates, website listings, yves saint laurent

Never again will I take movement for granted. About ten days ago, while I was running around preparing to meet up with the gorgeous Laurakitty and then doll myself up for the preview of the new Biba exhibition at Brighton Museum, I managed to ram my foot into my ever-present suitcase. Hard. So hard, in fact, that my pinky toe on my left foot was newly positioned at a right angle.

Of course I could have concocted a taller, more glamorous story about how I had tripped over the hem of my Ossie Clark dress (you know I run around in them all day, right?) or had tumbled from the stratospheric heights of my Terry de Havilland shoes (same as the Ossies, always in them…always…). Sadly, I was barefoot and the reality was painful and distinctly unglamorous. I managed to reset it myself (not quite sure how, I just moved it, not painful until the shock wore off…) and have been flat-bound and hobbling like a hobbly thing ever since. I have been told four to six weeks recovery time, in which I am unable to wear any of my nice shoes and have to keep pinky strapped up to its neighbour. There ensued much swearing and sulking when I realised that Biba (and, a few days later, the Festival of Vintage in Epsom) was definitely out of the question.

Unlike Tara, I have not been fighting thugs and solving crimes from the sofa. But I have been posed rather like this most of the time…

Sympathy (and tea and biscuits) are always welcome, but I mainly wanted to explain my slight absence from the blogging thing. I have been going stir crazy with boredom, but blogging seemed to be the last thing on my mind. Hard to get too excited about frocks and other fripperies when you are banished to the land of trainers and a very strange new walking style.

I am now just about able to get up the stairs to the studio, so slowness in frock dispatchery should be reduced. And there are some fine, fine things to be seen. New listings include Biba jackets, John Bates dresses and Yves Saint Laurent shoes, amongst many other things.

Inspirational Editorials: Coats at the Barbican

1960s, Architecture, Barbican, Elgee, Inspirational Images, petticoat magazine, Richard Dunkley, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials, wallis

Coat by Elgee

I spent a month working at the Barbican last year, and fell in love with its strange beauty while I wandered around on my breaks. Sometimes these things need to grow on you, or for time to pass on past experiences; it is safe to say that I was never much of a fan during the seemingly endless trips to see the RSC there in my schooldays, nor when I went for a rather traumatic audition at Guildhall…

Amazing to see this glorious Petticoat spread, photographed at the Barbican when it was still a little Brutalist Baby in 1973.

Photographed by Richard Dunkley. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, October 1973

Coat by Shapes

Coat by Stirling Cooper

Coat by Sheraton

Coat by Wallis Shops

Vintage Adverts: Deodorant and a free Marc Bolan poster

1970s, marc bolan, Vintage Adverts

Scanned from 19 magazine, June 1973

So disappointed that I’m 39 years too late to get my free Marc Bolan poster. Dang.

Far From the Madding Crowd

1970s, Ann Reeves, biba, british boutique movement, bus stop, Inspirational Images, irvine sellars, jeff banks, John Carter, lee bender, miss selfridge, mr freedom, peter robinson, petticoat magazine, topshop

Left to right: Dress, Jeff Banks, £9.90, P.R’s Top Shop. Dress, Ann Reeves, £9.25, Miss Selfridge,

Soft country girl dresses falling just below the knee in dark flowery prints ready for autumn, great for now. Looking sweet and old-fashioned with padded shoulders, sweetheart necklines or rever collars and cuffs – and all they really need is you and some romantic thoughts!

Very David Hamilton/Sarah Moon influenced shoot by John Carter. Scanned from Petticoat, July 1973.

Left to right: Beige dress, Jeff Banks, £9.90, Lady Tramp SW3. Mr Freedom hat, £2.50. Cream dress, Bus Stop, £9.95.

Left to right: Floral dress, Jeff Banks, £15.90, Irvine Sellars, sizal hat £2.50 from Biba. Black print dress, Ann Reeves, £9, Miss Selfridge.

 

Inspirational Illustrations: Lipsticks are a girl’s best friend

1970s, Hair and make-up, Illustrations, Make-up, philip castle, Vintage Adverts

Boots 17 cosmetics advert. Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1973.

Illustrator sadly uncredited but it certainly has the Philip Castle look.

Vintage Adverts: Pimm’s

1960s, celia hammond, pimm's, susan small, Vintage Adverts

Queen, July 1968. Dress by Susan Small.

Inspirational Illustrations: One law for sons, another for daughters

1960s, Dick Sawers, Illustrations, nova magazine

By Dick Sawers

Scanned from Nova, June 1967

The Cover Girl Look

1970s, alice pollock, Inspirational Images, John Adriaan, laurence harvey, paulene stone

Photographed by John Adriaan

Paulene Stone, this month’s cover girl*, is one of the last of the Great Glamour Girls. In the tradition of Katharine Hepburn, Rita Hayworth and Fiona Von Thyssen, she has had lots of exposure and most of the perks. Like her carpet-sweeping ranch mink, walk-in wardrobe, heated swimming pool and her dishy boyfriend, film star Laurence Harvey.

She’s come a long way from Brighton where, at sixteen, she won a model contest. But Paulene’s solid gold glamour takes work—lots of it. Swimming twenty lengths of her heated OUTDOOR swimming pool, for instance. Especially in winter, Paulene says. “Though I’m not your full sporty type . . . I never get my eyelashes wet.”

She tackles cellulite the tough way. with water massage. Four jets on each side, one at the back, this brisk Japanese water treatment really works, says Paulene. “Every dimple on my buttocks went.” Standing five foot nine inches in her Biba boots, American jeans and sweater—the model girl uniform- she weighs only 8 st. 12 lb. And l’ve seen her eat strawberry jam on bread for lunch, followed by a doughnut. Paulene has plenty of incentives, of course. Her boyfriend is one. “I hate to be outdone by Larry,” she says. He takes daily saunas. She skips this because it dried her skin. A built-in softener in the water tank, lashings of Fenjal and regular sessions with Nair depilatory on her legs, keep that milk-maid skin impeccable.

Paulene casts a cold eye on her skin in the clear light of a fluorescent tube, set in a mirror just above eye-level—very revealing. Like most enduring beauties she knows her flaws down to the last missing eyelash. On the current natural kick. most models have thrown away their false eyelashes. Not  Paulene. “I can’t NOT wear them, I have none of my own. Larry calls me: ’No Eyes’.” Putting her face together starts with Boots No. 7 foundation in a beige tint, spread very fine with a sponge. For pictures she adds a fluff of Germaine Monteil sheer powder which doesn’t add any colour. Estée Lauder’s brick coloured brush-on powder hollows her cheeks. She rings her eyes with Mary Ouant’s dark blue crayon, then adds Cardinelli eyelashes. She plucks her pale eyebrows to a fine arc. then shadows them with Almay’s brown brush-on shadow. Her red hair is streaked twice a year and she prefers to wash it, in herbal shampoo, and set it herself. Her lipstick and nail varnish are currently red.

“Not blood-red, Larry hates obvious red lips. It’s idiotic to irritate a man with your make-up or clothes; the whole point is to attract the opposite sex, not repel them.” says Paulene. Like most men, her fella doesn’t notice clothes unless he doesn’t like them. She remembers when they first met he asked why she didn’t own a little black dress. “He even bought me pearls. That was when l wore white mini kilts and Courreges boots!”

Paulene’s been through several styles from the all-white bit, through Chanel suits to hippy gear, and now she’s back to classics. Her walk-in wardrobe holds clothes by the rackful and several furs. A Herbert Johnson hat box holds two swash-buckling hats with sweeping brims and pheasant feathers and the place reeks lushly of Calandre, Paco Rabanne’s scent. The bathroom wall is lined with nicely narcissistic pictures of Paulene with Larry, plus prints and paintings of leopards, a fox, a Thai tiger in brass and other beautiful felines. Paulene, a well-groomed and well-loved feline herself says: “I’m saving up for my first face lift now. I shall not grow old gracefully.”

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, April 1972.

*Curiously, she isn’t actually the cover model for the issue this appeared in!

Of course Larry and Paulene get their own cover a few issues down the line…

Photographed by John Adriaan

Photographed by John Adriaan

 

Mensday: Cosak Spells Action

1960s, Mensday, menswear, nova magazine, space age, Vintage Adverts

Scanned from Nova, June 1967

Actually I think you’ll find it spells ‘Cosak’, but never mind…

‘Think about COSAK for light relief’, combined with that suspicious looking pump thing they’re holding…? I’m not even going to fall into that dirty mind trap!

See also “Cosak is orbiting