
Vivienne Lynn modelling for Miners make-up. Looks like she might be wearing Mr Freedom as well. Divine…
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 magazine, April 1972

Vivienne Lynn modelling for Miners make-up. Looks like she might be wearing Mr Freedom as well. Divine…
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 magazine, April 1972

Photographed by Carin Simon.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, March 1975.
Sarah Drummond talks to six talented people about their highly original hang-ups.
CHRISTINE MARTIN hangs shawls in her shop Razzmatazz (12 North End Rd, London W14, 01-603 0514) where she sells ‘Twenties and ‘Forties clothes, and also in her home. Both places are diminutive, but that doesn’t stop Christine from fanning shawls on walls, canopying them over lamp-shades, draping them as bed curtains. “I like shawls because they’re dramatic —but they can be overpowering, too; you must be careful. I like variety, which is why I change them about all the time. I like to make different moods. If someone comes to dinner for the second time, I’ll certainly swop the shawls about for them. I’ve never hung pictures—they’re too expensive. and too many other people hang them. My husband Christopher is an antique dealer specialising in icons so, of course. I hang them. I hang handbags sometimes. too.” Most of Christine’s shawl collection is nineteenth-century oriental, heavily embroidered, made in the East specifically for the European market, not to wear, but to cover pianos and tables. Christine also buys cut velvet shawls. “… and I’m just reaching the stage where if I really like something I don’t want to sell it.” Where do the Martins pick up their stock? “Oh anywhere, everywhere … we’re always tooting about in junk shops. I’ll pay up to £40 for a good shawl now I’ve got the bread.”

KAFFE FASSETT makes needlepoint hangings of magical intricacy and originality. If you see a handsome bearded young man doing petit point on the tube. it’s bound to be Kaffe. His creative energy is astonishing: currently he is working on an exhibition of his paintings to be held in New York, designing knits for Bill Gibb (a job he’s ‘done gloriously for the last six years) and for Ritva. And he’s doing knitting and tapestry designs and patterns for Women’s Home Industries and Tapestry Bazaar—and designing the needlepoint hangings which are made at Weatherall Workshops (Coleford 2102) in Gloucestershire. The day I saw Kaffe. a half-finished jacket was hanging pinned to his studio wall, chrome pins keeping an outstretched arm in place next to the body of the jacket, the pattern infinitely more complex than any piece of marbled paper, all plummy earthy tones. “I’m working it on fourteen needles: it’s good to see the balance of the design, feel how it’s going, and seeing it unfinished spurs me on to continue.” Kaffe is relatively new to actual needlework, though he’s been designing tapestries for some time. “Pamela Harlech who writes for Vogue asked me to design some slippers for her, and they looked great stitched up. Suddenly I thought I’d have a go. I’d always imagined those tapestry chairs you see took a lifetime —I was amazed how easy and how quick needlework can be.” To prove his point, he designed and worked backs and seats for a set of three winged chairs. marvellously mysterious in misty shades of grey, blue and green, based on forests and corals. As we talked Kaffe was stitching a doll’s-house chair, another exquisite forest design, which would set you back £10. whereas a big scale wallhanging could cost up to £2,000. “I’ve always been terribly influenced by the Orient,” Kaffe says. “I can look at patterns on some rugs for hours. Scotland has influenced me, too: there’s an affinity between Scotland and the Orient somewhere.”

JANNIE GOSS is an Australian model, who has lived for the last eight years in London with her architect husband, Ian, their eleven year old daughter. Mini, and a cat. Their flat in Camden Town is big and airy, with white walls. high ceilings and potted geraniums twelve feet tall. Jannie hangs her jewellery on the walls: the effect is bold and beautiful. It’s also highly practical. “The great thing about pinning up jewellery is that I can find it so easily—it’s not just for show: of course I wear the stuff, too. I used to keep my necklaces around a mirror, hopeless because everything became knotted. and you couldn’t get at it in a hurry …I like organised clutter—great areas of space, then areas of things; it makes dusting easier, too. And Ian and I are both keen on a functional as well as decorative environment. I move my jewellery about, to change the shapes and patterns they make, which is fun. I just use ordinary pins. the very long dressmaking ones—anything heavier, like a nail, would mark the walls. I’m a collector by nature, I was buying up Art Deco jewellery before it became fashionable, when it only cost a few bob. I’ve never bought from the antique market, but sometimes at Portobello Road and Oxfam shops; mostly I just nose about in junk shops and jumble sales. People say I’m clever at finding things but for every four looks, only once will You find a piece you really like and want to buy.

OLIVER HOARE‘s house gives you the feeling you’re in the Middle East. You are surrounded by carpets—kelims, to be precise—a dazzling juxtaposition of highly organised patterns and colours. Divans, steps, floors, cushions and wall are all covered with oriental rugs. When people hear about it, they imagine that so many patterns and colours clash. They don’t,” says Oliver. He’s right: the rugs harmonise, like music, and one of the reasons is that all the kelims’ colours are vegetable dyes, so the tones are constant—lots of brick and all the earthy colours. Oliver used to work at Christie’s where he ran the carpet department, but this summer set up on his own to sell Islamic works of art to the Middle East. and Far Eastern objets to Europe and America. “I was brought up with carpets, my father bought masses in Constantinople in the ‘Twenties, and always hung them up. Although I wasn’t terribly interested, something about them had rubbed off on me, and when I went to Christie’s I was immediately put into the carpet department. I became fascinated. I like kelims best of all. These are flat woven rugs, which have always been made by tribes, and it’s a tradition that hasn’t been interfered with or commercialised.” Buying carpets of any kind in the Middle East is an immensely ritualistic business: potential buyers sit for hours in carpet shops sipping tiny cups of Turkish coffee and tea endlessly. Bargaining goes on all day. Although Oliver enjoys this ritual. his business methods are Western. His dealing life means he must travel constantly though he spends as much time as he can in Iran where his caravanserai, on the old silk route, has just been nationalised by the government. Kelim prices have shot up, particularly now that so many are going back to their countries of origin. “Five years ago. you used to buy the really good kelims for £30 or £40. Nowadays, the best are £1,000 or £2,000 —but you can find decorative kelims for between two and three hundred pounds.”

GRAHAM WATSON makes bead curtains that swish exotic-ally as you pass through, like a ‘Twenties shimmy dress, beaded strands trailing in your hair and on your shoulders. His beads can depict your portrait. a fantasy landscape, cinema curtains, an old poster—whatever you want. The curtains are hung in doorways. on walls, around baths. Graham’s clients in-clude Chris Squire of the rock group Yes, photographer David Bailey, and film director Joe Losey. “I started off bead-work when I was at drama school . . . act-ing’s an overcrowded profession, and I found it demoralising,” Graham explains. “I saw a play on television one night, and in the background there was a beaded curtain that looked as though it had some-thing painted on it, I couldn’t quite see. But it intrigued me.” . . . To the extent that the very next day Graham started threading beads him-self. But beads are hard to find in England. and Graham traced the best bead sources to Germany (for wood) and Czechoslovakia (for glass). He declared himself a registered company, and went to work three years ago. “I still import the beads, but we dye most of the colours our-selves, otherwise you’re landed with all the shades you don’t want. I often mix glass and wooden beads, because glass alone is too heavy.” Currently, Graham is working on a huge black and silver portrait of Buster Keaton, and he’s planning a three-dimensional number. If you want a curtain made, and they cost around £120 (door size), you can reach Graham Watson at 13c Cunningham Place. London NW8 (01-286 0891).

PIP RAU is hooked on folk tradition, on the embroideries, colours, prints and patterns of Central Asia and the Middle East. Home is like a bazaar, her shop like a souk where she sells dresses, waist-coats, robes, great pieces of faded cloth, incredibly bright embroideries. Her walls are jam-packed with treasures. and Pip’s body is covered with clothes of tribal designs, too. “I’d never put up pictures.” she says, “hangings do so much more for a room. They’re vibrant and vast and warm. Infinitely cheaper, too. I’ve been collecting ever since I can remember. I love markets. I lived in Israel for ten years. I was married to an Israeli. and travelled all over the Middle East. and now we’re separated I’ve come back to live in London.” So it seemed a natural move to open a shop (Rau Gallery, 36 Islington Green, London N1, 01-359 5337) selling all the things she loves, and it means she can justify her passion for travel. “I plan to go away three or four times a year to find stock,” she says. “My last trip took six weeks; I drove all through Eastern Europe, buying in Romania and Yugoslavia, and on to Turkey and Iran. and then Afghanistan. There are always difficulties at frontiers—you need all the invoices and endless bits of paper. Prices are going up and up. sources are drying up, too, as increasing numbers of people get interested. My customers are very mixed—specialist collectors, or people who fall in love with something. I don’t think clothes like these should ever be altered. Just buy what fits.” Pip hangs dresses and the lighter hangings with drawing pins, and uses tacks for anything heavier. Dresses can cost as much as £50 —an antique, hand-woven heavily embroidered Palestinian wedding dress, for example—and wallhangings vary enormously from small Persian cottons at £4 to kelims and Bokharas (large-scale embroideries on silk) at £230, or kelims for £400.

Pale violet nightdress from Browns.
A heavenly combination of slinky nightwear, mid-Seventies tech and a very welcoming looking bed arrangement. Oh, and Marie Helvin of course. This is very much how I would like to spend the next few weeks, months… in fact, a third of my life!
Italian ‘Cifra’ bed by Vittorio Rossi & Luciano Bertoncini from Heal’s.
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1974.

White satin de lys pujamas by Liliane Dreyfus for Vog.

Pale beige crepe nightdress by Stan Herman for Charnos.

White nightdress by John Kloss for Cira.

19 visualises a Summer Vamp, and make-up is geared for a seductive summer. Shades of Dietrich abound – lips are invitingly red, eyes are lowered and stained with yellows, greens, plums and browns… Our model’s hair was dressed by Jason at Jingles. For a romantic effect we covered it with a black fishnet shawl by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers.
The stunning model is Willy van Rooy, who also happens to be the model that my mannequin is based on. For more background on this connection please click here. Willy is also a very talented designer, so do check out her website http://willyvanrooy.com/ or follow her on Instagram.
Photographed by John Bishop.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, August 1970.

Yellow cheesecloth blouse and matching shirt by Richard Green.
For those lazy, hazy days of summer, nothing is better to hang out in than loose, casual, breezy blouses and skirts. There are masses around to choose from and it seems that the smock top has really gathered strength this summer. Why not? It’s the best kind of top to feel really relaxed and liberated in. Wear it over old jeans, if you’re really the casual type, or over skirts down to ground level. One of the best and most comfortable buys to go with the look is soft cotton espadrilles, with rope soles, like the ones from Bata.
Photographed by David Anthony. Model: Charlotte Martin.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, July 1972.

Green and white gingham blouse and matching long skirt and pinny, all by Spectrum.

Gingham smock and matching skirt (not shown) by David Silverman. Jeans model’s own.

T-shirt from selection at Biba. Smock top in crepe de chine and matching long skirt both by Madrugada. Red tights by Biba. Yellow espadrilles by Bata.

White smock in fine wool by Jenny Hare.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat Magazine, 3rd June 1972.

The gist of this editorial seems to be that only the tinest breasted ladies can wear the Ossies, but I have to respectfully and fundamentally disagree. The Ossie tunic on the cover was, along with some matching trousers, later chosen as The Fashion Museum‘s Dress of the Year 1969.
Blonde model photographed by Mike Berkofsky.
Brunette model photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, November 1968.

Fluffy frilly blouse by Quorum.

Tunic by Ossie Clark.

Red chiffon blouse by John Craig.

Ruffled black dress by Francis Ford.

Low, plungey-neck dress in red satin by James Moncur.

Black crepe sleeveless dress by Susan Barry.

Guy Nicolet, Revlon’s international director: he finds inspiration in a film or a record, a girl he sees in the street or at the theatre, translates the mood into colour and from then on thinks about the bone structure, “the most important feature of a woman’s face”. He has a great sense of fashion, lives a very fashionable life between his gothic Roman house and bishop’s palace in the country, and for him “fashion changes at the same moment for the designer and the visagiste”. His favourite colour is blue, a thousand different blues. Here, opposite, eyes of the water blue reflected from the ceilings of his house on Lake Bracciano. The pastel skin, Perfect Beige Perfect Make-Up dusted with Perfect Powder, from the Ultima II Collection. Eyes shaped with Plum Rose and Orchidaceous Eye Couture ’70 Make-Up, with Sable Plum Lash Make-Up Automatique. New Orange Jade lipstick from the Private Label Collection. Painted leather and bead chokers, by Pablo & Delia at The Shop, Vidal Sassoon, Sloane St. Hair by Oliver at Leonard.
Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Beauty in Vogue, 1970/71

Kaftan dress by Twiggy Dresses
Twiggy’s clothes change with her mood, something reflected noticeably in her Christmas wardrobe which includes beautiful ankle-length dresses in exotic prints and romantic styles in lovely colours. “I really have no particular look that I stick to,’ she confessed. ‘Yesterday I wore an ankle-length dress and today I have on a short one. I buy second-hand clothes if I think the fabrics and prints are beautiful. My wardrobe is really a complete mixture of things. I think that these days people can wear just what they like. There are really no set rules, and I personally feel that that’s very nice.”
During the last two months, Twiggy’s face, once constantly seen in virtually every magazine in the world, has been noticeably absent. “I have almost completely stopped modelling. Although I enjoyed every minute while I was doing it, I’m rather tired of it now. At the moment Justin and I will be working for only one American magazine and one Italian and any other work we want to do. Justin has sold the flat that he had, and is now living in the studio.”
Apart from Twiggy Enterprises in England, they have many business interests in the States selling all sorts of ‘Twiggy’ merchandise. During a visit there, earlier this year, Twiggy made a singing and dancing commercial for American TV which was an enormous success. Her main ambition for the coming year is to make a feature film which Justin will possibly co-produce.
`We almost made a film about eighteen months ago,” explained Justin. ‘Paul McCartney was going to write the music and Ken Russell direct. Then we had enormous trouble with the film rights and eventually had to drop the whole idea. When Twiggy made the American commercial she was so great, and en-joyed making it so much that it got us interested all over again. We’ve talked to various people about ideas for a script, but I can’t tell you anything definite about the story at the moment.”
Twiggy today is very different from the Twiggy of three years ago. She is more beautiful and her hair is longer. “I am desperately trying to grow it,” she says. “I want it to be very, very long.” She has grown up, but her unspoilt personality remains the same. One change Twiggy is very pleased about—she has stopped biting her fingernails. “All of a sudden I noticed that I’d just stopped —and that was that.”
She has a marvellous sense of humour and is interested in a variety of things. She loves reading, especially romantic novels, cinema and theatre, with a bent towards musicals, and pop music; she is a firm fan of the Beatles. She enjoys knitting. “I knit things all the time, for myself and all my friends.” (“Not bad, is she,” said Justin, sporting an original Twiggy knit.) “And I’ve just bought a crochet hook and book of instructions. You don t know how to crochet flowers, do you? It only tells you how to make circles in my book.”
Twiggy moves with the grace of a modern day Garbo. “As narrow as an arrow and as fetching as an etching” is a very apt description. She eats what she wants, is peeved that she can’t put on weight. “I wish I could,” she murmurs, busily demolishing an apricot pie. Another pet peeve of hers is spiders. “I hate spiders. I never kill them, though.”
What does Twiggy want this Christmas? “I don’t know. There’s nothing I really want. Just to be happy. And to make the film next year, that’ll be satisfying.”
Frizzy hairpieces by Joseph at Salon 33.
Photographs by Justin de Villeneuve.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, December 1969.

Black crepe dress with sequins by Twiggy Dresses.

Long printed dress by Twiggy Dresses.

Short blue dress by Twiggy Dresses. Long printed scarf from Emmerton and Lambert.

Long patchwork print dress by Twiggy Dresses.