. . . or how to wear furs this winter without hurting your pet’s feelings.
There is nothing, absolute nothing quite like wrapping yourself in fur. As a sensuous experience, it is in the same class as a new love, old champagne or fresh truffles. But even the most hedonistic of women are relieved that the threatened species are no longer imported. Snow leopards, tigers and other cats can go their own way and sensibly sybaritic female will look for furs that are farmed, such as fox and mink. This winter, too, the fakes are so wayout and wildly coloured that only a girl without a heart could resist their charms, albeit synthetic. Perhaps that’s why the fur trade have taken the hint and dipped their favourite fox pelts in the dye pot, Furrier Maxwell Croft offers his explanation of the female urge to wear and the male urge to bestow furs: “For many men it is a primitive desire to see his woman in furs.”. Very nice,too.
Plenty to scoff at the end of the copy there, but oh goodness the clothes – the clothes! And the glorious photography of Alice Springs, whose work doesn’t turn up nearly enough for my liking.
There is a licence to touch all the clothes on these pages. There is not a single trad, scratchy, thornproof tweed among any of the frankly tactile silks, angoras and flannels of autumn. Jerseys and pearls and sensible shoes were once the uniform of the WI. Now, (well) kept ladies whose fingers smell of “Cabochard” rather than cabbage, are pressing their flannel bags, having their pearls restrung and are wearing them with shirts so unbuttoned they could catch pneumonia – and heels high enough to rise above the muddiest farmyard. They are taking to pleated kilts, and cashmere sweaters so tight they’d enliven the dullest game of backgammon. Dinner dresses are back in style, and I do mean back down as far as you can go. Properly and provocatively dressed, a weekend in the country might be more fun than you think.
Hair arranged for all pictures by Carl of Molton Brown.
Oh to be out of England now that April’s here, and whether you are planning on Majorca, the far-flung Bahamas or the Isle of Wight this year, now is the best time to shop for holiday clothes. And having just stepped out of a QANTAS jet that took Cosmo island-hopping via Bermuda to the Bahamas, I have a slight tan and a strong feeling that summer’s fashions will be as refreshing, bittersweet and highly coloured as that tropical drink, Planter’s Punch.
Oh to be anywhere but home, quite frankly. I shall have to recreate these styles on the balcony and dream of even going as far as the Isle of Wight…
All jewellery by Adrien Mann. Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.
In the words of Noel Coward, every girl ought to be able to say the morning after, “I’ve been to a mah-vellous party.” A little champagne does not go amiss, but this winter the clothes alone will put a gleam in your eye. There are enough sequins, crystal beads and glittering fabrics to guarantee you are the star attraction. To clinch the deal, I’ve asked some of the most stunning party girls around to give their definition of what constitutes a marvellous party and to put the most dazzling party frocks to the test…
Some men may wince at the thought of wearing anything more flash than an Alfa Romeo watch. And some girls will weep at the prospect of spending any of their salary on him. But there’s no doubt that a good deal of gilt-edged swopping is going on among the sexes. And I don’t mean that trad plain gold band. Much more interesting is the trend for loving couples to buy each other jewellery that they both can wear. It began a few years ago with gilt and elephant-hair rings that the likes of Twiggy and Justin used to sport. Then the Together People began exchanging chunky under-water watches and Cartier’s gold “love” bangles. Very simple, very expensive and very permanent because they are fastened with a screwdriver. Now that even jet-setters are uniformed like Steve McQueen in blue jeans, the latest swop-about jewellery is suitably chunky and shiny as a Harley-Davidson bike—see above: Peter Hinwood in a silver chain and bracelet from Andre Bogaert and ivory tusks from Butler and Wilson. The ear-ring is his own. Janni Goss is weighed down with two chromium bangles by Gijis Bakker, a stainless-steel belt by Emanuel Raft and a silver pendant by Helga Zahn. All one-offs and available at the Electrum Gallery, where customers include Julie Christie and Fenella Fielding. The girls order for themselves and their fellas. Gals and guys who prefer their jewellery on the frankly flash side—and they include Yoko and John Lennon—apply to Mick Milligan who designs the glitter stuff, worn by Barbara Trentham. and Gary Myers, below. Mick designs with his tongue in his cheek, like the BLANG! pins and the Rolls-Royce radiator badge, made in solid silver for Leonard, the London hairdresser, which Leonard’s wife also borrows. For females only: the “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” necklet—naturally 100 per cent fake stones—which Barbara wears with a fistful of chrome rings. From a fiver each, you can tell Mick’s loot is more than a joke. Meanwhile he is laughing all the way to the bank, so BLANG! to you. Lurex knit is by Christopher McDonnell.
Photographed by Norman Eales. Text by Deirdre McSharry.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, March 1972.
“Paris is different, it is full of people in search of one another,” says Louise. “Any girl is sexy when she’s in love,” says Christiana. Pink tank top and red skirt both by Sonia Rykiel at Browns. Striped sweater by Kenzo at Jap.
Those famous twenty-five million Frenchmen can’t be wrong. They fancy French girls a lot (a recent L’Express opinion poll revealed that the average Frenchman makes love to 11.8 women in his life). What is it about French girls that makes them so special? They aren’t so pretty as most English girls, but they try harder. They smell sexier, exude more confience, put themselves together better. Think of Bardot, Anouk Aimee, Catherine Deneuve. For all the GB girls who’d like to look like BB and AA the fashion buyers flock to Paris in search of the real “style francais”: sweaters for a movie star profile, trousers to give the bottom a lift, dresses that pay for their dinner in chic. A French label gives cachet although the price tag is not cheap. But it’s worth every penny — when he’s in the mood for l’amour. Just add Beaujolais and serve. We like Paris fashion when it sizzles … this little lot almost burns the pages and you can buy them all here.
Three Paris types. Two blondes and a tough in black leather. Is France all Gauloises and love in the afternoon? Louise, Roberto and Christiana wear the new clothes and give us their views.
Photographed by Alice Springs.
Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, February 1973
“Love is an art in France,” says Christiana. “We live it.” Roberto comments: “French girls look like they are going to be dynamite, but they are not.” Blue pleated dress by Cacharel.
“French girls rely on their personality not on their beauty,” says Louise. “I don’t dig that coquette bit,” retorts Roberto. Dotted red dress by Christian Aujard.
“How old am I? I never know. Age is not important here,” says Christiana. Says Roberto: “I’ve had a dozen French girl friends. After the third they were all alike.” Vanilla shirt suit in flannel and green shirt by Cacharel.
“He’s a shade younger than I am, but he’s determined to close the generation gap. Luckily I’m not in the least bit ticklish”.
Your second oyster tasted much nicer than the first. The second time you drank champagne the bubbles did not make you sneeze… As Jackie Collins, the writing Collins sister puts it: “The second marriage is definitely more fun. The first time you marry very young; the next time you know what you are involving yourself in.” Joan, the actress Collins adds: “In my case it’s the third time around. And that’s better still. ” Alice Pollock, the designer, is contemplating taking the plunge again – hence this Second Time Around fashion – “It’s cool to marry again, providing you do it well. ” Paulene Stone, the beautiful redhaired model who married Laurence Harvey in the New Year – and after a long courtship – said: “The second marriage? Oh, it’s a lovely feeling. I was so glad when it finally happened.” (Honest lady!) As is Mr Harvey who describes re-marriage as: “The triumph of hope over experience.” And to all the hopeful ladies who are contemplating love or marriage for the second time, these beautifully experienced clothes are dedicated.
All clothes by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Fashion by Deirdre McSharry. Photographed by Norman Eales. Modelled by Zazie.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, May 1973.
“It’s so restful spending the evening with a man you know well. I just let him get on with his Proust.” Shoes by City Lights
“Well we got to Caxton Hall in time. I picked him up in my Porsche just in case.” Hat by Sarah Frearson. Pendant from L’Odeon.
Inset Above: “Who says brides don’t wear black?” / Above: “Second honeymoons are seriously underrated. I haven’t had so much fun since I saw Private Lives.” Suspender belt by Janet Reger. Shoes from Walter Steiger. His outfit at Simpsons.
Charlotte Rampling, who has made the headlines by living with two men and “loving them equally” – Randall Lawrence here is one – has recently married the other, Brian Southcombe. But there’s no breakup in what she calls “her family”. Here Charlotte cuddles up to her Best Man, a champagne girl in a pop outfit. Pepsi top and trousers by Harriet.
Some stunning photos of the divine Charlotte Rampling, wearing some incredible clothes, scanned from [a slightly crinkly copy of] Cosmopolitan, April 1972. Shame the copy is so utterly, horridly anti-feminist. What gives, Deirdre McSharry? This is Cosmo, after all…
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, April 1972. Photographed by Barry McKinley.
Even the most liberated, jeans-uniformed, free-thinking women will be melting at the seams this summer. She’ll be babying herself in cheesecloth, swathing her shoulders in chiffons, oozing into tight, bright “message” clothes and generally dressing up as if she hadn’t got the vote. If your mind is ticking over OK, what’s the matter with appearing as “woman-as-a-sex-object”? A little female fragility never hurt a good fight yet … If you dress in a fragile manner you’ll be handled with care.
Stirling Cooper blazer and trousers. Wavy Navy shirt by Browns.
How to be tattooed while staying a lady. Charlotte has the art in this cheesecloth t-shirt and leather trousers. Tattoos turn a lot of men on – but if not you can just slip this lot off. By Henry Miura.
Cream flannel trousers with straps by Ossie Clark
Blouse printed by Celia Birtwell and designed by Ossie Clark
Barbara wears halter top and pleated skirt by Mary Quant, £23 for the rigout, and shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. He wears intarsia sweater by Ballantyne.
Nice girls are turning a cold shoulder on some of the best looking men around. Perfectly enchanting girls, like Twiggy, who flashes her famous shoulder blades at Christopher Gable through her sleeveless, backless The Boy Friend costumes. And who can forget Lauren Bacall and lngrid Bergman acting with their backs turned on Bogie in all those Late Late Show films. Now you can make some of the best exit lines in the backless—and fairly frontless—cIothes previewed here. lt’s clear that fashion is on the side of the female female in clothes that show off a nice warm back and allow plenty of MANoeuvring room. Putting the Back-to-Basics through their paces in many of the pictures are Barbara Trentham and Gary Myers, a couple of Cosmo people to watch. Blonde, brainy Barbara with the 1,000-watt smile will soon be seen in her first film, opposite Shirley MacLaine. called, if you can believe it, The Possession of Joel Delaney, and Aussie Gary is tall, dark and one of television’s busiest tough guys. Together they show that a cold shoulder never turned a good man off…
Scanned from the very first UK edition of Cosmopolitan, March 1972. Photographs by Norman Eales.
Paulene wears chamois leather blouse and pleated skirt by Jean Muir, £46 and £31.50
Paulene Stone in a robe from Browns, £20
Barbara wears dress by Early Bird, £7. Gary’s sweater is by Harold Ingram, £3.30
Barbara wears dress by Mary Quant, £15
Barbara wears strappy crepe dress by Medusa, £9.95
Barbara wears dress by Tsaritsa, £29. Shoes by Mary Quant.
When both ladies turn up in identical tank tops scooped low, a man scarcely knows where to put his eyes. Dark Janni and tawny Kari-Anne [sic] fill out backless sweaters by Stirling Cooper, £2.95. Janni’s red jersey trousers are £9.60, also by Stirling Cooper. Yellow satin jeans by Medusa, £17.91.
Always happy to bring you another ‘lost’ shoot by the late, great Brian Duffy. Since Duffy destroyed his own archive, we are left to piece together a career from what was published in magazines or retained in other people’s archives. I try to scan and share whenever I can… I covet both Alice Pollock pieces in this spread, and love the man’s style. Definitely how all men should dress, always.
Photographed by Duffy. Fashion by Deirdre McSharry. Modelled by Greta Norris and Cyril Hartman.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, July 1972.
As an aside, apologies for sporadic blogging at the moment. There are a few changes afoot and it is distracting me a little from my usual magazine scouring and scanning. I will tell you when everything, hopefully, falls into place in the next few weeks.
Silk dress by Suliman, crepe shirt by Deborah and Clare.
Jacket by Alice Pollock, shoes by Sacha
Her skirt by Miss Mouse, blouse and scarf at Lucienne Phillips. His shirt by Lord John.
His and hers Harold Ingram sweaters
Her dress by Clobber, hat by Diane Logan and shoes by Samm.
Her top by Crochetta, trousers by Gordon Deighton. His sweater by Harold Ingram and trousers by Tom Gilbey.
T-shirt by Escalade. Hat from Bus Stop
Blue silk ‘intimate’ dress by Alice Pollock with bird print by Frances Ronaldson. He wears an Indian shirt from Crocodile.