Face Value

1970s, Adrian Mann, beauty, eric boman, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Richard Sharah, Sun and Sand, Vogue
T-shirt by Sun and Sand. Cotton square, flower bunch by Novelty Import Co. at John Lewis.

This is what eyebrows used to look like, kids!

Hair by John at Leonard. Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Photographed by Eric Boman.

Scanned from Vogue, April 15th 1975.

T-shirt by Sun and Sand. Pink spotted ribbon, blue wrist-tied cotton square from John Lewis. Buttercup yellow bangle from Adrien Mann.

Wild in the Country

1970s, Angela at London Town, Antiquarius, biba, Butler & Wilson, Cordoba, Crochetta, Elliott, Foale and Tuffin, Hans Metzen, harriet, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, John Carter, miss selfridge, petticoat magazine, ravel, Ric Rac, Russell & Bromley, Sue Hone, Sujon, Titfers, Travers Tempos, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, wallis
Star vest dress, belt and hat from Cordoba. Elliott lace up sandals. Ric Rac cotton patch blouse.

Slip a shawl over summer and dream the days away in a land of your imagination. There couldn’t be a more beautiful way of letting a long sticky heatwave slip by than with these gentle colours made by a bleaching sun and these homespun clothes in soft country shapes. Whether you make it all the way to a shady plantation or just as far as the nearest cornfield, the scenery around any home this summer should look pretty good. Build up layers of cotton checs, sand suede overslips and warm rainbow knit waistcoats because even the sun can havee tantrums sometimes. Pack a pair of laced sandals and one huge-brimed straw hat.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by John Carter.

Scanned from Petticoat, 22nd May 1971.

Travers Tempos cotton madras skirt. Angela puff sleeve blouse. Harriett bolero. Butler and Wilson bracelet. Russell and Bromley sandals. / Sujon long madras skirt and vest top. Butler and Wilson pendant. Van der Fransen shawl. Miss Selfridge bag.
Hans Metzen skirt, jacket and shorts. Ravel sandals. Herbert Johnson wool belt. Antiquarius pendant.
Tie-dyed quilted cotton dress from Wallis shops. Butler and Wilson flower necklace. Ravel sandals. Biba scarf.
Voile kaftan by Ric Rac. Multi-coloured shorts by Foale and Tuffin. Crochetta bolero. Ravel sandals. Titfers bag.
Crepe skirt and matching blouse by Van der Fransen. Elliott lace up leg sandals. Choker from Butler and Wilson.
Travers Tempos madras cotton dress. Crochet waistcoat by Crochetta.

The Cover Up Look for Spring

1960s, Harpers Bazaar, Inspirational Images, Sarah Moon, yves saint laurent
The cover up look for Spring by Yves Saint Laurent (fabrics by Abraham, Brossin de Mere) in a multi coloured rainbow skirt that sweeps the floor.

Happy International Women’s Day! Here is one of my favourite covers, from the glorious Harpers Bazaar (before they merged with Queen and lost this lovely deco typeface, that 5s makes me swoon for some reason) and by one of my favourite photographers, Sarah Moon.

Photographed by Sarah Moon.

Scanned from Harpers Bazaar, April 1969.

Put your looks on your lucky number

1970s, barry lategan, beauty, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Malcolm Raines, Vogue
…with Boots completely revised Number 7 range – pure good colours, everything you need, and all in handsome heavy white and tan jars, cases and bottles – over 200 products in all.

While the hat is – unusually for Vogue – uncredited, the image is taken from this otherwise black and white editorial from the previous month so is probably by Malcolm Raines.

Hair by Oliver at Leonard.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1971

Scents of Smell

19 magazine, 1970s, hand tinting, Inspirational Images, james wedge, japonisme, Make-up, marie helvin, Mitsukiku, photomontage
Immersed in a bottle of Nina Ricci’s L’Air Du Temps toilet water, £2.15, and surrounded by a mass of colourful blooms – rose, geranium, lily of the valley and chrysanthemums – we show a pure silk kimono by Mitsukiku, £21, and make-up from the Boots No. 7 range.

This illustrative image for an article about scents and smell also perfectly showcases James Wedge’s genius for hand-tinting and photomontage.

Modelled by Marie Helvin.

Photographed by James Wedge.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, November 1971.

Cosmo Girls: José Fonseca

1970s, alice pollock, cosmopolitan, Inspirational Images, José Fonseca, Michael Berkofsky, ossie clark, Penny Graham, quorum, sheridan barnett
José at play relaxing at the Meridiana restaurant Long wrap dress made in crepe de Chine by Sheridan Barnett for Quorum.

José Fonseca is the co-owner of Models One, a busy model agency with top names like Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton on the books.

“As a child, I loved fancy dress and I still like breaking the fashion rules. I go to the office in clothes that can take me to a party afterwards—I just don’t know how to wear casual clothes perhaps because I hate my bottom! I feel more like a woman in long skirts than in pants or jeans. Ever since Ossie Clark made his first mid-calf skirt I have been trailing along—Ossie-style. I wear a lot of black because it always makes me feel fantastic. I like the anonymity of black and the way you can use it as a foil for jewellery and scarves. I went mad on sequins last winter. I bought jackets, berets, even a gold sequin ‘Twenties theatrical outfit—I like to sparkle. I wear a lot of make-up as I feel I can hide behind it. My hair used to be straight but I wanted a change so I had it cut and curled and then permed. But I’m going to grow it out.”

This is a part of a larger feature with ‘real’ Cosmo women putting fashion to the test, but this is definitely my favourite one.

Fashion by Penny Graham.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, March 1974.

José at work in a black crepe and satin top and long skirt by Alice Pollock. Ivory beads and silver belt were found in an antique market.

Come up and see me sometime

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Manfred Vogelsanger, platforms
Wallpaper, 10p. a 2ft. x 3ft. sheet. Each sheet has a border which can be trimmed off with a Stanley knife and steel rule and used for edging. Butterfly mirror from a junk Shop. Plywood boxes, painted with Biba Brown Flat Oil Paint, £1-80 per litre, and edged with wallpaper border, used as table. On table: feathers, 65p. each. Brown velvet shade, with gold bead fringe, £7-50. Gilt lady lamp, £5-05. Lacquered basket, full of beads, from 55p. Brown velvet wastepaper basket, £3-60. Satin and velvet cushions: small £2.10 each, large £2.95 each. Brown velvet used as bed-cover, £2.35 per square yard. Huge terracotta plant pot and dish from any good nursery. Both painted with Biba Brown Flat Oil and Biba Gold, £1.25 a litre, and varnished with clear polyurethane, from hardware stores. Old wardrobe was given a coat of Biba Brown Flat Oil Paint and edged with wallpaper border. Foreground: table and seat both made out of plywood, as before. On table: brass mirror tray, £4-50. Long-lasting candles, 60p. each. Brown mirror glass cigarette box, £5.50. Sundae glasses, £1.15 each. Crockery: cups 35p. each, saucers, 20p. each. Brown felt on floor, 95p. per yard.

How do you turn your bed-sitter into a cosy, welcoming den, with a seductive hint to it, so that a friend would love to come back with you after an evening out on the town? 19 asked Barbara Hulanicki of Biba for her expert advice on this and here are some of her easily imitated ideas to jazz up your pad.

Choice of colour schemes is very much a question of taste, but we chose Biba’s beautiful brown and gold paper and brown paint because they’re warm and intimate to live with and neutral enough to display favourite bits and pieces. Brown floor felt is a cheap alternative to carpet, but it is difficult to keep clean. If you can stand doing it, sanding tt-e floor gives a beautiful surface. pywood pieces, cut to size by your frendly local do-it-yourself shop and glued or nailed together, form excellent boxes for tables and seats. If yoire clever with a screwdriver, you night even manage to hinge one side and use the boxes for storage.

Painted and edged with wallpaper border and then varnished with clear polyurethane. they make effective and decorative furniture, which will tie in beautifully with your room scheme. An alternative to expensive antique plant pots is to buy terracotta ones and again paint with colour and seal with clear polyurethane.

A pegboard livens up a dull wall and when painted and bordered with paper looks as if it’s meant to be there. Half-inch thick insulating board—again cut to required size— is super stuff for pinning notices on.

The bed is covered in brown velvet and scatter cushions. Everyone knows it’s a bed, but it doesn’t have to look like one and this way successfully forms an integral part of the room. An ugly wardrobe can dominate a bed-sitter, but is usually a necessary evil. Given the same treatment —paint, wallpaper trim — it actually looks pleasant and merges effectively with the wall.

Judging by the jumble of sticks and pots in most girls’ bedrooms, storage space for jewellery and make-up is also a problem. Barbara’s cheap, chic and neat answer to this is a tin tool-box, stocked by most hardware shops. Painted and varnished, it looks really effective.

Text by Gwenda Saar.

All items from Biba, unless otherwise stated. Model’s clothes from Biba.

Photographs by Manfred Vogelsanger.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, February 1973.

Bamboo hat-stand from a junk shop. Dried grasses from a selection at Harrods. Tin tool chest, with plastic drawers, from Woolworth or Biba, £1.75, painted with Biba Brown Flat Oil, £1.80 per litre, and coated with clear varnish.
Noticeboard made from half-inch thick insulating board, cut to size, painted with Biba Brown Flat Oil, £1.80 per litre, edged with wallpaper border.

Flower Face

1970s, bianchini, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, pierre cardin, Vogue

Flower face, eyebrows powdered out and eyes shadowed deeper, brighter; the heart of Cardin’s morning glory dress of Bianchini organza finely pleated into a double ruff to frame the head. Make-up by Gil of Geminesse.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1970.

Bare Essentials

19 magazine, 1970s, Abecita, che guevara, Derber, Fenwick, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, janet reger, lingerie, mary quant, platforms, Sacha, shoes, universal witness, Vintage Editorials
Orange and white spotted bra and pants by Mary Quant. Blue leather shoes with sequin encrusted heels and platforms from Derber. / Blue and white spotted bra and pants set by Mary Quant. Black and white spotted peeptoe shoes from Biba. Black patent leather shoes covered with fake diamonds and silver leather shoes with silver sequins on heels and platforms, both by Derber. Blue felt hat with embroidered flower from Universal Witness.

Your poor old great grandma used to wear corsets with lots of complicated lacing and back-piercing whale bones! Fortunately for you, such constricting garments are history, and the accent is now on complete and utter freedom. In fact, you could say underwear has become a second skin – and we prove our point with the following…

It’s nice to know that Harri Peccinotti still has the capacity to blow me away with a new-old photoshoot. Of course, insanely high and sparkly platform shoes and silky underwear plays a large part in that, but the mood he captures is second to none. I wonder if I will ever not believe that this aesthetic is the ultimate?

Photographed by Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1973.

Green silk shorts with leaf print by Janet Reger (matching bra not shown). Blue metallic platform peep toe shoes with silver spot trim by Sacha. / Cream crepe de chine bra and pants, with pink and green cloud print pattern, by Janet Reger. Suede ‘Forties’ platform shoes with beaded sides by Terry de Havilland.
Green, yellow and pale orange striped bra and pants set by Abecita of Sweden. / Gold halter neck bra and shorts set by Abecita of Sweden. Blue felt hat from Universal Witness. Knee socks from Che Guevara.
Both sets by Abecita of Sweden.
Both sets from Fenwick.

Grès by Bailey

1970s, david bailey, Inspirational Images, madame grès, Uncategorized, Vogue
Madame Grès’s canary pleated bra and skirt: Triangle bra top, tied with shoestrings at the neck and back, silk jersey skirt finely pleated over a yellow crepe petticoat. Silk organza overdress baring shoulders. Silk jersey by Racine and organza by Veron.

The Madame Grès exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle is still one of my all-time favourites. I can’t quite believe it was ten years ago – and little did I realise how precious international travel would become!

I was drawn to scan this incredible piece by her today, and when I looked at my post from 2011 I realise that it was one of those I photographed. Well, I pretty much photographed them all, but it was one of the chosen ones for my post. And although my tastes and style have changed somewhat since then, I would still count an original Madame Grès as my holiest of holy grails.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, March 1973.