Inspirational Editorials: Gentle Reminders

1970s, Bermona, che guevara, Electric Fittings, Essences, Glynn Manson, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, mary farrin, Michael Berkofsky, Snob, Vintage Editorials

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Is anyone else utterly bored with this tedious, freezing weather? I am greatly looking forward to wearing lighter knitwear and bathing my face in warm, watery Spring sunlight – an atmosphere so perfectly captured in these stunning images.

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey, February 1974

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Sweater by Glynn Manson. Blouse from Essences. Cloche by Bermona.

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Aeroplane-patterned cardigan by Glyn Manson. Tie front cardigan from Mary Farrin. Linen skirt from Electric Fittings.

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Left: jumper from Essences. Right: Original 30s floppy jumper from Essences.

Inspirational Editorials: The romantic way you’ll look this year

1960s, british boutique movement, charles jourdan, david bailey, Inspirational Images, jean muir, jean varon, john bates, Liza Spain, Rayne, Vanessa Frye, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Outfit by John Bates for Jean Varon

Outfit by John Bates for Jean Varon

Photographed by David Bailey. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, January 1968

Dress by Jean Muir - shoes by Rayne

Dress by Jean Muir – shoes by Rayne

Dress by Liza Spain at Vanessa Frye - shoes by Charles Jourdan

Dress by Liza Spain at Vanessa Frye – shoes by Charles Jourdan

Midnight Blue: Redux

1970s, british boutique movement, Inspirational Images, john cowan, Kelly LeBrock, midnight blue, Peter Burden, Vintage Adverts

A while ago, I posted a remarkable advert for a shop called ‘Midnight Blue’. Scanned from a copy of Ritz, I had never heard of Midnight Blue before or since. Like many posts, it passed into the archives without much fuss. Until I received a comment the other day from the man behind the shop; Peter Burden. Rather than letting the information disappear (with the original post) into the mists of blog history, I thought I should repost the image with the comment from Peter.

Dear Miss Peelpants,

Great to see this shot aired. Coco Fennell, designer daughter of Theo (with whom I used to throw buns around Meridiana (resto designed by Enzo Appicella) in the early 70s) spotted this and sent it to my daughter Alice, because she thought it might be something to do with me. I’m the geezer in the white leather spider jacket at a shoot we did in 1977 somewhere near Oxford. I started Midnight Blue – jeans for trendy toffs – in 1975. We were open until midnight, and our own brand jeans (mostly Fiorucci rip-offs) had a good following for a while. This ad in RITZ magazine was cropped from a landscape poster. David Litchfield who ran RITZ had a room in our building in the Fulham Road. My own fashion instincts were not especially strong, but I tried to find interesting off-centre designers. All the clothes in this shot (by John Cowan) were by a lovely eccentric woman called Carol Lee who lived in Lincolnshire. I don’t know what’s happened to her and I don’t have a stitch of her stuff left. Of interest in the shot, sitting on my left is 17 year-old Kelly Lebrock, just before Leonard remodelled her hair into a kind of gamine, and Clive Arrowsmith shot her for the front of Vogue (or was it Harpers?) She went to Hollywood and starred in Gene Wilder’s Woman in Red. In the poster but out of this shot is Pandora Stevens (d. of Jocelyn) now Delevigne, mother of Poppy and Cara. (I could email a copy of the poster if you like.)

(One of our first posters was by Bob Carlos-Clarke – his first commercial job I believe – using a technique he’d learned from James Wedge. It’s in one of his early books.)

I moved on from the rag trade, and became a writer. My first novel, RAGS, published by Weidenfeld in 1987, was based on my fashion experiences in the 60s/70s, focussing on a fictional BIBA store. The back cover shot in the Roof Garden was by Jill Kennington, one of the models in Antonioni’s BLOW -UP, which was shot in John Cowan’s studio in Pottery Lane, and which starred David Hemmings, whose autobiography I wrote (2004). My tenuous links with fashion are maintained through my lover – soon to be wife – Nina Hely-Hutchinson, a very knowledgeable and instinctive vintage fashionista. She has a place in Ludlow called 55 Mill Street (qv facebook)

Best Regards,
Peter Burden

Vintage Adverts: Midnight Blue

Charlotte Rampling: Handle with care

1970s, Barry McKinley, celia birtwell, charlotte rampling, cosmopolitan, Deirdre McSharry, harriet, Henry Miura, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Randall Lawrence, stirling cooper
Charlotte Rampling, who has made the headlines by living with two men and "loving them equally" - Randall Lawrence here is one - has recently married the other, Brian Southcombe. But there's no breakup in what she calls "her family". Here Charlotte cuddles up to her Best Man, a champagne girl in a pop outfit. Pepsi top and trousers by Harriet.

Charlotte Rampling, who has made the headlines by living with two men and “loving them equally” – Randall Lawrence here is one – has recently married the other, Brian Southcombe. But there’s no breakup in what she calls “her family”. Here Charlotte cuddles up to her Best Man, a champagne girl in a pop outfit. Pepsi top and trousers by Harriet.

Some stunning photos of the divine Charlotte Rampling, wearing some incredible clothes, scanned from [a slightly crinkly copy of] Cosmopolitan, April 1972. Shame the copy is so utterly, horridly anti-feminist. What gives, Deirdre McSharry? This is Cosmo, after all…

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, April 1972. Photographed by Barry McKinley.

Even the most liberated, jeans-uniformed, free-thinking women will be melting at the seams this summer. She’ll be babying herself in cheesecloth, swathing her shoulders in chiffons, oozing into tight, bright “message” clothes and generally dressing up as if she hadn’t got the vote. If your mind is ticking over OK, what’s the matter with appearing as “woman-as-a-sex-object”? A little female fragility never hurt a good fight yet … If you dress in a fragile manner you’ll be handled with care.

Stirling Cooper blazer and trousers. Wavy Navy shirt by Browns.

Stirling Cooper blazer and trousers. Wavy Navy shirt by Browns.

How to be tatooed while staying a lady. Charlotte has the art in this cheesecloth t-shirt and leather trousers. Tattoos turn a lot of men on - but if not you can just slip this lot off. By Henry Miura.

How to be tattooed while staying a lady. Charlotte has the art in this cheesecloth t-shirt and leather trousers. Tattoos turn a lot of men on – but if not you can just slip this lot off. By Henry Miura.

Cream flannel trousers with straps by Ossie Clark

Cream flannel trousers with straps by Ossie Clark

Blouse printed by Celia Birtwell and designed by Ossie Clark

Blouse printed by Celia Birtwell and designed by Ossie Clark

Inspirational Images: Year of the slippery little dress

1960s, Harpers Bazaar, janice wainwright, jean-loup sieff
Photographed by Jeanloup Sieff

Seen at Jean-Yves Elrhodes’ hair salon in Paris. Tricel jersey dress; Janice Wainwright at Simon Massey, 7 gns at Just Looking.

We can but hope that this salon is pickled in vinegar exactly as shown in this incredible image.

Photographed by Jeanloup Sieff. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers Bazaar, October 1969

Inspirational Images: Party Stuff

19 magazine, 1960s, Inspirational Images, kari ann muller, space age, Tim Street-Porter
"19's Guide to Entertaining"

“19’s Guide to Entertaining”

Photographed by Tim Street-Porter. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19, April 1969

Inspirational Editorials: Socks, smocks and combinations

1970s, celia birtwell, cherry twiss, Foale and Tuffin, Inca, Inspirational Images, jap, marrian mcdonnell, ossie clark, Peter Knapp, telegraph magazine, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Anna Karenina dress in white alpaca by Bellville Sassoon.

Anna Karenina dress in white alpaca by Bellville Sassoon.

Cherry Twiss delivers another brilliant shoot for the Telegraph Magazine, 17th December 1971.

Photographed by Peter Knapp. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

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Combinations in bright ginger wool, and ginger fox bolero designed by Yves Saint Laurent.

Femme fatale suit in embroidered black crepe - clinging skirt, waistcoat and jacket worn with bright yellow silk shirt by Ossie Clark

Femme fatale suit in embroidered black crepe – clinging skirt, waistcoat and jacket worn with bright yellow silk shirt by Ossie Clark

Red fake fur jacket by Annacat

Red fake fur jacket by Annacat

Highwaymancloak from Mariian-McDonnell worn over knitted jodhpur suit

Highwaymancloak from Marrian-McDonnell worn over knitted jodhpur suit

Borg fur kimono-cut jacket and ankle length trousers by Foale and Tuffin

Borg fur kimono-cut jacket and ankle length trousers by Foale and Tuffin

Fake fur jerkin by Jap, worn with combinations by Yves Saint Laurent and Peruvian socks from Inca

Fake fur jerkin by Jap, worn with combinations by Yves Saint Laurent and Peruvian socks from Inca

Red velvet smock by Jap and socks, helmet, armbands, bag and scarf from Inca

Red velvet smock by Jap and socks, helmet, armbands, bag and scarf from Inca

Mild Sauce: Chastity in Focus

1970s, brian duffy, Inspirational Images, janet reger, mild sauce
Photographed by Duffy

Photographed by Duffy

I am now the proud owner of ‘Chastity in Focus’, which was a book produced in 1980 by the Janet Reger underwear company to celebrate the photography of its catalogues. Janet Reger underwear was truly revolutionary at the time, mixing practicality and comfort (the bras are often non-wired and non-padded) with sensual silks and delicious, edible colours. No scratchy red and black nylon lace, no boring white cotton.

Many of the images are by Bob Carlos Clarke, who photographed the catalogue I already own, but I was blown away by some of the Duffy pictures. More to come soon. In the meantime, here’s the book’s dedication:

This book is dedicated to all those who worship the female form in all its gracefulness, who indulge in the joys of its inner sanctum and who are forever drawn by its promise of sensual ecstasy.

I also have some Janet Reger pieces for sale over at Vintage-a-Peel in my ‘loungerie’ section

Inspirational Images: Jaeger Jacket

1970s, david bailey, Inspirational Images, Jaeger, Vogue

jaeger

Photographed by David Bailey. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, March 1972

Inspirational Editorials: Winter Weathering

1970s, biba, chelsea cobbler, Elgee, Graham Hughes, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, just looking, Mary Graeme, Ronnie Stirling, Sheraton, Vintage Editorials, wallis
Coat by

Coat by Elgee, boots by Biba

It seemed appropriate, for some reason…

Photographed by Graham Hughes. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey, December 1974

Coat, skirt, hat and boots by Biba / Coat by Wallis, hat by Biba, boots by Chelsea Cobbler

Coat, skirt, hat and boots by Biba / Coat by Wallis, hat by Biba, boots by Chelsea Cobbler

Coat by

Coat by Stephen Marks, hat by Biba, boots by Mary Graeme / Coat by Elgee, hat by Biba, boots by Chelsea Cobbler

Coat by

Coat by Sheraton from Ronnie Stirling, hat by Fenwicks, boots by Mary Graeme

Coat by

Cape by Elgee, boots by Mary Graeme

Coat by

Coat by Wallis, hat from Fenwick, boots by Chelsea Cobbler / Cape from Just Looking, hat and boots from Biba