Models

Who knows her face better than a model?

1970s, beauty, celia birtwell, Hair and make-up, Make-up, maudie james, ossie clark, patrick hunt, Patrick Hunt, quorum, Vogue

And who better than Maudie James, demonstrating here, exactly how she shapes and colours her face:


1 Starting with shining clean skin (thanks to Pond’s Cold Cream), she dabs on Mary Quant’s Skin Drink and blends it in.


2 Max Factor’s Nouveau Beige Pan Stick goes on with a small damp sponge giving a smooth ‘finish, covering tiny blemishes.

3 Several coats of Boots No 7 Black Block Mascara intensifies but does not cake upper and lower lashes.

4 Blackened lashes are curved to sweep up and out with eyelash curlers (45p from Boots).

5 Each eyelash is separated to look natural.

6 Eyelids coloured with Caran d’Ache purple pencils (Nos 110 and 120) blended up to the brows.

7 Short feathery lines drawn with Caran d’Ache pencil (No 80) outline the cheekbones.

8 And are then blended in towards the nose to make a soft rose-pink blush.

9 Caran d’Ache pencil (No 80) outlines then fills the lips with colour.

10 Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream glossed over lips with a brush—for protection and shine.

11 Biba’s Mascara Brush neatens the eyebrows.

12 The look: face dusted with Boots No 7 Nearly Natural compact Powder; hair: shining with Wella’s Shampoo and Lemon Creme Rinse.

Photographed by Patrick Hunt.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.

Dress: brilliant silk chiffon by Ossie Clark for Quorum, print by Celia Birtwell, £45, from new Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, S.W.3; Just Looking, Knightsbridge, S.W.1; Hedgehog, 135 Fulham Road, S.W.7.

Made to measure by Edward Sexton for Esther De Deo

1970s, Edward Sexton, Esther DeDeo, menswear, Tommy Nutter, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
Made to measure by Edward Sexton for Esther De Deo at Nutters (Tommy Nutter). In oyster gabardine.
Shirt and stock, to measure, by H. W. Brettell.
Hair by Ann at Stafford & Frieda.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1977.

Cosmic Collection

1970s, Clare Park, hair, Hair and make-up, james wedge, Make-up, Princess Leia, Star Wars, Vintage Adverts, Vogue, yardley

Yardley here, perfectly demonstrating the far reaching influence of Star Wars on the late Seventies with the not-so-subtle use of a Princess Leia-esque model.

Model is Clare Park.

Photographed by James Wedge.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1978.

Coats of Many Colours

1970s, Afghanistan, Boutiques, Eva Sereny, Inspirational Images, Margaret Kimber, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, Shakira Caine, Stock, Vintage Editorials

The fabrics, the hand embroideries, the ornate but cheap jewels and the colourful clothes which seem so exotic in Western eyes are accepted as ordinary and everyday in Afghanistan; but it takes sophisticated know-how to appreciate and capitalise on the exquisite workmanship involved. Their shaggy coats, sold over here by the thousand, are bargains, especially when you consider how much warm cloth coats cost nowadays, and even though the Afghans have still to perfect a way of treating the skins to stop them smelling. They undersell their goods, having little idea of what they are fetching overseas, and they have no set sizing system. In other words, to make their fashion industry commercially viable it needs organisation and expertise. Margaret Kimber, an English girl who recently spent 18 months in Kabul, proved in a small way that this can be done. She turned her home into a workshop, bought bales of fabric, employed local labour to make up her designs and returned with the clothes shown on these pages. We photographed them in Paris on Shakira Caine, a flawless Indian beauty from Guyana, a former Miss World contestant now married to actor Michael Caine. A model before her marriage, she was the sexy girl in the television coffee-bean ad. A selection of these dresses, all different, ranging in price from £28 to £40, as well as jewellery (examples of these are shown on the cover), are available from Stock, 236 Fulham Road, London SW10, and at 131 High Holborn, WC1. Some of them are shown on these pages. The cushions and wall-hangings are from Mohanjeet, 21 Rue Saint-Sulpice, Paris 6.

By Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, 17th March 1974.

A Legacy of Lace

1970s, art deco, Deco Inspired, Inspirational Images, janet reger, Linda Dagenais, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, Sarah Moon, sunday times magazine, Vintage Editorials
Long beige slip in lace and crepe, £19.50; soft-lined crepe bra, £5.40.

It is not often that they auction old knickers at Christies, but earlier this year the celebrated wardrobe of Heather Firbank went under the hammer, and an integral part of the collection was her exquisite underwear. Heather Firbank, sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank, was famous for her unique, occasionally eccentric clothes, and though most of them now belong to the Victoria and Albert Museum, the highest bid for the underclothes came from the lingerie manufacturer Janet Reger and her husband Peter. They made copies of the pieces they bought, and tomorrow they will be on sale from Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W.2, and by mail order. They are expensive, certainly, but unfortunately the luxury of Twenties underwear no longer comes at Twenties prices. All accessories are from Maria Cavallo‘s shop Dignetts, at Antiquarius, King’s Road, London S.W.3.

Model is Linda Dagenais.

Words and styling by Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Sarah Moon.

Scanned from Sunday Times Magazine, November 17th 1974.

Oyster satin cami-slip, £25.00.
Black lace slip, £19-50; black lace camisole top, £28.50
Original cami-knickers from Heather Firbank collection (also shown on cover). The seam-for-seam copy costs £19-50.

Unseamly tights

1970s, Barbara Miller, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, pretty polly, Random Ossies in Adverts, Vintage Adverts

Another in my irregular series of random Ossie Clark sightings in adverts. This time a wrap around Cuddly dress, made from a crinkle pleated crepe with satin trim.

I think the model is Barbara Miller.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, March 1975.

Just A Little Something I Ran Up Myself…

1970s, Ace, bill gibb, Clio Goldsmith, cosmopolitan, Gamba, Inspirational Images, Jane Cattlin, liberty, liberty's, manolo blahnik, Midas, Peter Golding, Russell & Bromley, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, Terence Donovan, Vintage Editorials, Wendy Dagworthy, Yuki, yvonne gold, zandra rhodes, zapata
DESIGNED BY YUKI . . . and typical of the elegant raciness that Yuki breathes into everything he creates, a sultry bloomer dress to wear if you dare and if you’ve got the shape. Make it from a 1.5 metre square of cotton jersey. Simply cut two holes for your legs in the centre, step inside and tie the corners on your shoulders. Fake lily, Novelty Imports. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.

. . . with the aid of Yuki, Sheilagh Brown, Wendy Dagworthy, Sheridan Barnett, Bill Gibb, Jane Cattlin, Zandra Rhodes and Peter Golding, eight top designers who were each persuaded to whip up a creation for when you still haven’t got a thing to wear.

Hair by Harambee, 19 Avery Row, London W1.

Make-up by Yvonne Gold.

Persian carpets from Liberty.

I think one of the models is Clio Goldsmith.

Photographed by Terence Donovan.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1978.

DESIGNED BY SHEILAGH BROWN … who goes the whole way with glamour, whipping silk and lace and ribbons into deliciously pretty confections. Here she transforms a 2.25 metre length of soft lace into beautiful balloon trousers gathered twice on ribbon drawstrings. A square of silk crepe de Chine, slashed in the middle for a sliding neckline, ties at the front with wide black satin ribbon. Silver sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY WENDY DAGWORTHY … the designer who makes sporty Viyella and rough tweeds look soft. Sunray-pleated cotton—hunt for the ready-pleated kind—is cut to make a piecrust collar that’s prettily tied with trailing velvet ribbon, on a poncho top belted like a tunic over a matching skirt. The skirt is one width of fabric gathered on a cord at the waist. Fringe the edges of toning check fabric to make the shawl. Boots, £44.99, Russell & Bromley.
DESIGNED BY SHERIDAN BARNETT who knows how to put together the luxury of velvet and lace in the new romantic style. Sheridan Barnett’s big cosy chasuble is made by folding in half a 2.5 metre length of velvet and cutting a straight line in the centre for the neckline. Tuck under the sides and wrap. closed at the waist with glossy black moire. Knot a fichu of black lace at your throat. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Patent ballet pumps, £11.50, Gamba.
DESIGNED BY BILL GIBB . . . who creates like no other designer. Here’s a little numero (main picture) from Bill’s sketch-pad that’s four straight pieces of jersey and need be only as expensive as the fabric you choose. Cut four 120 X 90cm oblongs of fabric—Bill picked soft ice-cream shades in Qiana jersey. Overlock the edges and run a ribbon drawstring through one short end of each piece. Two oblongs gathered up and tied on each shoulder make the back and front of the dress. The remaining two pieces, gathered in tightly to wrists and draped over your shoulders, make a floaty jacket that can be knotted back and front. Soft gold leather straps are Bill Gibb’s newest accessory. Gold sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY JANE CATTLIN Sew one short seam in an oval of silky jersey and you’ll have added a glamorous Jane Cattlin creation to your wardrobe. Jane makes it sound as simple as that, though the result looks like the ritziest evening gown in town. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY ZANDRA RHODES .. and called Conceptual Chic by Zandra. For her New Wave look, drop a sliver of shocking pink jersey on top of a plain black T-shirt dress. First cut several jagged slashes in a 105 x 114cm oblong jersey, making two of the cuts big enough for armholes. Overlock the edges and decorate with spangles and safety pins, preferably jewelled. Tie bright satin rouleaux around your neck. Stitch pearl or diamante beads on to plain safety pins or buy one of Zandra’s rolls of pins ready-jewelled from her shop at 14a Grafton Street, London W1. At £10, they’re the punk status symbol! Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY PETER GOLDING … whose rhinestone-studded jeans, spangled T-shirts and satin waistcoats glint and gleam in his shop, Ace. If you’re star-struck but can’t afford the glittering trappings or spare the time to stitch sequins on your jeans here’s Peter Golding’s tip. Hang your Christms-tree decorations on to ponchos of sheer black lace, add a few stick-on silvery stars and moons, fasten your Lurex sotckings with silver suspenders, shake your feathers and enjoy yourself! The mirrored belt is made by pasting handbag-size mirrors on to any plain belt. Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Lurex stockings, Mary Quant, £1.60.

The Twelve Days of Christmas

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara daly, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Linda Dagenais, Make-up, nostalgia
On the first day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — a partridge in a pear tree . To open our Christmas story, a golden brown soft look, with hair dressed on one side with real partridge feathers. Feathers in the hair were applied either with eyelash glue around the temple and ear area or just by fixing them actually into the hair with the quills like slides and lacquered to set into place.

The Twelve Days of Christmas… inspired us to create for you an exciting and dazzling face for each one of the 12 days in the hope that your ‘True Love’ will shower you with gifts, ancient and modern.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1973

On the second day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —two turtle doves… Dovesevoke romantic images and, in keeping with this theme, we created a delicate and totally feminine look.
On the third day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — three French hens… Here the look is bright, speckly and lots of fun —rather like something out of the French ‘Naughty ‘Nineties’, and very Christmasy… to set the whole look off, we tied a bright pink chiffon scarf into a French bow at the neck. Hair was set in tight curls and fluffed out.
On the fourth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — four colly birds .. . Colly birds are blackbirds, for those who don’t know, so we created this glittery Christmas face for dark birds, with the help of Estee Lauder make-up. Clothes from a selection at Nostalgia. Necklace from a selection by Adrien Mann.
On the fifth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — five gold rings . . . What better time of the year than Christmas is there to really experiment? With this in mind, we created our gold face. Hair was tightly curled with wooden perm rollers, brushed out into curls at the front, while the back was wrapped into a glamorous turban of gold lurex.
On the sixth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — six geese a-laying .. . There are many species.of geese, but we were thinking of the browny, speckled variety when we created this look. The theme is brown and gold. Hair was set in tight little curls. We then brushed it out and ran fingers through it for a natural looking mop. Jacket from a selection by Samm.
On the seventh day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —seven swans a-swimming .. . Here we created the look of a swan—fluffy white feathers surrounding a delicately made-up face—perfect for all blondes. We swirled the hair back in a classic ballerina bun, and added a small false plait. Maribou feathers from a selection at John Lewis.
On the eighth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — eight maids a-milking .. . To create a real Christmas milkmaid, begin by setting hair on wooden permanent-wave rods (tiny rollers will do) and then fluff out with fingers. Then take velvet ribbons and plait into two rosettes and secure with pins.
On the ninth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — nine drummers drumming… In the old days drummers wore your colours and we thought that if we’d had colours, then, surely, silver, gold, pink and black would have been among them. Hair was drawn back into a classic knot at the nape of the neck and decorated with a single sequined strand over the forehead. Sequined top from Nostalgia.
On the tenth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —ten pipers piping… We piped the neck with a multi-coloured bead necklace from Biba to set off this Christmas look. The semi-shingle hair was first dressed into a side parting. Then we pin curled into large snail curls pointing towards the face. Set the back by means of tape or tissue to keep it flat. Comb sides forward.
On the eleventh day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — eleven ladies dancing… Christmas is a time for parties, so here is a super party-time look. Our model’s hair was set in loose curls to gently frame the face and we set it off with a gold sequined Juliet cap from an antique market stall.
On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —twelve lords a-leaping .. . We interpreted this last Christmas gift by giving our face masses of movement and colour. Focal point is the eyes where the theme is different shadow shades dabbed on like patchwork. Hair was dressed with a side parting with the thicker side pin curled to sit towards the face. Flatten the other side when setting with tape so that it lies smooth, and then jazz it up with coloured tinsel.

Christmas Packaging

1970s, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Marianne Desnaux, Richard Sharah, Schumi

The whole point of gift-wrapping for Christmas is to make your presents look even more exciting, festive and beautiful than they actually are. Exactly the same principle applies to your face ; it should be packaged carefully for Christmas, in order that it may make a suitably scintillating impression at the festivities at which it is going to be found. And just as packaging for presents grows ever more ambitious year by year, so does it for faces ; no longer will a quick dollop of gold eyeshadow transform you into the belle of the ball. Your own personal Christmas packaging should be like the ones here, a dazzling combination of colour and shine…

Make-up was worked out by Richard Sharah, who’s a genius. “Get the foundation on smoothly,” he says, “and the rest’s easy.” Not totally true, but you know what he means. Hair was by Graham Breakwell from Schumi. He set what was basically a straight bob, with perm curlers, and made the model sleep in them. The result was a totally manageable mop of curls that lasted for days and could apparently be moulded into any shape at all. And the model was Marianne Desnaux, new to the game, and every bit of 15 years old. Her skin’s like a dream, and her recipe for keeping it so is alarmingly simple. “I go to bed early and wash it with soap and water.” But she also said she only wore make-up when she had to. There’s a moral there somewhere. Anyway, happy party going.

Photographed by Graham Hughes.

Scanned from Honey, December 1974.

Christmas party pieces for dazzlers

19 magazine, 1970s, alkasura, Bellini, Cathee Dahmen, Crochetta, David Anthony, Essences, Essenses, gillian richard, missoni, Tsaritsa, Vintage Editorials
Multi-coloured lurex hat, by Missoni from Browns, £10. Exclusive black silk chiffon top, made to order at Tsaritsar. Knife pleated purple satin skirt from Alkasura, £10. Circular peacock fan from a selection at Essences.

Bright skirts and tops make it easy to dazzle this Christmas. Wear shiny accessories, flourish a peacock fan, add a lurex scarf. Outshine the twinkling fairy lights and sparkling decorations! Bright skirts and tops make it easy to dazzle this Christmas. Wear shiny accessories, flourish a peacock fan, add a lurex scarf. Outshine the twinkling fairy lights and sparkling decorations!

One of the most incomparably beautiful editorials I have had the pleasure of scanning, with a little insight into the ‘vintage’ market of the early Seventies (most of the sequined pieces appear to be original Twenties and Thirties from Essences, one of those places I would make a beeline for if I ever found that time machine). Also, glitter eyebrows. Swoon.

Model is Cathee Dahmen.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1973.

Net cap, with seed pearl trim, from a selection at Essences, £8.50. Green lurex halter neck by Crochetta, £6. Gold sequin bolero, from a selection at Essences, £15. Knife pleated gold taffeta skirt from Alkasura, £10. Green glitter evening bag from a selection at Essences, £12.50. Yellow shot lurex scarf by Bellino, 25p.

Sequin hat, with trim on side, from a selection at Essences, £8.50. Black and green lurex, heart shaped halter neck knee length ress and matching black and green lurex cardigan, by Gillian Richard, £12.95. Black lace gloves from a selection at Essences, £5.

White sequin hat, £8.50. Black sequin sleeveless top, £15. Both from a selection at Essences. Black velvet jacket, with silver stars embossed all over, made to order by Tsaritsar. Knife pleated silver skirt from Alkasura, £10.

Sequined skull cap and sequin bolero. Both from a selection at Essences.