Inspirational Editorials: Knits, socks and clogs

1970s, alice pollock, alistair cowin, biba, british boutique movement, Chelsea Antiques Market, crowthers, Donald Davies, elisabeth novick, Grade One, harold ingram, Harrods, Inspirational Images, Jan Jensen, John Craig, kensington market, Margaret Howell, Mayfair Market, moyra swan, quorum, stop the shop, The Sweet Shop, Toto, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Puff sleeve sweater from Harrods. Small turquoise Acrilan bib sweater at Stop the Shop. Both by John Craig. Khaki ribbed bermuda shorts by Donald Davies. Tapestry clog boots by Jan Jensen.

Puff sleeve sweater from Harrods. Small turquoise Acrilan bib sweater at Stop the Shop. Both by John Craig. Khaki ribbed bermuda shorts by Donald Davies. Tapestry clog boots by Jan Jensen.

A perfect winter look.

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, February 1971.

Dusty pink puff sleeved sweater over a beige linen sweater. Both by Harold Ingram. Thick purple wool trousers at Biba. Striped socks, Ruskin at Kensington Market. Knit cap by Margaret Howell at The Sweet Shop. Rose in glass pin, Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Jacquard sweater by Toto at branches of Crowthers. Mushroom beige sweater underneath by Harold Ingram. Royal blue cashmere shorts, McGregor of Dublin. Over the knee socks by Donald Davies.

Dusty pink puff sleeved sweater over a beige linen sweater. Both by Harold Ingram. Thick purple wool trousers at Biba. Striped socks, Ruskin at Kensington Market. Knit cap by Margaret Howell at The Sweet Shop. Rose in glass pin, Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Jacquard sweater by Toto at branches of Crowthers. Mushroom beige sweater underneath by Harold Ingram. Royal blue cashmere shorts, McGregor of Dublin. Over the knee socks by Donald Davies.

Vest and pullover both by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Pink knitted shorts by Alistair Cowin at Grade One. All clogs from Mayfair Market. Puff sleeved sweater in stripes of tuqouoise, pink and navy, acrylic tibbed dark blue polo neck undeneath, dark blue knitted trousers rolled up. All by John Craig at Stop the Shop.

Vest and pullover both by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Pink knitted shorts by Alistair Cowin at Grade One. All clogs from Mayfair Market. Puff sleeved sweater in stripes of tuqouoise, pink and navy, acrylic tibbed dark blue polo neck undeneath, dark blue knitted trousers rolled up. All by John Craig at Stop the Shop.

Inspirational Illustrations: Love Through the Letterbox

1970s, Honey Magazine, Illustrations, malcolm bird
You can always tell when September's here by the sight of my friend Susie. She gets a sort of look, and the postman starts to steer clear of her. It's the month when she finally realises that Alfonso is far from pining away for her in the Catalonian autumn. In fact, he's probably chatting up some other bird who is blind enough to take him seriously.

You can always tell when September’s here by the sight of my friend Susie. She gets a sort of look, and the postman starts to steer clear of her. It’s the month when she finally realises that Alfonso is far from pining away for her in the Catalonian autumn. In fact, he’s probably chatting up some other bird who is blind enough to take him seriously.

Completely and utterly glorious set of illustrations by the wonderful Malcolm Bird, scanned from Honey, December 1970. They accompany a long article, but I have just left small excerpts under each image. His illustration style is one of the most distinctive and perfect: from the eyes, to the hair, to the detail in the Celia Birtwell-esque prints you see here.

It seems to me that people who've been to boarding school are especially prone to the long-distance habit.

It seems to me that people who’ve been to boarding school are especially prone to the long-distance habit.

How can any Englishman compete with a vision in leopard-skin bathing trunks, cavorting on the beach at sun-kissed Lasagne al Forno?

How can any Englishman compete with a vision in leopard-skin bathing trunks, cavorting on the beach at sun-kissed Lasagne al Forno?

I suspect, though, that the couples who make a success of a love affair at a distance are the real old-fashioned romantics. They're the pink-ribbon people who write to each other every day and keep their correspondence under the pillow at night.

I suspect, though, that the couples who make a success of a love affair at a distance are the real old-fashioned romantics. They’re the pink-ribbon people who write to each other every day and keep their correspondence under the pillow at night.

By the time the vacation ends he's getting a bit fidgety. When you mention coming to see him he mumbles about catching up on his work. You arrive a month later, to his consternation, and grudgingly get a cup of tea in the awful referctory building. He spends the whole time talking to the girl who's sitting next to him. British Railways won't be seeing you on the Western Region again.

By the time the vacation ends he’s getting a bit fidgety. When you mention coming to see him he mumbles about catching up on his work. You arrive a month later, to his consternation, and grudgingly get a cup of tea in the awful refectory building. He spends the whole time talking to the girl who’s sitting next to him. British Railways won’t be seeing you on the Western Region again.

And as for Pat? There he sat nightly in a lonely bedsit, pining for his Laura. He sent her letters every day and occasionally made use of Interflora.

And as for Pat? There he sat nightly in a lonely bedsit, pining for his Laura. He sent her letters every day and occasionally made use of Interflora.

 

Inspirational Editorials: Pretty Cute

19 magazine, 1970s, David Fielden, Essences, Inspirational Images, Ivory, Marida, Salvet, Sue Leighton, Tom Leighton, Vintage Editorials, Vivienne Lynn
Cream tiered dress and matching bolero from Essences. Shoes by Ivory.

Cream tiered dress and matching bolero from Essences. Shoes by Ivory.

As a complete contrast to this season‘s brightly-coloured outfits, here are some really delicate and feminine, pastel-coloured dresses. They can be worn for a variety of occasions when dressing up is a must — even on your wedding day, if you’rc looking for something different. You can buy them new or you could be lucky, as we were, and find one in perfect condition in a second-hand shop. However, these dresses are quite expensive, second-hand clothes do tend to be over-priced in London, so keep an eye out for equally stunning outfits in your local secondhand shop.

Photographed by Tom Leighton. Props by Sue Leighton. Hair by Rocky at The Model Agency. Model is Vivienne Lynn.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, March 1979

Pale blue strapless dress by Salvet. Shoes by Ivory.

Pale blue strapless dress by Salvet. Shoes by Ivory.

Ice blue blouse and matching skirt by David Fielden. Sandals by Midas.

Ice blue blouse and matching skirt by David Fielden. Sandals by Midas.

White cotton dress with lace by David Fielden. Hat by Marida. Sandals by Ivory.

White cotton dress with lace by David Fielden. Hat by Marida. Sandals by Ivory.

Got the Glitterbug…

1960s, 1970s, british boutique movement, chelsea girl, georgina linhart, Jaeger, Marnie Fogg, personal collection, quorum, wallis
Glitterbug (1972) from Marnie Fogg's Boutique

Glitterbug (1972) from Marnie Fogg’s Boutique

For some reason, I have shied away from posting about my collection much in recent years. I suppose it’s always been somewhat fluid; things come and go when times are hard or when something better comes along. But recently I acquired something which had always been a bit of a ‘holy grail’ for me, and it reminded me of exactly why I love fashion history, collecting and researching.

One of the most important books on my road to total geekery was Marnie Fogg’s Boutique: A ’60s Cultural Icon. Amazon kindly (and terrifyingly) informs me that I purchased it exactly ten years ago. Although clearly not comprehensive, something I am now realising is probably impossible, it was my main gateway into understanding the boutique phenomenon as a whole. I already knew many of the designers – and was delighted to see how much space was dedicated to John Bates – but several were new names to me. One of these was Georgina Linhart. Another graduate of St Martin’s College of Art and Design, Linhart set up her label in 1964 and, while she was frequently featured in the top magazines of the period, her business only ran for ten years. She later worked for Quorum, Jaeger, Wallis and Chelsea Girl. All four of which are favourite vintage labels chez Vintage-a-Peel.

Georgina Linhart, 1970

Georgina Linhart, 1970

The more time went on, the more I realised how rare examples of her work must be these days. My eBay search was empty 99% of the time, and only occasionally turned up magazine features and a couple of jackets. The most distinctive dress pictured in Fogg’s Boutique book was ‘Glitterbug’ (see above). A sequined halterneck mini dress, gossamer light and substantial in its insubstantiality; so quintessentially of its time, the epitome of the permissive age.

So my heart was in my mouth when Glitterbug turned up on eBay a couple of months ago. It was slightly out of my price range at the time, and the recent events in my life had forced me to re-evaluate what was important (and worth getting into debt for). So I sat and watched it. Every day I would log into eBay, with one eye shut, and check if anyone had bought it. Every day it was still there, but my nerves were getting beyond frazzled. So the day I finally felt marginally less broke than normal, was the day I logged in and put in a cheeky best offer. I am impossibly grateful to the seller for accepting it and making my collector dreams come true. It has been a long time coming, and it has come a long way from the USA, but Glitterbug is finally in my collection. Plus, it fits me – which I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t have done ten years ago. What are the odds?

Glitterbug (1972) from my personal collection

Glitterbug (1972) from my personal collection

Inspirational Editorials: The rest of the picture

1970s, accessories, Andreas Heumann, Bags, bill gibb, boots, british boutique movement, che guevara, chelsea cobbler, City Lights, Gloves, Inspirational Images, Marbles, Miloré, Moya Bowler, Nigel Lofthouse, platforms, Rayne, shoes, tights, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
accessories chelsea cobbler shoes andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Chestnut leather walking shoes, edged with ocelot-printed calf from The Chelsea Cobbler

There aren’t many accessories shoots worthy of scanning – the majority tend to be fairly static and unimaginative. So kudos to Andreas Heumann for this gorgeous set of pictures which manage to do justice to the contents.

Photographed by Andreas Heumann. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, September 1973

accessories nigel lofthouse bag andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Cream suede handbag with stitched appliques by Nigel Lofthouse at Che Guevara; City Lights Studio. Cream kid gloves by Bill Gibb for Miloré

accessories Clive Shilton bag andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Cinnamon suede clutch bag by Clive Shilton.

accessories gibb gloves andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Marbled scarf by Marbles. Marbled leather gloves by Bill Gibb for Miloré

accessories moya bowler boots andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Black suede ankle boots, furred and laced, by Moya Bowler.

accessories rayne brogues andreas heumann vogue  sept 73

Honey suede crocodile print calf lace-ups from Rayne.

Inspirational Illustrations: Jean Muir, 1969

1960s, 1970s, David Wolfe, fortnum and mason, Harpers Bazaar, Illustrations, Inspirational Images, jean muir, Vintage Adverts

muir bazaar oct 1969

Jean Muir thinks… then designs… and creates a fashion role of pure allure. Enter the Intellectual Seductress. Panther-like grace in a long, lean look. Colours sombre, yet potent, slithered clotsely over the body. Eve, circa 1970, wittily playing serpentine print against the real thing.

Illustrated by David Wolfe. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers Bazaar, October 1969

Inspirational Images: Silver Screen

1970s, british boutique movement, bus stop, lee bender, petticoat magazine

bus stop alain walsh december 71

Play at being a sparkling sexy Forties’ star. Outshine them all in this silver waistcoat and matching turban from Bus Stop. Wear it with a slinky black velvet or satin pants. Glitter up your eyelids and put a sprinkling of litter on your cheekbones. Bring your hair forward in curls under the turban, pop on a dark plummy lipstick, and you’ll really look like a super Forties’ star.

Photographed by Alain Walsh. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, December 1971

Mild Sauce: Janet Reger by Duffy

1970s, brian duffy, Inspirational Images, janet reger, mild sauce

duffy girls 1

Further adventures in mild sauce by Duffy for the Janet Reger catalogue.

Undated, probably from the early Seventies. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Chastity in Focus, 1980.

duffy girls 2

Inspirational Images: Marc Bohan for Dior

1970s, Architecture, christian dior, Inspirational Images, Marc Bohan, norman parkinson, Vogue
"I have to have the best. Life is too short without it. What I really love is simple perfection..."

“I have to have the best. Life is too short without it. What I really love is simple perfection…”

Marc Bohan in the courtyard of his apartment, with ” a completely different look for evening… It’s casual but very exciting. The whole thing has an idea of throwaway luxe which I love…” coral crepe lamé smock, deeper coral crepe georgette camisole over cigarette straight trousers.

Really this is more about inspirational architecture. How extraordinary is that courtyard? Like something from a fantasy film. Does it still exist? Anyone?

Photographed by Norman Parkinson. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, September 1974

Inspirational Images: Givenchy

1970s, david bailey, Givenchy, Inspirational Images, Vogue

givenchy bailey vogue sept 72

Ensemble by Givenchy. Photographed by Bailey. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, September 1972