New for Autumn/Winter

1930s, 1960s, 1970s, british boutique movement, bus stop, chelsea girl, forbidden fruit, jean varon, john bates, lee bender, louis caring, Miss Impact, psychedelia, roland klein, terry de havilland, wallis, website listings, young edwardian
Chelsea Girl

Chelsea Girl

Tsk tsk. Slap my wrist. I’m pretty slack about putting website listings here on the blog, and I can only apologise. Here are some edited highlights (but there are plenty more already listed and more to come before Christmas!). Personal favourites are the original 1970s Chelsea Girl platform shoes, the black lace 1930s evening dress and Erte-printed John Bates for Jean Varon dress…

Unsigned original 1930s

Unsigned original 1930s

John Bates for Jean Varon

John Bates for Jean Varon

Roland Klein for Marcel Fenez

Roland Klein for Marcel Fenez

Forbidden Fruit

Forbidden Fruit

Unsigned original 1960s

Unsigned original 1960s

Terry de Havilland

Terry de Havilland

Young Innocent

Young Innocent

Lee Bender for Bus Stop

Lee Bender for Bus Stop

Wallis Fashion Shops

Wallis Fashion Shops

Miss Impact

Miss Impact

Louis Caring

Louis Caring

Unsigned original 1970s

Unsigned original 1970s

Inspirational Editorials: A Touch of Something Delicious

1970s, Bombacha, british boutique movement, chelsea cobbler, christopher mcdonnell, Electric Fittings, gauchos, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jeff banks, katharine hamnett, Mary Graeme, Orte, Palmer Smith, Reldan, Rodier, Sacha, tuttabankem, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, wallis
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Plum panne velvet skirt with rose pink appliqued flowers by Orte for Bombacha. Boa and beaded chiffon blouse also from Bombacha. Plum shoes by Sacha.

This is possibly one of the most perfect editorials I’ve seen in Vogue. Unshowy, basic, starkly-lit, but the clothes are mouthwatering. Plus, I am delighted to spot a pair of much loved (and much worn recently) velvet culottes from Wallis from my own wardrobe. It just goes to show, with a little bit of patience you can sometimes turn the dream into a reality…

Photographed by Palmer Smith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, November 1974.

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Grey/green spotted velvet skirt, waistband flowered salmon and turquoise. Deep salmon pink chiffon blouse. Both by Orte for Bombacha.

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Black flowered culottes and blouse by Wallis. Black ankle boots by Richard Smith for The Chelsea Cobbler.

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Clockwise from top left: Paisley suit by Jeff Banks. Shirt by Rodier. / Paisley suit and cream blouse by Rue de La Paix by Reldan. / Rose print velvet by Kadix. Silk shirt by Katherine Hamnett for Tuttabankem / Bluebird printed skirt suit and blouse by Christopher McDonnell.

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Black checked blue velvet jacket and skirt by Electric Fittings at Bombacha. Boots by Richard Smith for The Chelsea Cobbler.

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Velvet suit by Janice Wainwright. Shoes by Mary Graeme.

Model Daughters

1960s, british boutique movement, celia hammond, christopher mcdonnell, gerald mccann, Guy Cross, Hylette Adolphe, Inspirational Images, jean muir, marrian mcdonnell, paulene stone, Sandra Paul, Sarah Stuart, simon massey, telegraph magazine, Vanessa Frye, wallis, Worth
celia hammond

Celia Hammond with Mrs Hammond. Born in Indonesia. Says she was ‘quite plump’ when she first walked into Lucy Clayton’s. “I started losing weight when I stopped worrying about it.” Confesses that she’s been in modelling so long that these days the money is the main attraction.

Celia’s dress by Jean Muir

Photographed by Guy Cross.  Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, November 22nd 1968.

Hylette Adophe

Hylette Adolphe with Mrs Terese Adolphe. Born in Mauritius, convent-educated. Finds modelling “very hard and a bit depressing, but on the whole quite nice.” Recently in Corfu, where she had to learn to ride a Roman chariot for a German swimwear ad. Found it “quite terrifying”.

Hylette’s dress by Hylan Brooker to order from Worth Related Couture.

paulene stone

Paulene Stone with Mrs Sylvia Stone. After leaving school with six O-levels, she won a competition in a women’s magazine, part of the prize being a modelling course. She says she always wanted to be a model. “Apparently, I was always talking about it when I was a little girl.”

Pauline’s outfit by Simon Massey at Wallis.

sandra paul

Sandra Paul with Mrs Rosalie Paul. Born in Malta, where her father was an RAF doctor. Decided against going to university and instead she took a course at Lucy Clayton’s. Says about modelling that “in a funny way you enjoy it the more experienced and adaptable you become.”

Sandra’s dress by Marrian-McDonnell

Sarah Stuart

Sarah Stuart with Mrs Croker Poole. Born in India, Sarah Stuart was educated in England and Paris (“no make-up lessons; we worked hard at French, history and commerce”). Took up modelling when her marriage broke up. Says it’s hard work – “getting up early, packing heavy cases…”

Sarah’s trouser suit by Gerald McCann at Vanessa Frye.

Inspirational Images: Warm and fuzzy

1970s, Angela at London Town, biba, british boutique movement, bus stop, C&A, chelsea cobbler, elisabeth novick, gerald mccann, gordon king, Inspirational Images, Jaeger, James Drew, lee bender, mary farrin, mary quant, Russell & Bromley, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials, wallis, zapata
vanity fair 2

Left: Coat by Young Jaeger. Trousers by Angela at London Town. Shirt by James Drew. Striped waistcoat at Bus Stop. Right: Borg jacket by Gerald McCann. Angora trousers by Mary Farrin. Socks by Mary Quant. Clogs by The Chelsea Cobbler at Russell and Bromley.

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, October 1971

vanity fair 1

Left: ‘Monkey’ jacket by Gordon King. Checked Oxford bags by Bus Stop. Shirt from Bus Stop. Authentic Forties head by Zapata. Veiling from Biba. Right: Short furry jacket from Wallis. Trousers from C&A. Shirt from James Drew. Hand-knitted waistcoat from Bus Stop.

Got the Glitterbug…

1960s, 1970s, british boutique movement, chelsea girl, georgina linhart, Jaeger, Marnie Fogg, personal collection, quorum, wallis
Glitterbug (1972) from Marnie Fogg's Boutique

Glitterbug (1972) from Marnie Fogg’s Boutique

For some reason, I have shied away from posting about my collection much in recent years. I suppose it’s always been somewhat fluid; things come and go when times are hard or when something better comes along. But recently I acquired something which had always been a bit of a ‘holy grail’ for me, and it reminded me of exactly why I love fashion history, collecting and researching.

One of the most important books on my road to total geekery was Marnie Fogg’s Boutique: A ’60s Cultural Icon. Amazon kindly (and terrifyingly) informs me that I purchased it exactly ten years ago. Although clearly not comprehensive, something I am now realising is probably impossible, it was my main gateway into understanding the boutique phenomenon as a whole. I already knew many of the designers – and was delighted to see how much space was dedicated to John Bates – but several were new names to me. One of these was Georgina Linhart. Another graduate of St Martin’s College of Art and Design, Linhart set up her label in 1964 and, while she was frequently featured in the top magazines of the period, her business only ran for ten years. She later worked for Quorum, Jaeger, Wallis and Chelsea Girl. All four of which are favourite vintage labels chez Vintage-a-Peel.

Georgina Linhart, 1970

Georgina Linhart, 1970

The more time went on, the more I realised how rare examples of her work must be these days. My eBay search was empty 99% of the time, and only occasionally turned up magazine features and a couple of jackets. The most distinctive dress pictured in Fogg’s Boutique book was ‘Glitterbug’ (see above). A sequined halterneck mini dress, gossamer light and substantial in its insubstantiality; so quintessentially of its time, the epitome of the permissive age.

So my heart was in my mouth when Glitterbug turned up on eBay a couple of months ago. It was slightly out of my price range at the time, and the recent events in my life had forced me to re-evaluate what was important (and worth getting into debt for). So I sat and watched it. Every day I would log into eBay, with one eye shut, and check if anyone had bought it. Every day it was still there, but my nerves were getting beyond frazzled. So the day I finally felt marginally less broke than normal, was the day I logged in and put in a cheeky best offer. I am impossibly grateful to the seller for accepting it and making my collector dreams come true. It has been a long time coming, and it has come a long way from the USA, but Glitterbug is finally in my collection. Plus, it fits me – which I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t have done ten years ago. What are the odds?

Glitterbug (1972) from my personal collection

Glitterbug (1972) from my personal collection

Inspirational Editorials: Winter Weathering

1970s, biba, chelsea cobbler, Elgee, Graham Hughes, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, just looking, Mary Graeme, Ronnie Stirling, Sheraton, Vintage Editorials, wallis
Coat by

Coat by Elgee, boots by Biba

It seemed appropriate, for some reason…

Photographed by Graham Hughes. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey, December 1974

Coat, skirt, hat and boots by Biba / Coat by Wallis, hat by Biba, boots by Chelsea Cobbler

Coat, skirt, hat and boots by Biba / Coat by Wallis, hat by Biba, boots by Chelsea Cobbler

Coat by

Coat by Stephen Marks, hat by Biba, boots by Mary Graeme / Coat by Elgee, hat by Biba, boots by Chelsea Cobbler

Coat by

Coat by Sheraton from Ronnie Stirling, hat by Fenwicks, boots by Mary Graeme

Coat by

Cape by Elgee, boots by Mary Graeme

Coat by

Coat by Wallis, hat from Fenwick, boots by Chelsea Cobbler / Cape from Just Looking, hat and boots from Biba

Inspirational Editorials: Coats at the Barbican

1960s, Architecture, Barbican, Elgee, Inspirational Images, petticoat magazine, Richard Dunkley, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials, wallis

Coat by Elgee

I spent a month working at the Barbican last year, and fell in love with its strange beauty while I wandered around on my breaks. Sometimes these things need to grow on you, or for time to pass on past experiences; it is safe to say that I was never much of a fan during the seemingly endless trips to see the RSC there in my schooldays, nor when I went for a rather traumatic audition at Guildhall…

Amazing to see this glorious Petticoat spread, photographed at the Barbican when it was still a little Brutalist Baby in 1973.

Photographed by Richard Dunkley. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, October 1973

Coat by Shapes

Coat by Stirling Cooper

Coat by Sheraton

Coat by Wallis Shops

New blog, new listings…

1960s, 1970s, annacat, barbara hulanicki, biba, british boutique movement, Foale and Tuffin, Jean Louis Scherrer, jean muir, jean varon, john bates, Kate Beaver, mister ant, Mr Darren, strawberry studio, Vanessa Frye, wallis, website listings

Mr Darren

Ah, my inaugural listings post … well, over here on wordpress anyway. Yet again I have been a little tardy in posting them here, but better late than never! There’s Annacat, Jean Muir, Biba, John Bates, Jean Louis Scherrer, Foale and Tuffin, Strawberry Studio (and breathe), and many more. All images are links to the pages over at Vintage-a-Peel. Usual things apply, free postage in the UK and let me know if you want to pay in a couple of instalments for the more expensive items.

John Bates for Jean Varon

Vanessa Frye / Mary Murray Ltd.

Strawberry Studio

Biba

Jean Muir

Foale and Tuffin

Wallis

Jean Louis Scherrer

Kate Beaver

David Silverman

Mister Ant

unsigned

Annacat

Tweedy Autumn Perfection

autumn, bill klein, daywear, kangol, petticoat magazine, seventies fashion, stirling cooper, Vivienne Lynn, wallis

Skirt by Sujon. Polo by John Craig. Beret by Kangol. Scarf from Van der Fransen.

This spread is everything I love about Autumn and Winter, and how I am often attired. Interesting clothes: textures, colours and embellishments; hats, scarves, tights etc. But sometimes I seem to forget to post more daywear spreads, I suppose because they were often less interestingly photographed and displayed; sometimes even borderline chaotic. But I don’t see why that needs or needed to be. Daytimes can be the most expressive times for me…

This shoot is particularly beautiful and, for me, inspirational.

Photos by Bill Klein. Petticoat, November 1974

Skirt by Wallis Shops. Polo by John Craig. Beret by Kangol. Scarf from Van der Fransen. Shoes by Saxone.

Skirt by Wallis. Sweater by Mushroom. Beret by Kangol. Scarf from Van der Fransen. Sox by Kickers. Saxone shoes.

Skirt by Left Bank. Sweater by John Craig. Beret by Kangol. Scarf from “208″ SW10. Shoes by Saxone

Skirt by City Swingers. Sweater from Leaves. Quant sox. Shoes by Elliott.

Tweed skirt and hat from Bombacha. Polo from Dorothy Perkins. Shoes by Saxone.

Velvet skirt by Stirling Cooper. Shirt by John Craig. Waistcoat from Dorothy Perkins. Beret from Marida.

Shameless

david silverman, harold ingram, jean varon, john bates, polly peck, radley, wallis, website listings
John Bates for Jean Varon
Yes dear readers, tis that time again. Time for shameless self-promotion (which is basically the point of a blog, right?) and to show you what’s new at Vintage-a-Peel this week. We gots John Bates for Jean Varon (a recorded piece, no less…), Radley, Wallis, Polly Peck, Harold Ingram and David Silverman. Names aside, they’re all beautiful pieces and I want them to go to appreciative new homes (i.e to all of you dear readers). Please do go and check them out at www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk

David Silverman
Wallis
Harold Ingram
Radley of London

Polly Peck by Sybil Zelker