If All The World Were Summer

1970s, Amir Scorpio, biba, Buckle Under, crowthers, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Jonvelle, Just Jane, medusa, stirling cooper, Sujon, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Far left: White cotton sailor shirt from Medusa. Tomato and white gingham dirndl by Just Jane. Panama hat by Buckle Under. Near left: Grass green and white gingham shirt over full green and red gingham skirt by Stirling Cooper. Straw hat from Crowthers. Men’s cream shirts throughout by Jeff Banks.

…Then dressing’s a picnic. All these nice new laundered clothes and country girls from Colette stories out in the green fields under blue Provençal skies, with wine and fruit and flowers.

Photographed by Jonvelle.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971

Creamy cheesecloth smock and skirt by Amir Scorpio. Hat by Buckle Under.
Smock of field plains, flower or spot prints, ruched and loose over bias skirt of buttercup crepe de chine at Universal Witness. Black straw hat from a range at Van der Fransen.
Near right: Flowering crepe de chine blouse by Sujon. Fully gathered emerald cotton skirt by Just Jane. Straw hat from Buckle Under. Far right: Black and red and brilliant Liberty mixtures gathered in frills and flounces by Foale and Tuffin. Flower and suede belts by Buckle Under.
Sky cotton blouse with red buttons, red stitching and long blue skirt by Sujon. Blue suede belt by Buckle Under. Black hat from Van der Fransen.
Cotton lawn smock in primary patches by Foale and Tuffin. Panama by Buckle Under. Clogs from Biba.

Satin Goes To Blazers

19 magazine, 1970s, Angela at London Town, Ann Reeves, biba, bus stop, Copper Coin, crowthers, hard rock cafe, Harri Peccinotti, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, lee bender, mr freedom, Ronnie Stirling, sheridan barnett, stirling cooper, Titfers, Vintage Editorials

gone to blazers 1

Purple satin blouse by Ann Reeves. Green satin jacket and matching green satin Oxford bags both by Sheridan Barnett for Copper Coin. Belt from Bus Stop. Rainbow brooch by Cash Graphics.

The original St Laurent satin blazer would cost you around £50, but otherwise they are available from about £10 and probably only you will know the difference. The best ones are from Bus Stop… very Joan Crawford, complete with ‘Forties’ shoulder pads. One thing’s for sure… you must have at least one in your wardrobe. They look particularly good worn over jeans and T-shirts, but if you want to look smart, wear them with matching trousers, a skirt, or over a printed dress.

Dreamy editorial which uses the brand spanking new Hard Rock Cafe on Park Lane in London as its backdrop.

Opened on 14th June 1971, by Isaac Tigrett and Peter Morton, its original decor was less memorabilia, more American-diner-transported-to-London. Sensing a gap in the market for musicians playing in London but unable to get a decent burger etc, within a decade they were expanding into the international chain it is now. The original is the only one I’ve ever visited, and it maintains a lot of its authentic charm – as long as you avoid the busy times. Oh how I wish I could time travel back to this era though.

This isn’t the first HRC-based photoshoot I have scanned, and I’m sure it won’t be the last. Its authentic-feeling interiors, much like Brighton’s seafront, seemed to lure photographers and models like moths to a flame.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1971.

gone to blazers 2

Crepe shirt by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Jade green satin blazer with black check (has matching pleated skirt not shown) from Mr Freedom. Panda brooch from Susan Marsh, Chelsea Antique Market.

gone to blazers 3

Blue denim hat by Titfers. Yellow satin blouse by Jeff Banks. Green satin jacket with red buttons by Sheridan Barnett for Copper Coin. Elvis brooch by Cash Graphics. Parrot brooch from a selection at Hope and Eleanor.

gone to blazers 4

Long sleeved white satin blouse with bow at neck by Ann Reeves. Single breasted red and white striped blazer by Angela at London Town. Sunglasses from Biba. Hand brooch from Hope and Eleanor.

gone to blazers 5

Blue and red printed rayon crepe dress and blue satin blazer with red buttons, both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop.

gone to blazers 6

Black rayon shirt with floral print and tie belt. Black satin double breasted blazer with self buttons and padded shoulders, both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Aeroplane brooch from Cash Graphics.

gone to blazers 7

Red and white spotted cotton button through dress by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Royal blue satin blazer from Crowthers.

gone to blazers 8

Red cotton hat from Titfers. Long sleeved white rayon blouse with sail boat print by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Double breasted blue satin blazer with red buttons by Sheridan Barnett for Copper Coin. Sunglasses from Biba.

Where have all the flowers gone?

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bermona, biba, crowthers, florrie carr, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Richard Selby, Sacha, Sacha, Vintage Editorials

where have all the flowers gone 1

Blooming red peonies on a navy rayon georgette dress, Florrie Carr. Flower trimmed straw hat, Crowthers. Shoes, Sacha. Rose print crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Straw hat, Bermona. Shoes, Sacha.

…To the seaside, where they’re blossoming out all over flimsy crêpe de chine summer dresses. So, if like most of us, you’re searching the shops for cool holiday clothes, now is the time to take your pick from our bunch.

Photographed by Richard Selby.

Scanned from Honey, August 1971

where have all the flowers gone 3

Fruit and flower crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Orange suede cork soled shoes, Sacha. Pastel tulip printed crêpe de chine skirt and matching blouse, Crowthers. Criss cross suede shoes, Crowthers. Plastic and raffia choker, Adrien Mann.

where have all the flowers gone 2

Swirling sunflower print dress in cinnamon and cream, Biba. White raffia sunhat, Herbert Johnson. Blue and white daisy patterned crêpe de chine dress, Ossie Clark for Radley. Burgundy straw hat, Biba.

All Tied Up

1970s, Adrian Mann, bus stop, crowthers, Inspirational Images, Jean Howell, lee bender, mary quant, Mog, petticoat magazine, Roger Charity, Sacha, Sacha, Susan Locke, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

Jersey midi dress by Crowthers. Paisley pinafore by Angela. Knitted hat by Susan Locke.

Jersey midi dress by Crowthers. Paisley pinafore by Angela. Knitted hat by Susan Locke.

Schoolgirls smocks gently looped, schoolmarm denims firmly tied and gypsy ribbons bowed: the perverse way to keep you ahead – all tied up behind!

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat Magazine, 3rd April 1971.

All Tied Up 2

Muslin midi dress with ribbons and velt tied at back by Mog. Adrien Mann raffia and bead choker.

Black crepe skirt and jacket with tie in the back by Bus Stop. Red shoes by Sacha. Van der Fransen rope around head.

Black crepe skirt and jacket with tie in the back by Bus Stop. Red shoes by Sacha. Van der Fransen rope around head.

Grey midi dress by Mary Quant. Peach and orange scarf by Jean Howell.

Grey midi dress by Mary Quant. Peach and orange scarf by Jean Howell.

Inspirational Editorials: Fashion Spectacular

1970s, british boutique movement, bus stop, crowthers, Inspirational Images, John Craig, lee bender, Mirabelle, radley, Tim Marlborough

Left: Satin wrap top. Voile shirt worn underneath. Crepe trousers. Right: Cotton top. Satin trousers. All from Crowthers.

Left: Satin wrap top. Voile shirt worn underneath. Crepe trousers. Right: Cotton top. Satin trousers. All from Crowthers.

Haircuts aside, this editorial is all the things I love. Plus it’s kind of goofy, in a Mirabelle Magazine kind of way, which I find charmingly refreshing in amongst high serious Vogue and Nova photoshoots…

Photographed by Tim Marlborough.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Mirabelle, November 1970

Left: Velvet gaucho pinafore from Bus Stop. Jumper by John Craig. Right: Velvet pinafore. White cotton blouse. Both by Bus Stop.

Left: Velvet gaucho pinafore from Bus Stop. Jumper by John Craig. Right: Velvet pinafore. White cotton blouse. Both by Bus Stop.

Left: Crepe dress by Radley. Suede choker with snakeskin applique from Bus Stop. Right: Crepe dress from Crowthers.

Left: Crepe dress by Radley. Suede choker with snakeskin applique from Bus Stop. Right: Crepe dress from Crowthers.

Inspirational Editorials: Knits, socks and clogs

1970s, alice pollock, alistair cowin, biba, british boutique movement, Chelsea Antiques Market, crowthers, Donald Davies, elisabeth novick, Grade One, harold ingram, Harrods, Inspirational Images, Jan Jensen, John Craig, kensington market, Margaret Howell, Mayfair Market, moyra swan, quorum, stop the shop, The Sweet Shop, Toto, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

Puff sleeve sweater from Harrods. Small turquoise Acrilan bib sweater at Stop the Shop. Both by John Craig. Khaki ribbed bermuda shorts by Donald Davies. Tapestry clog boots by Jan Jensen.

Puff sleeve sweater from Harrods. Small turquoise Acrilan bib sweater at Stop the Shop. Both by John Craig. Khaki ribbed bermuda shorts by Donald Davies. Tapestry clog boots by Jan Jensen.

A perfect winter look.

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, February 1971.

Dusty pink puff sleeved sweater over a beige linen sweater. Both by Harold Ingram. Thick purple wool trousers at Biba. Striped socks, Ruskin at Kensington Market. Knit cap by Margaret Howell at The Sweet Shop. Rose in glass pin, Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Jacquard sweater by Toto at branches of Crowthers. Mushroom beige sweater underneath by Harold Ingram. Royal blue cashmere shorts, McGregor of Dublin. Over the knee socks by Donald Davies.

Dusty pink puff sleeved sweater over a beige linen sweater. Both by Harold Ingram. Thick purple wool trousers at Biba. Striped socks, Ruskin at Kensington Market. Knit cap by Margaret Howell at The Sweet Shop. Rose in glass pin, Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Jacquard sweater by Toto at branches of Crowthers. Mushroom beige sweater underneath by Harold Ingram. Royal blue cashmere shorts, McGregor of Dublin. Over the knee socks by Donald Davies.

Vest and pullover both by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Pink knitted shorts by Alistair Cowin at Grade One. All clogs from Mayfair Market. Puff sleeved sweater in stripes of tuqouoise, pink and navy, acrylic tibbed dark blue polo neck undeneath, dark blue knitted trousers rolled up. All by John Craig at Stop the Shop.

Vest and pullover both by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Pink knitted shorts by Alistair Cowin at Grade One. All clogs from Mayfair Market. Puff sleeved sweater in stripes of tuqouoise, pink and navy, acrylic tibbed dark blue polo neck undeneath, dark blue knitted trousers rolled up. All by John Craig at Stop the Shop.

Guide to Feminine London

1970s, biba, Boston-151, british boutique movement, carnaby street, countdown, crowthers, Emmerton and Lambert, Foale and Tuffin, Illustrations, Janet Ibbotson, just looking, laura ashley, marrian mcdonnell, Michael Farrell, mr freedom, rowley and oram, stirling cooper, stop the shop, Suliman, thea porter, universal witness, yves saint laurent

Illustrated by Michael Farrell. Click to enlarge.

Oh I do love a good map. Especially a fantastically illustrated map of all my favourite shops in London in 1971. It is the nearest I will ever come to being able to walk around them. Sadness ensues…

Scanned from Vanity Fair, July 1971.

Bagged!

1970s, aristos, art of bags, biba, british boutique movement, chelsea girl, countdown, crowthers, irvine sellars, jean varon, john bates, just looking, king's road, laura ashley, mr freedom, ravel, stop the shop, take 6

Aristos © John Hendy

I couldn’t resist following ‘Tagged!’ with ‘Bagged!’. The art of the carrier bag seems even less appreciated than the art of the hang tag, despite its importance in the history of advertising and consumerism.

On Simon Hendy’s incredible website “My Dad’s Photos“, Simon has scanned a mountain of original photos that his father took across six years of fashionable (and not so fashionable) people on the King’s Road in the late Sixties and early Seventies. It is truly a delight to sift your way through them. They are a true time capsule of ‘real’ people wearing ‘real’ clothes in a period where photo opportunities were frequently engineered and crafted (as brilliant as Frank Habicht’s ‘In The Sixties’ is, it’s a very well-crafted form of ‘candid’ photography). I will definitely post about them again, not least because I recognise so many bits of clothing from designers I love.

However, today’s post is about the carrier bag. For, as I was sifting through and starting to get a bit dizzy with the amazingness of it all, I started to notice the bags people were carrying. Biba, Aristos, Stop the Shop, Crowthers… These are truly ephemeral items. How many people bother to keep a plastic bag? You might, if you were lucky, have wrapped something up in one and plonked it in your loft for the past forty years. But these examples are few and far between. The iconic design of the original Biba bags has ensured that they are the most regularly found on eBay, but few of any other kind have slipped through the net.

I did, however, find a ‘Jean Varon’ bag on eBay very recently, which has now taken its place in my collection of weird and wonderful ephemera.

Simon has kindly allowed me to link to his photos from my blog. I know it’s hard to keep such things under control in this age of tumblr etc, but I would appreciate if you would also ask him if you would like to repost his images somewhere else. He has spent many hours scanning these photos, photos which (unlike magazine scans) would not be available otherwise – from anyone else. Thank you!

Unidentified (possibly Mr Freedom at the back?) © John Hendy

Selfridges © John Hendy

Mates by Irvine Sellars © John Hendy

Guys and Dolls and C&A © John Hendy

Unknown © John Hendy

Fancy That © John Hendy

Chelsea Girl © John Hendy

Crowthers © John Hendy

Just Looking © John Hendy

Kids in Gear © John Hendy

Take 6 © John Hendy

Countdown © John Hendy

Ravel © John Hendy

Unknown (Mantra?) © John Hendy

Strides © John Hendy

Stop the Shop © John Hendy

Laura Ashley © John Hendy

How to Charm Prince Charming

alain vivier, biba, crowthers, gillian richard, Honey Magazine, miss mouse, platforms, rae spencer cullen, seventies fashion, simon massey, van der fransen

The intricacies of the make-up details and advice don’t particularly interest me in this article, but the photographs are simply incredible. Apologies for the creasing, sometimes things (and people) get a little crumpled over the years.

Honey, December 1972. Photos by Alain Vivier

Just an Old-Fashioned Girl

Old rose printed satin halter dress by Van der Fransen, £10. Shawl from Chelsea Antique Market. Shoes by Leicester, £10.99

Fifties Fan

Shimmering lurex ‘cigarette girl’ halter top with pussy bow and pencil slim taffeta skirt from Crowthers, £10.95. Shoes by Sacha, £12.99.

Instant Heiress

Jersey and candy stripe satin dress by Gillian Richard, £8.75 from Pinocchio. Shoes by Leicester shoes, £9.99.

Pretty Little Thing

Frothy net and taffeta skirt with tightly ruched stone-studded strapless top by Miss Mouse, £10.50 and £7.

The Lady is a Vamp

Tiger striped satin dress, £12.50 from Biba. Shoes by Sacha, £12.99.

Little Girl Lost

Short moire dress by Simon Massey, £12.75.Spotted bow fronted shoes by Samm, £7.95.

Chinoiserie, Japonisme… it’s all the same to Honey Magazine!

biba, chinoiserie, crowthers, Honey Magazine, japonisme, loungewear, morgan rank, underwear
Ahhhh. Random cultural eclecticism. The backbone of the fashion world. Good to know some things never change; titling your spread ‘Chinoiserie’ and then referring to Geishas, kimonos and Karate. Good old Honey. Regardless, it’s a beautiful spread full of beautiful clothes. I’m very passionate about loungewear, because I work from home and it’s my equivalent of a sexy, tailored work suit. What I wouldn’t give for those Crowthers pieces…
I resent being termed a ‘layabout’ though. The cheek!
Photos by Morgan Rank. Honey, December 1970