Wild Mustang Co.

All Change for Autumn

19 magazine, 1970s, anello and davide, Avril Gordon, biba, Brosseau, Feathers, Fenwick, Frocks, Ginger Group, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Jean Charles Brosseau, mary quant, Michael Berkofsky, Sacha, Tony Berkley, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co.
Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black Courtelle blazer, long and lean with slightly padded shoulders, low wide lapels and plain white buttons, by Tony Berkeley, 10gns. Oxford bag-style Courtelle trousers with turn-ups, in black, rust and creamy beige, by Tony Berkeley, 6gns. Conker brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Tapestry bag, from Biba, £5 10s. Snake-print luggage also from a selection at Biba.

Autumn clothes are now beginning to filter into the shops, and we must admit that this year’s crop is better than ever. The best of last season’s shapes remain with us—long, lean, fitted coats and jackets, midi length skirts and Oxford bags with turn-ups. The new lines are more startling, and heavily influenced by the ‘Forties. Shoulders are squared off, coats have Joan Crawford swagger backs or are shaped in at the waist with a single-button fastening. All hems cover the knee, and to be seen in a mini is almost sacrilegious now. Gaucho pants and knickerbockers are the new look for legs, and blouses with soft revers and yokes are back in vogue, worn with soft collars outside. Colours are black, brown, rust and cream, or a mixture of the four in plaids and jacquards. Shoes are becoming much finer with the exception of brogues and shoes with ankle straps. Large, soft leather shoulder bags are the perfect shape to complete the picture.

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1970.

Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Courtelle swagger coat in black, rust and creamy beige, has a deep inverted pleat in the back, is fastened with plain white buttons, from Tony Berkeley, 13g ns. Brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Tapestry bag, by Biba, £5 10s. Luggage, from Biba, 6gns. to £6 10s.

Soft felt khaki-coloured hat, by Herbert Johnson, 7gns. Black wool dress embroidered at waist and cuffs, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black lace-up shoes, from Anello and Davide, 75s. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown bag, by Avril Gordon, £8. Brown felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool dress with a split skirt is trimmed with heart-shaped buttons, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 2s. Black suede belt with brown clasp, by The Wild Mustang Co., 65s. Beads, from Biba, 63s.

Brown felt hat trimmed with leather thongs, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Brown jersey knicker-bocker suit with the jacket cut like a shirt, and matching tie belt, from Frocks By Post, £6 19s.6d. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Beige felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Midi-length beige cardigan coat narrow cut with a top stitched yoke and matching trousers, from Frocks By Post, £9 19s.6d. Brogues by Sacha, 8gns.

Beige felt hat with a leather thong trim, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool long-sleeved dress is button-through at back and has a matching belt, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black leather shoes, by Anello and Davide, 75s. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown suede and patent leather shoulder bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black crêpe long-sleeved blouse, 5gns. Slim-fitting Courtelle jacket in black, rust and creamy beige with patch pockets, 71/2 gns. Black Courtelle Gaucho trousers with turn-ups, 90s. All by Tony Berkeley. Grey patent lace-up shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks.

Beige felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Creamy crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Long lean acrylic and wool jacket in grey and black, £7 15s., matching skirt, 85s. Both by Alistair Cowin for Grade One. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Bag, from Biba, £5 19s.6d. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Acrylic and wool pinafore dress in grey and black, by Alistair Cowin for Grade One, £6 10s. Black shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather shoulder bag by Avril Gordon, £8. Luggage from a selection at Biba.

Beige crochet hat, from Fenwicks, 25s. Black crêpe blouse, 5gns. Courtelle pinafore dress in black, rust and creamy beige, £6 105. Slim-fitting black Courtelle coat has wide lapels and fastens with one white button at the waist, 13gns. All by Tony Berkeley. Black T-bar leather shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Long brown chiffon scarf, 10s. Brown tortoiseshell clip, 4s.6d. Both from Fenwicks.

Brown felt hat, by J.C. Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe dress is gather-ed from a wide yoke and has a belt in suede, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £13 15s. Brown suede brogues with fringed tongue, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather bag, by Avril Gordon, 8gns. Snakeprint suitcase, from Biba, £6 10s.

Jeanz Meanz

1970s, Boston-151, caroline arber, Electric Fittings, Emmerton and Lambert, Inspirational Images, Jigsaw, Kansai Yamamoto, Landlubber, margit brandt, mary quant, mr freedom, South Sea Bubble, The Westerner, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, Wild Mustang Co.
Properly faded blue jeans at Emmerton and Lambert. Bright red braces at Mr Freedom. T-shirt by Kansai Yamamoto at Boston-151. Cowboy boots at The Westerner.

Jeanz Meanz summertime, anytime, new blues, faded blues, long legs, a look that’s sexy, tough, goes with workshirt or Saint Laurent blazer, a bright old idea that began with the Gold Rush and just keeps on looking great…

Photographed by Caroline Arber.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

Blue jeans and cotton battle shirt by Jigsaw. Blue cotton singlet, Boston-151. Brown suede boots by Mary Quant.
Mid blue cotton jeans by South Sea Bubble. Stripe vest, Margit Brandt for Scorpio. / Thick brushed denim jeans from Wild Mustang at Take Six. Tartan shirt by Electric Fittings.
Denim blue jeans by Landlubber. Plaid shirt by Electric Fittings. Leather boots from Mr Freedom.

The Great Imposters

1970s, anello and davide, aquascutum, Beged'Or, Bermona, Borg, caroline baker, chelsea cobbler, Dada, Feathers, Herbert Johnson, jane whiteside, Jonvelle, kensington market, kurt geiger, laura ashley, Laura Jamieson, Lizzie Carr, Martha Hill, Mexicana, Mog, Morel, nova magazine, peter robinson, Russell & Bromley, Selfridges, stirling cooper, the souk, The Sweet Shop, velmar, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co.
Tissavel-lined Galaxy coat by Beged’Or approx. £50; cotton blouse by Mexicana, £13; fur fabric jeans by Newmans, 12 gns; hairy slipper boots at Russell & Bromley, £6 19s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; hatband made from an Estonian tie at the Russian Shop, 7s 6d; fur bag at The Souk, £3 5s; wool gloves at Dickins & Jones, 10s:

Leather and fur get more expensive every year. It’s not only the taxes and rising costs of production. It’s just that there aren’t enough good animal skins for leather around to meet the consumer demand. Furs are there in quantity for the fabulously rich. Luckily a good substitute has been found – the nylon-spun, man-made sort. Some, especially in the leather field, are so like the real thing the only way you can tell the difference is by the smell. Take the white coat on pages 46 and 47. It’s fake and costs about £50. It has a double in real fur and leather for £270. Made by the same people who have duplicated most of their collection this way and it takes an eagle eye and nose to tell the difference. Others are just furry, woolly fabrics, obviously not imitating some four-legged friend, which is one of the nicest things about them. This fur fabric is now getting the treatment it deserves. Nairn Williamson (more famous for their Vinyl floor and wall coverings) were the first to see its potential and got six designers to use their Velmar fur fabric in their winter collections. Jane Whiteside for Stirling Cooper (new label getting famous fast for their beautiful jersey co-ordinates) was the cleverest of them all. She used the best sludgy colours, mixed it with needlecord to make a group of jackets and coats to go with trousers, skirts and blouses. Borg (American originated and the pioneers in England of this deep pile fabric) has been around for a long time, mostly on the inside of duffle and raincoats but it’s on the outside as a normal fabric that it looks its best. Next winter there will be a lot more of it around, now that designers are getting less snobby about plastics. Not only is it as warm as fur, it is, of course, much cheaper and you don’t smell like a wet dog when you come in from the rain, either. So you can wear it herding sheep on lost weekends, or in town queuing for the cinema without any guilt feelings about ruining your assets.

Insert obligatory ‘I don’t agree with the thrust of the argument for fake furs as just a financial consideration here’ caveat from me, your content provider. Don’t shout at me, basically. But it’s an interesting insight into the mindset of 1970, and the proliferation of fake furs and skins at that time. It’s also a breathtakingly styled and photographed work of art from Caroline Baker and Jonvelle.

Fashion by Caroline Baker.

Photographed by Jonvelle.

Scanned from Nova, January 1970.

Mediaeval velvet applique dress by Laura Jamieson at The Sweetshop, 20 gns; Tissavel and Galaxy waistcoat by Beged’Or, £22.
Velmar jacket and needlecord trousers by Stirling Cooper, £8 10s., £5 1Gs; leggings by Chelsea Cobbler, to order, 10 gns; cotton shirt from selection at Dada, Kensington Antique Market from 2 gns.
Acrilan jacket by Lizzie Carr approx. 24 gns; suede trousers by Morel, 17 gns, tied with leather strips from John Lewis Haberdashery Dept, 1s 10d per yard; wellingtons at Russell and Bromley, £3 19s; woven sash wrapped around neck at Herbert Johnson, 25s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; wool gloves at Selfridges, &s 11d
Velmar and Courtelle trousers by Martha Hill, approx. 8 gns; poncho at Peter Robinson, £7; wool shirt by Stirling Cooper, £4 5s; studded wristlet by Knees at Kensington Antique Market, 1 gn; suede moccasin boots by Anello & Davide, £8 15s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; sheepskin rug from The Souk from £3 19s 6d to £6; flask from Kensington Antique Market.
Velmar fur fabric floor length coat trimmed with canvas by Mog, £20, over long cotton nightgown by Laura Ashley, £5; knitted wool socks at Feathers, £1 1s 6d
Velmar coat with needlecord and zipper trims (top left) by Stirling Cooper, 18 gns; pale suede and leather lace-up boots by Kurt Geiger, 35 gns; wool gloves at Selfridges, 8s 11d; leather belt by The Wild Mustang Manufacturing Co., approx. £3 12s 6d; fur shepherdess hat, bag and drinking flask from a selection at Kensington Antique Market
Velmar jacket and needlecord trousers (top right) by Stirling Cooper, £12 19s 6d, £5 10s; big polo-neck ribbed Shetland wool sweater at Aquascutum, £6 15s; corrugated leather lace-up boots at Russell and Bromley, £29 19s; knitted Aran mitts at Selfridges, 16s 11d; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s, furry bag from a selection at Kensington Antique Market.

Carry Your Bag?

1970s, Avril Gordon, bags, Bags, biba, erica budd, Inspirational Images, John Carter, John Craig, mr freedom, petticoat magazine, stop the shop, Sue Hone, Tillers, Tommy Roberts, Tony Alston, Wild Mustang Co., Xanthe leathers

carry your bag

From left to right: John Craig polo, £4.50., Just Looking, SW3. Felt clutch bag, Tillers, £4., Miss Selfridge and Way In, SW1. Satchel tote bag, Avril Gordon, £3.99., from Miss Selfridge shops. Striped polo, John Craig, £4., at “27”, SW3. Rainbow suede clutch bag, Biba, W8., £7.75., and knit hat, 75p. Fringed duffle bag, Xanthe Leather, £3.99., Girl, Wl. John Craig polo, £3., Girl. Leather and snake clutch bag, Bus Stop, W8., £4. Canvas bag with daisy trim, Xanthe Leather, £3.50 at Girl, Wl. Polo sweater with badges, Erica Budd, £2.90., Neatawear, Girl and Peter Robinson Top Shop, Wl. Bus Stop hat, £2.60. Bag in leather cowboy style, Wild Mustang, £9., to order, 30 Gt. Portland St, Wl., p&p inc. Custard Tart metal workman’s lunchbox, Mr Freedom, Kensington Church St., W8., £2.65. Ribby polo with stripes, John Craig, £4., at Stop The Shop, SW3. Knitting bag, Baggage and General, £2.90., Peter Robinson, Great Gear Trading Co., SW3. Leather shoulder bag with criss cross stitching, Girl, £6.99. Vest sweater, John Craig, £4.50., at Just Looking, SW3. Suede shoulder bag with badge and wings, £5.75., with matching hat, £4.75., by Tony Alston to order from 52, Sutherland Pl., W2, p&p inc. Canvas bag, Xanthe Leather, £3.25., Chelsea Girl, Mail order: 15, Perrins Lane, NW3 and 20p p&p.

Carry-alls in all shapes and sizes… patterned pouches to go pretty places, tough canvas (and tin!) toters for trains and towns and big squashy suede and leather shoulder bags for catching buses and boats and being busy.

I am particularly enamoured of the ‘Custard Tart’ workman’s lunchbox from Mr Freedom.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by John Carter

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, October 1971

Where It’s At

1970s, anji, autumn, Bermona, biba, Browns, Etam, harold ingram, hats, Honey Magazine, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, John Craig, kadix, Make-up, mr freedom, ravel, roger stowell, Russell & Bromley, Saxone, shoes, stirling cooper, Sujon, Tommy Roberts, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co.

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 h

Plum spotted baker boy hat by Mr Freedom.

Looks: Eyes, hair, lips, the way they are now.

Clothes: Pink and purple and plum – the length is midi of course

Props: The right accessories make the look come right

Mood: How to wear your feelings on your face

Basically, this editorial is everything I wish for from my autumn wardrobe, colours and textures and shapes, complete with a mouthful of chocolate…

Photographed by Roger Stowell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey, October 1970.

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 j

Choker from Browns.

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 f

Left: Lavender shirt with matching midi skirt by Sujon. Canvas boots by Biba. Centre: Parma violet dress by Stirling Cooper. Leather butterfly choker from Browns. Shoes by Saxone. Right: Rose and lilac sweater by Harold Ingram. Jersey midi skirt by Etam. Crochet cloche by Browns. Shoes by Saxone.

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 g

1. Crochet flower cloche by Browns. 2. Plum leather satchel by Wild Mustang. Brooches from Mr Freedom. 3. Conker brown bag by Fenwicks. Leather belt by Wild Mustang. 4. Purple suede shoes by Ravel. 5. Belts from Browns, Wild Mustang and Adrien Mann. 6. Maroon suede boots by Russell and Bromley.

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 a

Crushed velvet cloche by Bermona

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 b

Cloche and dress by Anji. Badge by Mr Freedom.

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 c

Floor sweeping crepe dress by Kadix. Choker from Hope and Eleanor.

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 d

Sweater by John Craig.

Where it's at - Roger Stowell - Honey Oct 70 e

Peasant shirt and midi skirt by Sujon.

Inspirational Editorials: James Dean Rides Again

1970s, Boston-151, british boutique movement, charles jourdan, countdown, david montgomery, Henry Lehr, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Kansai Yamamoto, miss selfridge, mr freedom, The Westerner, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co., yves saint laurent

Jacket by Mr Freedom. Jeans by Male for The Pant House. Shoes at St Laurent, Rive Gauche.

Jeans, reclaimed from the bobby-soxer era, are back. True-blue jeans, given the Fifties treatment, rolled up to mid calf, revealing thick white socks and canvas sneakers, or totteringi high heels, clamped to the ankle with straps. It’s back to popcorn-and-ponytails, with angora sweater and beads or floppy blouses with belts, and shirts knotted self-consciously under Marilyn Monroe bosoms. It’s all fizz and fun and bubble-gum, just like High School kids used to be before politics and pollution, wars and recessions, drugs and permissiveness overwhelmed them.

Photographed by David Montgomery at Battersea Fun Fair and inside Mr Freedom.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, July 1971

Photographed by the jukebox at Mr Freedom. Jacket by Kansai Yamamoto for Boston-151. Denim jeans from Countdown. Green and pink leather shoes by Yamamoto for Boston-151. Badges from Mr Freedom

Jacket by Henry Lehr at Miss Selfridge. Canvas boots at The Westerner. Denim jeans at The Westerner. Handkerchief at Herbert Johnson.

Blouse from Boston-151. Belt from St Laurent. Denim jeans by Wild Mustang Co. White leather shoes by Charles Jourdan.