Bottoms Up

1970s, alistair cowin, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, Big Scene, Dorothy Perkins, gillian richard, gladrags, Guy Cross, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Jacqmar, Miss Impact, ossie clark, radley, ravel, Rodger Bass, Russell & Bromley, Shelana, Titfers, Toto, Vintage Editorials
Deep purple Polyester button-through romper suit, Dorothy Perkins, £3.95 (79s.); rust and blue rose patterned cotton mixture vest, Toto, £6.25 (£6 5s.); purple panne velvet plumed cloche, Titfers, £8. / Pillar-box red cotton jersey and Vincel dungarees, trimmed with yellow, £7, and bright sun-shine high-necked shirt, £5, both by Alistair Cowin. / Brick and rust moon-in-orbit sweater, Toto, £4.50 (£4 10s.); calico midi skirt with coloured nursery print border, Alistair Cowin, £8; beige suede ankle strap shoes, Ravel, £3.99 (£,3 19s. 9d.); dolls’ house patterned cloche, Titfers, £1.75 (35s.). / Scarlet jersey pinafore dress with yellow appliqued apples, Rodger Bass, £9.50 (£9 10s.); tangerine, blue and purple striped sweater, Miss Impact, £4.20 (4 gns.). / Dusty pink Acrylic jacquard jacket, £5.25 (5 gns.), and matching gauchos, £3.50 (£3 10s.), both by Gillian Richard; red panne velvet Wee Willie Winkle hat, trimmed with an apple, Titfers, £4.20 (4 gns.).

At last we’ve reached the bottom – the latest erogenous zone to be limelighted by shiny shorts, skin-tight jumpsuits and all kinds of sexy bum-huggers.

Interesting to note the dual pricing as the UK adjusted to decimalisation, and also that the Radley outfit in the photo below is actually an Ossie Clark design (I’ve seen it pop up with the Ossie for Radley label) but wasn’t properly credited as such.

Photographed by Guy Cross.

Scanned from Honey, March 1971.

Navy and scarlet polka dot cotton boiler suit, Alistair Cowin, about £4; plain pink suede boots, Biba, £8.97½ (£8 19s. 6d.). / Shiny pink cotton satin dungaree shorts, £6.50 (£6 10s.), and multi-coloured cotton nightsky printed shirt with drawstring neck, £9, both by Gladrags; sheer pink tights, Twiggy, £1; wine wedge-heeled shoes, Russell & Bromley; purple silk headscarf, Jacqmar, £2.37½ (47s. 6d.). / Slippery royal blue satin acetate shorts with bib top and scarlet satin patch pockets, Shelana, `£5.25 (5 gns.); red and blue running vest, Syndica, £3.15 (3 gns.); shiny pink tights, Twiggy, £1; wine suede wedge-heeled shoes, Russell & Bromley; burgundy silk scarf, Jacqmar, £2.37½ (47s. 6d.). / Ritzy yellow moss crêpe fitted jacket and black skirt with red, yellow and black inverted pleats, Radley, £14; black peep toe shoes, £4.99 (99s. 9d.). / Lilac and grape shady lady printed jersey pinafore with lilac shirt top, Big Scene, £8; maroon leather criss-cross sandals, Ravel, £5.97½ (£5 19s. 6d.).

Let Yourself Go

1970s, 2007, alistair cowin, corocraft, David Finch, gillian richard, Inspirational Images, just looking, Lena Stengard, petticoat magazine, Pinet, Pourelle, Sacha, Shelana, Sue Hone, Vintage Editorials, way in, Xanthe leathers
Voile skirt, Pourelle, (with matching blouse), £18.18s., from Sidney Smith, S.W.3., Spotlight, W.1. Peasant blouse, by Alistair Cowin, £5.15s., Peter Robinson, W.I., Fifth Avenue, S.W.3. Thonged sandals, £2.2s., Xanthe Leather, N.W.3.

If there’s one time in the year when a girl can really let herself go—it’s on a hot summer holiday evening, And what better clothes to let yourself go in than these? Be a bit flamboyant with your fabrics, now’s the time for chiffon and clinging velvet and the styles that only need a suntan for company!

Model is Lena Stengard.

Styled by Sue Hone.

Photographed by David Finch.

Scanned from Petticoat, 18th July 1970.


Printed midi dress with long fringing, Gillian Richard, £10 10s., from all branches of Irvine Sellars, Just In, and Marshall and Snelgrove, W.I. Roman sandals. £2.2s., from Xanthe Leather, and Pussy Cat, Cambridge. Beaded belt, Way In, S.W.1.
Cotton voile dress. Shelana, £4.19s.6d., from 2007, W1., and Manchester. Biba brooch, £4.5s., worn on a chain.
Pourelle voile jacket and pants, £16.16s.. from Just Looking, S.W.3. Miss Pinet sandals, £4.19s.11d. Corocraft watch, £14.10s.
Midi velvet halter-neck dress, Shelana, £10.19s.6d., from 2007, W.1. Corocraft silver and amethyst necklace, £1.5s., and ring, 7s.9d. Sacha sandals, £9.9s.
Midi cotton jersey dress with printed hem, with scarf, by Gillian Richard, £5.10s., from all branches of Irvine Sellars. Consortium belt, £2.10s. Booty silver bangle; £12.10s.

A Clutch of Bags

1970s, alistair cowin, Angela at London Town, bags, biba, caroline smith, Elle, flair magazine, gordon king, Herbert Johnson, Illustrations, Pierre Elegante, Sujon, Titfers
From left to right: Black satin Oxford bags, Angela at London Town £5; black satin clutch bag with rhinestone star, Titfers £8. Orange and red blanket check pure wool bags with turn ups, Pierre Elegante £8; yellow felt clutch bag with navy satin trim and flower button, Titfers £4. Wool gaberdine rust Oxford bags with winged pockets and turn ups, Gordon King £7.50; navy felt clutch bag with white anchor and white satin trim, Titfers £4; cotton kerchief square 40p, Herbert Johnson. Rust two toned patterned wool tweed trousers with turn ups, Biba £5.50; Black suede clutch bag with rust suede trim, Biba £7.75. Red acrylic wool Oxford bags, Alistair Cowin £6.50; black blue and beige chevron felt clutch bag, Titfers, £4.20. Rust brown and ochre checked wool tweed bags with turn ups, Sujon £9.50; golden suede clutch bag with tortoiseshell flap, Elle £12.50.

This autumn there are bags everywhere: Oxford ones on your pins and clutch ones in the hand. The return of the straight trouser has brought with it wing lapelled jackets with padded shoulders and neat waistcoats. Underneath, a feminine touch to soften the butch look, blouses with floppy painters’ bows. And don’t forget your clutch bag tucked neatly under your arm.

Illustration by Caroline Smith.

Scanned from Flair, November 1971.

WHAT KIND OF GIRL ARE YOU?

19 magazine, 1960s, alistair cowin, annacat, biba, bus stop, celia birtwell, Daniel Hechter, Foale and Tuffin, fulham road clothes shop, guy and elizabeth, hung on you, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, Lawrence Corner, lee bender, liberty, liberty's, lilley and skinner, Maxwell Croft, ossie clark, Pierre D'Alby, quorum, ravel, Roger Nelson, Ronald Keith, sally levison, Stephanie Farrow, Susan Handbags, sylvia ayton, wallis, Weathergay, zandra rhodes
Cancer: Long Victorian styled dress with high neck in coffee cotton lace trimmed with white, by Annacat, 25gns.

Whether you believe in star signs or not, this lovely editorial is certainly fun to browse. Pretty happy with my Cancerian Annacat dress, modelled by Stephanie Farrow, but greatly envy the Aries and Scorpio threads.

(Also, please don’t shout at me about the furs. I don’t like them either but it would be weird to leave out Leo and Aquarius. Just pretend they’re fake…)

Photographed by Guy and Elizabeth

Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1969.

Leo: Red fox knee length coat by Maxwell Croft, 259gns. Red wig from Beyond The Fringe.
Virgo: White jersey dress with brown snakeskin shoulders and belt by Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes, approx 8gns. Mottled chiffon scarf from Liberty. Brown leather boots by Lilley and Skinner, £6 19s. 6d.
Libra: Long brown crepe dresswith medieval claret-coloured velvet sleeves by Roger Nelson at 94, 9gns.
Scorpio: Metallic blue leather jacket with zip front by Ossie Clark for Quorum, 25gns. Chiffon scarf by Biba, 18s. Red jersey trousers by Wallis, £3 19s 11d. Leather boots by Lilley and Skinner.
Sagittarius: Fake horse jacket with leather elbows and trim, by Daniel Hechter for Weathergay 15gns. Herringbone trousers by Alistair Cowin at Grade One, £3 19s. 6d. Beige ribbed sweater 4½gns. Matching beret, 39s 11d. Both by Sally Levison Originals.
Capricorn: Beige rayon crepe trouser suit by Foale and Tuffin, 20½gns. Pink chiffon scarf by Biba, 18s 9d. Brown leather brogues by Ronald Keith, 6gns.
Aquarius: Maxi fur coat by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs, 150gns. Black hat by Biba, 25s. Worn underneath, black maxi jersey dress with snakeskin waistband by Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes, approx 8gns.
Pisces: Beautifully cut white raincoat by Foale and Tuffin, 16½gns. Boots to order by Ravel Studio, 19gns.
Aries: Brown suede fringed waistcoat, £7, with matching printed moccasins, £2. From Hung On You. Deep red satin blouse by Biba, £2 15s 6d. Brown cord trousers by Alistair Cowin at Grade One, 5gns. Narrow headscarf by Celia Birtwell for Quorum, 1gn.
Taurus: Blue rayon georgette, high-waisted dress with baby ribbon trim by John Bates for Jean Varon, 13gns.
Gemini: Green army surplus hat, 9s. 9d., and beige jacket, 11s. 9d., both from Lawrence Corner. Beige gabardine knickerbocker suit, by Pierre D’Alby, 14gns. Brown stockings from Mary Davies, 35s. Brown leather brogues by Ronald Keith, 6gns. Shetland Fair Isle beret, 25s. and scarf, 29s. 11d. by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Leather shoulder bag by Susan Handbags, 7gns.

The Spirit of Christmas

19 magazine, 1970s, alistair cowin, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, charlotte martin, Elliott, Feathers, Foale and Tuffin, gillian richard, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Leslie Poole, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials
Silk lace dress with boxer shorts underneath by Poole at Shape. Shoes by Biba. Choker and fake violets from John Lewis.

Rich renaissance colours in velvet, lace and crepe reflect the mood for Christmas. Emphasis is on the shape of the body – necklines plunge, backs are bared, and skirts are slit in a demure, but wanton, fashion.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1970.

Crepe dress in black, mauve and green by Alistair Cowin. Shoes from Biba.
Plum silk lace wrap over blouse with matching waist ties by Poole at Shape. Gored skirt in deep green velvet by Foale and Tuffin. Shoes from Biba.
Charcoal green dress and crepe shoes all from Biba.
Velvet cap from Feathers. Veiling from John Lewis. Crepe dress by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Elliott.
Lilac velvet cap from Feathers. Blue Tricel wrap over top and flared skirt both by Poole at Shape. Shoes from Biba.
Brown, beige and rust panne velvet dress by Gillian Richard. Black shoes by Elliott.


Go To Blazers

1970s, alistair cowin, bus stop, david montgomery, Electric Fittings, gala, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent

go to blazers 1

Heavy red cotton blazer, red bows on white voile shirt, blue check shorts, all by Electric Fittings.

Five looks gone to blazers here, five separate ways to be wearing them all summer through – with baggy Oxford bags, check shorts, short trousers, pleated skirts. Other best things to go with blazers are fake flowers, cloche hats, shady straws, veiling, hair nets, print shirts, a bevy of built up shoes. Go get a blazer.

Photographed by David Montgomery. Modelled by Gala Mitchell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, May 1971

go to blazers 2

Long double breasted white cotton brocade blazer, fuchsia velvet cloche, petrol green crepe pleated skirt, all at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

go to blazers 3

Navy denim blazer, navy, ivory and scarlet plaid seersucker bags, white polka dot scarlet acrylic shirt, all at Bus Stop.

go to blazers 4

Navy denim blazer pin striped extra fine, white with navy stripe trousers, both by Alistair Cowin.

go to blazers 5

Champagne satin blazer in bow print, blue print Chinese alphabet short dungarees, both by Electric Fittings. Sandals and tomato tights at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

Playsuits: All at Sea

1970s, alistair cowin, Buckle Under, bus stop, Copper Coin, hans feurer, liberty, ravel, stirling cooper, Titfers, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

Playsuits all at see - Hans Feurer - Vogue - May 71 - a

Sundress in deep blue rayon crepe with matching shorts by Stirling Cooper. Bikini in hand by Alistair Cowin. Sandals by Ravel.

Simply wizard playsuits. Sundresses with slightly flared shorts. Plenty of straps crossing bare backs. Lots and lots of buttons. Super colours. Cotton, crepe and jersey. Wish you were here and looking like this.

Photographed by Hans Feurer.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, May 1971.

Playsuits all at see - Hans Feurer - Vogue - May 71 - f

Playsuit in chocolate jersey, ginger edged. By Copper Coin. Straw hat by Buckle Under. Shoes by Ravel.

Playsuits all at see - Hans Feurer - Vogue - May 71 - b

Sunsuits in Madras patch cotton by Marielle. Sunhats by Titfers. Canvas shoes by Masotti. Right: Playsuit by Bus Stop. Sandals by Ravel.

Playsuits all at see - Hans Feurer - Vogue - May 71 - c

Playsuit in canary yellow on dark brown cotton by Alistair Cowin. Shoes by Ravel.

Playsuits all at see - Hans Feurer - Vogue - May 71 - d

Playsuit in Liberty print by John Marks. Liberty flower hat by Titfers Shoes by Ravel.

Playsuits all at see - Hans Feurer - Vogue - May 71 - e

Playsuit by Toto.

Happily Ever After

1970s, alistair cowin, Buckle Under, charles jourdan, Elliott, erica budd, Foale and Tuffin, gladrags, Guy Humphries, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, kurt geiger, mary quant, Michael Foreman, mr freedom, pablo and delia, Sacha, shape, stirling cooper, terry de havilland, thea porter, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials, zandra rhodes

happily-ever-after-2

White lawn dress printed with butterflies and flowers by Thea Porter. Straw hat by Buckle Under. Red wedge shoes by Kurt Geiger. Belt by Shape.

There’s a good reason why Vanity Fair is possibly my favourite magazine of this period. They were relatively conventional in the 1960s, and would ‘merge’ with Honey magazine around 1972, but in their death knells they were just about the most innovative magazine in the UK. Issues were often themed around ‘issues’, for example this one is entirely themed around break-ups and divorces (including a story on what a divorced man should wear when taking his kid out for the day).

Nor did they shy away from more expensive designer names, such as Thea Porter and Zandra Rhodes here, mixing them happily with the more affordable but still iconic boutique names like Stirling Cooper and Mr Freedom. Adding Foale and Tuffin, Pablo and Delia and Terry de Havilland into the mix for good measure, and all those stunning illustrations by Michael Foreman… this is one of my favourite editorials of all time.

Vanity Fair is also, frankly, a nightmare to scan because it falls apart at the binding with the lightest touch, which is why I don’t scan them as often. So enjoy the heaven of Harri Peccinotti’s work while I gently shuffle all the pages back into the magazine…

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Illustrations by Michael Foreman.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, April 1971.

happily-ever-after-1

Long grey crepe dress patterned with purple, green and red birds by Shape. Pablo and Delia suede thong necklace. Blue suede shoes at Sacha.

happily-ever-after-3

Beige suede skirt with applique shapes and matching shawl by Mary Quant. Necklace from Buckle Under. Beige suede boots by Guy Humphries.

happily-ever-after-4

Blue and white feather printed chiffon dress by Zandra Rhodes.

happily-ever-after-5

Left to right: Chiffon blouse and multi-coloured skirt by Foale and Tuffin. Painted rainbow shoes from Mr Freedom. Painted belt by Shape. // Cream and red jersey catsuit (top only showing) and banded red and cream skirt both from Stirling Cooper. Red shoes by Kurt Geiger. // Cream, yellow and red jersey dress by Stirling Cooper. Pull on hat by Janice Peskett. // Red cotton t-shirt by Erica Budd. Cream dungarees from Stirling Cooper. Red python sandals at Elliotts.

happily-ever-after-6

Above: Mauve satin cotton pinafore dress and blouse by Gladrags. Right: Bottom half of Alistair Cowin calico trousers with green printing. Green and yellow shoes by Terry de Havilland. Far right: Black velvet dungarees with white satin applique heart from Mr Freedom. Chiffon blouse from Foale and Tuffin. Mauve canvas boots at Charles Jourdan.

Designer Focus: Alistair Cowin

19 magazine, 1960s, alistair cowin, british boutique movement, Designer Focus, John Carter

Alistair Cowin photographed by John Carter for 19 Magazine, April 1969

Alistair Cowin photographed by John Carter for 19 Magazine, April 1969

You might not have heard of Alistair Cowin before. Like many other superbly talented designers in the 1960s and 1970s, he has rather fallen off the radar in recent years. But all it takes is a little article from a contemporary magazine, and an original garment, and I’m hooked. I’ve just listed this dress over on Vintage-a-Peel, and it’s a beauty. A vision in white chiffon, and very reminiscent of designs by his contemporaries John Bates and Gerald McCann. I only have one other piece by Cowin so far, so I think it’s safe to say his work doesn’t show up very often. And how often does a wearable collectable piece, in a non-teeny tiny size ever pop up?

Available now over at Vintage-a-Peel.co.uk

Alistair Cowin 1960s chiffon mini dress at Vintage-a-Peel

Alistair Cowin 1960s chiffon mini dress at Vintage-a-Peel

Inspirational Editorials: Knits, socks and clogs

1970s, alice pollock, alistair cowin, biba, british boutique movement, Chelsea Antiques Market, crowthers, Donald Davies, elisabeth novick, Grade One, harold ingram, Harrods, Inspirational Images, Jan Jensen, John Craig, kensington market, Margaret Howell, Mayfair Market, moyra swan, quorum, stop the shop, The Sweet Shop, Toto, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

Puff sleeve sweater from Harrods. Small turquoise Acrilan bib sweater at Stop the Shop. Both by John Craig. Khaki ribbed bermuda shorts by Donald Davies. Tapestry clog boots by Jan Jensen.

Puff sleeve sweater from Harrods. Small turquoise Acrilan bib sweater at Stop the Shop. Both by John Craig. Khaki ribbed bermuda shorts by Donald Davies. Tapestry clog boots by Jan Jensen.

A perfect winter look.

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, February 1971.

Dusty pink puff sleeved sweater over a beige linen sweater. Both by Harold Ingram. Thick purple wool trousers at Biba. Striped socks, Ruskin at Kensington Market. Knit cap by Margaret Howell at The Sweet Shop. Rose in glass pin, Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Jacquard sweater by Toto at branches of Crowthers. Mushroom beige sweater underneath by Harold Ingram. Royal blue cashmere shorts, McGregor of Dublin. Over the knee socks by Donald Davies.

Dusty pink puff sleeved sweater over a beige linen sweater. Both by Harold Ingram. Thick purple wool trousers at Biba. Striped socks, Ruskin at Kensington Market. Knit cap by Margaret Howell at The Sweet Shop. Rose in glass pin, Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Jacquard sweater by Toto at branches of Crowthers. Mushroom beige sweater underneath by Harold Ingram. Royal blue cashmere shorts, McGregor of Dublin. Over the knee socks by Donald Davies.

Vest and pullover both by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Pink knitted shorts by Alistair Cowin at Grade One. All clogs from Mayfair Market. Puff sleeved sweater in stripes of tuqouoise, pink and navy, acrylic tibbed dark blue polo neck undeneath, dark blue knitted trousers rolled up. All by John Craig at Stop the Shop.

Vest and pullover both by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Pink knitted shorts by Alistair Cowin at Grade One. All clogs from Mayfair Market. Puff sleeved sweater in stripes of tuqouoise, pink and navy, acrylic tibbed dark blue polo neck undeneath, dark blue knitted trousers rolled up. All by John Craig at Stop the Shop.