The Party Pyjamas

1970s, Butler & Wilson, emcar, Inspirational Images, Jackie Ross, Jon Elliot, Juliet Dunn, miss mouse, Steve Hiett, steven hiett, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Cream crepe pyjamas, left, cream satin revers and tie belt, by Juliet Dunn, about £42, at Adele Davis. Satin pyjamas, centre, in palest pink, wrap jacket – piped in white, JD motif on breast pocket, by Juliet Dunn, about £40. Creamy satin trousers, right, matching V neck top, fastened and tied at Waist, by Jakie Ross for Jon Elliot, £20.

Night for evening: The Party Pyjamas in soft silks and satins.

Photographed in the Ballroom and Crystal Room of The Berkeley Hotel.

Hair by Keith at Smile.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from Vogue, late April 1974.

Chinese mandarin jacket, left, in black satin with red, white and green print, worn over black satin trouseres, both by Miss Mouse, jacket £25, trousers £9.95. Black crepe de chine kimono, centre, sprigged with pink and cream flowers. Black satin trousers, both by Sujon, £34. Navy tricel smoking jacket, right, with red and cream print, padded shoulders, patch pockets, worn over wide matching trousers, by Emcar, £25.75.

Scarves from head to toe

1960s, Adrian Mann, biba, celia birtwell, edward mann, Ginger Group, headscarves, Inspirational Images, Jaeger, janice wainwright, jinty, liberty, liberty's, Liz Smith, Marlborough, mary quant, observer magazine, polly peck, quorum, Richard Allan, simon massey, Steve Hiett, steven hiett
Long chiffon scarf designed by Celia Birtwell, 2 gn., from the Vidal Sassoon Shop, 44 Sloane Street, W1; Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3. White Tricel tricot blouse, part of set, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, 13 gn., with contrast trousers and jerkin, from Bazaar, Knightsbridge, SW1.

Scarves, instead of being dismissed as last year’s fashion gimmick, are being perpetuated as this year’s most important accessory. Still the simplest way to wear a scarf is to flip a long one casually college-style around the neck. As long as it’s not literally a college scarf this somehow adds enough chic to whatever you wear, without making you look fussily overdressed. There are dozens of different ways to tie a scarf. Smart French girls are tying scarves around their waists, twisted in with chain belts or beads. Marc Bohan at Dior makes headscarves tied pirate-style look young and chic, and shows scarves tied like a man’s tie. Although large squares will still be in demand to wear on the head or folded up as cravats, the big fashion in scarves is still for long ones, preferably fringed. Men will have to accept with a good grace that they have lost their long-established monopoly of fringed silk scarves. Until now almost the only places to find them were men’s departments, antique market stalls or somebody’s attic. (Shawls are the latest craze from jumble sales.) But shopping for scarves is easier this spring, with stocks at last in every shape and size. Hair by Valerie at Cheveux, 15 Abingdon Road, London W8.

Fashion by Liz Smith.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from The Observer Magazine, March 1969.

Paisley printed chiffon square, 63s., from Liberty, Regent Street, W1. Hat by Edward Mann, 49s. 11d., in a variety of colours. Tricel jersey tunic shirt (with trousers), by Jinty, 8 gn.

Tied around the waist a filmy silk square by Richard Allen, 75s., from Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, WI. Pearl and turquoise twisted bead belts with tassel ends, by Adrien Mann, 30s. each, from Harrods; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Beige crepe shirtsleeved jumpsuit £41 10s., from Jaeger, Brompton Road, Sloane Street, Baker Street and a number of provincial branches.

Pirate-style cotton handker-chief, 17s. 6d. from Liberty. Silver brooch on shoulder, 30s., silver bracelets, £1 7s. 6d. each; all from Indiacraft, Marble Arch, W1. Tricel jersey dress by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £5 19s. 6d., from Bazaar.

Indian silk scarf, 36 in. square, £1 11s. 6d., from Indiacraft, Silver chain, 18s. 6d. from Fenwick. Cigarette holder from Tunisia. Tunic dress in Lancola jersey by Marlborough, 11 gn., with trousers, from Peter Robinson.

Extra long silk scarf looks good tied as a sash, also in black, £2 2s. 6d., from Biba, 19-22 Kensington Church Street, W8, and by post. Rayon chiffon smock dress, by Polly Peck, 13 gn.

Square scarf tied like a tie, silk crepe de chine, 7 gn. yard, 36 in. wide, from Liberty. Dacron and cotton blouse, also in white, pale blue, brown, lagoon and pink, £5, from all Young Jaeger branches. Courtelle Neospun jersey pinafore-topped trousers designed by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, £8 18s. 6d. Maltese cross on chain by Adrien Mann, 25s. Tibetan bird ring £1 10s. from Indiacraft. Sunglasses by Corocraft, 25s.

Silk stole to wear as a sash, by Richard Allen, £7 17s. 6d., from Fenwick. Simple round-necked sleeve-less jumpsuit zipping up the back, in linen-look rayon, navy, beige, thyme or caramel, £14 10s., from Jaeger, London, and all provincial shops. Red and navy slingback shoes, 79s. 11d., from Dolcis. White plastic chain belt by Adrien Mann, £1. Page-boy wig, £21 15s., from Beyond The Fringe, 59 Brook Street, London

Biba’s getting bigger

1960s, anello and davide, art nouveau, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, chelsea cobbler, Deco Inspired, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, James Fox, kensington high street, Liz Smith, Mensday, menswear, observer magazine, Steve Hiett, steven hiett
Lampshade, 12gn. Small satin cushions, 16s. 11d. each; large, 27s. 11d. Tablecloth, 70in. diameter, 5gn. Ostrich feathers, 18s. each. Satin material, 36in. wide, 9s. 11d. a yd.; thick felt, 54in. wide, 53s. 6d. a yd ; thin felt, 70-72 in. wide, 27s. 6d. a yd. Fringing : plain cotton, 5s. 6d. a yd ; in Biba colours, 8s. 9d. a yd. Glass goblets, 21s. 6d. each. Steak knife, steak fork, dessert knife, 33s. 6d. each; soup spoon, dessert spoon, 37s. 6d. each; bread knife, £2 10s.; carving set, 1Ogn. Soup cup, 14s. 6d. ; egg cup, 3s. 9d.; 7-inch plate, 4s. 9d.; 81-inch plate, 7s. 6d.; 10-inch plate, 9s. 6d. Satin night-dress, £3 15s. 6d. Mock ivory bead necklace, 34s.; rings, 1s. 3d. each.

Now there’s hardware and haberdashery, furnishings and fabrics, cosmetics and mens-wear, all carrying the Biba label. Their brave transition from dolly boutique to department store was made last week when Biba opened in Kensington High Street. Although a baby store compared with neighbouring Barker’s, Biba does boast marble floors, a carved gallery from the old St Paul’s school, and a commissionaire at the huge glass doors.

Faithful customers can still find among the familiar palm fronds clothes to wear themselves or put on their children, but everything is on a much bigger scale. Colour-matched underwear and tights are on sale in a special conservatory-style department, and there’s a complete range of Biba makeup and cosmetics, and many more accessories.

But what’s really new, are the clothes for men, and the things for the house.

There’s nothing simple or austere about a Biba home life. The girl whose idea of some-thing comfortable to wear around the house is a slinky satin dress chooses a plush back-ground and hardware that’s softly elegant. Cutlery is rich-looking in gilt and mother of pearl, or silver and ebony. China is white and gold, glasses are chunky goblets. Specially printed wallpapers and furnishing fabrics, plain satins, felts, braids and trimmings, have carefully matched emulsion paints, lamp-shades and cushions, all in a range of 15 colours. Biba are selling the raw materials so that you can make what you want of them. The clue to their own style is Art Nouveau, but the way you choose to use them will be your own.

Biba men’s clothes are worn in these pictures by James Fox, who can currently be seen in ‘Isadora’ and whose new film, ‘Performance’, in which he co-stars with Mick Jagger, comes out next month.

Mr Fox is long and slender and can have little problem kitting himself out elegantly, but the clothes he wears here, plus others by Biba in velvets and tweeds, all come in a size range bigger than most. So fatter men can have fun with clothes too, and at a reasonable price.

By Liz Smith.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from The Observer Magazine, 21st September 1969.

Biba 3 is definitely the Biba I’m most captivated by, I think possibly because it was edged out so quickly by the much bigger (and more Deco) Big Biba and yet was, I think, the perfect encapsulation of the aesthetic and the first time the ‘department store’ ideal was manifested. Basically, I wish there were more photos so I do try and scan them when I find them! It’s also nice to see the menswear getting a bit of attention for once.

Pure wool herringbene tweed trousers cut to curve over the foot 6gn.; matching buttoned jerkin, £5 10s. Pure silk shirt and tie, 6gn. Art Nouveau statue, £7 10s.; necklace, 34s.; veiling, 2s. a yd. Marbled patent shoes, 12gn., from the Chelsea Cobbler, 33 Sackville Street, W1. Vanilla coloured Imperial Russian cigarettes by Sobranie, 11s. 3d. for 25. Carved ivory cigar holder, £21 ; ivory chess men, part of a set, £80; both from W. Barrett, 9 Old Bond Street, W1.
White worsted wool jacket with safari pockets and belt, 15gn.; matching trousers shaped over the foot, 8gn. Brown and cream printed rayon shirt, 5gn.; matching tie, 39s. 6d. Co-respondent shoes, £5 15s. from Anello & Davide, 30 Drury Lane, London, WC2. Teacup, 5s. 6d.; saucer, 3s. 3d.,2) All Biba prices here are approximate.

Happy ever after

1970s, alkasura, crowthers, Inspirational Images, jane giunchi, Margaret Howell, medusa, mr darren, Mr Darren, Newfanglenesse, petticoat magazine, Steve Hiett, steven hiett, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Viyella smock by Alkasura. Medusa shorts. Universal Witness bag.

Picture yourself in a land of featherlight voile and dewy country cotton, buzzing with tiny weeny flybynight characters, and you might find a lovely romantic fairytale ending…

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from Petticoat, 26th June 1971.

Cotton shorts and top from Crowthers. Cotton skirt from Van der Fransen. Crowthers cotton shirt and shirt. Oversmock by Mr Darren. Badges by Jane Giunchi.
Voile shorts and yoked top by Mr Darren. Leather choker from Alkasura. Voile shorts and smock by Mr Darren. Enamel pendant by Newfangelnesse.
Crowthers cotton shorts and shirt. Margaret Howell green and yellow vest. Jane Giunchi badge.
Cotton shirt and shorts by Crowthers. Belt and pendant by Newfanglenesse.
Clobber crepe smock. Newfanglenesse pendant. Van de Fransen panama.

Honey, you’ve gone too far!

1960s, celia birtwell, Francis Ford, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, James Moncur, John Craig, Michael Berkofsky, ossie clark, quorum, Steve Hiett, steven hiett, Susan Barry, Trille, Vintage Editorials

honey you've gone too far 1

The gist of this editorial seems to be that only the tinest breasted ladies can wear the Ossies, but I have to respectfully and fundamentally disagree. The Ossie tunic on the cover was, along with some matching trousers, later chosen as The Fashion Museum‘s Dress of the Year 1969.

Blonde model photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Brunette model photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, November 1968.

honey you've gone too far 2

Fluffy frilly blouse by Quorum.

honey you've gone too far 3

Tunic by Ossie Clark.

honey you've gone too far 4

Red chiffon blouse by John Craig.

honey you've gone too far 5

Ruffled black dress by Francis Ford.

honey you've gone too far 6

Low, plungey-neck dress in red satin by James Moncur.

honey you've gone too far 7

Black crepe sleeveless dress by Susan Barry.

Inspirational Editorials: The Greatest Underclothes on Earth

1960s, 1970s, Aspidistra, british boutique movement, Finewear, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, janet reger, John Dove and Molly White, Lovable, Mexicana, steven hiett, underwear, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

Top left: Red lace waspie by Janet Reger. Transparent white net bra embroidered with hearts by Emanuelle Khanh. Ankle slip by Mexicana. Main image: Serpent and hearts rampant on a sheer peach bodystocking by Molly Dove for Aspidestra, to order at Countdown.

Top left: Red lace waspie by Janet Reger. Transparent white net bra embroidered with hearts by Emanuelle Khanh. Ankle slip by Mexicana. Main image: Serpent and hearts rampant on a sheer peach bodystocking by Molly Dove for Aspidistra, to order at Countdown.

Wonderful to see further mention of John Dove and Molly White’s ‘Aspidistra’ label and to actually see one of the tattoed body stockings which were illustrated in this earlier post on my blog. Also, regular readers will know of my passion for Seventies underwear in general, and Janet Reger underwear in particular, so this stunningly photographed editorial is pretty much win-win as far as I’m concerned. Bubble perm included…

Photographed by Steve Hiett. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1970

Red and navy chevrons on white. By Janet Reger.

Red and navy chevrons on white. By Janet Reger.

Set by Lovable

Set by Lovable

Camisole petticoat by Finewear

Camisole petticoat by Finewear

Top: Slip by Foale and Tuffin. Centre: Slip by Finewear. Bottom: Bodice and petticoat by Finewear.

Top: Slip by Foale and Tuffin. Centre: Slip by Finewear. Bottom: Bodice and petticoat by Finewear.

Inspirational Images: Ironing in your undies

1970s, Abecita, Dorothy Perkins, Gossard, Inspirational Images, margit brandt, Marks and Spencer, steven hiett, underwear, Vintage Editorials, Warners

Left by Gossard. Right by Marks and Spencer.

A Little More Than Nothing

I must confess that I often find myself ironing in my underwear. Likewise cooking and cleaning. Seems a shame to get things dirty and creased, or myself all hot and bothered, whilst doing household chores. I fear this ‘outs’ me as rather anally retentive as far as clothes are concerned but, I don’t imagine it comes as much of a surprise to anyone.

The other thing with ironing is that I am often ironing a particular outfit at the last minute (having changed my mind fifteen times already…) and it needs to be instantly yanked on while I fly out of the door (having checked twenty times that the iron is turned off. Yes, I am also OCD). So I smiled a smile of familiarity when I saw these gorgeous photographs by Steve Hiett for Flair Magazine.

As always, Seventies undies completely trump all modern underwear as far as I am concerned…

Photographed by Steve Hiett. Scanned from Flair, August 1972

Left by Margit Brandt for Femilet. Right by Warners.

Left by Abecita. Right by Dorothy Perkins.

The Colour Craze

barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, caroline arber, didier duval, hair, Make-up, mary quant, seventies fashion, steven hiett, vanity fair

Green says Biba. Photo by Caroline Arber.

All the top beauty talent is currently colour-crazy – and we’re very much for it; it’s a fabulous enlivener of the grey winter scene. Your party look could be a variant of any of the gloriously off-beat ideas you see here – and anyone who considers green lips unnatural might dwell, briefly, on the knock-you-down naturalness of bright plum or orange ones.

Vanity Fair, December 1971

Violet says Pablo – Elizabeth Arden’s ebullient young creative director.

Rainbow hair says Michael at Crimpers. Photo by Steve Hiett.

Any colours you like says Vanity Fair, using Mary Quant’s crayons. Photo by Didier Duval.