Smartie Pants

1970s, antony price, british boutique movement, bus stop, celia birtwell, christian dior, clobber, Diana Crawshaw, hotpants, mary quant, mr freedom, ossie clark, Patrick Russell, ritva, stirling cooper, telegraph magazine, universal witness, yves saint laurent
Smartie Pants

Shorts have been with us for some time now – “hot pants” making even starlets front page news – but the big question was whether they were here to stay, or were just a gimmick. Increasing sales seem to show that they are really catching on, and now the big stores are stocking them. For those with the youth and legs to enjoy them, we bring the very latest designs.

Photographed by Patrick Russell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine, April 1971
Outfit by Anthony for Stirling Cooper. All menswear by YSL.

Outfit by Antony for Stirling Cooper. All menswear by YSL.

Shorts and top by Bus Stop. Shirt by Toto from Crowthers

Shorts and top by Bus Stop. Shirt by Toto from Crowthers

Outfit by Diana Crawshaw for Mr Freedom

Outfit by Diana Crawshaw for Mr Freedom

Top and scarf by Ossie Clark from Quorum. Shorts by Clobber

Top and scarf by Ossie Clark from Quorum. Shorts by Clobber

Outfit on left by Diorling at Christian Dior. Outfit on right by Sheilagh Blagden at Stirling Cooper

Outfit on left by Diorling at Christian Dior. Outfit on right by Sheilagh Blagden at Stirling Cooper

Outfit on left by Ritva. Outfit on right by Paul Reeves for Universal Witness.

Outfit on left by Ritva. Outfit on right by Paul Reeves for Universal Witness.

 

The men behind the frocks

1950s, digby morton, hardy amies, john cavanagh, john french, victor stiebel

John Cavanagh

Ahhhh, so I didn’t get a nomination for the Cosmo blog awards. I didn’t think I would, but I do wish that these lists would incorporate blogs with a bit more personality beyond whatever the PR companies are sending them this week. In case anyone objects to my slightly waspish tone, there is no one on the fashion list who is also on my reading list. Or who follows me, that I know of. Or who I’ve ever heard of. And I am prone to sweeping generalisations when I choose. My blog, my rules.

Me, I acquire paper cuts from 32-year-old fashion reference books just so I can bring you weird and wonderful photos of weird and wonderful clothes and people. I guess I’m a bit niche, which is totally fine by me. And I rarely show my face.

Other people who didn’t have much of a public face were designers of the past. Particularly the male ones who wouldn’t have looked much good in their own designs, unlike a lot of female designers. Before the cult of celebrity started to infect fashion designers, the likes of Hardy Amies and Victor Stiebel were happy to let their frocks do the talking. No eyeliner, eye-patches or black lace fans for them, oh no.

So it’s rather delightful when you come across a little feature such as this one, from Prudence Glynn’s In Fashion book from 1978. Three of the photos are by John French, and the Digby Morton is thrown in for good measure. I’m always fascinated to see the face behind the frocks; it can be rather astonishing to test out your own preconceptions.

Hardy Amies

Victor Stiebel

Digby Morton

Inspirational Images: Pat Cleveland as Josephine Baker

alan kaplan, Inspirational Images, josephine baker, pat cleveland, seventies fashion, Vogue

By Alan Kaplan for Italian Vogue, late Seventies

Psssst…..

autumn, barry lategan, granny takes a trip, Inspirational Images, Make-up, mr freedom, Ms Peelpants' rants, platforms, seventies fashion, suede, Vogue
Vogue. September 1970

…is it wrong to secretly be longing for it to be autumn?

Perhaps I bore too easily. More likely, it’s because I can’t bear being too hot. And, also, because I bore easily. I love my summer dresses, and there’s nothing quite like being able to leave the house without a jacket, cardigan and sometimes even sans shawl. But that very human tendency to want what you can’t have means that I start looking longingly at my long-sleeved crepe, velvet and polyester dresses, all taking a well-earned summer holiday. I keep having to bare my legs to the world. I miss tights! I also long to come out the other side of ‘ironing season’. Because I’m extremely pernickety and I insist on ironing all my cotton dresses, so that is rather my own fault. But still…

It also means that, gripped by the blindingly bad mood of a Really Bad Week (last week), I somehow wander into the shops and somehow buy the pair of buckled suede purple platforms I’ve been coveting since they appeared in store in June (when I was, officially, looking for a pretty pair of sandals for my holiday). Somehow I justify this by the fact that I waited three weeks, and that they might disappear by a more appropriate buying time. It’s less ridiculous to buy them in July than in June. I’ve had my summer holiday, ergo I can start thinking about an autumn getaway and the pretty suede shoes I might need for that. Ahem.

On a more practical, businesslike level, it also means I am gripped by confusion on what to list over at Vintage-a-Peel. Summer is pretty much silly season for vintage. No one is around and no one is really buying summer stuff once mid-July hits. At least, that’s always been the received wisdom. But, as a business, I cannot take a school holiday-length break from the world and come back in September with all my velvets and crepes. So I have to keep going.

High Street and designer shops are horribly clever. They know, that you know, that they will ensure that the most covetable pieces are going to sell out before you are ready. And so you pounce, and they can actually make money in hot and stinky August (after they’ve made their money in hot and stinky July when you’re throwing money at their summer sales. Often featuring items which have been in the summer sales for three years running as well).

I still haven’t come to any conclusion about this, in case you were wondering whether I had discovered the answer, I am just musing aloud. But, in case anyone feels the same way, I just wanted to make my confession. I’m really looking forward to the autumn.

Outfit by Bernshaw. Suede hat by Herbert Johnson. Shoes uncredited.


Outfit by Anji. Vest by Mr Freedom. Amazing shoes uncredited.


Outfit by Firstaway. Boots by Granny Takes a Trip. Vest by Mr Freedom.


Outfit by Reldan. Boots by Granny Takes a Trip


Outfit by Polly Peck. Boots by Noddy’s Nipple in The Kensington Market.

[not so crazy about this outfit, but I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to credit those boots to the delightfully named ‘Noddy’s Nipple’]

Advertisement feature from Vogue for Acrilan fabrics by various manufacturers. Make-up by Max Factor and photos by Barry Lategan.

Miss Peelpants goes continental…

christian dior, david bailey, florence, Inspirational Images, italy, jean varon, john bates, polly peck, susan small, Vogue
John Bates for Jean Varon


I can’t quite believe it. My first proper holiday in three years! And it’s somewhere I’ve dreamt of going for a painfully long time. I studied A Room With a View for English A-Level, and this did nothing but exacerbate my already quite intense passion for Italy. I went to the Lakes a long five years back, but my soul still desires Florence.

I’m trying not to get TOO excited. But it’s not working. I have ironed my loveliest sundresses and prepared a few Sixties evening minis, and I’m just praying for ash clouds and strikes to stay WELL away from us and our well-earned break. It’s also timed for my birthday, and I can’t think of a better way to spend it.

A few weeks back, I spotted this amazing spread in Vogue from 1967. Bailey on location, which instantly makes Bailey a lot better than usual. And the clothes are gorgeous (particularly the Varon). But the most important aspect is the Florentine backdrop.

I. Can’t. Wait.

p.s Obviously this means I can’t post items and deal with sales until I return on Tuesday. But it’s still first come, first served for sales, so you can still buy if anything tickles your fancy over on the website.

Susan Small

Londonus

Susan Small

Christian Dior London

Susan Small

Polly Peck

Inspirational Images: Shrimpton by Lichfield

1970s, Inspirational Images, jean shrimpton, patrick lichfield

Patrick Lichfield, 1970

I seem to have a fascination for tree-climbing in fancy frocks. It was one of the main reasons I fell for Emma Peel back when I first saw You Have Just Been Murdered (she shins up a tree in a feather trimmed mini dress and silver shoes). Of course, I would never run the risk of doing such a thing myself (Think of the snags. And I’m so clumsy I’d definitely fall and break my neck trying to rescue a dress from being skewered by a branch!) but it’s always such a captivating thought…

Patrick Lichfield, 1970

Farewell Duffy

brian duffy, celia birtwell, ossie clark, quorum, telegraph magazine, thea porter
Both dresses by Sheridan Barnett for Quorum

Both dresses by Sheridan Barnett for Quorum

Brian Duffy, 15 June 1933 – 31 May 2010

Thank you for making the world more beautiful. Photos by Duffy for The Daily Telegraph Magazine, September 1973.

Clothes by Jane Cattlin

Clothes by Jane Cattlin

 

Left: Thea Porter, Right: Missoni

Left: Thea Porter, Right: Missoni

Left: Ossie Clark, Right: Yves Saint Laurent

Left: Ossie Clark, Right: Yves Saint Laurent

Left: Jean Muir, Right: Sheridan Barnett

Left: Jean Muir, Right: Sheridan Barnett

James Wedge’s Painted Ladies

19 magazine, Inspirational Images, james wedge, toulouse lautrec

I took a gamble on a copy of James Wedge’s Painted Ladies book. Produced in 1988, it is ostensibly a guide to how Wedge created many of his best images using some extraordinary hand-colouring techniques and bizarre manipulation.

The glorious side-effect is that it is also filled with these lush images. Many of which I haven’t seen before, and some of which were always a bugger to try to scan in from a weirdly sized copy of 19 magazine, or somesuch. I’m sure, over time, I will post more. But I thought I would give you a little taster in this amazing Victorian-themed shoot for 19. Unfortunately, the book isn’t great about giving dates so if anyone knows the issue then please let me know.

I can’t even begin to tell you how bored I am with the whole burlesque/pin-up hoo-ha these days. I’m sure some people do it brilliantly, in fact I know they do, but it’s all become so mainstream and yawnworthy. I can’t really see how jiggling your boobs around in feathers and tassles is particularly superior to jiggling your boobs around a pole, as I’m constantly being told. A stripper is a stripper; a glamour model is a glamour model. But maybe I’m just a cynic? People can do whatever the hell they like and, so long as they’re not hurting anyone, I really couldn’t care less. I just wish it wasn’t everywhere, and that it didn’t seem to automatically correlate with interestingness.

So many times I’ve gone to post amazing pin-up-style photoshoots from the likes of Nova or the Telegraph Magazine, but it’s all so commonplace these days I simply can’t be bothered. However, I don’t need any excuse to post delicious early-Seventies photos by James Wedge, inspired by Toulouse Lautrec. Who happens to be one of my favourite artists and biggest inspirations, and whose grubby, ramshackle, louche ladies are a darn sight more interesting than most of what we’re presented with these days.

James Wedge really does deserve some kind of retrospective exhibition and big glossy book. Would somebody please sort this out some time soon? Please? Thank you….

p.s If you have an issue with nipples, then you might want to avert your eyes and come back tomorrow. I happen to be fascinated by nipples and particularly what James Wedge seems to do with them…




Sud You!

1970s, hand tinting, Inspirational Images, james wedge

No, I’m not being rude, it’s the actual title of the article which accompanied this amazing photo by the endlessly fabulous James Wedge (19 Magazine, March 1974). I love his photos. I love his hats (remind me to photograph mine some day…). I love his look.

It’s quite like his hand-tinted photo which has always been one of my favourite images in the Marnie Fogg Boutique book. Amazing!

There’s got to be a good caption competition here…

david bailey
It’s been a few years since Bailey saw Jean Shrimpton…


Or something even more lousy amusing than that. If you can imagine it. Any takers?

Dear old grumpy Bailey, he amuses me greatly.