Everyone’s into the Red

1970s, barbara daly, Gina Fratini, hair, Hair and make-up, leonard, Make-up, norman parkinson, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Blouses, cardigans, spotted muffler, earclips, plain beads, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

Reassess these assets—lips, cheeks, nails—strike a whole new balance, have a Red Letter Day … Here, with Estee Lauder’s new make-up.

Hair coloured by Daniel, arranged by Oliver, both at Leonard.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Norman Parkinson.

Scanned from Vogue, September 1st 1974.

Silky jersey dress by Gina Fratini. Necklaces by Butler and Wilson.

Glamorscope

1970s, Adrian Mann, art deco, biba, Bourne & Hollingsworth, Charles Batten, che guevara, corocraft, Crocodile, Deco Inspired, Fenwick, hair, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Make-up, Martha Hill, Michael Berkofsky, Monet, quorum, Regis, Ricci Burns, Russell & Bromley, sheridan barnett, Vintage Editorials
Glamorous funnel-shaped crepe-de-chine sleeveless mid-calf length dress and loose jacket with dipped hem, side pockets and matching triangular scarf (not shown), Monet £21, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8. Elbow-length evening gloves, D H Evans £2.40; fabric rose, D H Evans £2.20; silk bangles, Gay Designs £2; leather peep-toe shoes, Russell & Bromley £24.99. Cane chaise longue, Biba £52.50.

Make-up by Regis at Biba Beauty Parlour.

Hair by Robin at Ricci Burns.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from Honey, March 1975.

Clinging jet black strapless frilled pencil-slim knee-length dress with spotted net drapes and pink tulle rose trim, from a selection starting at £5 at Martha’s Market, Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High St, Wl. Sparkling sequined pillbox hat, Charles Batten £9.95; black flowered lace, Martin Klein 65p a yard;.long black evening gloves, D H Evans £2.40; mother-of-pearl and gilt compact £8.50, and sequin evening bag £2.05, both from Biba ; carved jet drop earrings, Adrien Mann £2.25.

Sensational pink morocaine dress with floating back and front panels and shoestring tied straps, Sheridan Barnett for Quorum £29.50, from Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3. Long pearl ropes, Corocraft £3.20; rose, D H Evans £2.20; diamante drop earrings, Adrien Mann £2.25; silk bangles, Gay Designs £2; suede pointed stilettos, Biba £13. Satin cushions, large £7.95, small £2.25, ostrich feathers 95p each, all from Biba.

Stunning black self-embossed cap-sleeved crepe-de-chine dress with tight drawstring waist and slit back, Monet £14, from Che Guevara, Kensington High St, W8. Veiled satin pillbox, Charles Batten £8; long pearl rope, Corocraft £3.20; elbow-length satin gloves, D H Evans £2.40; thin silk bangles, Gay Designs £2; sheer black tights, Elbeo 55p; black satin strappy sandals with knotted front, Russell & Bromley £18.99.

Orange, green and cream flower-printed crêpe-de-chine dress with swirling accordion-pleated skirt, Jeff Banks £21.90, from Jeff Banks, Duke St, W1. Glittering pearlised gold belt £3.75 from Crocodile; long emerald green chiffon scarf, Fenwick’s £2.85; grey fabric gloves, Bourne & Hollingsworth 85p; gold leather peep-toe shoes with twisted front, Russell & Bromley £24.99.

The Six Jumps Ahead Look

1970s, crowthers, Frank Horvat, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, mr freedom, vanity fair
The six-jumps-ahead look (opposite) ; big Christmas talking-point for the folks and a very well-defined spell-out for the buzz (getting louder) that a lot of trendy heads will have short hair this spring. Not often this short, we guess, but when you’re a straw in the wind, you have to be visible. Now look at those eyebrows ; correction ; don’t because you can’t. Our model (Paris-based —which explains that neat little head) plucks them out every day. You don’t have to go this far— yet — but there’s no doubt whatever that brows should be thinner, paler and generally underplayed. Goodness knows what these tidings will do to Liz Taylor. Make-up ? Virtually none. Just super-clean, super-clear skin ; a little Geminesse Under Make-up moisturising tint (Apricot) which is totally transparent ; Max Factor’s Lip Gloss and a light dusting of freckles. The no-make-up look needn’t be quite this genuine; a lot of girls are achieving their version of it with foundation, gloss, blusher, powder—all of them transparent.

Top by Crowthers (although perhaps an uncredited Mr Freedom buy-in?)

Photographed by Frank Horvat.

Scanned from Vanity Fair, December 1970.

let your hair flame curly like this

1970s, barbara daly, barry lategan, grace coddington, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Screaming Mimi, Vogue

Ablaze with the colour of Leonard’s exclusive vegetable henna, imported from Persia, cold-wave permed with Wella Structurelle and set to frame the face. Palest skin smoothed by Barbara Daly with Angel Face Cameo All-in-One Make-Up, dusted with Translucent Light Fashion Compact, blushed with Soft Rose Blush & Gloss. Cutex Rosy Blinkers colours the eyes with Angel Face Sable Automatic Mascara. Lips shot with Cutex Wineberry Lipstick to match the iridescent Blueberry Schemer nails.

Silver flecked red blouse by Screaming Mimi, scarf by Woolworths.

Hair coloured by Daniel, permed by Sandra, styled by Celine, all at Leonard.

Model is Grace Coddington.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.

Cosmic Collection

1970s, Clare Park, hair, Hair and make-up, james wedge, Make-up, Princess Leia, Star Wars, Vintage Adverts, Vogue, yardley

Yardley here, perfectly demonstrating the far reaching influence of Star Wars on the late Seventies with the not-so-subtle use of a Princess Leia-esque model.

Model is Clare Park.

Photographed by James Wedge.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1978.

The Twelve Days of Christmas

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara daly, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Linda Dagenais, Make-up, nostalgia
On the first day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — a partridge in a pear tree . To open our Christmas story, a golden brown soft look, with hair dressed on one side with real partridge feathers. Feathers in the hair were applied either with eyelash glue around the temple and ear area or just by fixing them actually into the hair with the quills like slides and lacquered to set into place.

The Twelve Days of Christmas… inspired us to create for you an exciting and dazzling face for each one of the 12 days in the hope that your ‘True Love’ will shower you with gifts, ancient and modern.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1973

On the second day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —two turtle doves… Dovesevoke romantic images and, in keeping with this theme, we created a delicate and totally feminine look.
On the third day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — three French hens… Here the look is bright, speckly and lots of fun —rather like something out of the French ‘Naughty ‘Nineties’, and very Christmasy… to set the whole look off, we tied a bright pink chiffon scarf into a French bow at the neck. Hair was set in tight curls and fluffed out.
On the fourth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — four colly birds .. . Colly birds are blackbirds, for those who don’t know, so we created this glittery Christmas face for dark birds, with the help of Estee Lauder make-up. Clothes from a selection at Nostalgia. Necklace from a selection by Adrien Mann.
On the fifth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — five gold rings . . . What better time of the year than Christmas is there to really experiment? With this in mind, we created our gold face. Hair was tightly curled with wooden perm rollers, brushed out into curls at the front, while the back was wrapped into a glamorous turban of gold lurex.
On the sixth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — six geese a-laying .. . There are many species.of geese, but we were thinking of the browny, speckled variety when we created this look. The theme is brown and gold. Hair was set in tight little curls. We then brushed it out and ran fingers through it for a natural looking mop. Jacket from a selection by Samm.
On the seventh day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —seven swans a-swimming .. . Here we created the look of a swan—fluffy white feathers surrounding a delicately made-up face—perfect for all blondes. We swirled the hair back in a classic ballerina bun, and added a small false plait. Maribou feathers from a selection at John Lewis.
On the eighth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — eight maids a-milking .. . To create a real Christmas milkmaid, begin by setting hair on wooden permanent-wave rods (tiny rollers will do) and then fluff out with fingers. Then take velvet ribbons and plait into two rosettes and secure with pins.
On the ninth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — nine drummers drumming… In the old days drummers wore your colours and we thought that if we’d had colours, then, surely, silver, gold, pink and black would have been among them. Hair was drawn back into a classic knot at the nape of the neck and decorated with a single sequined strand over the forehead. Sequined top from Nostalgia.
On the tenth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —ten pipers piping… We piped the neck with a multi-coloured bead necklace from Biba to set off this Christmas look. The semi-shingle hair was first dressed into a side parting. Then we pin curled into large snail curls pointing towards the face. Set the back by means of tape or tissue to keep it flat. Comb sides forward.
On the eleventh day of Christmas, my true love sent to me — eleven ladies dancing… Christmas is a time for parties, so here is a super party-time look. Our model’s hair was set in loose curls to gently frame the face and we set it off with a gold sequined Juliet cap from an antique market stall.
On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love sent to me —twelve lords a-leaping .. . We interpreted this last Christmas gift by giving our face masses of movement and colour. Focal point is the eyes where the theme is different shadow shades dabbed on like patchwork. Hair was dressed with a side parting with the thicker side pin curled to sit towards the face. Flatten the other side when setting with tape so that it lies smooth, and then jazz it up with coloured tinsel.

Bunch of Pinks

1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, bill klein, cosmopolitan, Erika Bergmann, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, john kelly, Make-up

Cover picture of Erika Bergmann by John Kelly. Erika is wearing our Cosmo fluffy feather jacket offer – exclusive to Cosmo readers. Turn to page 99 for details. Eriika’s pink and silver lame dress, £9, pink bangle 55p, bunch of pinks 25p, all from Biba, Kensington High St, W8. Hair is arranged by Pauline of Michaeljohn, the make-up by Biba; eyes are shadowed with Havana Brown powder tint over Havana Brown gloss, with Sugar Pink powder under the eyebrows. The false lashes are Brown Spiders and the lipstick is Sugar Pink topped with lipgloss. The tan is the model’s own work.

Photographed by John Kelly (cover) and Bill Klein (feature).

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, September 1972.

Mirror Mirror

1970s, hair, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Vintage Adverts
Wella Spray – it holds and brushes out and holds and smells nice and holds and resists damp and holds… Wella – we know about hair.

I posted an alternate version of this, many years ago, but this one shows you far more of the amazing collaged wall behind the gloriously jumbled dressing table.

Scanned from Honey, June 1972.

Put on an exciting evening face

1970s, barbara daly, Boston-151, Charles of the Ritz, Chloe, david bailey, Estee Lauder, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Charles of the Ritz make-up echoing the dots on Saint Laurent’s soft chiffon halter. New Segur Ritz Mat Foundation over Pink Revenescence Moisture Glow with new Real Red Cheek Pommade Cleargel blusher and Translucent Face Powder. On the eyes, new Moisturizing Eye Shadow Base under Green Celery Eye Shadow Pommade on brow bone and Seagreen Mist Eye Shadow Pommade in socket and over lid; Paper-thin Creative Colour Satin Liner in Forest Green, Chestnut Brown Brow Colour, Black Auto-Lashique Mascara. New Liqui-Frost Tangerine Lipstick and Premiere Peach Liqui-Creme Nail Polish. Hair dotted with Nestle Streaks ‘N Tips Auburn Hair Colour by Gerald at Mod’s Hair, Paris, make-up by Barbara Daly; chiffon by Abraham, earrings by Saint Laurent.

Take browns, oranges, greens and gold, mix them, match them and make them work for you.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Hair by Gerald at Mod’s Hair.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1973.

Estee Lauder make-up teamed with the new bareness of Chloe’s bitter brown top, crossed over the back, wrapped around the waist of a matching pleated crepe skirt. Estee Lauder Soft Cover Compact Make-up in Fresh Cream, Fresh-Air-Pink Face & Cheek Tint, a dusting of Sheer Shell Re-Nutriv Powder. On the eyes, Smoky Apricot and Apricot Chiffon Pressed Eyelid Shadows with new China Blue Eye Glossamer at outer corners, Black/Navy Lustrous Roll-On Mascara. New Iced Sherry Glossamer over Re-Nutriv Rich Rich Lipstick in Classic Sherry, with nails painted in new Classic Sherry Lustrous Nail Lacquer. Make-up by Barbara Daly, hair slicked back and banded with Nestle Streaks ‘N Tips Gold Hair Colour by Gerald of Mod’s Hair, Paris; Pearl drop earrings from The Purple Shop, Chloe dress from Boston 151.

Beauty from Biba

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, beauty, biba, british boutique movement, hair, Hair and make-up, Make-up

As with everything Biba creates, its newly opened Beauty Parlour in the Kensington store hits that striking note of sparkling originality.

It has 19’s stamp of approval. because it is a genuine beauty parlour, in the true, old-fashioned sense of the word. The Parlour welcomes you into a relaxed, spacious and luxurious, ‘Thirties’ world of cream and black decor, bedecked with dark green palms. It is the brain-child of Barbara Hulaniki— Biba’s creator—and Regis, a brilliant and inventive make-up artist and hairdresser.

Before Regis showed us around, we asked him to tell us about his past.

Looking every bit as dashing as Valentino himself. he said: “Call me a man with no past. Although I trained and worked in many leading salons, I don’t want to be attached to anything I’ve done before or The Parlour to be compared with others.”

The Parlour offers the services of a modern establishment (from haircutting to leg waxing) which it executes in a novel way. Here you are not a number with a gown—you are treated as an individual with individual needs. In true Biba tradition, on arrival, you are fitted out with a fabulous gown—either a long black satin one (if you are having your hair done), a black velour robe (for the guys) or a super black towelling robe (if you are going into the beauty room). Even the hair nets are pretty— black and silky.


The seating is so cleverly designed in the curved and pillared room that one client hardly sees another and, although each hairdresser—and there are three, plus Regis— has his own ‘corner’, all the involved treatments, such as tinting, bleaching, high-lighting and perming. are done in private cubicles.

Biba carries every conceivable shade of hair colouring and hasn’t just confined The Parlour to all the well-known branded names. Regis virtually combed the earth to find special formulas and effects.

Henna treatments are very popular and Biba uses several varieties—Black Henna, for dark heads; Neutral Henna, for blondes; Henna Wax for dry, split hair; ordinary henna, for a rich, red glow and a special henna, which can be used with a perm—normally you cannot perm hair which has henna on it. (Henna treatment costs from £6: tinting from £6.50; perming from £10.) Regis has fixed ideas concerning shampoo.

“A good shampoo is the most important step in the whole process. because if you use a bad one. then you can forget about doing an original style. Dull, horrible hair can never look good, however hard you try.”

Biba has 17 kinds of shampoo to choose from, ranging from ‘Almond’ and ‘Strawberry’ to ‘Henna Gloss’ shampoo, which doesn’t actually colour the hair but, with constant use, produces marvellous red lights. There are also three biological shampoos: one for greasy hair, one for dry and one for dandruff sufferers. (A shampoo and set costs £3, no matter which shampoo you need to use.)

Other Biba specialities are the after-washing, pre-setting goodies. Regis’ favourite is the Champagne Rinse, which gives a remarkable gloss and softness. The Henna Conditioner is good and there are Frictions, too, which are spirit-based hair perfumes, to make your hair smell beautiful, as well as look good. (Frictions are something mothers and grandmothers know all about. but which had disappeared from our lives—until now.) These cost 50p. each, and you can choose from ‘Orchid’, `Fougere., ‘Eau de Cologne’, ‘Passionate’ and ‘Gardenia’.


Blow-drying is virtually non-existent at Biba.

“We want girls to look truly groomed and feminine again.” said Regis. He believes in the old-style training and he and his staff use rollers (but not heated ones), Marcel Wave tongs, wave clips. small tongs and irons, and do lots of exacting pin-curling.


The Beauty Room is run by a very efficient lady and practically anything is done. There are treatments to help acne problems; waxing to remove unwanted hair; massage including a deep-back massage. with an infra-red lamp; spot reducing with Slendertone and eye treatments, which include eyebrow shaping, eyelash dyeing and the application of Permanent lashes. (This costs £4. and replacements later on cost 10p. a lash.)

The manicures and pedicures are superb. If it is just a plain one you want, then, of course, they will oblige. But if you want something for a special occasion then they can do fantastic combinations of colours, patterns and designs on nails and toes, too, if required. (Ordinary manicures cost £1: the special kind. £2.50.)

As far as make-up is concerned. Regis will create a fantastic new look for you and will advise on form-ulas, colours and applica-tion. (Cost £5.)

The Parlour opens at 11am., on weekdays, and last appointments are at 6.30pm. On Saturdays. opening time is 9.30am. and last appointments are at 4pm.

It’s sobering to remember that about seven months after this article appeared, Biba was closed forever.

Photographer(s) uncredited.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, February 1975.