Antiquarius

Extravaganza

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, Antiquarius, biba, Carla Sklan, Cathee Dahmen, cornucopia, David Anthony, Elliott, Essences, Essenses, forbidden fruit, Gerry Richards, gordon king, Inspirational Images, just looking, Mouche (model), Vintage Editorials
Black beaded hat, with veil and feather trim, made to order, by Gerry Richards from Cornucopia. Red panne velvet dress, from Just Looking, £20.20. Gold, red and black shawl, from Essences, £40. Bangles, from £4. Selected rings, from £1.50. All by Adrien Mann. Cane stool, from Biba, £15.

It’s party time! And there are lots of slinky, exciting numbers around. So all you Christmas sophisticates get moving. Add tops to simple, sleeveless dresses and Hey, Presto! You’ve doubled your party outfits. Search around street markets for strips of exotic fabric — wind them round your head or drape them around your shoulders. Go wildly Eastern by wearing satin pants and sexy, close-fitting blouses. Use a little imagination and transport yourself (and escorts!) into a fantasy world. Can you hear Middle-Eastern music? You’re in the land of The Thousand And One Nights.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Models are Mouche and Cathee Dahmen

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1974.

Cyclamen felt hat, with black beading and feather trim, made to order by Gerry Richards at Cornucopia. Pink cotton shirt, with pink embroidered flower trim, from Forbidden Fruit, £20. Gold lacy bolero, from Biba, £20. Pink satin trousers, with pleated front, made to order from Essences, £15. Gold sandals, from Elliotts, £7.50. Pink and gold slubbed silk scarf, from Cornucopia, £5. Shawls from a selection at Essences. Large lurex cushions, from Biba, from £20. Set of three pink and gold cushions, from Essences, £ 75.

Black satin kimono dress, with blue floral print, by Gordon King, £21.75. Black ostrich feather fan, from Cornucopia, £6. Gilt bracelets, with red stones, from £4. Mock diamond rings, from £1.50. All by Adrien Mann.

Coloured beaded hat, from Carla Sklan at Antiquarius, from £10. Grey cotton blouse, with maroon and cream floral trim, from Forbidden Fruit, £35. Blue and gold shawl, £25. Blue Arab scarf, at waist, £20. Both from Essences. Drop earrings, £3. Silver bangle, £4.50. Both from Tibet House. Coloured glitter rings, by Adrien Mann, from £1.50. Man: Gold net shawl, with solid silver trim, £25. Yellow and silver striped jacket, £12.50. Both from Essences.

White lace shawl, with silver pattern, tied around head, from Essences, £50. Cream banlon dress, with halter neck, from Just Looking, £11.25. White satin blouse, with diarnante and silver trim, £24. Ostrich feather fan, £8. Both from Cornucopia. Diamante brooch, on forehead, from £3. Diamante bangles, from £4. Bracelet, from £4. Small diamante rings, from £1.50. All by Adrien Mann. Shawl from Essences, £25.

Scarf, tied as turban, from a selection at Essences. Brooch, £1.50. Necklace, £2. Both from selection by Adrien Mann.

Their dancing days never stopped

1970s, Antiquarius, barbara daly, Essences, Essenses, Gamba, Inspirational Images, Linda Dagenais, nostalgia, The Golden Age, Vignettes, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, Willie Christie
Flame flowering chiffon, from £10, at Maria’s Stall Vignettes, Antiquarius. Cream rose, from selectioni at Night and Day, Antiquarius.

Model is Linda Dagenais.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Willie Christie.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1974.

Black chiffon, flying leaves in primary colours, £35, at Essenses. Pale pink dancing tights and salmon satin ballet shoes, at Gamba.

Speedcar printed chiffon, sashed and scarfed, £18, at The Golden Age.

Mauve chiffon with scoop neck and puff sleeves, £20, at Nostalgia. Skin coloured chiffon petticoats, from Night and Day, Antiquarius.

Twiggy and Alter Egos

1970s, Antiquarius, barbara daly, barry lategan, bill gibb, Inspirational Images, leonard, twiggy, Vignettes, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, Yuki, zandra rhodes
Twiggy as Twiggy playing up to Bill Gibb’s dress of cream lace and pink satin, separate sleeves of lace ruf-fled over the hands, pulled up over the arms under capes of scalloped frills. £300, to order at Harrods. Cream lace and rosebud posy, by Bill Gibb.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1974.

Twiggy as cool as Grace Kelly, in Zandra Rhodes’ quilted cape, bowed at the neck, with collar of stitched pink satin. To order at Fortnum & Mason. Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Twiggy as haunting as Garbo in black velvet batwings by Yuki, opposite. £220, at Fifth Avenue, Kings Road. Black velvet pillbox with ostrich plumes. £22, to order at Frederick Fox. Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Twiggy as saucy as aflapper in a swagged black beaded dress with flame roses, this page ,from a range at Maria’s Stall Vignettes at Antiquarius. The orange bead snood, from a range at Carla Sklan at Antiquarius. Sheer black Wolford tights. Black lace garter, 39p, at Fenwick. Black patent sandals, £27, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Make-up by Barbara Daly. Hair by Barry at Leonard.

Strike the right cord

19 magazine, 1970s, Antiquarius, bus stop, clobber, coopers, corocraft, Diane Logan, edward mann, Essenses, Fenwick, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, John Craig, lee bender, ravel, Richard Green, Roger Charity, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, Samm, Sheilagh Browne, stirling cooper, universal witness, Vintage Editorials, Viyella
Green suedette pull-on hat, by Edward Mann, £4. Green cord coat, with wrap-over front and wool shawl collar, £13.75. Matching straight skirt, with two hip pockets, £4.75. Both by Stirling Cooper. Green tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Green leather shoes, with slim heels and high flap fronts, from Samm, £9.99. Brown leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Brown leather gloves, with embroidered leather trim, from Universal Witness, £4. Brown and white spotted scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius.

Now you can be spot on by wearing corduroy. This material used to be an essential part of every girl’s wardrobe, but for years it’s been a plain Jane fabric and most unfashionable. This spring, however, cord has made a spectacular comeback, particularly in coordinates. Colours are sludgy, shapes are trim, and it’s a nice, casual fabric that wears well and is flattering. Buy a jacket, then choose skirts and trousers to match—and you’ll have a whole new wardrobe that can cope with the vagaries of the English spring.

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, February 1973.

Brown felt pull-on hat, with wide brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Black and white striped shirt, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Beige cord coat, with fitted waist and tie belt, £18.95. Matching cord pants with turn-ups, £5.95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Green leather brogues, with high crêpe soles, from Sacha, £8.99. Pin from a selection at Universal Witness. Black felt hat, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Black and white thinly striped cotton blouse, with revers and short sleeves, by Richard Green, £5. Beige jacket, with revers and tightly gathered waistband, £8.25. Matching skirt, with kick pleat at back, £6.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Black cover-up tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Black patent lace-up shoes on high crêpe soles, from Sacha, £8.99. Black leather gloves, from British Home Stores, £1.75.

Brown wool hat, from Browns, £5.50. Brown cord jacket with tightly fitted waist, gathered back and two pockets on hips, £13.75. Matching straight skirt, £6.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Brown tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Brown and cream silk printed scarf, from Fenwick, £2.40. Brown cord pull-on hat, from Diane Logan, £5.25. White jersey shirt, by John Craig, £4.50. Brown cord wrap-over knee-length coat, by Stirling Cooper, £18.95. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Brown, cream and rust printed scarf, from Fenwick, £2.40.

Green suedette hat, by Edward Mann, £4. Green Viyella shirt, £5.95. Cord wrap-over jacket, £8.50. Matching trousers, with belt-loop waistband, £5.95. All by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ravel, £9.50. Bag from Bus Stop, £6.95. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Scarf from Fenwick, £2.40. Pin from a selection at Essences At Antiquarius. Hat by Edward Mann, £4. Jersey shirt by John Craig, £4.50. Green sweater, with heart-shaped neckline, £4.75. Rust jacket, with gathered back, £13.95. Matching cord trousers, £5.95. All by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ravel, £6.50. Brown leather gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75.

Green cord pull-on hat, from Diane Logan, £6. Black and white thinly striped cotton shirt, by Richard Green, £5. Green cord jacket, £11.95. Matching trousers, £5.95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Brogues from Sacha, £4.99. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Tweed pull-on hat, by Malyard Grey, £6. Grey shawl-neck sweater, with red and white stripes, £4.75. Grey wrap-over jacket, £8.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Maroon cord Oxford bags, with elasticated waistband, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £9.95. Brown brogues from Sacha, £4.99. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Silk scarf from Fenwick, £2-40.

Pull-on hat from Herbert Johnson, £2-60. Cotton shirt, from Clobber, £4-95. Grey cord battle jacket, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £15-95. Matching trousers, by Sheilagh Brown, £9-95. Court shoes from Ravel, £5.99. Leather gloves from British Home Stores. £1.75. Scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Pull-on hat from Herbert Johnson, £3. Grey silk shirt from Bus Stop, £6-95. Grey cord jacket, £18. Matching trousers, £9.95. Both by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers. Court shoes from Russell and Bromley, £8.49. Leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Shetland gloves from Universal Witness, £1-60. Scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius.

Brown felt hat, by Edward Mann, £2-90. Brown cord jacket, £1395. Matching cord skirt, £9-95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Leather court shoes, from Samm, £11.99. Brown leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop. £6.95. Leather gloves, from British Home Stores, £1-75. Pin brooch from a selection at Universal Witness. Bracelet from Corocraft, £1.25.

How hand-me-downs become pick-me-ups

1970s, Antiquarius, Camden Passage, Carla Sklan, Chelsea Antiques Market, David Tack, Diane Logan, Essences, Essenses, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Orange Box, Portobello Road Market, Vintage Editorials

Admittedly it takes a good eye, the sort that can look over a pile of old garments and see what you can make of them, and they of you. Then it needs a little adventure, to team old clothes with improbable but right accessories. It may also demand scissors and a needle and thread, but it’s the perfect way to beat imitation—and inflation.

Photographed by David Tack.

Scanned from Honey Magazine, November 1974.

I’m always delighted and fascinated by articles like this, somehow proving that certain interests are just innate in some people, and some things simply never change. Fifty years later, new generations are still discovering the joys of second hand clothes as though nobody ever thought of it before.

There was a storm in a Tiktok teacup earlier this year when someone declared that resellers were the Landlords of the Millennial generation. In what felt like a heady mix of inverted snobbery and undiluted envy at some people’s eye for a bargain, they declared second hand clothes were only for the poorest people and it was immoral to be making money out of them. In fact, I think it’s safe to say that it must be one of the oldest jobs in the world. In centuries gone by, the finest clothes were left in wills, given to servants, resold, remodelled and recycled until they were practically rags – which is why we have so little left in completely original condition.

On top of this long history, here in the Seventies (and then right up until the present day) you can see the glamourising of second hand clothes as a perfect counterbalance to the ever-expanding, and ever-cheapening, fashion industry. I also can’t help noticing that the belted sack dress (see further down) and bangle combination looks like something you might have seen in Topshop in the early 1980s. Proving that secondhand is often more fashion-forward than what you find in the shops.

A new look at dressing gowns: Soft cotton or silky wrapover dressing gowns can easily be found at jumble sales and markets. Fastened with a pretty brooch or with a scarf tied round the waist, they’re much nicer to wear around the house than that tatty old quilted thing your mum gave you! A bonus is that they can double as a dress or even a coat over jeans for the daytime. Paisley print robe £1, from Portobello Road Market. Painted bone fan with slotted blue ribbon, Chimera.

A little colour goes to your head: To follow the 20s,30s look which has become hot fashion for the evening, why not add a little glamour to a crocheted or knitted beret by sewing on tiny bugle beads (they’re the cylindrical ones). A geometric or floral design can look good—or a motif on one side if you haven’t got the patience to cover the whole of the beret. Antique beaded beret from a selection starting at about £10 from Carla Sklan at Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SW3.

The soft touch pulled into shape: Most of the prettiest second-hand dresses to be found have waist measurements which are really enormous and the idea of darting and reshaping them can offset the low price. To combat this we cut a strip from the hem about 3in wide, cut it in half width-wise and doubled it over to make two strips to tie round the back. Even easier would be to attach two narrow ribbon ties. Our dress from a selection at Orange Box, Camden Passage, N1.

Two for the top:Hats are still one of the most important accessories you can buy or make, and they look especially good if they’re bedecked with feathers or trimmings. If your purse demands you try your own hand at millinery, we’ve come up with an idea for trimming a plain felt beret. Just make two small incisions approximately one inch apart and add a natty trio of brightly coloured feathers. This smashing felt cloche with painted applique flowers and leaves is more of a good investment at £10 from Diane Logan, 40 Chiltern Street, WI.

Best suited: Ladies’ tailored suits abound for a mere pittance in most second-hand haunts and, if you accessorise them well, they can become the mainstay of your wardrobe. But nothing ruins the line of a tailored jacket more than out-of-shape shoulders. If you carefully unpick the lining around the armhole and search about, you’ll find it’s probably the fault of deflated shoulder pads. Buy a new pair of foam ones (from haberdashery departments of large stores); enclose each pad in a little square of plain fabric and it’s easy to tack them into place. Another idea to liven up a plain crepe jacket is to add some contrasting fabric on the pocket flaps or, if you have the patience, embroider your initials on a breast pocket. Authentic tweed costume courtesy of Mrs Kilford. Collarless green crêpe embroidered jacket, Orange Box £4.50. Feather-trimmed felt hat, to hire from Diane Logan ; long crêpe-de-chine patterned scarf, Essences £2: belt from a selection at Fenwick ; cane, Biba ; fox fur, Orange Box £4.50; green earrings and double bird brooch, Medusa’s Heirlooms. All Orange Box clothes from Camden Passage, 33 Islington Green, London N1.

Taking your nightie to a party: It doesn’t have to be a choice between a jewelled gown or your old jeans for a party. A long old-fashioned satin nightie is just about the prettiest and sexiest thing you could wear—and you won’t look too dressed up or contrived. And if you do get home late and tired you’re dressed for bed as well. Ankle-length cap-sleeved embroidered pink satin nightdress £5, from Bombacha, 104 Fulham Road, SW3.

Anything goes: To prove that even the most ordinary old dress can look bang up to date with just a little attention, we found this pleated black sack dress and re-vamped it. Pulled in at the waist with a wide red belt, with lots of red and black glass jewellery, black seamed stockings and your hair up, it soon becomes a show-stopper. Dress from a selection of oldies at Martha’s Market, Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1. All jewellery from Chimera, Antiquarius.

For the good sport in you: Smart dresses and feminine bits and pieces are easier to find than casual sporty outfits, but here’s one solution to show the tomboy in you, and it’s a great way to use that too-big sweater or cardigan you’ve discovered. Team it with striped cut-off men’s summer trousers and a shirt or blouse and flat shoes—the whole outfit could easily cost you less than a fiver. For a more feminine touch, appliqu6—or even sexier, inset—your own lace motif on a blouse. You can buy one at a haberdashery store or cut out a bit of lace from an old petticoat. Hip-length baggy hand-knitted cardigan £1, striped cotton men’s shorts 50p, both from Portobello Road Market. Short-sleeved cream lace-inset Rayon blouse, Essences £3.50. Thin red leather and hessian belt, Fenwick. Huge perspex initial, Mid Twentieth Century at Antiquarius. See-through plastic tube bracelets, £1.50 each from Reflection and Light at Antiquarius. Socks and shoes, model’s own.

Two for the price of one: Above and below : Along with casual clothes, skirts are about the most difficult things to buy secondhand. Here’s a way to solve the problem and gain a matching blouse and skirt from a dress. First remove the side zip (if there is one), then carefully unpick the waist seam. Run a row of gathering round the top about 4″ in, then gently ease it up to fit your waist measurement plus 2″. Attach a strip of petersham about 14″ wide to the outside edge, turn in and finish off the side opening. For the blouse, turn up 1″ of the bottom edge, and thread with a narrow strip of elastic. Yellow and black floral-printed cotton dress, Portobello Road Market £1. Floppy cream silky blouse with elasticated waist and lace-trimmed collar and insets, shown with skirt, £3.50 from The Orange Box, Camden Passage, 33 Islington Green, London NI. Bangles and necklace from a selection at Chimera ; earrings from Medusa’s Heirlooms.

Tighten up: Baggy blouses and shirts may be the most fashionable shape but sometimes it’s nice to show your waist—and with this idea you don’t have to worry about endlessly tucking slippery material back into the waistband of your skirt or trousers. Gather the waist with two rows of shirring elastic, machined close together, remembering to sew a little lower than your actual waistline as the blouse will ride up a bit once it’s gathered. Our candy-striped cotton blouse is from the Portobello Road Market, 60p.

Linda Annunziato and Sandra De Campos

1970s, Antiquarius, cosmopolitan, John Annunziat, Linda Annunziato, Linsan, Sandra De Campos, Vignettes
Linda Annunziato and Sandra De Campos are the exotic-sounding names of two models living in Lisbon who’ve decided to offer London girls the chance to be dressed in the fine old Portuguese traditions. They’ve got together beautiful Twenties and Thirties outfits like the crepe de chine tea gowns they’re wearing here, and cleverly sold them to London outlets like Vignette, in Antiquarius, 135 Kings Rd, SW3 . . . Meantime, if you’re ever passing down Portugal way, pop in to their newly opened shop Linsan, in Cascais (a pretty fishing village near Estoril), and get yourself a little antique number of your own.

Photographed by John Annunziat.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, October 1973.

La Femme Provocatrice

1970s, Antiquarius, biba, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Joan Ferguson, marie france, Michael Berkofsky, nostalgia, quorum, radley, Vintage Editorials
Saucy scarlet chiffon see-through blouse with ruffled V-neck, Joan Ferguson £10.50, from Joan Ferguson, Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SW3. Sheer black stockings, Fenwicks 40p ; high-heeled leather peep-toe shoes, Biba £.7.90; silver and black beaded choker on a petersham band, Nostalgia £5.

Entice in clothes of clinging silk and flowing crepe de chine, fragile and provocative. Mata Hari knew the secret … try it for yourself.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from Honey, September 1974.

Shiny ivory slippery satin evening dress with fluted cap sleeves and tightly fitted bodice that flares out at the hem, from a selection of ‘originals’ at Nostalgia, £15, from Nostalgia, 29 Bedfordbury, WC2. Carved jet coiled snake bangle, Chelsea Gems £20; twisted silver and black beaded rope, Corocraft ’75p ; ruched peep-toe leather shoes, Biba £7.95. Courant Eau de Parfum Mist Mini-Spray, Helena Rubinstein 95p. French Officer’s uniform and Russian Naval Officer’s uniform are to hire from Bermans & Nathan, 40 Camden Street, NW1. Black curly Mata Hari wig, ‘Magpie’ by Carmen, £12.95, styled by Trevor at Ricci Burns.

Pale peach crepe-de-chine blouse with cafe-au-lait lace-trimmed collar and breast pocket and looped button front, Marie France of Greenrock £15, from Crocodile, 98 New Bond Street, W1 and branches. High-waisted long black crepe skirt with tightly ruched front waistband and tie back, Radley £16, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3. Black ruched nylon evening gloves, Morley 99p. Heaven Sent Perfume Spray Mist, Helena Rubinstein from 72p.

Jet black and silver bugle-beaded ‘original’ chiffon shimmy dress with handkerchief hem, £40 from a selection at Nostalgia, 29 Bedfordbury, WC2. Black leather peep-toe shoes with ruched front, Biba £7.90 ; sheer black tights, Mary Quant 40p.

Loose peach coloured crêpe-de-chine overblouse with fluted sleeves and plunging V-neck, lace trimmed front, Joan Ferguson £7.00, from Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SVV3. Scarlet crêpe hip-hugging gored mid-calf length skirt, Quorum £12.50, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3, Heath Street, NW3. Apple Blossom Perfume Mist Mini-Spray, Helena Rubinstein 72p.

Something to slip into

1970s, Adrian Mann, alice pollock, Antiquarius, bus stop, Butler & Wilson, C&A, che guevara, Deco Inspired, edward mann, Gilles Ben Simon, Glynn Manson, Honey Magazine, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Jackie Ross, Jon Elliot, lee bender, outlander, quorum, Roger Nelson, stirling cooper, Susie Craker, Vintage Editorials
Beige cotton swagger-back jacket with contrasting collar and turn-back cuffs £12 ; beige short-sleeved cotton button-through shirt £6-50; extra wide cotton Oxford bags £8, all by Ian Batten for Stirling Cooper, from 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at branches of Peter Robinson. Bug brooch, Butler & Wilson £4-50; thin gilt snake neck chain, Miss Selfridge 75p; ivory bangles £5 each from Butler & Wilson.

Something like these easy-to-wear, soft crêpe or finely knitted swing-back duster jackets, teamed with wide lounging trousers or slit pencil skirts. They’re cool, casual and chic—easily the most comfortable outfits around.

Photographed by Gilles Ben Simon.

Scanned from Honey, May 1973.

Grey crêpe swagger-back jacket with faint white stripe and wide front revers £8.95, worn with matching trousers £7.95, both by Lee Bender for Bus Stop from all branches of Bus Stop, (mail order 25p from 3 Kensington Church Street W8). Acrylic and linen knitted sleeveless top with gathered bust detail, Outlander £4.60, from Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1 (mail order 15p) ; Beige, Oxford Street, W1 ; Sheila Worth, New Bond Street, W1 ; Stephen Tremayne, Walton-on-Thames ; Samuel Cooper, Wilmslow. Egg-shaped bead necklace, Adrien Mann 90p ; cream and black elasti-cised plastic bracelet, Gay Designs £3.50 ; thin white bangle, Paul Stephens 17p.

Acrylic and linen knitted jacket with wide turn-back sleeves £10.30, and matching vest with stripes on the bust £4.20, both by Outlander, from main branches of Wallis ; Fenwicks, Bond Street, W1 (mail order 20p) ; Sheila Worth, New Bond Street, W1 and branches. Crêpe lounging trousers, Alice Pollock for Quorum £8 approx, from Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3, Heath Street, Hampstead, NW3, and their shops at branches of Peter Robinson. Gilt and silver necklace, Miss Selfridge £1.45 ; thin gilt snake neck chain, Miss Selfridge 75p; deco clip worn as earring, Universal Witness 25p; white plastic bangle, Paul Stephens 17p ; gilt and silver bracelet, Miss Selfridge 70p ; thin plastic bangles, Paul Stephens 10p.

Black and white knitted vest top with wide straps and big white button detail £1.95 approx, with matching wide-sleeved duster jacket £4.95, both by Glynn Manson, from Goodban Ltd, Chiswick, W4; Brown & Phillips, Deal; Townrows, Braintree; Avannes, Edinburgh. Tight white Trevira pencil skirt with large black buttons and front slit, C & A £2.75, from main branches of C & A. White crochet pull-on hat, Edward Mann £2.60; black 1920s bug brooch, Butler & Wilson £4.50; black and white cylindrical bead choker, Adrien Mann, £1; black and cream checkered elasticised bracelet, Butler & Wilson £3; thin bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each; tights, Mary Quant 40p.

Crepe-de-chine jacket with large front patch pockets, cuffed sleeves and own tie belt, Suzy Craker for Roger Nelson £12 approx, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8; Stock, High Holborn, WC1 ; Coundown, King’s Road, SW3. Acrylic and linen finely knitted long-sleeved sweater, Outlander £3.60 ; silver and cream brooch, Dando at Antiquarius £2.50.

Grey and white polka-dot crêpe swagger-back jacket £8.95, and matching wide trousers £7.95, both from all branches of Bus Stop. Finely striped long-sleeved beige and white sweater, Outlander £4.50, from main branches of Wallis; Dickins Et Jones, Regent Street, W1 (mail order 15p) ; Image, Bath. Thin brown patent belt and thin white patent belt, Gay Designs 69p each; cream plastic egg-shaped bead choker 90p, and small white glass bead necklace £1.60, both by Adrien Mann ; plastic bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each; thin metal bangles, Corocraft 69p; grey clip earrings, Paul Stephens 25p.

Rust, cream and brown Madras check cotton duster suit with white elasticated trim, Jakie Ross for Jon Elliot, trousers £7.90, jacket £9.90, both from Merle, Thurloe Street, SW7; Goodshop Lollipop, Gloucester Road, SW7; Sidney Smith, King’s Road, SW3 (mail order 25p) ; The Klink, Peckham. Black and white plastic leaf necklace, Adrien Mann, £1.50 ; black and cream chequered elasticated bracelet, Butler & Wilson £3 plain ivory bangles, Butler & Wilson £5.50 each.

Now it can be revealed

1970s, Antiquarius, Chelsea Antiques Market, Emmerton and Lambert, forbidden fruit, Inspirational Images, michael roberts, ritva, sunday times magazine, The Purple Shop, Uschi Obermaier, Vintage Editorials, Willie Christie
White kebaya with violet lace trim, £15, from a selection between £12-50 and £30 at Forbidden Fruit, 325 Kings Road. Broderie anglaise skirt, £8, from Vern Lambert, Chelsea Market.

A kebaya is the traditional organdie blouse which Malay and Indonesian women wear over their sarong. It is lavishly embroidered and trimmed with lace. No two are alike. Now available here, selling from £12.50 for plainer ones to £30 for the most elaborate, they provide summer’s latest exotic look. Worn with old jeans or peasanty skirts, pinned together with antique clasps, the kebaya is the sexiest thing in town.

Model is Uschi Obermaier.

Report by Michael Roberts.

Photographed by Willie Christie.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, July 7th 1974.

Blue/pink embroidered kebaya, £18, from a selection priced between £18 and £30 at Ritva, 8 Hollywood Road, London S. W.10. Art Nouveau jewellery from The Purple Shop, Antiquarius, Kings Road, London S. W.3.
Floral-embroidered kebayas, £20, from a selection between £18 and £30 at Ritva. Deco clasps, £1 ; broderie anglaise skirt, £8, all from Vern Lambert. Pendants and butterfly brooch from The Purple Shop.
Floral-embroidered kebaya, £20, from a selection between £18 and £30 at Ritva. Deco clasps, £1 ; broderie anglaise skirt, £8, all from Vern Lambert. Pendants and butterfly brooch from The Purple Shop.

Cover Up

1970s, Antiquarius, Buckle Under, caroline smith, Christopher Morris, Du-Du, Equinox, Escalade, Foale and Tuffin, forbidden fruit, harpers and queen, Illustrations, Le Bistingo Boutique

A holiday necessity—to entice your gigolo, or simply preserve decency on the terrace for lunchtime drinks — is a cover-up. We’ve looked around, found the nicest ones in town and had them sketched here by Caroline Smith. Some you tie Polynesian style (remember Blue Lagoon?) round you; others you lie on, or in; others are like the simplest dress slipped over your head to demurely cover you up (don’t shock the curé) for church-seeing.

1 Du-Du at 95 Parkway, NW1 are in for a sell-out this summer with their ‘Kangas’. Kangas, for the uninformed, are long pieces of cotton in a huge variety of colours and patterns. They come from Africa and act like a sarong ; they cost about £3 and pack to the site of a handkerchief. 2 Foale & Tuffin‘s new swimsuit will take you right back to Nanny and the sand-pit. White and orange spotted seersucker with a shirred bodice and bloomers ; £7.50, from Countdown, 137 Kings Rd, SW3; Lucienne Phillips, 09 Knightsbridge, SW1. Proving that the cottage industry is thriving, Christopher Morris and his wife Lera, with a friend, Hazel McKenzie, recently opened Habari at 39 Sussex Place, W2. Christopher designs all the clothes, while Lera and Hazel dye the fabric and screen-print it into luscious patterns. They also sell things like the small basket shown below. It’s in brown and cream string and really pretty; £4.25. The dress has a hessian bodice and a low back (or front —depending on how you wear it) with a short voile skirt: £18-50. Peeping out from under the dress on the extreme right of this page you can see their leather sandal, shaped like a trapezium ; £4. 4 Le Bistingo Boutique at 93 Kings Rd, SW3, have gone to town on the Piz Buin collection of swimwear. Its made of polyester fabric —see-through and also tan-through. The designs are rather Tahitian with bright colours and bold flower prints. There are sarong skirts to match the bikinis and make you more respectable. If these still aren’t enough, the bikinis do also come in a less revealing material. The bikini is £7.80, the skirt £10.90. Le Bistingo have also latched on to another idea … if you find that by some strange quirk of fate you need a different sized bikini top and bottom, ‘Huit’ ) now make them separately up to 38″ bust ; £5.50 the set at Le Bistino. 5 Equinox in Antiquarius (135 Kings Rd, SW3) is owned by David Scott and James Goldsack who have got together a fantastic conglomeration of stock from all over the world. It’s a haven for all Indian enthusiasts, as there’s a jolly collection of Navajo Indian carpets and jewellery. You can also buy Spanish crockery which is very, very ‘earthy’ looking, or if you prefer to sit on a prayer mat and sip your tea out of a little Chinese bowl, then Equinox can cater for both these needs as well. So as not to stray too far away from the point of this month’s Shopping B, they also do a very nice line in beach cover-ups ; this one is Mexican and hand-embroidered on cotton, £20. 6 Guaranteed to keep off sunstroke : pretty red straw hat with tanan ribbon ; by Buckle Under about f6.50; from Harrods, Knightsbridge and Darlings, Bath. 7 Essential beach bag to hoard biros and postcards — in canvas, comes in various colours (this one is green). £4.95, Escalade, 187 Brompton Rd, SW3. 8 If you like long skirts and dresses beautifully embroidered, and soft cheesecloth skirts with appliqués, then the place to go is Forbidden Fruit at 352 Kings Rd, SW3. We chose a long cheesecloth skirt with dark brown embroidery around the hem and a matching shirt with shirring round the waist and neckline. Very soft and feminine; sold together, £15.

Illustrated by Caroline Smith.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, July 1972.