José Fonseca is the co-owner of Models One, a busy model agency with top names like Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton on the books.
“As a child, I loved fancy dress and I still like breaking the fashion rules. I go to the office in clothes that can take me to a party afterwards—I just don’t know how to wear casual clothes perhaps because I hate my bottom! I feel more like a woman in long skirts than in pants or jeans. Ever since Ossie Clark made his first mid-calf skirt I have been trailing along—Ossie-style. I wear a lot of black because it always makes me feel fantastic. I like the anonymity of black and the way you can use it as a foil for jewellery and scarves. I went mad on sequins last winter. I bought jackets, berets, even a gold sequin ‘Twenties theatrical outfit—I like to sparkle. I wear a lot of make-up as I feel I can hide behind it. My hair used to be straight but I wanted a change so I had it cut and curled and then permed. But I’m going to grow it out.”
This is a part of a larger feature with ‘real’ Cosmo women putting fashion to the test, but this is definitely my favourite one.
It looks as if England has lost Jane Birkin forever … she is firmly entrenched in Paris with baby Kate, nanny and the lovely Serge Gainsbourg, living in sombre luxury in their newly acquired house. The interior is stark and dramatic, every room is decorated in black and white, with white doors and black marble floors or carpet. The furniture is also black and white—there’s a big black shiny piano in the lounge, and a black mink cover adorns the bed which is raised off the floor on a black perspex dais. Weekends are usually spent at a quiet retreat in the country, making a sharp contrast to the busy social life that they lead during the week. Since Jane landed in France she has never stopped working. Film after film has been completed and the success of the record she made with Serge, which was also written and composed by him, Je T’Aime … Moi Non Plus, has led to an LP also written by Serge. Her life is chaotic and busy, it seems as if the telephone never stops ringing. People phone her every day with offers of interviews and films, the next of which is still a closely guarded secret. It was whilst she was making her first film in France, Slogan, that she met and fell in lovewith Serge, an event which seems to have altered her life but through it all she remains the same—a waif of a girl, tall and lanky, in pullover and jeans, serving tea out of her treasured English teapot. Her wardrobe is noticeably small, consisting mainly of casual clothes like pullovers, T-shirts and jeans; with the occasional gipsy-type dress reserved for the evening and worn with gold chains, loop earrings and gipsy belts. She acquires most of her clothes by chance buying, rarely by intentionally setting out on a spending spree. Usually she just spots something she likes in a shop window and ends up by going in and buying it. In London she shops mainly at Countdown, Foale and Tuffin, and Quorum. She buys her jewellery from the Chelsea Antique Market. In Paris she favours the more trendy designers like Mia and Vicky or Jean Bourquin. Jane is perfectly happy spending hours hunting about in antique shops for interesting little knick-knacks, like the 18th-century doll’s house which she gave to her Serge for Christmas.
The gist of this editorial seems to be that only the tinest breasted ladies can wear the Ossies, but I have to respectfully and fundamentally disagree. The Ossie tunic on the cover was, along with some matching trousers, later chosen as The Fashion Museum‘s Dress of the Year 1969.
Blonde model photographed by Mike Berkofsky.
Brunette model photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, November 1968.
Fluffy frilly blouse by Quorum.
Tunic by Ossie Clark.
Red chiffon blouse by John Craig.
Ruffled black dress by Francis Ford.
Low, plungey-neck dress in red satin by James Moncur.
White satin nightdress by Janet Reger. White silk stockings from Wardrobe. Gold leather shoes from Russell and Bromley.
Christmas is the time for sheer, unashamed luxury – and this lingerie is the very ultimate. Set the mood yourself – they’re so beautiful to be caught in unawares; accidentally on purpose, of course!
Photographed by Vivienne Lynn and Mike Berkofsky.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, December 1976
If anyone from Janet Reger ever reads my blog, please listen to my plea:
Your underwear in the Seventies was pure and utter perfection. Nothing you do now comes within a mile of it. I understand the need to conform to the current styles in underwear (and don’t even get me started on those…) but I can promise you that a range of archive pieces – in silk – would be a success. The cut and construction of your balcony bras leaves Gossard’s Wonderbra in the shade for cleavage, and the unpadded silk triangle bras are more than just triangles – they are unequalled in construction and support. But I’m sick of trying to find more vintage in my size. Other brands embrace their history with archive ranges, even those who don’t have such an impressive archive, so why not you?
Pink kimono with Crane print from Retro. Black net pants by Janet Reger. Black silk stockings from Wardrobe. Black stilettoes from Sacha.
Bra and pants from Fifth Avenue. Nightdress from Janet Reger. Stockings from Wardrobe.
Negligee from Retro. French knickers from Janet Reger. Stockings from Wardrobe. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.
Hat by Edward Mann. Red and cream jacket by Lee Bender for Bus Stop
Mombasa, Kenya. A Beautiful, private beach. Warm, too. Ideal for sunbathing and swimming in the raw. But few of us are that lucky! We have to make do with crowded beaches and need a cover-up – like a one-piece. Difficult to be sexy? Not really, with these beautiful fabrics, beautiful shapes. These pages, shot in Kenya, prove our point. The one-piece does give you lots of man-appeal – and freedom. Beachrobes can be sexy, too. In fact, the ones we found are a definite plus! So check out your wardrobe – and welcome summer. This can be your year to add originality to those busy beaches.
Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, June 1973
Swimsuits by Wiki at Bellino. Hats from Badges and Equipment.
Blue and white swimsuits from Dorothy Perkins. White hat by Edward Mann. Sailing hat from Herbert Johnson.
Hat from Badges and Equipment. Cream and peach striped top and matching skirt from Biba.
Halter neck and matching mini skirt by Laetitia from Browns
Swimsuits by Wiki at Bellino. Denim hat at Herbert Johnson. Beige coton hat by Edward Mann.
Is anyone else utterly bored with this tedious, freezing weather? I am greatly looking forward to wearing lighter knitwear and bathing my face in warm, watery Spring sunlight – an atmosphere so perfectly captured in these stunning images.
Photographed by Michael Berkofsky. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey, February 1974
Sweater by Glynn Manson. Blouse from Essences. Cloche by Bermona.
Aeroplane-patterned cardigan by Glyn Manson. Tie front cardigan from Mary Farrin. Linen skirt from Electric Fittings.
Left: jumper from Essences. Right: Original 30s floppy jumper from Essences.
One of my favourite fashion spreads ever, photographed by Mike Berkofsky (I always seem to love his work…) for Honey magazine, September 1974. Clothes by Quorum, a rare mention of Marie France in the second image, plus some vintage pieces. You can’t possibly be a femme fatale without some slinky vintage clothes in your closet…