Fresh, white and very laid back

1970s, Adrian Mann, chelsea cobbler, cosmopolitan, French Connection, norman eales, Russell & Bromley, strawberry studio, Sujon, Sun and Sand, Vintage Editorials, Wardrobe
T-shirt, French Connection. Trousers, Strawberry Studio. Chiffon scarves, Bazaar. Sandals, The Chelsea Cobbler. / Camisole top, Sun & Sand. Tie dyed skirt, Bazaar. Sash belt, Courtney Reed.

The way we’ll look this summer is very relaxed, very casual and very, very LA. T-shirting is the fabric, white is the colour and soft is the mood. Look cool and feel fresh in glamorous dresses, gathered skirts and drawstring trousers, all in jersey. Where best to show the new sweatshirt style but in sunny California? So we skytrained west to LA, thanks to Laker Air Travel’s new low London-Los Angeles air fare, which costs from £159 for the round trip. The private pool-side life in Beverly Hills is a plush style we could easily become addicted to . . . well, couldn’t you?

Pages 132 -135, 138-139 photographed at the house of interior designer, William L Chidester. Pages 136-137 photographed at the house of photographer Norman Eales.

Fashion by Liz Smith. Make-up by Bjorn.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, May 1978.

Lace-banded top, Bobos. £8.25. Cotton jersey skirt, Via Vai, Y1 7.50. Scarf sash, Bazaar, £4 50. Sun-glasses. Primetta, £6.95 Men’s swimming trunks, Speedo, £4.25. Silk flower and leather shell rouleaux tied at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 and £9.50.
Lace-edged embroidered vest, Jousse. 1:7.80. Silk trousers, £55, coat, €90, Adrian Cartmell for Manson. ‘Belt, Chris Trill, £8.50. Mules, Russell & Bromley, £18.99. Silk flower and leather shell rouleaux tied at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 and £9.50.
Side-slit vest dress, Pascal for Wardrobe, £17.95 Scarf sash, Bazaar, £4.50.
Cotton jersey dress, Via Vai, £23.50. Both pages, silk flower and leather rouleau ties at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 to £13.50. Sandals, The Chelsea Cobbler, £39.
Strapless T-shirting top, French Connection, £2.95 Batwing-sleeve cotton shirt, Monica Chong for Plume, £12.50 Silk skirt, Sujon, £36 Plaited neckband, Nicholas Adams, £1.30
T-shirting drawstring trousers, £13, cardigan, £10 60, Via Vai. Strap-less stretchy top, French Connection, £2.95 Canvas boots, The Chelsea Cobbler, £59. Scarf, Bazaar, £4.50 Jewellery on all pages , by Adrien Mann.

Thirties lips are Here’n Now

19 magazine, 1960s, Deco Inspired, Hair and make-up, hand tinting, Lentheric, Make-up, Vintage Adverts
Lentheric cosmetics advert
“Only Lentheric have it. Here ‘n Now Red. The today way of saying the Thirties. Memorably.”

Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1968.

Bumper Beauty Tips

1970s, Illustrations, malcolm bird, petticoat magazine

If you haven’t already, do click the Malcolm Bird tag at the top of this post to see exactly why I love his work so much!

Illustrations by Malcolm Bird.

Scanned from Petticoat Magazine, 17th August 1974.

Something long and cool

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, erica budd, Essences, Essenses, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jean junction, medusa, Michael Berkofsky, Uschi Obermaier, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Green cotton jersey t-shirt from Jean Junction. Floral print skirt from a selection at Van Der Fransen. Scarf around head from a selection at Biba.

You’re on holiday. It’s evening. You feel like dressing up, but staying casual. Something that’ll take you just anywhere. These skirts are ideal. Right for the beach. Perfect for a rendezvous.

(One of the models I believe is Uschi Obermaier.)

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1973.

Silk head scarves from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Both tops and long skirt made with different fabrics, from Van Der Fransen.
Silk scarf from a selection at Essences. White lacy top by Erica Budd. Long cotton skirt by Janice Wainwright.
Silk scarf from a selection at Essences. Yellow t-shirt trimmed with plastic ring from Biba. Cotton floral skirt by Medusa. All jewellery from local markets in Kenya.
Black printed scarf from a selection at Essences. Black bra top by Erica Budd. Black cotton skirt with embroidered floral by Janice Wainwright.

Patterns of Persian Living

1970s, Ann Turkel, Henry Clarke, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Michael Szell, thea porter, Vogue
Michael Szell in the bedroom of his London flat. The rolls of fabric, his new collection of Persian prints for Thea Porter. The dress, simply one length from the range worn like a caftan.

Michael Szell is the Hungarian fabric designer who is introducing Iran to London via a new collection of designs, taken up by Thea Porter for her romantic and ravishing evening dresses. His own bedroom, opposite, is in rich emerald, turquoise and brown arabesqued linen, cool and grand by day but rich and warm by electric light, with 18th-century Eng-lish paintings and mirrors. His drawing-room, below, is turquoise with brilliant Persian prayer mats colouring the walls, 18th-century English botanical china, and a mixed forest of hyacinth and growing orchids, later bluebells and orchids. Iran runs through Michael Szell’s life like a thread. He began to visit friends and connections there while he was still a child, used every possible holiday to get there while he studied economics at Aberystwyth University, and later when he worked with Sir Nicholas Sekers. His love for Persian ceramics, buildings and woven carpets developed into a passion for early Islamic art in its formal, random, asymmetric period before it came to represent life in the 19th-century : a passion culminating in his opening his own furnishing fabric showrooms at 47 Sloane Avenue. He began selling silk signature scarves to Henri Bendel of New York in 1969 and has just produced his new Persian collection of fabrics. Thea Porter asked him to print his designs onto silk chiffon for her and made them in flowing evening dresses with yards of floating sleeve and skirt.

For the coronation of the Shahanshah and the Empress of Iran, Michael Szell designed curtains, chair-fabrics and an entire state banquet for the Golestan Palace. He has been asked again to help with the decorations for the great October celebrations—the twenty-fifth centenary of the founding of the Persian Empire. He will contribute designs for the interiors of houses and for some of the 500 tents that are planned, with their own marble bathrooms, for the royal and distinguished guests who will take part in the celebrations at Persepolis, the ruined city and ancient capital.

Mr Szell has also been asked to provide the fabrics for all the palace sets in the new Universal film Mary, Queen of Scots, starring Vanessa Redgrave as Mary and Glenda Jackson as Elizabeth. He has an unrealised ambition to produce an absolutely modern collection of very cheap fabrics “from chair covers to plastic shower curtains”.

Model is Ann Turkel.

Photographed by Henry Clarke.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

Midnight blue Persian curlicues on azure silk chiffon. Sleeves dipping to the ground and gathered at the wrists, the bodice fitted, skirt soft and gathered. £78, at Thea Porter, 8 Greek St. Persian necklaces, both pages, from Michael Szell’s own collection.

Mixed Spice

1970s, Browns, Chelsea Antiques Market, Emmerton and Lambert, Inspirational Images, Mohanjeet, Sacha, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, Vintage Editorials

There is nothing formal about these clothes even though a few years ago most people would have thought they were. They look exotic because the fabrics are either Eastern, or mixtures of Twenties silks and chiffons. Everything is quite simply cut and easy to wear; it is only the fabric combinations that are elaborate. There are many women who don’t like to admit, even to themselves, that clothes are of any importance in their lives — just because they are not striding around in shorts doesn’t mean that they lack style, they just don’t want to be instantly pigeon-holed by what they wear. The clothes shown here are perfect for all those women who “don’t care about fashion”.

Report by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Sasha.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, April 4th 1971.

New dress from old fabrics; the bloomers are Thirties patchwork silks, the bodice is Indian and the sleeves Persian. Obviously no two are identical. From Emmerton and Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 Kings Road, SW3, £25.
Indian quilted chiffon skirt and bolero (£32) over gold painted chiffon blouse (also on cover), £10. All by Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1.
Skirt and blouse made from Twenties and Thirties silk chiffons. Skirt £15, blouse £10. From Emmerton and Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 Kings Road, SW3.
Reversible Indian wrap-around skirt and jacket in soft quilted lawn, £45. By Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, London, W1.
Multi-patterned dress in thick Indian cotton, £28. By Mohanjeet, from Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1

Fancy That!

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, boy london, Daily Blue, David Anthony, Inspirational Images, Retro, Rossella Goldschmied, Scruffs, strawberry studio, Vintage Editorials
Pink and white spotted elasticated top, £2.45 by Scruffs. Pink tiered skirt, £11.50, by Foxy. Glasses from a selection at Retro, from £3. Jewellery from Adrien Mann.

Take some bright reds, greens, yellows, pinks and blues – and blend them with spots and stripes, ribbons and frills. Add bangles, bead ribbons and flowers and finish off with sexy, high heeled shoes. You’ll be the star attraction… We chose some Italian designs from our favourite Italian company, Daily Blue. These are pricey but highly original, so that even if you can’t afford them you can profit from the idea.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1977.

Dress by Rossella Goldschmied for Daily Blue, £70.
Off the shoulder top, £38, and matching skirt, £60, both by Rossella Goldschmied for Daily Blue.
Pink top, £50, tiered apron skirt, £47, and matching shorts £17.50, all by Rossella Goldschmied for Daily Blue.
Cheesecloth dress by Taramina.
Red and white spotted top, £10.99, and matching skirt, £9.99, by Strawberry Studio. Glasses, £2, from Boy / Spotted top by Scruffs, £4.75. Cheesecloth skirt by Strawberry Studio, £7.99. Glasses from Boy.

Kathleen Tynan by Norman Parkinson

barbara daly, Hair and make-up, Kathleen Tynan, norman parkinson, thea porter, Vogue
With her vivid dark blonde hair, shining hazel eyes and pale skin, Mrs Tynan looks marvellous in white: here it’s her Thea Porter dress of white voile embroiderpd in green and bronze. She wears Balenciaga scent Le Dix; the Eau de Toilette during the day, and the scent at night. Some time ago Mr Tynan had made for her a copy of the dress that Garbo wore in As You Desire Me”; a delicious compliment. “I use Hydriane by Dr Payot, powder, mascara and a bit of green eye shadow. Eyeliner in the evening. I’m skinny and I’d like to be fatter, but no one can tell me how. I sometimes exercise at Lotte Berk, but more often don’t, and I like swimming in warm waters.” She loves roses and cornflowers, her favourite restaurant is L’Etoile “for sentimental reasons and because it has the best food in London.” Here, her hair by David of Michaeljohn, her make-up by Barbara Daly.

Kathleen and Kenneth Tynan live in Kensington with their children, Roxana, 5, and Matthew, 2, when they’re not abroad: they’re often either just off or just back – now it’s just back from four weeks in a cottage in Wales. Kathleen Tynan is an excellent journalist, specialising in arts features and interviews, and is working on her first book.

Photographed by Norman Parkinson.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, 1973.

Get Away

1960s, Gershon, Inspirational Images, Otto Lucas, Simon Ellis, vanity fair

For a Sunday by the river . . . just looking your prettiest. Snowy-white dress in broderie Anglais with a wide, square neckline, puff sleeves -a very demure air about it. By Simon Ellis, 72gns. Wide-brimmed hat in fine white straw by Otto Lucas, 88s. White organza parasol, to order from Harrods, 6 2 gns. White tights by Mary Quant, 18s : 11d. Paisley cushions and old-fashioned quilt from Cornucopia. More prettiness how-to : Almay’s range of hypo-allergenic make-up, specially formulated for difficult skins that usually don’t like any make-up at all. Soft Ivory Liquid Make-up, matching powder. Eye Shadow Aqua, Charcoal Brown Mascara; Pink Pecan Colour Moist Lipstick, And, a summertime scent, Mademoiselle Ricci by Nina Ricci.

Photographed by Gershon

Scanned from Vanity Fair, July 1968.

Well Dressed

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, Antiquarius, biba, Chelsea Antiques Market, Essenses, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Michael Berkofsky, Ronald Keith, Sacha, Spectrum, stirling cooper, susan marsh, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Cream Trevira cotton dress by Gillian Richard. Black patent shoes from Sacha. Silk scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Papier mache bangles by Fabrice for Zig Zag. / White cotton pull on hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white cotton dress from Spectrum. White peep toe shoes from Ronald Keith. White gloves by Cornelia James. Necklace and bangle from a selection at Zig Zag. Bag from Universal Witness.

Spring’s in the air – and with it the chance to wear all those elegant eye-catching dresses. If you’ve been feeling bundled up in woolies, here’s the chance to look feminine again.

All photographs taken at the Hyde Park Hotel, Knightsbridge, SW1.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1973.

Green and white spotted scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Soft green dress with flower print from Van Der Fransen. Belt inset with flowers and elephant clasp, and matching bangle, both from Biba. / Lilac and mauve ankle length dress with purple rosette trim from Van Der Fransen. Pink metallic platform shoes from Sacha.
Cotton mid calf dress from Biba. Gloves from Cornelia James. Beads from a selection at Susan Marsh at the Chelsea Antique Market. White bangles from Adrien Mann. / Pink cotton smock with floral print, yellow cotton skirt, both from Biba. Gloves by Cornelia James.
White cotton hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white dress from a selection of elegant old dresses at Van Der Fransen. Black patent shoes from Sacha. / Blue and white fan print dress from a selection at Van Der Fransen. White peep toes with flower trim from Ronald Keith.
White cotton hat from Herbert Johnson. Blue and white striped jersey dress by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper. Shoes by Sacha. / Blue and white striped dress by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ronald Keith.