
Night for evening: The Party Pyjamas in soft silks and satins.
Photographed in the Ballroom and Crystal Room of The Berkeley Hotel.
Hair by Keith at Smile.
Photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned from Vogue, late April 1974.


Night for evening: The Party Pyjamas in soft silks and satins.
Photographed in the Ballroom and Crystal Room of The Berkeley Hotel.
Hair by Keith at Smile.
Photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned from Vogue, late April 1974.


Scarves, instead of being dismissed as last year’s fashion gimmick, are being perpetuated as this year’s most important accessory. Still the simplest way to wear a scarf is to flip a long one casually college-style around the neck. As long as it’s not literally a college scarf this somehow adds enough chic to whatever you wear, without making you look fussily overdressed. There are dozens of different ways to tie a scarf. Smart French girls are tying scarves around their waists, twisted in with chain belts or beads. Marc Bohan at Dior makes headscarves tied pirate-style look young and chic, and shows scarves tied like a man’s tie. Although large squares will still be in demand to wear on the head or folded up as cravats, the big fashion in scarves is still for long ones, preferably fringed. Men will have to accept with a good grace that they have lost their long-established monopoly of fringed silk scarves. Until now almost the only places to find them were men’s departments, antique market stalls or somebody’s attic. (Shawls are the latest craze from jumble sales.) But shopping for scarves is easier this spring, with stocks at last in every shape and size. Hair by Valerie at Cheveux, 15 Abingdon Road, London W8.
Fashion by Liz Smith.
Photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned from The Observer Magazine, March 1969.








Now there’s hardware and haberdashery, furnishings and fabrics, cosmetics and mens-wear, all carrying the Biba label. Their brave transition from dolly boutique to department store was made last week when Biba opened in Kensington High Street. Although a baby store compared with neighbouring Barker’s, Biba does boast marble floors, a carved gallery from the old St Paul’s school, and a commissionaire at the huge glass doors.
Faithful customers can still find among the familiar palm fronds clothes to wear themselves or put on their children, but everything is on a much bigger scale. Colour-matched underwear and tights are on sale in a special conservatory-style department, and there’s a complete range of Biba makeup and cosmetics, and many more accessories.
But what’s really new, are the clothes for men, and the things for the house.
There’s nothing simple or austere about a Biba home life. The girl whose idea of some-thing comfortable to wear around the house is a slinky satin dress chooses a plush back-ground and hardware that’s softly elegant. Cutlery is rich-looking in gilt and mother of pearl, or silver and ebony. China is white and gold, glasses are chunky goblets. Specially printed wallpapers and furnishing fabrics, plain satins, felts, braids and trimmings, have carefully matched emulsion paints, lamp-shades and cushions, all in a range of 15 colours. Biba are selling the raw materials so that you can make what you want of them. The clue to their own style is Art Nouveau, but the way you choose to use them will be your own.
Biba men’s clothes are worn in these pictures by James Fox, who can currently be seen in ‘Isadora’ and whose new film, ‘Performance’, in which he co-stars with Mick Jagger, comes out next month.
Mr Fox is long and slender and can have little problem kitting himself out elegantly, but the clothes he wears here, plus others by Biba in velvets and tweeds, all come in a size range bigger than most. So fatter men can have fun with clothes too, and at a reasonable price.
By Liz Smith.
Photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned from The Observer Magazine, 21st September 1969.
Biba 3 is definitely the Biba I’m most captivated by, I think possibly because it was edged out so quickly by the much bigger (and more Deco) Big Biba and yet was, I think, the perfect encapsulation of the aesthetic and the first time the ‘department store’ ideal was manifested. Basically, I wish there were more photos so I do try and scan them when I find them! It’s also nice to see the menswear getting a bit of attention for once.



Picture yourself in a land of featherlight voile and dewy country cotton, buzzing with tiny weeny flybynight characters, and you might find a lovely romantic fairytale ending…
Photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned from Petticoat, 26th June 1971.






The gist of this editorial seems to be that only the tinest breasted ladies can wear the Ossies, but I have to respectfully and fundamentally disagree. The Ossie tunic on the cover was, along with some matching trousers, later chosen as The Fashion Museum‘s Dress of the Year 1969.
Blonde model photographed by Mike Berkofsky.
Brunette model photographed by Steve Hiett.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, November 1968.

Fluffy frilly blouse by Quorum.

Tunic by Ossie Clark.

Red chiffon blouse by John Craig.

Ruffled black dress by Francis Ford.

Low, plungey-neck dress in red satin by James Moncur.

Black crepe sleeveless dress by Susan Barry.

Top left: Red lace waspie by Janet Reger. Transparent white net bra embroidered with hearts by Emanuelle Khanh. Ankle slip by Mexicana. Main image: Serpent and hearts rampant on a sheer peach bodystocking by Molly Dove for Aspidistra, to order at Countdown.
Wonderful to see further mention of John Dove and Molly White’s ‘Aspidistra’ label and to actually see one of the tattoed body stockings which were illustrated in this earlier post on my blog. Also, regular readers will know of my passion for Seventies underwear in general, and Janet Reger underwear in particular, so this stunningly photographed editorial is pretty much win-win as far as I’m concerned. Bubble perm included…
Photographed by Steve Hiett. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1970
A Little More Than Nothing
I must confess that I often find myself ironing in my underwear. Likewise cooking and cleaning. Seems a shame to get things dirty and creased, or myself all hot and bothered, whilst doing household chores. I fear this ‘outs’ me as rather anally retentive as far as clothes are concerned but, I don’t imagine it comes as much of a surprise to anyone.
The other thing with ironing is that I am often ironing a particular outfit at the last minute (having changed my mind fifteen times already…) and it needs to be instantly yanked on while I fly out of the door (having checked twenty times that the iron is turned off. Yes, I am also OCD). So I smiled a smile of familiarity when I saw these gorgeous photographs by Steve Hiett for Flair Magazine.
As always, Seventies undies completely trump all modern underwear as far as I am concerned…
Photographed by Steve Hiett. Scanned from Flair, August 1972
All the top beauty talent is currently colour-crazy – and we’re very much for it; it’s a fabulous enlivener of the grey winter scene. Your party look could be a variant of any of the gloriously off-beat ideas you see here – and anyone who considers green lips unnatural might dwell, briefly, on the knock-you-down naturalness of bright plum or orange ones.
Vanity Fair, December 1971