Stephen Marks

All Together Now

1970s, Alexon youngset, anello and davide, Correna, Dents, Dranella, edward mann, Elgee, Escalade, Get, gordon king, Honey Magazine, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Joseph, Martha Hill, mary quant, McCaul, miss selfridge, Mistermonte, Peter Castellano, Reldan, Richard Shops, Stephen Marks, stirling cooper, Sujon, Twomax, Vintage Editorials
LEFT TO RIGHT: Yellow jacket, Stirling Cooper £13.95. Shetland polo neck, Twomax, £3.70. Scarlet wool jacket, Alexon Youngset, £17. Polo neck £3.50, from Joseph, 33b King’s Road, SW3. Fluorescent pink jacket, Stephen Marks £26 (sold as a trouser suit). Shetland polo neck, Twomax £3.50. Acid green wool flannel jacket, Mary Quant £17.90. Cable-stitched sweater, McCauls £2.40. Sunglasses by Correna. All trousers by Sujon, £9.50. Hats by Edward Mann; gloves by Dents.

Jackets are the brightest you’ve ever seen, with enormous checks and swirling swingy backs. They go with vivid sweaters and the widest possible Oxford bags, worn shorter than usual to reveal gleaming white lace-ups and tappy 46 two-tone shoes. What a way to get yourself noticed!

Second model from the left in the top image looks to be Ika Hindley.

Photographed by Peter Castellano.

Scanned from Honey, October 1972.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Bold checked wrapover jacket, Stirling Cooper, £20.95. Sunglasses from a selection by Correna; scarlet knitted gloves, Morley 80p. Lime green. royal blue and white big checked jacket, Stirling Cooper £20.95. Olive green gloves, Dents 70p; sunglasses by Correna. Sugar-pie pink, blue and white bobbly jacket, Gordon King £10. Royal blue woolly gloves, Dents 55p; Lolita glasses from Paris. Wrapover pure wool chequered jacket, Stirling Cooper £19.95. Sunglasses by Correna; gloves, Dents 80p. All skirts £3.50 from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, Wl, mail order 25p extra. Hats £2.40 by Edward Mann; sweaters £3 by John Craig; tights 39p, Mary Quant; shoes Annello & Davide.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Brilliant green, orange, yellow and cherry-red swing jacket, Stirling Cooper £19.95. Polo neck, McCauls £2.40. King-fisher blue, white and royal blue jacket Jeff Banks £12. Button-up jacket in orange, mulberry and yellow wool. Reldan £17.75. Yellow-yoked jacket in cherry red, yellow and royal blue, Get, £20. All gloves from Dents; sunglasses by Correna; hats £2.40 by Edward Mann.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Sunshine yellow waisted flannel jacket with batwing sleeves, Stephen Marks £20. Red and white pinstripe trousers, made in woollen mixture, Mistermonte at Dolly Day £5.25. Brilliant red, yellow and pink checked woollen jacket, Dranella £13. Plain red gabardine Oxford bags, Sujon £9.50. Pillar-box red wool velour jacket with tie belt, Peter Martin £9 from all brancles of Richard Shops. Navy and while pinstriped trousers, Mistermonte at Dolly Day £5.25. Fluorescent pink, yellow and purple plaid acrylic jacket, Elgee £30. Scarlet gabardine Oxford bags, Sujon £9.50. Red woolly gloves, Morley, 80p. All hats Edward Mann, £2.40; gloves (except Morley) Dents 70p; glasses Escalade £2.95; umbrellas with imitation ivory handles Miss Selfridge £2.45.

Vintage Adverts: Borg’s Country Recipe

1970s, british boutique movement, bus stop, Inspirational Images, lee bender, margit brandt, norman parkinson, Stephen Marks, sylvia ayton, Vintage Adverts, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, wallis

Coat by Stephen Marks

Coat by Stephen Marks

Berets by Kangol. Boots from Chelsea Cobbler. Scarves and mufflers from S. Fisher. Skirts and shirts from Sun and Sand.

Photographed by Norman Parkinson.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, October 1974

Both by Margit Brandt at Harrods

Both by Margit Brandt at Harrods

Swagger jacket from Bus Stop

Swagger jacket from Bus Stop

Both coats by Wallis

Both coats by Wallis

The Tight-Ass Suit

1970s, barbara daly, bus stop, Chris Trill, christa peters, cosmopolitan, Courtney Reed, Howie Diffusion, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Liz Smith, Midas, Pamela Frances, Pancaldi, Sacha, Stephen Marks, strawberry studio, Tatters, Vintage Editorials

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Suit by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Belt by Chris Trill. Shoes from Midas.

“Start squaring your shoulders, tightening your belt and walking on four-inch heels…”

A phenomenal editorial which feels very ahead of its time. This is really the birth of ‘Power Dressing’, from February 1979. There’s a curious juxtaposition of old and new, the old telephone and boudoir chair in the final photo suggest the origins of these suits in the Forties while the clunky ‘mobile phone’ is the signpost to the unknown future. Pre-Eighties and pre-Thatcher (just) – even pre-Miss Peelpants (also, just!) – there’s something quite charming about the modest silhouette here – which is really rather hard to equate with the horrors which were to come. These feel more in line with the New Romantic and Goth garments from the 1980s which I feel passionate about and choose to collect (like Sarah Whitworth, Symphony of Shadows etc), than with Yuppies and Dynasty, although you can just as equally see their genesis here.

Photographed by Christa Peters. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmpolitan, February 1979.

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Suit by Wallis. Silk camisole by Tatters. Shoes from Pancaldi.

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Jute tweed suit by Strawberry Studio. Bag by Butler and Wilson. Shoes from Russell & Bromley.

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Cotton cord suit by Howie Diffusion. Camisole from Tatters. Belt by Courtney Reed. Shoes from Pancaldi.

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Three piece suit by Daily Blue. Shirt by Riva. Purse and shoes by Pancaldi.

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Suit by Stephen Marks. Shirt by Pamela Frances. Belt by Courtney Reed. Shoes from Pancaldi.

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Wool crepe suit by Jaeger. Shoes by Pancaldi.

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Suit with the wiest shoulders and narrowest skirt by Strawberry Studio. Suede shoes by Sacha.