Long chiffon scarf designed by Celia Birtwell, 2 gn., from the Vidal Sassoon Shop, 44 Sloane Street, W1; Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3. White Tricel tricot blouse, part of set, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, 13 gn., with contrast trousers and jerkin, from Bazaar, Knightsbridge, SW1.
Scarves, instead of being dismissed as last year’s fashion gimmick, are being perpetuated as this year’s most important accessory. Still the simplest way to wear a scarf is to flip a long one casually college-style around the neck. As long as it’s not literally a college scarf this somehow adds enough chic to whatever you wear, without making you look fussily overdressed. There are dozens of different ways to tie a scarf. Smart French girls are tying scarves around their waists, twisted in with chain belts or beads. Marc Bohan at Dior makes headscarves tied pirate-style look young and chic, and shows scarves tied like a man’s tie. Although large squares will still be in demand to wear on the head or folded up as cravats, the big fashion in scarves is still for long ones, preferably fringed. Men will have to accept with a good grace that they have lost their long-established monopoly of fringed silk scarves. Until now almost the only places to find them were men’s departments, antique market stalls or somebody’s attic. (Shawls are the latest craze from jumble sales.) But shopping for scarves is easier this spring, with stocks at last in every shape and size. Hair by Valerie at Cheveux, 15 Abingdon Road, London W8.
Fashion by Liz Smith.
Photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned from The Observer Magazine, March 1969.
Paisley printed chiffon square, 63s., from Liberty, Regent Street, W1. Hat by Edward Mann, 49s. 11d., in a variety of colours. Tricel jersey tunic shirt (with trousers), by Jinty, 8 gn.
Tied around the waist a filmy silk square by Richard Allen, 75s., from Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, WI. Pearl and turquoise twisted bead belts with tassel ends, by Adrien Mann, 30s. each, from Harrods; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Beige crepe shirtsleeved jumpsuit £41 10s., from Jaeger, Brompton Road, Sloane Street, Baker Street and a number of provincial branches.
Pirate-style cotton handker-chief, 17s. 6d. from Liberty. Silver brooch on shoulder, 30s., silver bracelets, £1 7s. 6d. each; all from Indiacraft, Marble Arch, W1. Tricel jersey dress by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £5 19s. 6d., from Bazaar.
Indian silk scarf, 36 in. square, £1 11s. 6d., from Indiacraft, Silver chain, 18s. 6d. from Fenwick. Cigarette holder from Tunisia. Tunic dress in Lancola jersey by Marlborough, 11 gn., with trousers, from Peter Robinson.
Extra long silk scarf looks good tied as a sash, also in black, £2 2s. 6d., from Biba, 19-22 Kensington Church Street, W8, and by post. Rayon chiffon smock dress, by Polly Peck, 13 gn.
Square scarf tied like a tie, silk crepe de chine, 7 gn. yard, 36 in. wide, from Liberty. Dacron and cotton blouse, also in white, pale blue, brown, lagoon and pink, £5, from all Young Jaeger branches. Courtelle Neospun jersey pinafore-topped trousers designed by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, £8 18s. 6d. Maltese cross on chain by Adrien Mann, 25s. Tibetan bird ring £1 10s. from Indiacraft. Sunglasses by Corocraft, 25s.
Silk stole to wear as a sash, by Richard Allen, £7 17s. 6d., from Fenwick. Simple round-necked sleeve-less jumpsuit zipping up the back, in linen-look rayon, navy, beige, thyme or caramel, £14 10s., from Jaeger, London, and all provincial shops. Red and navy slingback shoes, 79s. 11d., from Dolcis. White plastic chain belt by Adrien Mann, £1. Page-boy wig, £21 15s., from Beyond The Fringe, 59 Brook Street, London
Now there’s hardware and haberdashery, furnishings and fabrics, cosmetics and mens-wear, all carrying the Biba label. Their brave transition from dolly boutique to department store was made last week when Biba opened in Kensington High Street. Although a baby store compared with neighbouring Barker’s, Biba does boast marble floors, a carved gallery from the old St Paul’s school, and a commissionaire at the huge glass doors.
Faithful customers can still find among the familiar palm fronds clothes to wear themselves or put on their children, but everything is on a much bigger scale. Colour-matched underwear and tights are on sale in a special conservatory-style department, and there’s a complete range of Biba makeup and cosmetics, and many more accessories.
But what’s really new, are the clothes for men, and the things for the house.
There’s nothing simple or austere about a Biba home life. The girl whose idea of some-thing comfortable to wear around the house is a slinky satin dress chooses a plush back-ground and hardware that’s softly elegant. Cutlery is rich-looking in gilt and mother of pearl, or silver and ebony. China is white and gold, glasses are chunky goblets. Specially printed wallpapers and furnishing fabrics, plain satins, felts, braids and trimmings, have carefully matched emulsion paints, lamp-shades and cushions, all in a range of 15 colours. Biba are selling the raw materials so that you can make what you want of them. The clue to their own style is Art Nouveau, but the way you choose to use them will be your own.
Biba men’s clothes are worn in these pictures by James Fox, who can currently be seen in ‘Isadora’ and whose new film, ‘Performance’, in which he co-stars with Mick Jagger, comes out next month.
Mr Fox is long and slender and can have little problem kitting himself out elegantly, but the clothes he wears here, plus others by Biba in velvets and tweeds, all come in a size range bigger than most. So fatter men can have fun with clothes too, and at a reasonable price.
By Liz Smith.
Photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned from The Observer Magazine, 21st September 1969.
Biba 3 is definitely the Biba I’m most captivated by, I think possibly because it was edged out so quickly by the much bigger (and more Deco) Big Biba and yet was, I think, the perfect encapsulation of the aesthetic and the first time the ‘department store’ ideal was manifested. Basically, I wish there were more photos so I do try and scan them when I find them! It’s also nice to see the menswear getting a bit of attention for once.
Pure wool herringbene tweed trousers cut to curve over the foot 6gn.; matching buttoned jerkin, £5 10s. Pure silk shirt and tie, 6gn. Art Nouveau statue, £7 10s.; necklace, 34s.; veiling, 2s. a yd. Marbled patent shoes, 12gn., from the Chelsea Cobbler, 33 Sackville Street, W1. Vanilla coloured Imperial Russian cigarettes by Sobranie, 11s. 3d. for 25. Carved ivory cigar holder, £21 ; ivory chess men, part of a set, £80; both from W. Barrett, 9 Old Bond Street, W1.
White worsted wool jacket with safari pockets and belt, 15gn.; matching trousers shaped over the foot, 8gn. Brown and cream printed rayon shirt, 5gn.; matching tie, 39s. 6d. Co-respondent shoes, £5 15s. from Anello & Davide, 30 Drury Lane, London, WC2. Teacup, 5s. 6d.; saucer, 3s. 3d.,2) All Biba prices here are approximate.
To sip your breakfast fruit juice slip on a cotton camisole, £10.95, and bloomers: £26.50 the set, Kayser. Earrings, £12.50, Butler & Wilson.
One of the nicest things about a summer holiday or a lazy weekend is not having to do anything—not even get dressed. With a handful of this summer’s prettiest lingerie you can breeze through a day of sunning or swimming. And then dress up for evening in a ravishing nightgown.
Hair by Kerry for Molton Brown
Fashion by Liz Smith
Photographs by Norman Parkinson.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, July 1979.
To luxuriate in that idle day ahead, change into a silky bias-cut night-gown, £50, Ossie Clark for Charnos. Sandals, £20, The Chelsea Cobbler.
To shimmer in a blue pool, float in lace-edged polyester satin camiknickers, £6.99, Marks & Spencer.
Lace and polyester camiknickers, £8.50, Way In at Harrods.
Flowery georgette bra, £5.95, suspender belt, £5.75, panties, £3.75, stockings, 85p, Fenwick. Cotton voile robe, £59, by Jane Cattlin.
For a shady siesta, lounge in a broderie anglaise cotton bra and panties, £5.99, Marks & Spencer. Dotted net petticoat, £6.99, Dorothy Perkins.
To dance on your terrace, leap into a cotton voile and lace nightdress, £59, Jane Cattlin. Pumps, from £4.95, Frederick Freed.
To flirt, twirl in a lace and voile nightdress, £46, matching negligee, £50, Jane Cattlin. Sandals, £20, The Chelsea Cobbler
The leopard cannot change his spots, And that’s the fix I’m in, So come an sit by me, my love, For some highly original skin. <<<<<<>>>>>> Fake-fur bikini and bangles from Biba. Boots by The Chelsea Cobbler.
Don’t give up – this could be the year when what goes on underneath could be your major investment.
Another extraordinary example of James Wedge’s wonderful work in the art of hand-tinting and further adventures in the world of Seventies-does-Fifties-pin up. Notable for including shoes and a petticoat from ‘Let It Rock’ which was Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood’s first shop in the Kings Road. The influence of rock and roll on and crossover between both glam rock and punk is perfectly encapsulated in this editorial, right slap bang in the middle of the Seventies.
Fashion by Liz Smith. Photographs by James Wedge.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, January 1975.
When I’m awakened from my slumber It does seem rather mean – It’s always the wrong number and never Steve McQueen. <<<<<<>>>>>> Satin bra and panties from Biba.
Watch out for life’s banana skins, And wear your prettiest slip, So you can say to passing men “I did enjoy my trip”. <<<<<<>>>>>> Bra by Gossard. Petticoat and stilettos from Let It Rock.
When I went in for Crufts with my doggy, I didn’t know how it would go, But it proves the importance of grooming – We’ve been voted the best in the show! <<<<<<>>>>>> Corselette by Janet Reger. Scarf from Femina Furs. Gloves and hat by Biba.
A girl can’t have too many furs, They give her an inner glow. But when it omes to trapping them How fur should a nice girl go? <<<<<<>>>>>> Bra, panties and suspender belt from Fenwick. Cape by Femina Furs. Mules from The Chelsea Cobbler.
If you watch the girls men watch, You’ll see, The girls they watch watch their weight like me. // Look me over closely, Tell me what you see. But if you kiss and tell, you rat, I’ll swear it wasn’t me. <<<<<<>>>>>> Essences camisole. Shoes by Terry de Havilland. Nightgown by Finewear. Shoes by Zapata.
A birthday gift for me, my dear? Come in and close the door. I do like them sending my presents, With a man from Securicor. <<<<<<>>>>>> Nightie and pantie set from Dorothy Perkins.
Men used to say I was forward, But I’ll tell you this, for a fact: Since I chose to look pure, and a little demure, I simply haven’t looked back. <<<<<<>>>>>> Abecita body stocking. Negligee by Martin Emprex. Glove and bag from Biba. Shoes by Let It Rock.
Suit by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Belt by Chris Trill. Shoes from Midas.
“Start squaring your shoulders, tightening your belt and walking on four-inch heels…”
A phenomenal editorial which feels very ahead of its time. This is really the birth of ‘Power Dressing’, from February 1979. There’s a curious juxtaposition of old and new, the old telephone and boudoir chair in the final photo suggest the origins of these suits in the Forties while the clunky ‘mobile phone’ is the signpost to the unknown future. Pre-Eighties and pre-Thatcher (just) – even pre-Miss Peelpants (also, just!) – there’s something quite charming about the modest silhouette here – which is really rather hard to equate with the horrors which were to come. These feel more in line with the New Romantic and Goth garments from the 1980s which I feel passionate about and choose to collect (like Sarah Whitworth, Symphony of Shadows etc), than with Yuppies and Dynasty, although you can just as equally see their genesis here.
Photographed by Christa Peters. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmpolitan, February 1979.
Suit by Wallis. Silk camisole by Tatters. Shoes from Pancaldi.
Jute tweed suit by Strawberry Studio. Bag by Butler and Wilson. Shoes from Russell & Bromley.
Cotton cord suit by Howie Diffusion. Camisole from Tatters. Belt by Courtney Reed. Shoes from Pancaldi.
Three piece suit by Daily Blue. Shirt by Riva. Purse and shoes by Pancaldi.
Suit by Stephen Marks. Shirt by Pamela Frances. Belt by Courtney Reed. Shoes from Pancaldi.
Wool crepe suit by Jaeger. Shoes by Pancaldi.
Suit with the wiest shoulders and narrowest skirt by Strawberry Studio. Suede shoes by Sacha.
Liz Eggleston 