Grass-green speckled crepe de chine print smock gathered from a rounded yoke, the skirt gently flared. About £160, Abraham’s crepe de chine. White patent sandals with the narrowest straps, about £27.Earrings and beads of jade green , from a range. All from Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Great Designers World Series: Yves Saint Laurent and the blossoming of the chemise.
Hair by Jean-Louis David.
Model is Marie Helvin.
Photographs taken in the new Yves Saint Laurent Paris Salon on Avenue Marceau
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned from Vogue, 1st March 1975.
Cottage rose Liberty printed silk chiffon, just a ruffle off the shoulders on a band of elastic and a gather from the knee. But how beautiful. About £140. Gold leather sandals, about £27. Green tassel earrings, crystal and pearl beads, from range. All at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Printed silk, mauve and black with white, loose blouse yoked round the neck and tucked into a flared skirt pintucked to the hips, ending below the knees. About £140, Abraham’s crepe de chine. Hoop earrings and pale speckled beads, from range. All at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Yellow vibrations, sun crepe printed with black and green, cut out at shoulders, frilled like a waterfall down tight sleeves; 15 gns. All clothes by Ossie Clark at Quorum, 113 King’s Rd.
Look at summer through new eyes. Ossie Clark sees you in shepherdess smocks of voile, in long crepe dresses, reed-thin red or printed by Celia Birtwell. Pattie Boyd looks at it her way. All at Quorum.
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned from Vogue, June 1969.
I think this editorial might be one of the first I ever scanned, back in even my pre-blog days. I may have posted it on MySpace (don’t judge me, I feel ancient enough as it is). I’ve been meaning to properly rescan for years, but finally the time seemed right. It is the perfect combination of designer, model, photographer and a stunning use of Pre-Raphaelite imagery.
Cloud white voile, left, with apple green and peach, a shepherdess shirt, about £8 14s. 6d, matching skirt, about £10 8s. 6d to order.
Gentle beige smock, below, with crepe yoke, half sleeves above long voile cuffed sleeves; body beige, too, with olive and orange; 142 gns.
Flame red crepe dress, below, wrapped round and tied behind, with dragon fin sleeves, long and slender, a potent mixture of enchantment; 12 gns. Scarf by Celia Birtwell. High collar, £3 5s, from selection at London Docks, Munro Terrace.
The greenest scent of summer—Estee Lauder’s Alliage with hints of marigold, jasmine and muguet, to wear with green chiffon, and Estee Lauder’s new Copper and Bronze Make-up.
Model is Maudie James.
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned from Vogue, June 1973.
Daisy lawn chiffon caped over bandeau bra with shoulder straps, blowing into a herbaceous hem. By Bellville Sassoon. Daisy brooch of diamonds and peridot on one ear, £4,400, at Collingwood. Snake bracelets, diamonds and garnet, £3,205, diamonds and emerald, £850, at Garrard. Emerald and gold ring by Arthur King, £1,360, at Blooms. Carved emerald ring surrounded by two rows of diamonds, £1,250 at Michael Fishberg. Round pin in the hair, left, diamonds and sapphires, emeralds and rubies, £950, Cameo Corner. Pale yellow tights, Mary Quant, 40p, Selfridges. Dior sandals, £24, Charles Jourdan
Charles of the Ritz make-up echoing the dots on Saint Laurent’s soft chiffon halter. New Segur Ritz Mat Foundation over Pink Revenescence Moisture Glow with new Real Red Cheek Pommade Cleargel blusher and Translucent Face Powder. On the eyes, new Moisturizing Eye Shadow Base under Green Celery Eye Shadow Pommade on brow bone and Seagreen Mist Eye Shadow Pommade in socket and over lid; Paper-thin Creative Colour Satin Liner in Forest Green, Chestnut Brown Brow Colour, Black Auto-Lashique Mascara. New Liqui-Frost Tangerine Lipstick and Premiere Peach Liqui-Creme Nail Polish. Hair dotted with Nestle Streaks ‘N Tips Auburn Hair Colour by Gerald at Mod’s Hair, Paris, make-up by Barbara Daly; chiffon by Abraham, earrings by Saint Laurent.
Take browns, oranges, greens and gold, mix them, match them and make them work for you.
Make-up by Barbara Daly.
Hair by Gerald at Mod’s Hair.
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1973.
Estee Lauder make-up teamed with the new bareness of Chloe’s bitter brown top, crossed over the back, wrapped around the waist of a matching pleated crepe skirt. Estee Lauder Soft Cover Compact Make-up in Fresh Cream, Fresh-Air-Pink Face & Cheek Tint, a dusting of Sheer Shell Re-Nutriv Powder. On the eyes, Smoky Apricot and Apricot Chiffon Pressed Eyelid Shadows with new China Blue Eye Glossamer at outer corners, Black/Navy Lustrous Roll-On Mascara. New Iced Sherry Glossamer over Re-Nutriv Rich Rich Lipstick in Classic Sherry, with nails painted in new Classic Sherry Lustrous Nail Lacquer. Make-up by Barbara Daly, hair slicked back and banded with Nestle Streaks ‘N Tips Gold Hair Colour by Gerald of Mod’s Hair, Paris; Pearl drop earrings from The Purple Shop, Chloe dress from Boston 151.
Silk chiffon with shadow lilies in white and iced green, washed over with a few pearly shells. Big full skirt over petticoat, a sash of Edwardian peach satin. Zandra Rhodes , £160, petticoat, £26, at Fortnum & Mason. Opal choker, £210, N. Bloom. Long opaline rope, £12, drop mother-of-pearl earrings, £15, from range, The Purple Shop. Opal/diamond ring, £550, at Andrew Grima. Snakeskin sandals, £29.50, Charles Jourdan. Scent, Vivre by Molyneux. Hair by Michael at Michaeljohn.
Model is Jane Goddard.
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned from Vogue, April 1st 1974.
Quatrefoil layers of silk chiffon in melon, apricot, candy pink, frilling over the arms. By Gina Fratini, £244 , at Selfridges ; Lucienne Phillips ; Diagonal, Guildford and Lucinda Byre, Liverpool. Carnelian and silver gilt ring, £30, silver and gunstone ring, £18.50, Bakelite drop earrings, £3, all from range at The Purple Shop.
Crossover bodice of black silk crepe framed in lipstick red a full Liberty print silk skirt and enormous gathered pockets edged in stripes. By Bill Gibb, about £140, at ZigZag ; Chic of Hampstead ; Vicki, Cobham ; Julie Fitzmaurice, Harrogate. Scarlet high heels, £28 to order, at The Chelsea Cobbler. Pale sheer tights, Charnos. Scent, Audace by Marcel Rochas.
Polyamide georgette rainbow gathered from small brassiere top, one strap going straight over shoulder, the other angled to centre. By John Bates at Jean Varon, £49.95, Fenwick ; Earkers ; Kendal Milne, Manchester ; Campus, Oxford. Green hoop earrings, £2, from range at The Purple Shop. Scent, Fidji by Laroche.
How to have the best of all worlds at once, and be romantically different, dashing and gentle, nostalgic and modern. Never seen before in a contemporary context, the look, above, that is the key to so much that’s arriving in the first few months of the year: the billowy bodice brimming over with collar, the gathered shoulders letting fall sleeves as eloquent as Hamlet’s. Cinch the waist with what used to be a belt, what now can be pearls or bone or Plexi-glass, or soft wrapping cummerbunds as here. All in saffron silk crepe rippling into a richly pleated maxi-length skirt. By Jean Muir, £47 19s. 6d, from the 31 Shop at Harvey Nichols. Gentle glossy hair, waved and caught by a slide of pale coloured pearls, by Leonard. Dreamy Germaine Monteil make-up, by Gordon at Leonard.
This is the moment for evening clothes that feel as delicious as they look… they’re soft voile or fine jersey or crushed muslin, they’re cut out over suntanned backs and arms, they’re crisp cotton printed with cottage curtain flowers, they’re as easy to wear as nightdresses: and some of them are.
Photographed at Lake Windermere and the Beech Hill Hotel, Cartmel Fell.
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned from Vogue, July 1972.
Dress to order at Browns. Hat from Simone Mirman. Choker from Arabesque.
Dress by Pablo and Delia at Browns. Hat by Herbert Johnson. Sandals by Richard Smith at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Clothes by Emmanuelle Khanh. Hat by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Madame Grès’s canary pleated bra and skirt: Triangle bra top, tied with shoestrings at the neck and back, silk jersey skirt finely pleated over a yellow crepe petticoat. Silk organza overdress baring shoulders. Silk jersey by Racine and organza by Veron.
The Madame Grès exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle is still one of my all-time favourites. I can’t quite believe it was ten years ago – and little did I realise how precious international travel would become!
I was drawn to scan this incredible piece by her today, and when I looked at my post from 2011 I realise that it was one of those I photographed. Well, I pretty much photographed them all, but it was one of the chosen ones for my post. And although my tastes and style have changed somewhat since then, I would still count an original Madame Grès as my holiest of holy grails.