Dare you?

1970s, Illustrations, nova magazine, Vintage Adverts

Advert scanned from Nova, December 1972

Scannin’ some Bourdin’in

1970s, bill gibb, guy bourdin, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, john bates, nova magazine

Dress by John Bates at Jean Varon

An amazing Guy Bourdin photoshoot from Nova, December 1972.

I’m missing a precious Annacat/Ossie page (don’t even get me started on magazine sellers again…) but what’s left is still pretty amazing. Honestly, modern fashion photographers can only hope to come close to such works of art created by innovators like Bourdin.

Top: Sheilagh Brown for Coopers, Bottom and below: Janice Wainwright

Janice Wainwright

Dress by Bill Gibb

Top: Sheilagh Brown for Coopers, Bottom: John Bates for Jean Varon

Dress by Gillian Richard

Inspirational Images: Bill Gibb, 1974

1970s, bill gibb, Inspirational Images

I love collecting old press agency photos whenever I can, and frequently forget that I have them. One day I will have all the wallspace in the world upon which to display them. Until then, I must remember to scan the odd one for your delectation.

Cindy Présente Une Robe d’Automne

Voici déjà desmodèles de la mode d’automne etd’hiver. Il s’agit d’ici, d’un des modèles de la collection de Bill Gibb, de Londres, une robe au style “pré-raphael”, ample, à plis et brodée de fleurs, que CINDY présente avec grace.

4 Mai 1974 AGIP

I’m not quite sure how much grace Cindy is demonstrating in her modelling of a beautiful Bill Gibb dress, but it makes me giggle every time I look at it.

Inspirational Images: Pat Cleveland in Zandra Rhodes

1970s, Ed Pfizenmaier, Inspirational Images, pat cleveland, radical rags, zandra rhodes
Inspirational Images: Pat Cleveland in Zandra Rhodes
Pat Cleveland wearing a silk screened chiffon Zandra Rhodes caftan in the Manhattan residence of interior decorator Angelo Donghia.

Photographed by Ed Pfizenmaier.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Radical Rags. Early Seventies.

Peek Inside The Boutique: Foale and Tuffin

1970s, brian duffy, british boutique movement, Foale and Tuffin, ingrid boulting, telegraph magazine

Marion Foale (left) and Sally Tuffin in their boutique.

Foale and Tuffin Ltd

1 Marlborough Court W1

Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin spent three years designing clothes under their own label before opening the Foale and Tuffin boutique in 1965. Their designs, often based on history, are still sold to other stores and boutiques in Britain and they export to the U.S. and Europe as well. They design for a relaxed way of life and make clothes they or their friends could wear.

The Daily Telegraph Magazine, July 17th 1970

Photos by Duffy.

Chiffon blouse, £7, and three matching skirts, £7 each.

Printed cotton dress, £12 10s. Hair by Vidal Sassoon.

Hard Glam Rock

1970s, alkasura, british boutique movement, Copper Coin, eric clapton, Foale and Tuffin, glam rock, hard rock cafe, mary quant, maureen starkey, mr freedom, pete townshend, sheridan barnett, van der fransen

Left: Shirt by Hans Metzen at Elle. Midi tartan culottes by Foale and Tuffin. Boots by Sacha. Hat by Bermona / Right: Vest by Girl. Sujon pants and battle jacket by Vanessa Frye. Shoes by Sacha.

One of my favourite Petticoat spreads, from September 1971, which I haven’t scanned in full before (why? I have no idea….). It was photographed at the Hard Rock Cafe in London, and published a mere three months after it opened (June 1971). The Hard Rock was a different beast back then, the memorabilia which would later become such a huge part of its identity was a later addition and quite haphazardly acquired to begin with.

Isaac Tigrett (later to marry Maureen Starkey, whom he would often introduce as “My most authentic piece of rock and roll memorabilia.”) and Peter Morton opened their American-style diner in an old Rolls Royce dealership on Park Lane. It became an instant hit with their musician and music-loving friends. They could come along, post-gig, for a hit of fast food, good company and a relaxed atmosphere. The decor developed from eclectic Americana into iconic music memorabilia, as various musicians donated their old instruments and clothes to their beloved Hard Rock diner.

‘So Clapton got to be friends with the proprietors and asked them to save him a regular table, put up a brass plaque or something. And the young proprietors said, “Why don’t we put up your guitar?” They all had a chuckle, and he handed over a guitar, and they slapped it on the wall.

No one thought much more about it. Until a week later, when another guitar arrived (a Gibson Les Paul, by the way). With it was a note from Pete Townshend of The Who which read: “Mine’s as good as his. Love, Pete.” ‘

From the official Hard Rock website.

This photoshoot is a rare insight into how the Hard Rock would have looked when it first opened and before it acquired its now legendary status and worldwide domination.

It’s also packed full of glam rock, British Boutique goodness and is almost as delicious as a Hard Rock Apple Cobbler….

Photos by Roger Charity. Fashion by Sue Hone.

Tartan pinny with button sides by Foale and Tuffin. Vest with red trim and heart buttons by Dranella. Boots by Sacha.

Left: Rhona Roy smock, under pinny by Copper Coin. Shoes by Elliotts. / Right: Syndica vest from Girl. Skirt by Mr Freedom. Jewellery from Paradise Garage. Shoes by Sacha

Left: Velvet suit by Marielle. Sox by Mr Freedom. Shoes by Ravel. / Right: Bermudas by Foale and Tuffin. Sweater from Elle Shops. Bangles by Biba. Sox by Quant. Shoes by Mr Wik.

Copper Coin red and blue pinny by Sheridan Barnett. Black pants by Gordon King. Shirt by Alkasura. Shoes by Quant.

Smock by Copper Coin. Top by Van Der Fransen.

Hairy and melodic: Marc Bolan

1970s, glam rock, Honey Magazine, marc bolan, t-rex

Happy Birthday to my beloved Mr Bolan, who would have been 63 today. Spread the sparkly love around…. This interview is from Honey, November 1970. I love that the interviewer describes Marc and Mickey as “hairy and melodic”.

Tyrannosaurus Rex is alive and well and living off Ladbroke Grove

If the Revolution is anywhere, it’s somewhere between Notting Hill and Ladbroke Grove. You walk through scruffy streets filled with big houses filled with bedsitters filled with either enormous black families, or else pale young people in velvet trousers who burn joss sticks and spend their lives trying to get it together; and no doubt when they succeed something’s going to give like it hasn’t given before.

This is where the Underground is, with all its religions, philosophies, prejudices, freedoms, newspapers, organisations and music. And this is where Marc Bolan lives, which is where the Underground is as well.

Marc Bolan is the original founder of Tyrannosaurus Rex, that twosome who warbled their way into the lives of millions when Top Gear first came on the radio. A lot of people switched off immediately and signed up with Tony Brandon or Jimmy Young. But a few people kind of clutched their heads and went ‘Wow!’ and have been seen at the Roundhouse ever since, where they listen to T.Rex singing how they want it sung, and J. Peel saying it how they want it said.

Marc Bolan lives, as has been said, just off Ladbroke Grove. You go up through a house where bits of prams and peeling paintwork set the tone of the place, and then you go into his flat, which is all plain colours with music drifting out of the bedroom and a nice bunch of flowers on the scrubbed wood table, and the smell of incense hanging in the air around the colour television set. There you see Bolan Child sitting at the table in velvet trousers and a little jumper which ties up in the front, and in shoes with straps on them, and he’s really the prettiest little thing you ever did see.

Over a pleasant cup of coffee we got to talking about the past. Before Marc got into music, his main claim to fame was as King of the Mods in Stamford Hill.

“I never liked school very much, so I started getting into clothes when I was about twelve. Clothes were then, I suppose, wisdom and knowledge and getting satisfaction as a human being. In those days all I really cared about was creating a sort of material vision of what I wanted to be like. If I go out and buy clothes now, it’s either because I feel down or because something looks nice. And if I wear that to do something it’ll make me do it better. But it’s not the goal any more, you see. At that point if you designed a new suit or a pair of light green shoes with buckles all over them, it was like you conceived it and saved up for it—which might take you three months—and then you got the shoes, and those shoes were, for three months, the only thing that made you go. Whereas now, it’s just a day, or like I’ve just bought a new guitar which cost me £400, which I’ve always wanted, but it’s a practical thing. I don’t sit there going ‘Wow!’; whereas then, a pair of shoes was like meeting God—it was a very strong buzz.”

Not exactly chain-store sales talk, but he had me more convinced than any sweating little man measuring my inside leg might hope to achieve. He talks a bit like he sings, with his voice going up and down, almost bubbling.

We got on to integrity next, which is one thing these fellows from Notting Hill are very hot on, seemingly unbesmirched by the nasty ploys of money-crazed businessmen.

“When I was fifteen it was very important for me to be in the public eye. Now it’s important only as a means to an end—I write now, and that’s what gives me pleasure. The end product is getting it to the people and having them appreciate it, but not worshipping it, because that’s very boring.

“A lot of kids I speak with are very sheltered—they’ve never had the experiences that I’ve had or that someone else that writes has, just because they’ve had strict parents and they’ve never read anything,can’t afford anything, and they look to you as someone they want to be like. They don’t really know what you are, any more than I know what I’m like. They just see the shell which you create, which perhaps is more real than the real thing—it’s what you want to be like. I’m very truthful as a person really, so I’m like what I appear to be. Whether that’s nice or not I don’t know.

“I try to be the same on stage as I really am. The only way it’s worth being successful is when you’re exactly what people think you are, otherwise you’re not successful, you’re the product of something. Which is only exciting when you are the product, because then you eliminate all the pressures—you are what you appear to be.

“The whole Top Twenty thing must be an incredible pressure. It’s like every time you put out a new single your career’s in the balance. You have 25 hits and one bomber and you’re finished. If you’re an LP seller like me, it’s important that you maintain a momentum of excitement, but it’s not a great pressure. Fortunately we’ve been lucky with that.”

Tyrannosaurus Rex, if you didn’t know it, consists of Marc and new member Mickey Finn, both of whom are hairy and melodic, singing about joy and love rather than street fighting (“I can’t get into Mick Jagger’s head”), and they manage to get very close, if not right into, their audience, because the audience and group are all very much a part of the same thing, and that’s what the talk turned to next.

“Gigs in England are like meeting friends instead of performing, although London is the least exciting place to play of all—we get better receptions in Scotland than we do in London, where it’s always nice but quite reserved ; whereas out of town they really freak. It’s only vibrations. You’re playing the sounds on instruments that men designed two thousand years ago to satisfy their fingers—it’s just pieces of string on wood—and you plug in and you’re doing it for them. No matter how much you enjoy the performance, if the audience don’t, you’re brought down. I believe people should be joyous.

“I think that to probably 75 per cent of the people who listen to us, the things that I’m saying are very new, but it’s only what I’ve read and thought and know about.

“I think people that come across as very humble are just insecure really, and they do believe they’re a bit of a groove but they’re frightened to say it. You’ve got to basically enjoy yourself because that’s all you have to start with—awareness of yourself is an up.”

Time was drawing to a close and Marc’s wife came in wearing a patch over one eye, with a dollar sign on it, covering a scratch recently inflicted by some unhip dog. We chatted a little bit more about how people refuse to accept things, how they question everything and how Marc chose the name of the group as a reminder that there were once animals walking this earth which were so fantastic and beautiful that they made fools of people who didn’t believe in dragons and the like. We listened to T. Rex’s new album A Beard of Stars, where they’ve gone electric and have shown that they can do much more than the gentler sounds of Unicorn and Prophets. (“There are spirits that live in chords and if you do a C to A minor chord, it’s magic—like every rock song is that chord”), And then we closed with some serious discussion.

“I do believe very much in the immortality of the spirit, I believe—I know for me it’s real—in reincarnation. I know this is only a lifetime for me to work out the Karma—it’s a thing I’ve got to do.”

So I went out into Ladbroke Grove knowing that there is a little corner of W. 11 that is forever India and, until I’d waited 20 minutes fo a number 52 bus, I was living on Cloud Nine.

IAIN STEWART

Smartie Pants

1970s, antony price, british boutique movement, bus stop, celia birtwell, christian dior, clobber, Diana Crawshaw, hotpants, mary quant, mr freedom, ossie clark, Patrick Russell, ritva, stirling cooper, telegraph magazine, universal witness, yves saint laurent
Smartie Pants

Shorts have been with us for some time now – “hot pants” making even starlets front page news – but the big question was whether they were here to stay, or were just a gimmick. Increasing sales seem to show that they are really catching on, and now the big stores are stocking them. For those with the youth and legs to enjoy them, we bring the very latest designs.

Photographed by Patrick Russell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine, April 1971
Outfit by Anthony for Stirling Cooper. All menswear by YSL.

Outfit by Antony for Stirling Cooper. All menswear by YSL.

Shorts and top by Bus Stop. Shirt by Toto from Crowthers

Shorts and top by Bus Stop. Shirt by Toto from Crowthers

Outfit by Diana Crawshaw for Mr Freedom

Outfit by Diana Crawshaw for Mr Freedom

Top and scarf by Ossie Clark from Quorum. Shorts by Clobber

Top and scarf by Ossie Clark from Quorum. Shorts by Clobber

Outfit on left by Diorling at Christian Dior. Outfit on right by Sheilagh Blagden at Stirling Cooper

Outfit on left by Diorling at Christian Dior. Outfit on right by Sheilagh Blagden at Stirling Cooper

Outfit on left by Ritva. Outfit on right by Paul Reeves for Universal Witness.

Outfit on left by Ritva. Outfit on right by Paul Reeves for Universal Witness.

 

Inspirational Images: Donbros knitwear

1970s, boots, Inspirational Images, knitwear, petticoat magazine

Petticoat, September 1971

Bagsy the middle outfit with the purple boots on the right…..so there!

This must be underwater love….

1970s, biba, cherry twiss, flip schulke, Inspirational Images, mary quant, ossie clark, telegraph magazine

White pleated dress; £30 from a selection at the Prop Shop, 51 Old Church Street.

I can’t believe I’ve never scanned this before. Honestly, the backlog of scanning is ridiculous due to time constraints and the fact that all magazines other than early Honeys are a very Bad Size for my scanner. When will I ever have an A3 scanner? When will I ever have the room?

Anyway, this is an utterly delicious shoot from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, July 1972, featuring some seriously beautiful clothes actually worn underwater in the Bahamas. I must admit that part of me winces at the idea of a silk chiffon Ossie being ruined in the name of a photoshoot. But, then, this is an incredible shoot…and no one would dare do it now, with a vintage piece, so it’s totally unique. I genuinely think that Cherry Twiss is one of the great unsung heroes of British fashion journalism, I’ve always loved the Daily Telegraph Magazine shoots under her direction.

Fashion Editor: Cherry Twiss

Photographer: Flip Schulke

Model: Cathy Shirriff

Also, unfortunately, the Telegraph had a pretty lousy print at times – especially when it came to the small ‘inset’ images. I’ve done my best, but they’re low-res to start with I’m afraid. Still very enjoyable and inspirational though…

Dress by Suliman; £25

Red spotted voile nightdress from Biba; £10.25

Left: Top and skirt by Anokhi; £22.50 – Right: Chiffon dress by Ossie Clark at Quorum; £30

‘Capsule’ by Mary Quant; £4

Left: Silk dress from Rumak and Sample; £25.15 – Right: Chiffon caftan by Deliss; £79

Octopus scarf dress from Essenses (Stand N8 at Antiquarius); £30