Eye Shades

19 magazine, 1970s, christa peters, Hair and make-up, Helena Rubenstein, Inspirational Images, Make-up

“The Purple Eye: Our autumn eye theme is purple. Deep, misty purple gives eyes an interesting, subtle look.”. Make-up all Helena Rubinstein. Purple silk chiffon material, tied into a cap, from Ascher Fabrics.

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1970.

Conjunctions of Beauty

1970s, barbara daly, belinda bellville, christa peters, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Kutchinsky, Make-up, Marcel Fenez, marie helvin, Nettie Vogues, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yardley

White paper taffeta wedding dress, frilled, ruffled, goffered, tucked. To order. White hat with ostrich and snowy veiling. Both, Bellville Sassoon. Marquise and diamond earclip, £12,580, David Morris. Two strings of pearls, £935, £1,120, Tecla. Pure hypo-allergenic make-up by Almay: Sugar Plum Colour Moist Pearl Lipstick, Fresh Parsley Superlight Eye Shadow, Fir Green Creamy Cake Eyeliner, and Night Green Mascara. Soft Peach Near Nude Foundation, Hush Peach Blusher and Translucent Powder.

To look really beautiful for your own satisfaction, and other peoples’, is one of the pleasures of living—health, dress, make-up, joie de vivre in happy conjunction with each other. Here, the most beautiful of everything, together in beauty.

Model is Marie Helvin.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1971.

Edwardian blue taffeta dress, right, sashed belled sleeves, a hundred ruffles. To order, Bellville Sassoon. Gold and diamond ear-rings, £790, Kutchinsky. Ring, great pearl in diamonds, Andrew Grima, £1,500. Make-up by Yardley: Ace of Hearts Moisture Creme Lipstick. Supertint Foundation Bloom, with Mini Blusher Rose Blush. Eyes: Pink Glow, Blue Streak and Jade Delight from two palettes of Cats-Eyes, made to come alive under the ultra-violet lights in discotheques. Eyebrows brushed with Slate Soul Set Powder Eye Shadow, lashes with Charcoal Mascarade mascara.

Burgundy crepe de chine dress, opposite, deeply V-necked, gathered under the bosom and sashed with a shaped belt. Very full sleeves drawn up along the seam and tied with a bow at the elbow. By Marcel Fenez, £30. Diamond star earrings, £2,200, at Cartier. Diamond crescent, £500, and diamond and pearl crescent, £360, at Collingwood. Make-up by Barbara Daly, with Gala’s Beige Barely There Liquid oundation, Sheer Blush Sheer Finish on cheeks, and Plain Chocolate Locked-In Lipstick. Eyes: Heather Liqui Tint, Black Liqui Lash mascara, Black Eyebrow Pencil. Nails: Extra Red Little Gem Nail Colour

Diamond constellation of stars, with a new moon of diamonds, set on a sky of blue plum moire taffeta, the huge petal ruffle of a long evening dress, rising in front to hide the camisole top, falling at the back. By Nettie Vogues, £55. Set of five Victorian stars, £3,250, moon, £525, at Garrard. Hair, here and on previous pages, by Leonard.

Art Can Be a Wearing Business

1970s, Alain Demange, allen jones, Blades, Browns, Carlton Payne, christa peters, David Hockney, Elizabeth Frink, Erica Crome, Erte, Jasper, Man-Shih Yang, Mensday, menswear, Murray Salem, New Man, Patrick Hughes, ritva, Simpson of Piccadilly, Vogue

Left To Right: Patrick Hughes’ numerical applique worn by Man-Shih Yang, 24, classical composer from Hong Kong. David Hockney’s applique, worn by Alain Demange, 21, French fashion designer. Elizabeth Frink’s bird applique, worn by Carlton Payne, 30, Jamaican jewellery and fashion designer. Allen Jones’ black leg applique, worn by Murray Salem, 21, Actor From Cleveland, Ohio. All appliques on Ritva sweaters, £40 each, at Blades. Velvet jeans, first three, New Man, £12, Browns: Right, by Jupiter, £10.50, Pant House.

A brilliant line-up of the now legendary Ritva jumpers, designed by four of the most well-known British artists of the time, and a series of shirts by Jasper with Erté prints. Menswear? Pah! I’ll take them all please!

Fashion by Erica Crome.

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1971.

Prints designed by Erte on pure slubbed silk shirts, Left to Right: Adam and Eve shirt worn by Murray Salem, in white and gold with red and green on midnight blue. Night and Day shirts: the frontview, Day, worn by Carlton Payne, in off white with golden yellow and brown sunflower, midnight blue collar and sleeve. Backview, Night, worn by Alain Demange, in midnight blue with swirls of white and bright blue stars and bats, orange, maroon and yellow owls. Black shirt With big cats in red with yellow eyes on the front and back, worn by Man-Shih Yang. Shirts by Jasper, £27, From Trend at Simpson. Velvet jeans, £12, at Browns.

Necking

1970s, biba, Chester Martin, christa peters, Honey Magazine, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, Jacqmar, Jasper, jeff banks, John Dove and Molly White, novelty prints, Ronnie Stirling, stirling cooper, Turnbull & Asser, Vintage Editorials

Hollywood film star printed cotton satin shirt by John Dove and Molly White for Jasper. Pure silk herringbone tie by Turnbull and Asser.

These are the ties that go with the shirts that are all part of the big 40s revival. Floppy silky shirts with subtly embossed patterns, and ties and scarves galore; they can be tied in bows, pinned with brooches, loosely knotted or worn like the men do. In fact, as long as they trail elegantly down the front of your shirt you can wear these ties just any way you like.

As a dedicated fan of long silk scarves (and silky blouses, and novelty brooches in fact) I’m just taking this editorial as my one stop guide to getting dressed this autumn.

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Possibly modelled by Ika Hindley (it looks like her mouth).

Scanned from Honey, October 1971.

Striped embossed crepe de chine blouse by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Paisley silk scarf by Chester Martin. Cicada brooch from Biba.

Feathers crepe de chine blouse by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Long spotted silk scarf by Chester Martin.

Avocado green crepe de chine blouse with fern pattern by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Silk chevron kipper tie by Turnbull and Asser. Egyptian stock pin from Biba.

Wavy patterned jacquard shirt by Jeff Banks. Printed silk scarf by Chester Martin. Sea horse brooch from Biba.

Flower embossed chocolate brown jacquard shirt by Jeff Banks. Long silk art deco scarf by Jacqmar. Flying eagle brooch from Biba.

The Thigh’s the Limit

1970s, chelsea cobbler, christa peters, coopers, Inspirational Images, Midas, observer magazine, Russell & Bromley, Samuel Sherman, Vintage Editorials, Wendy Dagworthy

thighs-the-limit

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Observer Magazine, 15th February 1976.

Pleated cotton skirt and tunic top by Chatelaine. Sandals from Midas.

Blue stripe pinafore dress by Coopers. Sandals by Midas.

Red silk embroidered tabard dress by Wendy Dagworthy. Navy sandals from Russell & Bromley.

Sailing boat print dress by Samuel Sherman. Navy espadrilles by Chelsea Cobbler.

The Tight-Ass Suit

1970s, barbara daly, bus stop, Chris Trill, christa peters, cosmopolitan, Courtney Reed, Howie Diffusion, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Liz Smith, Midas, Pamela Frances, Pancaldi, Sacha, Stephen Marks, strawberry studio, Tatters, Vintage Editorials

Suit by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Belt by Chris Trill. Shoes from Midas.

“Start squaring your shoulders, tightening your belt and walking on four-inch heels…”

A phenomenal editorial which feels very ahead of its time. This is really the birth of ‘Power Dressing’, from February 1979. There’s a curious juxtaposition of old and new, the old telephone and boudoir chair in the final photo suggest the origins of these suits in the Forties while the clunky ‘mobile phone’ is the signpost to the unknown future. Pre-Eighties and pre-Thatcher (just) – even pre-Miss Peelpants (also, just!) – there’s something quite charming about the modest silhouette here – which is really rather hard to equate with the horrors which were to come. These feel more in line with the New Romantic and Goth garments from the 1980s which I feel passionate about and choose to collect (like Sarah Whitworth, Symphony of Shadows etc), than with Yuppies and Dynasty, although you can just as equally see their genesis here.

Photographed by Christa Peters. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmpolitan, February 1979.