The Soft Touch

1970s, annacat, Ballantyne, Buckle Under, C&A, coopers, cosmopolitan, Deirdre McSharry, Fenwick, Herbert Johnson, Ian Knipe, Inspirational Images, irvine sellars, Janet Ibbotson, Jasper, jean varon, Jenny Harrington, john bates, John Craig, john kelly, Samm, Spectrum, terry de havilland, The Purple Shop, Trille, Turnbull & Asser, Vintage Editorials
Just the jacket, for interviewing the gardener… if he’s as handsome as Ian Knipe. Trille does the Lady Bountiful bit in yellow and a romantic hat. Jacket C&A £9.95, felt hat by Herbert Johnson, pearls by Ciro. Yellow angora sweater by John Craig, £2.10.

There is a licence to touch all the clothes on these pages. There is not a single trad, scratchy, thornproof tweed among any of the frankly tactile silks, angoras and flannels of autumn. Jerseys and pearls and sensible shoes were once the uniform of the WI. Now, (well) kept ladies whose fingers smell of “Cabochard” rather than cabbage, are pressing their flannel bags, having their pearls restrung and are wearing them with shirts so unbuttoned they could catch pneumonia – and heels high enough to rise above the muddiest farmyard. They are taking to pleated kilts, and cashmere sweaters so tight they’d enliven the dullest game of backgammon. Dinner dresses are back in style, and I do mean back down as far as you can go. Properly and provocatively dressed, a weekend in the country might be more fun than you think.

Hair arranged for all pictures by Carl of Molton Brown.

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by John Kelly.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, October 1972.

Give into the call of the wild, but come on softly in silk, angora and flannel. Jenny Harrington sends Ian Knipe slightly wild in her silk shirt, £15, flannel bags £16.50 by Annacat, and angora cardigan, John Craig £5. Fish pendant by Ciro. Ian’s camelhair sweater Ballantyne, £11.50. (Inset: The smoothest tweed in the softest shape will make you want to throw away your old trench. A great way to look for opening bazaars – and coping with Mellors. Coat by Coopers £33, hat by Herbert Johnson, £8.95.)
What would the WI say? Trille lolls about in cashmere sweater, skirt and pearls- -and shoes too high for country lawns. Sweater £11, skirt £30, both by Ballantyne. Pearls by Ciro. Shoes by Samm, £7.50.
Who’s for backgammon? Trille and Jenny get down to it (right) in necklines that ought to fetch the men from their port, on the double. Trille in red jersey dinner dress, John Bates for Jean Varon £16.75, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95, pearls by Ciro. Jenny in cream satin shirt by Coopers, £8, and pleated plaid skirt, Gor-Ray f11.95. Red shoes by Samm, £7.50.
The sporting life means quick repairs on the run. Jenny puts back the paint, stays ladylike in powder soft suede and silk. Jacket and skirt by Janet Ibbotson; the jacket costs £38, the skirt £33.50. Silk shirt Fenwicks, £11.50. Jewellery and shagreen compact from The Purple Shop. Shoes by Samm, £7.95.
Long weekends can lead to explosive situations – Jenny ignites something in her cashmere and kilt. Sweater by Ballantyne £13.50, skirt by Gor-Ray £11.95, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95. Pearls by Ciro. Ian in ruffled lawn shirt, Turnbull and Asser £11.75, check trousers Irvine Sellars £5.95.
By dawn’s early light a lady likes to relax. Ian wears C & A velvet suit £28; Trille in taffeta skirt and blouse, £5.50 each from Spectrum. Rose 84p from Spectrum. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, £12.99.
The softest touch of all is this mohair sweater (right), and a far cry from the clumpy rustic knits we used to wear. Jenny puts the new country clothes together gently—pink sweater, Buckle Under £12, pink wool skirt, Spectrum £6.95, hat by Herbert Johnson £7.50. Ian’s shirt by Jasper £5.50, check trousers £6.95 by Irvine Sellars. (Inset: Soft again —cream flannel blouse and satin trousers whipped up with beads and roses. Jenny’s blouse £5.50, trousers £5.50, flowers 84p, all from Spectrum. Ian’s blue shirt by Mr Harry £7.65.)

Twiggy by Justin de Villeneuve

1970s, bill gibb, Inspirational Images, Justin de Villeneuve, petticoat magazine, twiggy

The dress is uncredited but it looks like a Bill Gibb to me.

Photographed by Justin de Villeneuve.

Scanned from Petticoat, 16th October 1971.

Judy Bowker in Annacat

1970s, annacat, Annette Green, beauty, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Judy Bowker, Make-up, Vogue
Judy Bowker: 17-year-old actress soon to be seen as Saint Clare in “Brother Sun, Sister Moon”, chosen by director Franco Zeffirelli for her young, calm and serene beauty. Here she wears Innoxa’s Satin Sheen Peach moisturised foundation with a touch of Terra Glaze Colour Sheen on her cheeks, her eyes shine with Doeskin Shadow Gleam, the lashes with Dark Brown Master Stroke Mascara, and on her lips the new Jewelfast lipstick Flapper. Dress from Annacat. Hair by Manfred of Vidal Sassoon.

Photographed by Annette Green.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1971.

Shades of Autumn

19 magazine, 1970s, art deco, celia birtwell, francois lamy, Hair and make-up, Ingmari Lamy, Inspirational Images, karl lagerfeld, Make-up, ossie clark, quorum, Revlon

We’ve tried to capture the golden richness and mellow nuances of a well-preserved old oil painting, and create our October face with the new Moody Hues make-up from Revlon’s Natural Wonder collection. Face tone should be warm and tinged with a hint of tan, and we used foundation colour ‘Bisque Beige’, 66p., dusted over very lightly with translucent pressed powder in the ‘Medium’ shade, £1.02. We rouged the cheeks with Cheek Shine in ‘Red’, £1-32. Pursuing the same rustic-toned theme we chose ‘Soulful Plum’ mascara and lashed it on both top and bottom lids, 85p. Eyes are a muted melange of ‘Tortoiseshell’ Eyeshadow Stick, 66p., and the same shade in Lid Lights, the powder version, fading to complementary ‘Minty Green’ powder shadow just under the brows, £1.10 each. We dabbed over the eyelids with ‘Brown Shine’ cream blusher for extra gloss and softness, £1.32. Lips are outlined in ‘Bracken Brown’, 62p.

Model is Ingmari Lamy.

Make-up was applied by visagiste Jean Duval of Revlon, Paris.

The beautiful décolleté dress with huge winged sleeves is in black with a yellow, red and blue feather print, from Quorum, £24.

‘Forties-style hair was dressed by Tina of the Jean-Louis Davide Salon in Paris.

Photographed in the apartment of Karl Lagerfeld, the designer, by Francois Lamy.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1971.

Think of a tile floor, and needlepoint it.

1970s, Bellini, Inspirational Images, Kaffe Fassett, Palmer Smith, Vogue

Think of a tile floor, and needlepoint it: tapestry rug in twelve squares, joined as you like, repeated as you like. Designed by Kaffe Fassett for Beatrice Bellini of Women’s Home Industries’ Tapestry Shop, 85 Pimlico Rd; each square with enough Coats Tapestry wool, £12, complete border with sufficient wool, £75. Dark brown cotton caftan, £6.60 at Medina Arts. Photograph taken at the house of Mr and Mrs William Ellsworth-Jones. Just published, the new “Vogue Guide to Needlepoint Tapestry” (Collins in association with Conde Nast, £1.75)

Photographed by Palmer Smith.

Scanned from Vogue, November 1974.

What’s A Nice Girl Like You Doing In A Place Like This?

1970s, Adrian Mann, Anne Tyrrell, biba, Brave New World, che guevara, Derber, Gilles Ben Simon, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, irvine sellars, John Craig, Leicester Shoes, Martha Hill, mr freedom, Richard Green, Snob, stirling cooper, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials
Flamboyant concertina-pleated Courtelle wrapover blouse with elasticated frilled waist £4, and skin-tight Lurex toreador pants £5 50, both by Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1, mail order 25p extra. Waist-cinching leather belt £4.70 and diamante bracelet £2 both from Biba , sheer seamed tights, Mary Quant 75p, diamante-studded snakeskin shoes, Leicester Shoes £13.99; egg-shaped choker, Baggage & General £1 50; plastic bobble earrings, 43p, carved plastic bangle 40p, both by Adrien Mann chiffon scarf 15p from Woolworths

Lurid Lurex, sexy satin and slinky leopard skin make the wildest look of all. Not to be confined to parties, dance halls or even billiard rooms—this is what you wear anywhere and everywhere.

Just one of the most deliciously styled and shot editorials. As so often happens with Terry de Havilland, his shoes are credited to Leicester Shoes in this editorial but they’re definitely his as they also feature in Vogue in 1972.

Photographed by Gilles Ben Simon.

Scanned from Honey, October 1972.

Jet black embossed satin wrapover blouse, John Craig, £4.50 from Miss Selfridge, Duke Street, W1. Luminous pink satin trousers, Mistermonte at Dolly Day, £4.25 from all branches of Werff ; Satisfaction, Ilford and Harrow; Habit, York. Cube-shaped choker, £1.50, carved plastic bangle, 40p, both by Adrien Mann; diamante studded earrings, Paul Stephens, £2.85; chiffon scarf, Woolworths, 15p.
Glittering ruched Lurex top with fluted sleeves, Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper, £5.95 from Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, Slippery silver satin jeans, Seasons, £7 50 from Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1 ; Pinnochio, Fulham Road, SW10 ; Brighton; Garbo, Edinburgh. Wide leather belt £4.75, oval plastic bracelet 50p, both from Biba; long pearl rope 85p, kaleidoscopic jewelled “shubsilk” bag, £1250, both by Paul Stephens; Lurex ankle socks, Mr Freedom 65p; metallic snakeskin shoes, Leicester Shoes, £12-99; flocked chiffon scarf, Woolworths, 25p; bobble earrings, Adrien Mann, 43p.
Startling yellow and black leopardskin printed dress with ruched bodice, Martha Hill, £4.50 from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1, mail order 15p extra. Pearlised purple leather belt £4.70, plum plastic beads, £1.25, both by Biba; dangly jet earrings, Paul Stephens, £2.85.
Sparkling knitted Lurex halter-neck sweater, John Craig, £3 50 from Snob, 18 Golders Green Road, NW11, mail order 25p extra; also available from other branches of Snob. Pencil slim Lurex skirt, Brave New World, £5 50 from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8. Fluorescent leather belt £4 75, pink plastic bracelet 50p, both from Biba; pearl rope wound round wrist 85p, diamante studded earrings 85p, both by Paul Stephens.
Black slash-neck Banton dress with tiered flounced skirt, Anne Tyrell for John Marks, £11-50 from Miss Selfridge, Duke Street, W1 ; Hobby, Cardiff ; Topaz, Oxon; Chez Monique, Brighton. Fishnet tights, Wolford 50p; jet drop earrings £2.85, large pearl bobble necklace 75p, both by Paul Stephens; diamante zig-zag bracelet, Biba £2; flocked pink chiffon scarf, Woolworths 21 p.
Slinky Tricel jersey vest with swirling handkerchief pointed hem, Martha Hill, £7.50 from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1, mail order 1 5p extra. Dusty pink rose from a selection at Miss Selfridge; oval elasticated bracelet, Biba 50p; scarlet chiffon scarf, Woolworths 15p; sheer tights, Mary Quant 75p; patent wedge-heeled shoes, Derber £6.99.
Skimpy cold and black Lurex vest £3 50, silver and black zig-zag printed jacket £5.50, both from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1, mail order 1 5p extra. Black satin trousers, Richard Green, £5.60 from main branches of Irvine Sellars; Peter Robinson, Croydon, Norwich and Cardiff ; Gillian Richard Shop, Kendal Milne, Manchester. Scarlet leather belt, £4.75, black plastic bangles, 45p each, both by Biba ; white poppet beads, Woolworths 25P; black drop earrings, Paul Stephens £2.85.

The Sensuous Bedroom

1970s, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, lingerie, mild sauce, Over 21, Shirley Conran

Just because we spend around one-third of our lives asleep there’s no reason to design a bedroom principally for this purpose — after all, you can’t see, feel or appreciate your decorating skill while you’re dead to the world. I under-stand people do still use their bedrooms to love in — all the propaganda promoting white sand beaches, railway carriages or kitchen tables as suitable venues can’t entirely finish the bedroom as an erotic play area; at times it’s too cold for the beach, the trains are on strike and the kitchen table is littered with Meccano.

So this is a room to love in —whether you care to sleep in it as well is your own affair. The alternative methods of post-coital entertainment are well catered for — the stereo and tape deck are built in, as is a projector for blue movies or slide-shows. Food and drink can be stored within handy grabbing distance of the orgy-size velvet-upholstered bed which incorporates the practical features of an oriental divan — ie it’s low, large, firm and on two levels.

Lighting is from below — two ordinary recessed ceiling lights are recessed into the floor instead to give a flattering and romantic effect. How you’re supposed to read those book-cases full of erotic literature in the resulting gloom is not explained but perhaps that’s what the candles are for. If you ever need pure daylight the window is hidden behind that black-and-white chevroned blind. I can only think of two changes I personally would make to this perfect love environment — and they would be a lock on the door and the absence of the telephone.

By Shirley Conran.

Photographer uncredited.

Scanned from Over 21 Magazine, December 1973.

Smarter Than You Think

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, bus stop, chelsea cobbler, Deco Inspired, gillian richard, gordon king, Harri Peccinotti, Herbert Johnson, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, lee bender, manolo blahnik, nostalgia, Olaf Daughters of Sweden, stirling cooper, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials, zapata
Maroon hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Navy crêpe de Chine suit, with ruched trim on cuffs and two-button fastening, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £15.95. Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Navy leather shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95. Black bag from a selection at Biba. Navy gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black crêpe de Chine suit, with pink floral pattern and black and white geometric buttons, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. £11.95. Grey tiohts, by Mary Quant, 40p. Navy patent shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £15.95. Black poche from a selection at Biba. Black gloves from a selection at Nostalgia.

That’s what you’ll be in the latest Fifties-style suits and dresses.

Photographed by Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1973.

Black beret, by Kangol, £1.60. Grey crêpe dress, with ruched front, plain skirt and matching bolero, by Gillian Richard, £12-50 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p Black leather bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Onyx hatpin, from Chimera, £3. Black straw hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey crepe clingy dress, with V shaped collar at back and front and cross-over straps, by Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper, £11 95 Grey tights by Mary Quant, 40p Black leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95 Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Hatpin, from Chimera, £1
Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown, cream and black check woollen suit, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £16.95 Cream tights, from Biba, 30p. Brown leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, 17 95 Brown crocodile bag, from Chimera at Antiquarius, £8. Brown gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Rust, green and beige Argyll jacquard dress, by Gordon King, £15 Plain seamed tights, by Pretty Polly, 41p. Brown leather court shoes, from Zapata, E19. Brown crocodile bag from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Cotton scarves, from Herbert Jobnson, 32p each
Tomato, beige and brown jacquard turban. E1-25. Crêpe shirt, E7-95. Both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Orange gaberdine skirt, by Gordon King, £1050. Jacket, with open front and two-button lapel fastening. matches turban, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. £8 95. Tights by Pretty Polly, 41p. Shoes from Zapata, £19. Bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black straw hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Gaberdine skirt, by Stirling Cooper. £8 50. Check woollen jacket (comes with matching trousers, not shown), by Gordon King. £28. Cream tights from Biba. 30p. Shoes from Chelsea Cobbler, £17.95.
Duck-egg blue hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Black suit, with blue and yellow floral trim on collar and cuffs, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £13.95 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p Black and white snakeskin and suede shoes, by Terry de Havilland, X16 Black bag from a selection at Biba Brown hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Brown and cream jacket with tightly belted waist and toning skirt, by Gordon King, £29 Cream tights, from Biba, 30p Brown and white leather court shoes, by Terry de Havilland, £14. Brown crocodile bag, from Chimera, £8 Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Scarf from a selection at Essences.
Blue hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Blue crêpe dress, with white trim on front and cuffs, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, 111.95 Grey tights. by Mary Quant, 40p. Blue leather court shoes, from Chelsea Cobbler, 117 95. Bag from a selection at Biba. Gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Black hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Blue printed dress, with snail pattern and white trim, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, 111 95 Grey tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Blue leather shoes, with peep-toes, from Olaf Daughters of Sweden, 19.90 Black bag from a selection at Biba. Blue gloves from a selection at Nostalgia.
Maroon hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey jacquard below-the-knee dress, with maroon print. by Gordon King. £1450 Crocodile handbag from a selection at Essences. Maroon gloves from a selection at Harrods. Maroon and white spotted cotton scarf, from Herbert Johnson. 32p. Black hat from a selection at Nostalgia. Grey jacquard calf-length dress, with square neckline and collar trim, by Gordon King. £15. Black poche from a selection at Biba. Black gloves from a selection at Nostalgia. Onyx hat-pin, from Chimera, £3.

Autumn Midicine

1970s, Adrian Mann, Alan Rodin, anello and davide, Angela at London Town, autumn, biba, charlotte martin, clobber, elisabeth novick, georgina linhart, gladrags, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Jolly Boy, Louis Feraud, Pourelle, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, simon massey, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials
LEFT: Zig-zag Dralaen midi shirt dress, 8 gns., with a charcoal grey ribbed waistcoat. 4 gns., both by Georgina Linhart; pale grey leather boots, Sacha, 9 gns. RIGHT: Swirly skirted printed Dicel crepe dress with tightly laced wide wet-look belt, Simon Massey, £12 5s.; tightly laced suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns.

This is definitely the Season of the Midi, which involves a whole new set of fashion rules. Midis look best without an inch of leg showing, which means either long tight-fitting boots to take over where the midi finishes, or coloured tights matching clumpy-heeled shoes. So keep gulping; daily doses will keep you in the pink, fashion wise.

Aside from all the dreamy autumnal clothes and the fact that the blonde model is Charlotte Martin, it’s so lovely to see Terry de Havilland’s early and legendary three-tier wedges. As so often with Terry’s shoes, they are erroneously credited to the stockists (here ‘Jolly Boy’), but it’s still lovely to see them.

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick.

Scanned from Honey, August 1970.

LEFT: Giant sunflower•printed drawstring Acrylic knitted midi dress, Clobber, 7 gns.; silver clover-leaf buckled belt, Fifth Avenue. 77s. 6d.; lavender tights Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; snakeskin wedge-heel shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns. RIGHT: Wavy banded pink printed wool midi dress, Simon Jeffrey, 8 gns.; dusty pink tights, Twiggy, 7s.; two-tone wedge-heel snakeskin shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns.
LEFT: Tubular rollneck diamond jacquard midi dress, Clobber, 7 gns.; circular suede and leather thonged belt. Adrien Mann, 84s.; pale pink tights, Twiggy, 7s.; co-respondent snakeskin shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns. RIGHT: Slender zipped-up jacquard wool-mixture midi dress, Gladrags, £9; olive green printed chiffon scarf, Sara Jane, 59s.; pear-shaped leather linked belt, Ian Mankin, 80s.; plum tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; two-tone snakeskin sandals, Jolly Boy, 9 gns.
LEFT: Petrol blue and yellow side-split jacquard jersey midi dress, Angela at London Town, 10 gns.; knee-high navy canvas boots, Biba, £7 105.; dusty blue tights, Mary Quaff, 9s. 11d.; black leather belt with oval gilt eyelets, Strides, 84s. RIGHT: Bottle green micro-speckled jacquard jersey zipped-through midi dress, Gladrags, 10 gns.; Neapolitan printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s.; black canvas boots. Biba, £7 10s.
Kaleidoscopic fluted Dicel crepe midi dress, Simon Massey, £11; purple tights, Twiggy, 7s.; leg-hugging lace-up suede boots Anello and Davide, 16 gns.
Random rose-printed Shetland cowl-neck midi dress. Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; waist-cinching silver buckled belt, Fifth Avenue, 77s. 6d.
LEFT: Terracotta and create button-through Courtelle neospun jacquard coat dress (with matching trousers not shown), Alan Rodin, 15 gns.; sheer smokey brown tights, Berkshire, 9s.; swirly rust and cream printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s. RIGHT: Maroon and beige jacquard jersey midi dress with plain jersey skirt, Angela at London Town, 11i gns.; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s.; pearlised brown strappy shoes, Mary Quant, 75s.
LEFT: Toffee and grey striped wool midi vest dress, Kadix, £7 10s.; tan’ wood and leather thonged belt, Adrien Mann, 90s.; burnt orange tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; tightly laced rust suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Chevron printed Cossack dress in black, brown and grey Courtelle jacquard knit, Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; beige leg-hugging boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.
LEFT: Leather tasselled bitter chocolate angora wool jersey shirt dress, Miss Feraud, £13 10s.; brown and pink geometric printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 635.; rust suede lace-up boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Clingy plum and cream honeycomb-printed wool jersey vest dress, Pourelle, 10 gns.; triangular suede linked belt, Adrien Mann, 65s.; tight-fitting beige boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.

Drink to me only in pink champagne

1970s, guy bourdin, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Marcel Fenez, Vogue
Now look for evening, mood glamorous, and the colour to watch is rose. Make-up by Heidi Morawetz with Max Factor Truly Fair Whipped Creme Make-up and Natural Rose Face Powder (blended down the neck for an even skin tone); Frosted Dusky Rose Brush-On Blusher on eyelids (with Pink Pearl Shadow Creme along inner corners) and down the cheekbones; Brownish-Black Comb-On Mascara and the dazzle of new Poppy Frost Whipped Creme Lipstick. Hair curled and waved by Guillaume of Mod’s Hair, Paris. Cigar brown dress, in Hurel jersey, Roland Klein at Marcel Fenez, about £42, from Harrods; sizes, colours, other shops, see Stockists. Champagne: Moet et Chandon Dry Imperial Rose, Vintage 1966.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1973.