Grass-green speckled crepe de chine print smock gathered from a rounded yoke, the skirt gently flared. About £160, Abraham’s crepe de chine. White patent sandals with the narrowest straps, about £27.Earrings and beads of jade green , from a range. All from Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Great Designers World Series: Yves Saint Laurent and the blossoming of the chemise.
Hair by Jean-Louis David.
Model is Marie Helvin.
Photographs taken in the new Yves Saint Laurent Paris Salon on Avenue Marceau
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned from Vogue, 1st March 1975.
Cottage rose Liberty printed silk chiffon, just a ruffle off the shoulders on a band of elastic and a gather from the knee. But how beautiful. About £140. Gold leather sandals, about £27. Green tassel earrings, crystal and pearl beads, from range. All at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Printed silk, mauve and black with white, loose blouse yoked round the neck and tucked into a flared skirt pintucked to the hips, ending below the knees. About £140, Abraham’s crepe de chine. Hoop earrings and pale speckled beads, from range. All at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Shell pink leather sandal, this page, fine ankle strap, cut out wedge, E’3.99, Russell & Bromley. Opposite foreground: palest coral woven Panama straw shoe, peep toe, T-strap, edged in coral kid, £28.50, Bally, 116 New Bond St, W.1. Background, left to right: coral/sage/blue Liberty printed cotton sandal, fabric straps laced with coral ribbon, Richard Smith, £13.99, at The Chelsea Cobbler'(from early March). Open sandal on high cork wedge, deep sea coral hessian, fine white stripes, £14.95, Pancaldi, at Chic of Hampstead and Mount St. Pale sand pink kid espadrilles, peep toe, plaited rope wedge, £28.50, Bally, 116 New Bond St, W.1. Toes painted with Boots No 7 Clover Pink Wild Pearl Nail Colour.
What’s afoot ashore: peep toes, low platforms, T-straps and laces …
Have you looked at your living-space lately? Is it tired, jaded, faded and thoroughly November-ish? Now imagine it with new curtains, blinds, cushions and covers. A complete re-fabrication is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way of turning old into new and giving any room a winter face-lift. Shown on this page, covering large and small cushions, books, and even made into the prettiest pictures, are the brightest and best of the current furnishing fabrics. Take your pick, and then turn the page for details.
Photographer sadly uncredited. All fabric and furniture credits (Liberty’s, Heals, Ken Scott, Laura Ashley, Valentino, Pallu and Lake, Boussac, Sue Collier, Artemide, Sekers etc) using the key are in the image below.
LEFT: Rose-printed Liberty cotton shorts and bandeau halter-neck sun top, Sujon £8. Wavy leather wooden-sole sandals, Samm £12.99 ; scalloped plastic bangle, Paul Stephens 25p. RIGHT: Crisp cotton flowerpot-printed shorts and neck-tie top, Sujon £8. Knotted patent sandals, Saxone £5.99 ; plastic bangles, Adrien Mann from 20p ; shaded blue sunglasses by Pierre Balmain.
A strenuous day’s sightseeing deserves some-thing more than a cold Campari. In such an idyllic scene you’ll want to look exotic as a jungle flower, cool as that shimmering, irresistible pool. Playsuits—trousers or shorts, halter-necks or wrapovers—blossom bright, beautiful and shamelessly sexy.
Photographed by Roy A Giles at the Club Las Hadas, Manzanillo, Mexico.
Scanned from Honey, June 1973.
Cross-over Trice! top £3.50, and wide-legged deep ruched trousers £6.50, both by Martha Hill, from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1. Striped high-heeled sandals, Samm £14.99; large stud earrings 60p, gilt and green beaded necklace £1.50, elasticated gilt bracelet 65p, and bangles 20p each, all by Adrien Mann.
LEFT: Slinky wrapover Tricel top £3.50, and matching shorts £2, both by Martha Hill. Necklace, Butler & Wilson £9.50; plastic, bangles, Paul Stephens from 20p. Shaded sun-glasses by Pierre Balmain. RIGHT: Sexy puff-sleeved Tricel sun top with knitted front £3.50, and matching flared shorts £2, both by Martha Hill, from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1. Peep-toe leather and wooden-sole sandals, Russell & Bromley £11.99; gilt bracelet, Adrien Mann 65p; sun-glasses, Gay Designs £2.50; choker, Chelsea Gems 90p.
Strawberry red and white polka-dot seersucker halter-neck playsuit, Bus Stop £4.95, from Bus Stop, 3 Kensington Church Street, W8 (mail order 25p) and branches. Crimson conker choker £1.80, and gilt elasticated bracelet 65p, both by Adrien Mann ; lime green leather peep-toe shoes with wooden soles, Russell & Bromley £11.99.
LEFT: Lilac and cream iris-printed puff-sleeved cotton bolero with tie waist and matching trousers, Richard Green £12 approx. Write to Richard Green, 79 Great Portland Street, W1, for stockists. Large button earrings, Adrien Mann 60p; saxe blue patent knotted sandals, Saxone £5.99; tinted sunglasses, Gay Designs £2. RIGHT: Cream and crimson Pretty Polly printed rayon crepe-de-chine softly wrapped kimono jacket with wide flaring sleeves and matching drawstring pyjama trousers, Sujon £17.50. Barley sugar stud earrings 60p, and bangles from 20p, all by Adrien Mann ; white rimmed sunglasses, Gay Designs £2.
LEFT . Candy striped swirly printed loose cotton trousers vvith wide shirred waist £6.80 and sleeveless scoop neck crepe blouse with elasticated waist £6.50, both by Biba, from Biba, 124-126 High Street. Kensington, W8. Criss-cross leather andals, Samm £9.99, strawberry plastic bangle 30p. and thin bangles from 10p. all by Paul Stephens; smokey brown sunglasses. Gay Designs £2.50. RIGHT. Scorching pink cotton ruched seer-sucker all-in-one play-suit, Sally Tuffin for Charnos £8. Strappy patent sandals, Samm £14.99; wing-sided sunglasses, Corocraft £5.95; gilt elasticated bracelet, Adrien Mann 65p; bangles, Paul Stephens from 20p.
Cornflower blue button-through fitted cotton spotted blouse and wide flaring chevron trousers, Pierre Elegant £13.95. Pale blue beaded choker, £1.80, and bangles from 20p, all by Adrien Mann ; sugar pink and white high-heeled sandals, Samm £14.99.
Liberty’s have two birthdays because it’s their centenary year as well, and they have been working round the clock bringing out special gifts, fabrics, clothes and even their very own scent for the occasion. They will be opening a ‘one-off’ boutique in the basement where you can buy some of the one-off designs they have been creating, and throughout the whole store you will be able to find the special birthday items. So that you can have a sneak preview of one of the designs, we photographed a two-layer straw hat with a green appliquéd peacock feather showing through, and its own choker; £55, by Alan Couldridge. Scarf from a selection.
Dove-patterned dress with cap-sleeved bolero, £10.75 from Biba, Kensington High Street, W8. Suede patchwork shoes, Russell & Bromley, £6.95; sheer tights, Wolford, 40p ; carved bangle, Butler & Wilson, £1.50 ; plastic bangles, Biba, 55p each. Right : Wool-jersey gymslip dress, Sujon, £9.99, from Liberty, Regent Street, W1 , mail order 25p extra ; Image, Bath. Grey suede shoes, Russell & Bromley, £9.95 ; tights, Mary Quant, 75p ; bangle, Butler & Wilson, £1.50 ; bluebird brooch, Biba, 60p.
Daytime dresses in pretty prints and purely simple plains – warm and practical for everyday but special enough for best.
Photographed by Allan Walsh*.
Scanned from Honey, January 1972.
*Usually credited as Alain Walsh, I think it must be the same photographer.
Royal blue and bright pink spider-. knit Acrylic tiered smock, £4.50, from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1 , mail order 20p extra. Multi-coloured beaded necklace wound round wrist, Paul Stephens, 80p ; antique green compact, Butler & Wilson, £4.15. Right : Flowered black, lemon and cream short Acrylic smock with pleated front, Gillian Richard, £9.95, from Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1 , mail order 20p extra. Lime green bow brooch, Biba, £3.
Biscuit and plum flower-printed wool dress with fluted cap sleeves, Gillian Richard, £8.25, from Way In, Harrods, Knights-bridge, SW1 ; I Spy, Oxford Street, W1 ; ’27’, King’s Road, SW3. Mulberry flower-carved elasticated bangle, Butler & Wilson, £1.50 ; plain round plastic bangles, Biba, 55p each. Right: Bright yellow and pink sunflower dress in Liberty wool with scalloped neck, Gillian Richard, £11.25, from Liberty, Regent Street, Wl, mail order 25p extra ; I Spy, Oxford Street, W1 ; ’27’, King’s Road, SW3. Ivory brooch, Biba, £3; bangle, Butler & Wilson, £2.
Dusty-blue jersey dress with flared skirt and flouncy cap sleeves, Angela at London Town, £9, from all London branches of Neata-wear ; Sacha, Bridgend. Multi-coloured butterfly brooch from a selection at the Chelsea Antique Market, cream elasticated bracelet, Butler & Wilson, £3. Right: Scarlet wool jersey dress with yellow batwing sleeves and rainbow inset neckline, Jayne Swayne, £8.40, from Bata International, 151 Oxford Street, W1, and main branches including Newcastle, Sheffield, Swansea and Ipswich. Metal pretty-polly brooch, Butler & Wilson, £3.50.
Spider-knit Acrylic puff-sleeved smock, £4.50, from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, Wl, mail order 20p extra. Blue bead choker, Paul Stephens, 75p ; antique poppy brooch, £2.50, ivory elasticated bracelet, £3, beaded bag, £4.50, all from Butler & Wilson. Right: Electric-blue jersey dress, Sujon, £9.99, from Liberty, Regent Street, W1 , mail order 25p extra ; Just Looking, King’s Road, SW3. Spotted cotton kerchief, Herbert Johnson, 25p ; sheer blue tights, Mary Quant, 40p.
Scarlet and white confetti-spotted zipped jersey dress, £9.95, from Bus Stop, 3 Kensington Church Street, W8, and all other branches, mail order 15p extra. Plain plum and rust plastic bangles, Biba, 55p each. Wooden bead bangle, from a selection at Miss Selfridge. Right: Spotty silver-grey and white button-through jersey shirt dress, £9.95, from Bus Stop, 3 Kensington Church Street, W8, and all other branches, mail order 15p extra. Rose-carved bangle, Butler & Wilson, £2.
Olivia Newton-John, a seductive siren if ever there was one, wearing an Indian cotton blouse £4.25, silk patchwork skirt £20, Afghanistan tapestry boots £27.50. All from Forbidden Fruit, 325 King’s Road, SW3, or mail order from Forbidden Fruit, 293a Portobello Road, W11 (provided you send 50p postage and packing that is). Embroidered Persian waistcoat £7 from Liberty, Regent Street, W1. Olivia’s seductively reclining on embroidered velvet cushions, anything from £4 to £40 at Rumak and Sample, in The Incredible Department Store, 92 Brompton Road, SW1. Sexy silk tiffany lampshade, £10.50 from Biba, 124-126 Kensington High Street, W8. Imported metallic wallpaper, £5.33 a roll including tax, comes from John Oliver, 33 Pembridge Road, W11. Add 33p postage and packing if you want him to send you some. Everything else comes from Liberty, and if you write to them, they’ll let you know about mail order possibilities. Black Chinese coffee table £45, Victorian frame stool £40, antique Italian column £18, hand-made Iraqi rug from £40. Reproduction painted icon £4.70, giant Boda goblet, one of a pair at £5.95, copper Persian tray £30, and copper Persian plant pot, £17.85.
Long chiffon scarf designed by Celia Birtwell, 2 gn., from the Vidal Sassoon Shop, 44 Sloane Street, W1; Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3. White Tricel tricot blouse, part of set, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, 13 gn., with contrast trousers and jerkin, from Bazaar, Knightsbridge, SW1.
Scarves, instead of being dismissed as last year’s fashion gimmick, are being perpetuated as this year’s most important accessory. Still the simplest way to wear a scarf is to flip a long one casually college-style around the neck. As long as it’s not literally a college scarf this somehow adds enough chic to whatever you wear, without making you look fussily overdressed. There are dozens of different ways to tie a scarf. Smart French girls are tying scarves around their waists, twisted in with chain belts or beads. Marc Bohan at Dior makes headscarves tied pirate-style look young and chic, and shows scarves tied like a man’s tie. Although large squares will still be in demand to wear on the head or folded up as cravats, the big fashion in scarves is still for long ones, preferably fringed. Men will have to accept with a good grace that they have lost their long-established monopoly of fringed silk scarves. Until now almost the only places to find them were men’s departments, antique market stalls or somebody’s attic. (Shawls are the latest craze from jumble sales.) But shopping for scarves is easier this spring, with stocks at last in every shape and size. Hair by Valerie at Cheveux, 15 Abingdon Road, London W8.
Fashion by Liz Smith.
Photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned from The Observer Magazine, March 1969.
Paisley printed chiffon square, 63s., from Liberty, Regent Street, W1. Hat by Edward Mann, 49s. 11d., in a variety of colours. Tricel jersey tunic shirt (with trousers), by Jinty, 8 gn.
Tied around the waist a filmy silk square by Richard Allen, 75s., from Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, WI. Pearl and turquoise twisted bead belts with tassel ends, by Adrien Mann, 30s. each, from Harrods; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Beige crepe shirtsleeved jumpsuit £41 10s., from Jaeger, Brompton Road, Sloane Street, Baker Street and a number of provincial branches.
Pirate-style cotton handker-chief, 17s. 6d. from Liberty. Silver brooch on shoulder, 30s., silver bracelets, £1 7s. 6d. each; all from Indiacraft, Marble Arch, W1. Tricel jersey dress by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £5 19s. 6d., from Bazaar.
Indian silk scarf, 36 in. square, £1 11s. 6d., from Indiacraft, Silver chain, 18s. 6d. from Fenwick. Cigarette holder from Tunisia. Tunic dress in Lancola jersey by Marlborough, 11 gn., with trousers, from Peter Robinson.
Extra long silk scarf looks good tied as a sash, also in black, £2 2s. 6d., from Biba, 19-22 Kensington Church Street, W8, and by post. Rayon chiffon smock dress, by Polly Peck, 13 gn.
Square scarf tied like a tie, silk crepe de chine, 7 gn. yard, 36 in. wide, from Liberty. Dacron and cotton blouse, also in white, pale blue, brown, lagoon and pink, £5, from all Young Jaeger branches. Courtelle Neospun jersey pinafore-topped trousers designed by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, £8 18s. 6d. Maltese cross on chain by Adrien Mann, 25s. Tibetan bird ring £1 10s. from Indiacraft. Sunglasses by Corocraft, 25s.
Silk stole to wear as a sash, by Richard Allen, £7 17s. 6d., from Fenwick. Simple round-necked sleeve-less jumpsuit zipping up the back, in linen-look rayon, navy, beige, thyme or caramel, £14 10s., from Jaeger, London, and all provincial shops. Red and navy slingback shoes, 79s. 11d., from Dolcis. White plastic chain belt by Adrien Mann, £1. Page-boy wig, £21 15s., from Beyond The Fringe, 59 Brook Street, London
Transparent silk chiffon dress hand-painted in smudges of soft yellow and prune, sashed with long chiffon scarfs from Liberty, £2 12s 6d each. Dress, £45, Thea Porter, 8 Greek St, W1. Rings from Savita, 30 Lowndes St, SW1. All-in-one bodysuit and tights, £1 5s 6d, Fenwicks, W1. Pumps in beige crepe with jewelled heels, 28gns to order from Ferragamo, 24 Old Bond St, W1.
Glyndebourne in summer where the season opened on May 25th with Massenet’s Werther and Mozart’s Cosi fan Tutte. Balls, long, long English summer evenings for wearing fragile chiffon, delicate lace, organdie and brilliant silk; for baring arms and feet and dancing far into the dawn. These photographs were taken in the Organ Room at Glyndebourne.
I worked at Glyndebourne for a few seasons, a few years ago. Whilst it meant I was lucky enough to get to be in the audience several times, and visit the Organ Room, I’m now extremely sad that I didn’t have these dresses to wear!
All the hairstyles, using hair pieces by Toyer Tresses, by Oliver at Leonard, Upper Grosvenor St.
Photographed by John Claridge.
Scanned from Harpers Bazaar, June 1969.
Left: Black organdie dress embroidered with red raffia (fabric, Forster Willi), to order from Clive, 17 St George Street, W1. Red leather shoes; 12gns, Charles Jourdan. Red Mary Quant tights; 13s 11d, Selfridges. Earhoops; £3 1 5s, Paris House, W1. Parasol hired from Bermans, W1. Right: Black silk organza dress and shawl with white and red flowers; Bellville Couture, 95 Cadogan Lane, SW1. White Twiggy tights ; 16s 11 d, Galeries Lafayette, W1. Embroidered satin shoes ; 15gns, Kurt Geiger, Gilt earhoops; £3 1 5s, Paris House, W1.
Black nylon chiffon dress tiered in lace —a truly grand opera gown — with shoulder-wide scalloped neckline, tight bodice, satin sash; Capriccio Collection by Roter, about £35 10s, Harvey Nichols, SW1. Fan hired from Bermans, W1. Embroidered satin shoes; 15gns, Kurt Geiger. Nude tights by Berkshire; 11s 6d, John Lewis W1. Jet and gold ring from the Chelsea Antique Market.
Shirtdress splashed with flowers in brilliant Liberty silk ; Nettie Vogues, about £45, Fortnum & Mason, W1. Silk scarves ; Richard Allan, about £1 12s 6d each, Fenwicks, W1. Sheer Cling Tights Cantrece by Elbeo ; 15s, Selfridges, W1. Red shoes; 12gns, Charles Jourdan. Jet beads in hair ; Adrien Mann, £17s 6d, Dickins & Jones, W1.
Red and white flocked nylon dress — the prettiest of the Season —with gathers from neckline to waist, wide navy belt: Nettie Vogues, about 22gns, Dickins & Jones, W1. White Twiggy tights; 16s 11d, Galeries Lafayette, W1. Red shoes; 12gns, Charles Jourdan.
DESIGNED BY YUKI . . . and typical of the elegant raciness that Yuki breathes into everything he creates, a sultry bloomer dress to wear if you dare and if you’ve got the shape. Make it from a 1.5 metre square of cotton jersey. Simply cut two holes for your legs in the centre, step inside and tie the corners on your shoulders. Fake lily, Novelty Imports. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
. . . with the aid of Yuki, Sheilagh Brown, Wendy Dagworthy, Sheridan Barnett, Bill Gibb, Jane Cattlin, Zandra Rhodes and Peter Golding, eight top designers who were each persuaded to whip up a creation for when you still haven’t got a thing to wear.
Hair by Harambee, 19 Avery Row, London W1.
Make-up by Yvonne Gold.
Persian carpets from Liberty.
I think one of the models is Clio Goldsmith.
Photographed by Terence Donovan.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1978.
DESIGNED BY SHEILAGH BROWN … who goes the whole way with glamour, whipping silk and lace and ribbons into deliciously pretty confections. Here she transforms a 2.25 metre length of soft lace into beautiful balloon trousers gathered twice on ribbon drawstrings. A square of silk crepe de Chine, slashed in the middle for a sliding neckline, ties at the front with wide black satin ribbon. Silver sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY WENDY DAGWORTHY … the designer who makes sporty Viyella and rough tweeds look soft. Sunray-pleated cotton—hunt for the ready-pleated kind—is cut to make a piecrust collar that’s prettily tied with trailing velvet ribbon, on a poncho top belted like a tunic over a matching skirt. The skirt is one width of fabric gathered on a cord at the waist. Fringe the edges of toning check fabric to make the shawl. Boots, £44.99, Russell & Bromley.
DESIGNED BY SHERIDAN BARNETT who knows how to put together the luxury of velvet and lace in the new romantic style. Sheridan Barnett’s big cosy chasuble is made by folding in half a 2.5 metre length of velvet and cutting a straight line in the centre for the neckline. Tuck under the sides and wrap. closed at the waist with glossy black moire. Knot a fichu of black lace at your throat. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Patent ballet pumps, £11.50, Gamba.
DESIGNED BY BILL GIBB . . . who creates like no other designer. Here’s a little numero (main picture) from Bill’s sketch-pad that’s four straight pieces of jersey and need be only as expensive as the fabric you choose. Cut four 120 X 90cm oblongs of fabric—Bill picked soft ice-cream shades in Qiana jersey. Overlock the edges and run a ribbon drawstring through one short end of each piece. Two oblongs gathered up and tied on each shoulder make the back and front of the dress. The remaining two pieces, gathered in tightly to wrists and draped over your shoulders, make a floaty jacket that can be knotted back and front. Soft gold leather straps are Bill Gibb’s newest accessory. Gold sandals, £24.95, Midas.
DESIGNED BY JANE CATTLIN Sew one short seam in an oval of silky jersey and you’ll have added a glamorous Jane Cattlin creation to your wardrobe. Jane makes it sound as simple as that, though the result looks like the ritziest evening gown in town. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY ZANDRA RHODES .. and called Conceptual Chic by Zandra. For her New Wave look, drop a sliver of shocking pink jersey on top of a plain black T-shirt dress. First cut several jagged slashes in a 105 x 114cm oblong jersey, making two of the cuts big enough for armholes. Overlock the edges and decorate with spangles and safety pins, preferably jewelled. Tie bright satin rouleaux around your neck. Stitch pearl or diamante beads on to plain safety pins or buy one of Zandra’s rolls of pins ready-jewelled from her shop at 14a Grafton Street, London W1. At £10, they’re the punk status symbol! Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.
DESIGNED BY PETER GOLDING … whose rhinestone-studded jeans, spangled T-shirts and satin waistcoats glint and gleam in his shop, Ace. If you’re star-struck but can’t afford the glittering trappings or spare the time to stitch sequins on your jeans here’s Peter Golding’s tip. Hang your Christms-tree decorations on to ponchos of sheer black lace, add a few stick-on silvery stars and moons, fasten your Lurex sotckings with silver suspenders, shake your feathers and enjoy yourself! The mirrored belt is made by pasting handbag-size mirrors on to any plain belt. Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Lurex stockings, Mary Quant, £1.60.