Leather platform-soled shoe (left), £17.50; sandal, £17, both from Charles Jourdan, 47 Brompton Road, SW1; tights by Quant, 40p at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1.
Take a dekko at the accessories screaming their brilliant way across these pages. Nothing quiet, tasteful or ladylike, about them. Hard shocking pinks grating with parrot green, brilliant turquoise, electric blue, and Elvis Presley metallics. Shooting adrenalin into your get-up, so that you go. Hardly the gear to wear if you want to be a lady spy and overlooked.
Photographed by Marc Leonard.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, January 1972.
Bit of a rescan from about ten years ago, when I only seemed to scan the Terry de Havilland boots and the Derber shoes. Anyway, the whole spread is a delight and deserves to be seen. Also, for the millionth time, no I’m not making up magazines. Vanity Fair was a UK publication of the Sixties and Seventies which got absorbed into Honey magazine in the early Seventies. It has nothing to do with the earlier or later American/International magazine of the same name. Presumably as a defunct magazine name in a different country there were no copyright issues. It was also a work of absolute creative bloody genius in this early Seventies period (see the category tag for other scans, including an editorial by Saul Leiter).
n.b. I have omitted the image alluded to further down in the black and white section but haven’t edited the word so you can see why I have omitted it. My apologies for any offence caused.
Boots by Terry de Havilland, £17.50 and £22.50 at Derber, 79 Wardour Street, W1. Tights by Quant, 40p at Peter Robinson Oxford Circus, W1.
Two shoes by Dianyk, both £8.50 at Derber, 79 Wardour Street.
Belt made from hand woven tweeds, by Nigel Lofthouse, about £7.25 from Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3 .
Striped flat shoe by Pedro Garcia, about £6.95 at Derber’s, 79 Wardour Street, W1; sock by Cacharel, £1.70 at Galeries Lafayette, Regent Street, W1. Watch by Gay Designs, £6.95 at Escalade. Knitted glove, £2 Browns, 27 South Molton St, W1
Knitted hat; and shoebag, by Janice Peskett, both £6 at Countdown, 137 Kings Road, SW3. Plastic rings, £1 each at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1.
‘Fifties sunglasses by Correna, £1.25 at D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; pearls from 75p at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones, Regent St, W1; plastic brooch, 50p at Universal Witness, 167 Fulham Road, SW3; plastic bangles, 45p each at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones.
Hand-woven multi-coloured tweed and leather clutch bag by Nigel Lofthouse, £25 at Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3. Striped peep-toe shoe by Mary Quant £5.50 at R.P Ellen, Oxford Street.
Blue tartan shoe on metallic blue platform, £16.50, tweed shoe, £17.75, both by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, SW3.
Yellow suede belt with paste umbrella buckle by Guy Taplin, £2.80 at Bourne and Hollingsworth. Striped gloves, £1.45 from Miss Selfridge, Duke Street.
Black knitted pedal-pushers, £5, by Crochetta at Knits and Leathers; black plastic shoes £5.99 at Derber; silver and perspex clutch bag by Nigel Lofthouse, £10 from Escalade.
Wide black buckled belt, £10 from Janet Ibbotson, 9 Pond Place SW3; red and black knitted tie by Evelyn Desbrueres for Gay Designs £7 at Escalade; glasses by Correna, £1.50 at Selfridges.
Purple velvet bow tie, £2.50 at James Drew, Burlington Arcade, SW1. Sunglasses by Correna, £1.50 at D H Evans.
Shoe-bag £1 at Knits and Leathers, 5 Harewood Place, W1; turquoise gloves by Kirgloves, 65p at John Lewis, Oxford Street; turquoise plastic bracelet, 77½p at Selfridge, Oxford Street.
Just the jacket, for interviewing the gardener… if he’s as handsome as Ian Knipe. Trille does the Lady Bountiful bit in yellow and a romantic hat. Jacket C&A £9.95, felt hat by Herbert Johnson, pearls by Ciro. Yellow angora sweater by John Craig, £2.10.
There is a licence to touch all the clothes on these pages. There is not a single trad, scratchy, thornproof tweed among any of the frankly tactile silks, angoras and flannels of autumn. Jerseys and pearls and sensible shoes were once the uniform of the WI. Now, (well) kept ladies whose fingers smell of “Cabochard” rather than cabbage, are pressing their flannel bags, having their pearls restrung and are wearing them with shirts so unbuttoned they could catch pneumonia – and heels high enough to rise above the muddiest farmyard. They are taking to pleated kilts, and cashmere sweaters so tight they’d enliven the dullest game of backgammon. Dinner dresses are back in style, and I do mean back down as far as you can go. Properly and provocatively dressed, a weekend in the country might be more fun than you think.
Hair arranged for all pictures by Carl of Molton Brown.
Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.
Photographed by John Kelly.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, October 1972.
Give into the call of the wild, but come on softly in silk, angora and flannel. Jenny Harrington sends Ian Knipe slightly wild in her silk shirt, £15, flannel bags £16.50 by Annacat, and angora cardigan, John Craig £5. Fish pendant by Ciro. Ian’s camelhair sweater Ballantyne, £11.50. (Inset: The smoothest tweed in the softest shape will make you want to throw away your old trench. A great way to look for opening bazaars – and coping with Mellors. Coat by Coopers £33, hat by Herbert Johnson, £8.95.)
What would the WI say? Trille lolls about in cashmere sweater, skirt and pearls- -and shoes too high for country lawns. Sweater £11, skirt £30, both by Ballantyne. Pearls by Ciro. Shoes by Samm, £7.50.
Who’s for backgammon? Trille and Jenny get down to it (right) in necklines that ought to fetch the men from their port, on the double. Trille in red jersey dinner dress, John Bates for Jean Varon £16.75, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95, pearls by Ciro. Jenny in cream satin shirt by Coopers, £8, and pleated plaid skirt, Gor-Ray f11.95. Red shoes by Samm, £7.50.
The sporting life means quick repairs on the run. Jenny puts back the paint, stays ladylike in powder soft suede and silk. Jacket and skirt by Janet Ibbotson; the jacket costs £38, the skirt £33.50. Silk shirt Fenwicks, £11.50. Jewellery and shagreen compact from The Purple Shop. Shoes by Samm, £7.95.
Long weekends can lead to explosive situations – Jenny ignites something in her cashmere and kilt. Sweater by Ballantyne £13.50, skirt by Gor-Ray £11.95, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95. Pearls by Ciro. Ian in ruffled lawn shirt, Turnbull and Asser £11.75, check trousers Irvine Sellars £5.95.
By dawn’s early light a lady likes to relax. Ian wears C & A velvet suit £28; Trille in taffeta skirt and blouse, £5.50 each from Spectrum. Rose 84p from Spectrum. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, £12.99.
The softest touch of all is this mohair sweater (right), and a far cry from the clumpy rustic knits we used to wear. Jenny puts the new country clothes together gently—pink sweater, Buckle Under £12, pink wool skirt, Spectrum £6.95, hat by Herbert Johnson £7.50. Ian’s shirt by Jasper £5.50, check trousers £6.95 by Irvine Sellars. (Inset: Soft again —cream flannel blouse and satin trousers whipped up with beads and roses. Jenny’s blouse £5.50, trousers £5.50, flowers 84p, all from Spectrum. Ian’s blue shirt by Mr Harry £7.65.)
Striped woollen poncho skirt by Beatrice Bellini for WHI. Chamois lace-up blouse by Janet Ibbotson. Lace up suede boots by Anello and Davide. Leather and bead necklace by Feathers.
Not only does leather feel good, it smells delicious, like a trip out West. Suede and chamois are even better than leather because they are so much softer and easier tow ear. They’re not as expensive as they used to be. Cheap they will never be if you want value for your money. Leather, properly looked after, lasts for age; in fact, the more beaten up and old it looks the better. So when it comes to buying remember that and invest in something safe – like the clothes photographed on these pages. Thy are not desperately in fashion but, on the other hand, they are not out and never will be…
Fashion by Caroline Baker. Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
Scanned from Nova, October 1970.
Midi pigskin wrarpover skirt and long fitted jacket both by Beged’Or. Lace up suede boots from Anello and Davide.Suede midi waistcoat and pants by Friitala. Brown wool shirt at Feathers. Leather and bead necklace at Feathers. Felt hat by Bermona. Stripey belts at Herbert Johnson.Leather and rabbit midi waistcoat by Skinflair. Handwoven cotton blouse from Fifth Avenue. Flared blue jeans by Levis.Suede jeans by Newman at Spotlight. Argentinian wool poncho – similar available at Mexicana and at Inti. Cow print velour hat by Bermona. Patent boots from Sacha.Chamois fringed midi dress and beaded headband both at Battle Of The Little Big Horn.Suede lace up dress to order at Pourelle. Poncho by Village Squares. Boots by Anello and Davide.Fake snake velvet jeans by Newman at Feathers. Silk satin snake shirt to order at Lizzie Carr. Woven sash belts at Herbert Johnson.
Oh I do so love finding a ‘new’ video such as this on Youtube – many thanks to the uploader. Promoting the 1974 London Fashion Show at Earls Court (featuring designs by Frank Usher and Bernshaw in the footage) it then moves to a variety of locations (Trafalgar Square, Regent’s Canal, random studio, back to Trafalgar Square…) to promote clothes by legends such as Ossie Clark, Bill Gibb, Lee Bender for Bus Stop, Yuki, Stirling Cooper and ‘Kate Hamnett’ for Tuttabankem, it also features the underrated [and somewhat forgotten] designers Jane Cattlin and Janet Ibbotson. Enjoy!
Oh I do love a good map. Especially a fantastically illustrated map of all my favourite shops in London in 1971. It is the nearest I will ever come to being able to walk around them. Sadness ensues…
Liz Eggleston 