Inspirational Images: Tipper Ipper Appa

1960s, Arnaud de Rosnay, british boutique movement, Chelsea Antiques Market, granny takes a trip, Inspirational Images, Lida Ascher, Tipper Ipper Appa, Vogue
Some of the most perfect shells in the world get washed up on Stocking Island beaches; as does this small jacket and wide trousers in stripes from a beach umbrella. In crepe with a fine rolled gold chain almost invisible at the waist. By Tipper Ipper Appa, 25 gns, at Granny Takes a Trip. Chain with a small pearl, 40s, at Paris House. Striped scarves round the head, Lida Ascher Boutique. Enamel bird, Chelsea Antique Market.

Some of the most perfect shells in the world get washed up on Stocking Island beaches; as does this small jacket and wide trousers in stripes from a beach umbrella. In crepe with a fine rolled gold chain almost invisible at the waist. By Tipper Ipper Appa, 25 gns, at Granny Takes a Trip. Chain with a small pearl, 40s, at Paris House. Striped scarves round the head, Lida Ascher Boutique. Enamel bird, Chelsea Antique Market.

Photographed by Arnaud de Rosnay. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, May 1969

Inspirational Editorials: Splitting the Difference

1960s, 1970s, british boutique movement, bus stop, celia birtwell, Chelsea Antiques Market, Chelsea Drug Store, cherry twiss, christopher mcdonnell, hans feurer, Inspirational Images, king's road, lee bender, marrian mcdonnell, mary quant, ossie clark, quorum, radley, The Purple Shop, Vintage Editorials
Crepe skirt and printed chiffon blouse both at Quorum. Pink patent shoes at Elliott. Tights from Bus Stop.

Crepe skirt and printed chiffon blouse both at Quorum. Pink patent shoes at Elliott. Tights from Bus Stop.

If you are prepared to forsake the mini this summer for the midi or maxi, you will find that designers have compensated for covering the legs by boldly slashing the skirts at the front, the back and the sides. Photographed at The Chelsea Drug Store.

This is a fascinating editorial for a few reasons. Firstly it is photographed at the legendary Chelsea Drug Store, showing off the incredible interior to perfection. It singularly fails to credit Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell with their garments for Quorum (an odd oversight given their fame at the time…). It is also a glorious insight into the mini/midi/maxi debate of 1970 and shows us the transition between late Sixties style and the early Seventies. The clothes are familiar as early Seventies, but the shoes are not yet platform and still stuck in a low block heel.

Photographed by Hans Feurer. Styled by Cherry Twiss.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine (exact date unknown, Spring 1970)

Cream jersey dress at Marrian McDonnell. Gold sandals at Elliott. Onyx and silver ring from The Purple Shop.

Cream jersey dress at Marrian McDonnell. Gold sandals at Elliott. Onyx and silver ring from The Purple Shop.

Printed voile dress by Mary Quant. Suede granny shoes by Elliott. Victorian pendant at The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antiques Market.

Printed voile dress by Mary Quant. Suede granny shoes by Elliott. Victorian pendant at The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antiques Market.

Orange crepe dress at Bus Stop. Orange suede sandals at Elliott.

Orange crepe dress at Bus Stop. Orange suede sandals at Elliott.

Dress by Radley Gowns from Quorum. Shoes from Kurt Geiger. Victorian pendant from The Purple Shop.

Dress by Radley Gowns from Quorum. Shoes from Kurt Geiger. Victorian pendant from The Purple Shop.

Vintage Adverts: Eye Look

1960s, Hair and make-up, Max Factor, nova magazine, pop art, Vintage Adverts

Max Factor advert

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Nova, April 1968

Inspirational Editorials: Knockout Knits

1960s, Adrian Mann, alice pollock, biba, Bobby Cousins, british boutique movement, charlotte martin, Clarks, clobber, eric clapton, george harrison, Inspirational Images, Ivor Wahl, Jimmy Page, just looking, McCaul, petticoat magazine, quorum, ravel, Richard Shops, roger stowell, Rosalind Yehuda, Russell & Bromley, Sharcleod, Vanessa Frye, Vintage Editorials, way in
Knockout Knits Roger Stowell Petticoat March 29th 1969 Sweater and skirt by McCaul from Way In, SW1  Ribbed sweater and skirt by Bobby Cousins
Sweater and skirt by McCaul from Way In, SW1. Ribbed sweater with matching skirt by Bobby Cousins.

Featuring iconic model Charlotte Martin (who had romances with Eric Clapton, George Harrison and Jimmy Page). and some of the sweetest knits I’ve ever seen.

Photographed by Roger Stowell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, March 29th 1969

Blue-green knobbly suit by Clobber from Girl. Beige sling back shoes by John Smith. Dusty pink knitted dress with patterned from by Rosalind Yehuda from Vanessa Frye.
Blue-green knobbly suit by Clobber from Girl. Beige sling back shoes by John Smith. Dusty pink knitted dress with patterned from by Rosalind Yehuda from Vanessa Frye.
Knockout Knits Roger Stowell Petticoat March 29th 1969 Angora dress from Mary Farrin Boutique 67 South Molton Street Shoes from Russell and Bromley Two tone angora dress by Jandy Lesser Sandals Ravel
Angora dress from Mary Farrin Boutique, 67 South Molton Street. The 69 shoe from Russell and Bromley. Knee socks by Pex. Two-tone angora dress by Jandy Lesser. Sandals by Ravel.
Knockout Knits Roger Stowell Petticoat March 29th 1969 Cardigan by Things at Morley Skirt with matching waistcoat by John Craig
Cardigan by “Things” at Morley. Skirt from Richards Shops. Ravel sandals. Gored skirt with matching waistcoat by John Craig. Cream shirt from Ivor Wahl. Clarks shoes.
Both dresses by Clobber at Just Looking. Bracelet by Adrien Mann.
Both dresses by Clobber at Just Looking. Bracelet by Adrien Mann.
Apple green knitted waistcoat by Sharcleod, from Girl, Kings Road. Cream shirt and skirt by Ivor Wahl.
Apple green knitted waistcoat by Sharcleod, from Girl, Kings Road. Cream shirt and skirt by Ivor Wahl.
Cardigan with belt by Biba. Check wool skirt from Richard Shops.
Cardigan with belt by Biba. Check wool skirt from Richard Shops.
Caridgan by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Richard Shops skirt. Shirt by Sharcleod.
Cardigan by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Richard Shops skirt. Shirt by Sharcleod.

Inspirational Images: Fringes and feathers

1960s, british boutique movement, clive arrowsmith, fulham road clothes shop, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, simon massey, Vogue

Fringed jumpsuit by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, 9½ gns. Silk scarf with fringes from Fulham Road Clothes Shop, £3.

Fringed jumpsuit by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, 9½ gns. Silk scarf with fringes from Fulham Road Clothes Shop, £3.

I must have flicked past this image so many times in the past, but the most recent time I stopped and stared because – somewhere in between then and now – I have acquired this jumpsuit in black. I’m still waiting to give it an outing, but I will be sure to show you when I do. Although I can’t promise the befeathered head, or companion…

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, March 1969

New for Autumn/Winter

1930s, 1960s, 1970s, british boutique movement, bus stop, chelsea girl, forbidden fruit, jean varon, john bates, lee bender, louis caring, Miss Impact, psychedelia, roland klein, terry de havilland, wallis, website listings, young edwardian

Chelsea Girl

Chelsea Girl

Tsk tsk. Slap my wrist. I’m pretty slack about putting website listings here on the blog, and I can only apologise. Here are some edited highlights (but there are plenty more already listed and more to come before Christmas!). Personal favourites are the original 1970s Chelsea Girl platform shoes, the black lace 1930s evening dress and Erte-printed John Bates for Jean Varon dress…

Unsigned original 1930s

Unsigned original 1930s

John Bates for Jean Varon

John Bates for Jean Varon

Roland Klein for Marcel Fenez

Roland Klein for Marcel Fenez

Forbidden Fruit

Forbidden Fruit

Unsigned original 1960s

Unsigned original 1960s

Terry de Havilland

Terry de Havilland

Young Innocent

Young Innocent

Lee Bender for Bus Stop

Lee Bender for Bus Stop

Wallis Fashion Shops

Wallis Fashion Shops

Miss Impact

Miss Impact

Louis Caring

Louis Caring

Unsigned original 1970s

Unsigned original 1970s

Stars of ’69

1960s, album covers, haute naffness, interesting record sleeves

stars of 69

“…and the award for Most Literal Album Cover of the Decade goes to….”

Best 20p I have ever spent/worst wig I’ve ever seen…

Model Daughters

1960s, british boutique movement, celia hammond, christopher mcdonnell, gerald mccann, Guy Cross, Hylette Adolphe, Inspirational Images, jean muir, marrian mcdonnell, paulene stone, Sandra Paul, Sarah Stuart, simon massey, telegraph magazine, Vanessa Frye, wallis, Worth

celia hammond

Celia Hammond with Mrs Hammond. Born in Indonesia. Says she was ‘quite plump’ when she first walked into Lucy Clayton’s. “I started losing weight when I stopped worrying about it.” Confesses that she’s been in modelling so long that these days the money is the main attraction.

Celia’s dress by Jean Muir

Photographed by Guy Cross.  Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, November 22nd 1968.

Hylette Adophe

Hylette Adolphe with Mrs Terese Adolphe. Born in Mauritius, convent-educated. Finds modelling “very hard and a bit depressing, but on the whole quite nice.” Recently in Corfu, where she had to learn to ride a Roman chariot for a German swimwear ad. Found it “quite terrifying”.

Hylette’s dress by Hylan Brooker to order from Worth Related Couture.

paulene stone

Paulene Stone with Mrs Sylvia Stone. After leaving school with six O-levels, she won a competition in a women’s magazine, part of the prize being a modelling course. She says she always wanted to be a model. “Apparently, I was always talking about it when I was a little girl.”

Pauline’s outfit by Simon Massey at Wallis.

sandra paul

Sandra Paul with Mrs Rosalie Paul. Born in Malta, where her father was an RAF doctor. Decided against going to university and instead she took a course at Lucy Clayton’s. Says about modelling that “in a funny way you enjoy it the more experienced and adaptable you become.”

Sandra’s dress by Marrian-McDonnell

Sarah Stuart

Sarah Stuart with Mrs Croker Poole. Born in India, Sarah Stuart was educated in England and Paris (“no make-up lessons; we worked hard at French, history and commerce”). Took up modelling when her marriage broke up. Says it’s hard work – “getting up early, packing heavy cases…”

Sarah’s trouser suit by Gerald McCann at Vanessa Frye.

Mensday: Brian of Brook Street

1960s, Illustrations, Mensday, menswear, Queen magazine, Vintage Adverts

brian of brook street

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Queen, November 1969

Got the Glitterbug…

1960s, 1970s, british boutique movement, chelsea girl, georgina linhart, Jaeger, Marnie Fogg, personal collection, quorum, wallis

Glitterbug (1972) from Marnie Fogg's Boutique

Glitterbug (1972) from Marnie Fogg’s Boutique

For some reason, I have shied away from posting about my collection much in recent years. I suppose it’s always been somewhat fluid; things come and go when times are hard or when something better comes along. But recently I acquired something which had always been a bit of a ‘holy grail’ for me, and it reminded me of exactly why I love fashion history, collecting and researching.

One of the most important books on my road to total geekery was Marnie Fogg’s Boutique: A ’60s Cultural Icon. Amazon kindly (and terrifyingly) informs me that I purchased it exactly ten years ago. Although clearly not comprehensive, something I am now realising is probably impossible, it was my main gateway into understanding the boutique phenomenon as a whole. I already knew many of the designers – and was delighted to see how much space was dedicated to John Bates – but several were new names to me. One of these was Georgina Linhart. Another graduate of St Martin’s College of Art and Design, Linhart set up her label in 1964 and, while she was frequently featured in the top magazines of the period, her business only ran for ten years. She later worked for Quorum, Jaeger, Wallis and Chelsea Girl. All four of which are favourite vintage labels chez Vintage-a-Peel.

Georgina Linhart, 1970

Georgina Linhart, 1970

The more time went on, the more I realised how rare examples of her work must be these days. My eBay search was empty 99% of the time, and only occasionally turned up magazine features and a couple of jackets. The most distinctive dress pictured in Fogg’s Boutique book was ‘Glitterbug’ (see above). A sequined halterneck mini dress, gossamer light and substantial in its insubstantiality; so quintessentially of its time, the epitome of the permissive age.

So my heart was in my mouth when Glitterbug turned up on eBay a couple of months ago. It was slightly out of my price range at the time, and the recent events in my life had forced me to re-evaluate what was important (and worth getting into debt for). So I sat and watched it. Every day I would log into eBay, with one eye shut, and check if anyone had bought it. Every day it was still there, but my nerves were getting beyond frazzled. So the day I finally felt marginally less broke than normal, was the day I logged in and put in a cheeky best offer. I am impossibly grateful to the seller for accepting it and making my collector dreams come true. It has been a long time coming, and it has come a long way from the USA, but Glitterbug is finally in my collection. Plus, it fits me – which I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t have done ten years ago. What are the odds?

Glitterbug (1972) from my personal collection

Glitterbug (1972) from my personal collection