Cool off!

1970s, corocraft, Inspirational Images, John Carter, laura ashley, petticoat magazine
Dress from Laura Ashley, 157 Fulham Road, SW3. Headband by Corocraft at Selfridges.

Accompanying an article on keeping cool in a heatwave. As I’m scheduling this post a few days in advance, I apologise if it drops in the middle of a cold snap…

Photographed by John Carter.

Scanned from Petticoat, August 7th 1971.

Just Jane

19 magazine, 1970s, Chelsea Antiques Market, countdown, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, jane birkin, jinty, laura ashley, Marlborough, mia and vicky, Michael Berkofsky, quorum, Serge Gainsbourg, Sujon
Peasant-style dress in a multi-coloured patchwork print has a gathered elasticised waistline and short full sleeves, by Marlborough, £9.

It looks as if England has lost Jane Birkin forever … she is firmly entrenched in Paris with baby Kate, nanny and the lovely Serge Gainsbourg, living in sombre luxury in their newly acquired house. The interior is stark and dramatic, every room is decorated in black and white, with white doors and black marble floors or carpet. The furniture is also black and white—there’s a big black shiny piano in the lounge, and a black mink cover adorns the bed which is raised off the floor on a black perspex dais. Weekends are usually spent at a quiet retreat in the country, making a sharp contrast to the busy social life that they lead during the week. Since Jane landed in France she has never stopped working. Film after film has been completed and the success of the record she made with Serge, which was also written and composed by him, Je T’Aime … Moi Non Plus, has led to an LP also written by Serge. Her life is chaotic and busy, it seems as if the telephone never stops ringing. People phone her every day with offers of interviews and films, the next of which is still a closely guarded secret. It was whilst she was making her first film in France, Slogan, that she met and fell in lovewith Serge, an event which seems to have altered her life but through it all she remains the same—a waif of a girl, tall and lanky, in pullover and jeans, serving tea out of her treasured English teapot. Her wardrobe is noticeably small, consisting mainly of casual clothes like pullovers, T-shirts and jeans; with the occasional gipsy-type dress reserved for the evening and worn with gold chains, loop earrings and gipsy belts. She acquires most of her clothes by chance buying, rarely by intentionally setting out on a spending spree. Usually she just spots something she likes in a shop window and ends up by going in and buying it. In London she shops mainly at Countdown, Foale and Tuffin, and Quorum. She buys her jewellery from the Chelsea Antique Market. In Paris she favours the more trendy designers like Mia and Vicky or Jean Bourquin. Jane is perfectly happy spending hours hunting about in antique shops for interesting little knick-knacks, like the 18th-century doll’s house which she gave to her Serge for Christmas.

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1970.

Yellow ochre and beige printed full skirt has matching shawl and a crêpe bolero top, by Marlborough, £9 10s.
Ankle-length dress in brown and white printed cotton has a shirred bodice and sleeves gathered into a cuff, by Laura Ashley, approx. £5.
Long brown and white printed cotton voile skirt is prettily trimmed with white satin ribbon and has a matching bolero top, by Sujon, 11 gns.
Sheer rayon chiffon midi-length dress in a lovely muted purple has a bloused top and a flesh-coloured half slip, by Jinty, £8 15s.

Must See Vintage Films: The Long Goodbye

1970s, british boutique movement, films, Films, laura ashley, Nina van Pallandt, zandra rhodes

Quite apart from Elliott Gould being a very worthy successor to Humphrey Bogart as Philip Marlowe, and the faded-but-magnificent Art Deco buildings which feature throughout, Robert Altman’s The Long Goodbye (1973) is also well worth watching for Nina van Pallandt’s wardrobe.

First appearing in what looks like Laura Ashley:

Then a less identifiable dress of a similar ‘peasant’ style but rather less traditionally English in the use of pattern and colour (possibly by Mexicana, Georgia Charuhas or a similar brand):

You can see more clearly in this publicity shot that the bands of lace are transparent:

Then Laura Ashley again:

Slightly clearer albeit black and white in this publicity shot:

By this point, I started wondering if this wardrobe was perhaps that of the actress rather than of the character. Nina van Pallandt was a successful Danish singer (with husband Frederik van Pallandt, they were known as ‘Nina and Frederik’) and would have spent a great deal of time in London. It otherwise seemed a bit odd that she was wearing clearly British-made clothes, albeit in a style which wouldn’t seem too dramatically out of place in early 1970s California. It certainly sets her apart from the few other women in the film, including Marlowe’s doped up neighbours (who are rarely clothed at all), and gives her a dreamy, other-worldly quality.

Then, as if by magic, she then appears in the most spectacular Zandra Rhodes gown. A gown which will, I’m afraid to say, eventually end up soaked through with sea water and very likely ruined.

Again, a proper publicity shot provides a clearer view of the classic Zandra squiggle print:

Afterwards, still pondering this, I hunted around for film stills and eventually came across this photo of Nina wearing the exact same dress in an earlier television performance. Bingo! I don’t know if it was just a small budget or a fussy leading lady, but I can only presume the entire wardrobe of her character was her own. One of those little things which seems to satisfy a curiosity in me, and I feel the need to share with the world.

Photograph by David Redfern.

I think this might be a piece from Zandra’s earliest collection as the hood and sleeve style is very reminiscent of this piece worn by Natalie Wood in 1970. I hope it was able to be rescued from its salty fate and is still out there somewhere.

Peasant in the Sun

1970s, Bata, Bermona, biba, Britannia Land of Plenty, Buckle Under, chelsea cobbler, clobber, Diane Logan, Elliott, hampstead bazaar, Inca, laura ashley, Marielle, mary quant, miss mouse, Pamela Dennis, petticoat magazine, rae spencer cullen, ravel, Richard Green, Roger Charity, Russell & Bromley, Souk, Splinters, Sue Hone, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Mary Quant pinny worn over cheesecloth dress at The Souk. Britannia Land of Plenty silver armband. Buckle Under hat. Ravel shoes / Cheese cloth shirt and matching skirt by Richard Green. Woolworths hairnet. Buckle Under hat. Russell and Bromley shoes.

Summer’s peasant clothes come in brightly frilled cotton or in soft layers of cheesecloth with a bazaar of sunny straws and beads.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from Petticoat, 6th June 1972.

Souk pinny. Calico shirt with starry ribbon trim from Splinters. / Embroidered smock at Inca. Richard Green cheesecloth skirt. Waistcoat from Inca. Ravel suede sandals.
Miss Mouse seeksucker dress. Diane Logan boater. Biba false flowers. / Miss Mouse gingham dress. Bermona straw boater. Chelsea Cobbler wedge sandals.
Embroidered dress by Souk. Buckle Under Bowler. Britannia Land of Plenty shoulder bag. Elliotts sandals. / Midi skirt and cheesecloth dress at Souk. Inca wool belt. Buckle Under crochet cap. Bata sandals.
Long embroidered skirt with gathered waist from Hampstead Bazaar. Cheesecloth top by Clobber. Embroidered beret from Britannia Land of Plenty. Elliotts sandals. Straw bag from Inca. / Long checked cheesecloth dress by Marielle. Glass flower brooch from Van der Fransen.
Laura Ashley skirt. Calico smock by Pamela Dennis. Forbidden Fruit belt. / Laura Ashley top and skirt. Silk shawl from Britannia Land of Plenty. Shoes by Ravel.

Sunday Best

19 magazine, 1970s, alkasura, anello and davide, Bermona, Bilbo, bus stop, edward mann, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, laura ashley, lee bender, miss mouse, rae spencer cullen, Spectrum, stirling cooper, Travers Tempos, Vintage Editorials
White felt cloche hat by Bermona hats. Pale cream floral waisted shirt by Stirling Cooper. Long white cheesecloth skirt by Alkasura. White lace up boots by Anello and Davide. / Straw panama hat by Bus Stop. Pale green and dark green print sailor suit by Laura Ashley. Boots by Anello and Davide. / Chipped straw hat by Edward Mann. Yellow dress with stripes by Spectrum. White boots from Bilbo. / White hat with ribbon by Spectrum. Blue and white gingham shirt and skirt by Spectrum. White boots by Anello and Davide. / Peanut straw hat from Edward Mann. White cheesecloth shirt and skirt by Spectrum. Boots by Anello and Davide.

Summer is the time for romance. It’s the time for walking in the woods or by the water’s edge, and for having those delicious picnics. It’s the time for looking soft and feminine in long, flowing dresses and picture hats. So we’ve chosen some of the prettiest dresses, skirt and hats we could find, to help you look your best when you while away those sunny days.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1972.

White piqued cotton hat from Bus Stop. White seersucker dress trimmed in red by Miss Mouse. Sunglasses model’s own. / Straw hat by Edward Mann. Pink, yellow and blue gingham dress by Travers Tempos. / Straw bowler by Edward Mann. Red and white spoted dress with red buttons by Miss Mouse. / Straw hat by Edward Mann. Cream calico smock and skirt by Laura Ashley. / Red straw hat by Edward Mann. Long blue cotton dress with toning panels by Travers Tempos.

The Velvet Touch

1970s, biba, bill gibb, charles jourdan, christopher mcdonnell, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, Jaeger, janice wainwright, laura ashley, Marida, oliver goldsmith, Russell & Bromley, Terence Donovan, Vintage Editorials

The Velvet Touch - Terence Donovan - Harpers November 1974 a

Velvet jacket and matching skirt by Christopher McDonnell. Hat by Laura Ashley. Wallpaper by Laura Ashley.

Velvets have gone into print this winter. Dashing suits and jackets come in all the mutations of the earth, sea and sky and are designed to be worn before rather than after dark. They look a million dollars and sometimes don’t even cost that much.

Photographed by Terence Donovan.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, November 1974.

The Velvet Touch - Terence Donovan - Harpers November 1974 b

Jacket and cream shirt embroidered with corn ears and matching skirt, all by Bill Gibb. Navy leather boots from Russell & Bromley.

The Velvet Touch - Terence Donovan - Harpers November 1974 c

Rayon velvet jacket in Persian print and black rayon velvet skirt, both by Biba. Rust crepe de chine shirt by Otto. Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith. Beret by Marida. Wallpaper from Laura Ashley.

The Velvet Touch - Terence Donovan - Harpers November 1974 e

Velvet jacket and matching skirt by Jaeger. Scarf by Rodier. Hat by Marida. Sunglasses by Oliver Goldmith. Boots by Charles Jourdan. Wallpaper by Biba.

The Velvet Touch - Terence Donovan - Harpers November 1974 d

Velvet jacket in splodgy print with matching skirt and Viyella blouse, all by Janice Wainwright.

 

The Winter Folk Look

1970s, Alain Walsh, Buckle Under, clobber, Crochetta, Herbert Johnson, Inca, Inspirational Images, John Craig, laura ashley, petticoat magazine, stop the shop, Sue Hone, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials

folk 1

Left: Embroidered long skirt and embroidered Mexican shirt, both by Souk. John Craig shaggy wool waistcoat. Buckle Under Enterprises balaclava. Right: Long skirt by Souk. Biba gloves. Clobber blouse at Stop the Shop. Jasper kimono from Miss Selfridge.

Warm folkclothes for the part of you that needs freedom and a soft, beautiful way of dressing even through the cold months of winter. These are the long skirt, blouses and shawls to pick up in the markets, the pinnies and shaggy wool coats to take off the peg and lounge around in.

Fashion by Sue Hone. Photographed by Alain Walsh.

Scanned from Petticoat, 11th December 1971.

folk 2

Left: Clobber gingham skirt with frill. Calico pinny from Laura Ashley. Knit jacket by Crochetta for Knits and Leathers. Feathers hat. Play balls from Inca. Right: Clobber seersucker skirt with print. John Craig rib polo sweater. Calico pinny at Laura Ashley. Embroidered jacket and Hessian belts at Inca. Herbert Johnson mittens.

Inspirational Illustrations: Tender is the Night

1970s, fortnum and mason, harpers and queen, Illustrations, janet reger, laura ashley, Mouchy, Selfridges

Tender is the Night by Mouchy Harpers and Queen December 70

From left to right: Fortnum and Mason, Selfridges, Laura Ashley and Janet Reger.

Illustration by Mouchy.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, December 1970

Inspirational Editorials: Cotton On

1970s, Bernard Neville, british boutique movement, caroline baker, Christian Aujord, edward mann, Electric Fittings, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jeff banks, laura ashley, liberty's, nova magazine, Serena Shaffer, Vintage Editorials

Liberty print dress by Jeff Banks

Liberty print dress by Jeff Banks. Hat throughout by Edward Mann. Petticoat throughout by Laura Ashley

Styled by Caroline Baker. Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Nova, May 1975

Smock dress and matching pyjama trousers by Serena Shaffer at Electric Fittings.

Smock dress and matching pyjama trousers by Serena Shaffer at Electric Fittings.

Dress by Christian Aujord.

Dress by Christian Aujord.

Top and circle skirt by Janice Wainwright with print by Bernard Neville for Cantoni.

Top and circle skirt by Janice Wainwright with print by Bernard Neville for Cantoni.

Inspirational Editorials: Clothes to make him hungry

1970s, angela gore, Anne Turkel, Antiquarius, brian duffy, christopher mcdonnell, cosmopolitan, David Scott, Diana Doe, Habitat, Inspirational Images, laura ashley, lord john, Samm, Shop O, Vintage Editorials

shop o gingham cosmo june 72

Dress by Shop O. Sandals from Samm.

Photographed by Duffy. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, June 1972.

shop o cosmo june 72

Blouse and skirt by Shop O. Sandals from Samm.

angela gore cosmo june 72

Nightdress by Angela Gore

mexican imports at david scott antiquarius cosmo june 72

Mexican embroidered top at David Scott, Antiquarius.

christopher mcdonnell cosmo june 72

White linen Garbo suit by Christopher McDonnell. He wears Lord John.

diana doe cosmo june 72

Dress by Diana Doe. Sandals from Samm.

habitat towel cosmo june 72

Towel from Habitat

laura ashley cosmo june 72

Skirt by Laura Ashley. Blouse from David Scott. He wears clothes by Lord John.