That old black magic

1970s, alice pollock, alistair cowin, biba, Buckle Under, bus stop, celia birtwell, christian dior, christopher mcdonnell, corocraft, Dolcis, edward mann, Elgee, Elle, Fenwick, flair magazine, George Malyard, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Hiroshi, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jean muir, John Craig, kangol, Ken Lane, lee bender, leonard, lilley and skinner, Malyard, Marks and Spencer, marrian mcdonnell, mary quant, Miss Impact, ossie clark, quorum, Russell & Bromley, Sheraton, simon massey, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
The witching hour—smock shirt dress, white birds flying on yards and yards of transparent black georgette, Alice Pollock for Quorum, £36.75. In her hair, crescent moon £3, and a flash of lightning slide £5.25. Both from the House of Leonard.

Black, the old enchanter. Bewitching, mysterious, romantic. In velvet, satin and soft silk jersey. Dramatic alone or shouting with colour. That timeless black magic still weaves its ancient spell.

Hair by Leonard.

Photographed by Hiroshi.

Scanned from Flair, November 1971.

In best black style. Left : tailored single-breasted embossed velvet jacket, £16.75; matching skirt, £12.60; matching velvet hat £3.50. Brown tea rose, £1.05. All from Biba. Black thorn walking stick from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Right : Silver birds on black velvet blazer, £13.95, satin shirt with black cravat, £5.95; ankle length skirt, £4.95. All from Bus Stop. Sweeping ostrich feather hat by Edward Mann, £3.85.

Celia Birtwell printed Marocaine shirt by Ossie Clark for Quorum, £7.50. Red Poppies, 35p each, Fenwick.

Romantic panne velvet dress by Simon Massey, £16. White full-blown rose on black velvet ribbon, both from John Lewis. Black chenille snood, £1.95 Fenwick.

Graceful blouse with elasticated waist, over matching rayon flared skirt, £21.50 by Mary Quant. Silver diamante belt by Ken Lane, £21.50. Quant’s butterfly tights, Farfalla, 95p. Diamante paste clover leaf on black velvet ribbon, £7.90 by St Laurent Rive Gauche. Black ostrich feather, 55p Biba.

Printed shirtdress buttoned up with red hearts. By Gillian Richard, £9.50. Red heart necklace, £19 by Christian Dior. Sweeping black felt hat, by Buckle Under, £8.

For high coloured drama put black with traffic light colours : red, yellow green and strong electric blue.
Wool jersey vest by Sydica at Miss Impact, £4.90. Heart necklace from Elle, £3.75.

Cotton velveteen shirt £9.75, and culottes £7.75. By Alistair Cowin. Jersey wool shirt by John Craig, £4.80. Black leather belt, Fenwick £2.45. Suede boots banded in red, yellow and green, Lilley and Skinner £10.95. Velvet cap by Malyard £5, pinned with red star by Corocraft, 99p.

Warming up to black, in strictly daytime mood, our model wears Guerlains Teint Dore for a real tawny tint, 99p with Juvena’s Sahara Sun Blush Colour Stick as a highlighter, £1.63. Her. eyelids are coloured in Boots No 7 Transparent Eye Tint, 40p, and her lipstick is Chanel Corail, 95p.

Wrap around, tie belted wool jacket. £10.50. Over red Oxford Bags £6.50. Both by Alastair Cowin. Tartan wool man’s scarf, Scotch House £1.25. Black suede beret by Malyard, £16.

The little black dress revamped by Jean Muir in crepe de chine with puffed sleeves, demure bow and flared skirt, £21. Black suede strappy shoes, Russell & Bromley, £19.95. Sheer black tights, Mary Quant, 65p. Rhinestone star, St Laurent Rive Gauche £2.50.

Tie round black wool midi coat, topstitched in white, £22. Matching trousers, £6.25. Both by Elgee. Black and white Orlon tweedy knit tunic jumper, Marks and Spencer £2.95. Herbert Johnson knitted wool cap, £2.50.

Black wool tent coat by Stirling Cooper for Sheraton £16.95. Black wool Kangol beret, 65p. Black and plum suede lace up shoes, Dolcis £8.95. On collar, cupid heart brooch, St Laurent Rive Gauche £14.

Black wool jersey nautical blazer, £15.25, over grey and white knitted wool trouser suit, £28.25. Both by Christopher McDonnell for Marrian-McDonnell. Mock mother of pearl clips, Biba 35p each.

black velvet smoking jacket, £10.50; ankle high skirt in red, yellow and black wool tartan, £5.75. Both from Bus Stop. Cupid heart brooch, Rive Gauche £14. White shetland jumper, £5.50 Scotch House.

Put yourself in the picture

1970s, alice pollock, Angela Salmon, Bill King, Chichi, cosmopolitan, Inspirational Images, janet reger, jean varon, john bates, mild sauce, Penny Graham, quorum, The Prop Shop, Vintage Editorials
Despite the distractions, Chichi hangs on to her hat and her colouring book, wears a lucky tarot card print poncho top, £25, and mid-calf skirt, £20, by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Bangles chosen from a selection at Adrien Mann.

In clothes we dare you to wear!

Make a name for yourself in 1974. Be an inspiration, a focal point, an innovator. Paint a positive future and make January a beautiful time. Experiment with colours. Branch out and try some totally different styles. Don’t go along with the rest of the girls—start up your own school, you’ll soon have plenty of followers. Begin by studying your best points, then set about accentuating them. If your skin gleams, show it off; if your waist is small, cinch it; if your legs are great, make certain that they are seen. The clothes here are not cheap, but like every good artist it’s vital to invest in good materials for long-lasting results. They will be appreciated for a long time to come ...

Styling by Penny Graham.

Photographs by Bill King.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1974.

I do love some equal opportunities Mild Sauce. These clothes are amongst some of my most coveted pieces, especially that outrageously plunging back John Bates dress. If you thought that McQueen invented the ‘bumsters’, remember that someone else has always got there first!

Make a strong statement. Frame your back with this year’s most dramatic scoop. Chichi in a clinging dress with pointed mediaeval sleeves—by John Bates for Jean Varon, £62.95.

Between sittings is no time to collapse. Chichi slips into something small and adds a rope of pearls for that Ritz- y finish. Camiknickers by Janet Reger, £15; pearls from Ciro.

Chichi makes the perfect portrait in a spider’s web dress dangerous enough to trap any hot-blooded male. Dress by John Bates for Jean Varon, £39.

A switch of scenery, a new source of inspiration. Chichi wrapped romantically in a glamorous film star dressing gown by Janet Reger, £48.

The painted lady. Chichi switches roles and dances a wild tarantella. The sleeves are pulled off the shoulders for an abandoned gipsy look. Silk dress by Angela Salmon for The Prop Shop, £85.

Something to slip into

1970s, Adrian Mann, alice pollock, Antiquarius, bus stop, Butler & Wilson, C&A, che guevara, Deco Inspired, edward mann, Gilles Ben Simon, Glynn Manson, Honey Magazine, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Jackie Ross, Jon Elliot, lee bender, outlander, quorum, Roger Nelson, stirling cooper, Susie Craker, Vintage Editorials
Beige cotton swagger-back jacket with contrasting collar and turn-back cuffs £12 ; beige short-sleeved cotton button-through shirt £6-50; extra wide cotton Oxford bags £8, all by Ian Batten for Stirling Cooper, from 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at branches of Peter Robinson. Bug brooch, Butler & Wilson £4-50; thin gilt snake neck chain, Miss Selfridge 75p; ivory bangles £5 each from Butler & Wilson.

Something like these easy-to-wear, soft crêpe or finely knitted swing-back duster jackets, teamed with wide lounging trousers or slit pencil skirts. They’re cool, casual and chic—easily the most comfortable outfits around.

Photographed by Gilles Ben Simon.

Scanned from Honey, May 1973.

Grey crêpe swagger-back jacket with faint white stripe and wide front revers £8.95, worn with matching trousers £7.95, both by Lee Bender for Bus Stop from all branches of Bus Stop, (mail order 25p from 3 Kensington Church Street W8). Acrylic and linen knitted sleeveless top with gathered bust detail, Outlander £4.60, from Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1 (mail order 15p) ; Beige, Oxford Street, W1 ; Sheila Worth, New Bond Street, W1 ; Stephen Tremayne, Walton-on-Thames ; Samuel Cooper, Wilmslow. Egg-shaped bead necklace, Adrien Mann 90p ; cream and black elasti-cised plastic bracelet, Gay Designs £3.50 ; thin white bangle, Paul Stephens 17p.

Acrylic and linen knitted jacket with wide turn-back sleeves £10.30, and matching vest with stripes on the bust £4.20, both by Outlander, from main branches of Wallis ; Fenwicks, Bond Street, W1 (mail order 20p) ; Sheila Worth, New Bond Street, W1 and branches. Crêpe lounging trousers, Alice Pollock for Quorum £8 approx, from Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3, Heath Street, Hampstead, NW3, and their shops at branches of Peter Robinson. Gilt and silver necklace, Miss Selfridge £1.45 ; thin gilt snake neck chain, Miss Selfridge 75p; deco clip worn as earring, Universal Witness 25p; white plastic bangle, Paul Stephens 17p ; gilt and silver bracelet, Miss Selfridge 70p ; thin plastic bangles, Paul Stephens 10p.

Black and white knitted vest top with wide straps and big white button detail £1.95 approx, with matching wide-sleeved duster jacket £4.95, both by Glynn Manson, from Goodban Ltd, Chiswick, W4; Brown & Phillips, Deal; Townrows, Braintree; Avannes, Edinburgh. Tight white Trevira pencil skirt with large black buttons and front slit, C & A £2.75, from main branches of C & A. White crochet pull-on hat, Edward Mann £2.60; black 1920s bug brooch, Butler & Wilson £4.50; black and white cylindrical bead choker, Adrien Mann, £1; black and cream checkered elasticised bracelet, Butler & Wilson £3; thin bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each; tights, Mary Quant 40p.

Crepe-de-chine jacket with large front patch pockets, cuffed sleeves and own tie belt, Suzy Craker for Roger Nelson £12 approx, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8; Stock, High Holborn, WC1 ; Coundown, King’s Road, SW3. Acrylic and linen finely knitted long-sleeved sweater, Outlander £3.60 ; silver and cream brooch, Dando at Antiquarius £2.50.

Grey and white polka-dot crêpe swagger-back jacket £8.95, and matching wide trousers £7.95, both from all branches of Bus Stop. Finely striped long-sleeved beige and white sweater, Outlander £4.50, from main branches of Wallis; Dickins Et Jones, Regent Street, W1 (mail order 15p) ; Image, Bath. Thin brown patent belt and thin white patent belt, Gay Designs 69p each; cream plastic egg-shaped bead choker 90p, and small white glass bead necklace £1.60, both by Adrien Mann ; plastic bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each; thin metal bangles, Corocraft 69p; grey clip earrings, Paul Stephens 25p.

Rust, cream and brown Madras check cotton duster suit with white elasticated trim, Jakie Ross for Jon Elliot, trousers £7.90, jacket £9.90, both from Merle, Thurloe Street, SW7; Goodshop Lollipop, Gloucester Road, SW7; Sidney Smith, King’s Road, SW3 (mail order 25p) ; The Klink, Peckham. Black and white plastic leaf necklace, Adrien Mann, £1.50 ; black and cream chequered elasticated bracelet, Butler & Wilson £3 plain ivory bangles, Butler & Wilson £5.50 each.

Today’s Paper

1970s, 1980s, alice pollock, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Over 21, post modernism, roger stowell
She wears: Vivien Knowland’s paper ‘coolie’ hat, a fan necklace to make as well, and a stripey strapless knitted top by Alice Pollock and Catherine Blair, £20 at 16 Russell Street, London WC2. Paper fan, comes with wooden stand, £5.94 from Ehrman, 123 Fulham Road, London SW3.

Light, bright, plain or pleated, it’s the new way to put colour back into your home and fun into furnishing.

Photographed by Roger Stowell.

Scanned from Over 21 Magazine, April 1979.

Knitwear’s Never Had it So Good

1970s, alice pollock, Annie Cossins, Crochetta, erica budd, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, John Craig, Kensington Super Store, knitwear, mary quant, Mike Magic, mr freedom, Syndica, Tony Moussoulides, Vintage Editorials
Emerald green pullover in pure wool, with multicoloured flying parrot, John and Molly Dove for Jasper, £8.40.

The knitwear industry has at long last pulled its needles out and has amazed us all with the most brilliant, zappy knits ever. One-colour sweaters have gone back where they came from—now you need at least three colours, and the brightest, most startling design you can find. Take your pick from oozing cream buns, bold geometric stripes and pyramids and all kinds of technicolour patterns—why leave parrots to the pet shops?

Photographed by Tony Moussoulides.

Scanned from Honey, August 1971.

Stripey rainbow knitted pure wool pullover, Annie Cossins, £5.95. Mr Freedom, Kensington Church Street, W8.
Mulberry and cinnamon Acrylic sweetheart sweater Janine at Harold Ingram, £2.25
Clockwise from top left: Brilliant block printed Acrylic mini sweater, Erica Budd, £3.90. / Hot orange wool boucle sweater with a cream cake motif, Crochetta, £8. / Scarlet heart patterned wool sweater, Annie Cossins, £5.95. Mike Magic, Kensington Super Store, W8 / Quartered Orlon jockey sweater, Erica Budd, £3.50. / Pyramid printed Acrylic sweater, John Craig, £4. / Zig-zag patterned Acrylic pullover, McCaul, £5. / Clingy bright blue wool boucle sweater with road sign motif, Crochetta, £8. / Lightning Superman printed Acrilan sweater, Syndica, £4.
Lazy daisy embroidered wool sweater in pink, navy and yellow. Mary Quant. £6.
Pure white wool sweater with scar:et and navy flower embroidered sleeves Alice Pollock, £7.
Pooh Bear mini Acrilan sweater in bottle green and canary yellow, Mary Quant, £3.

Hong Kong

19 magazine, 1970s, Alan Rodin, alice pollock, antony price, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, Bata, biba, Inspirational Images, John Bishop, Jolly and Marsh, lilley and skinner, Norma Moriceau, ravel, stirling cooper, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
Palest green Dicel satin blouse with glass buttons, £5.25. Apple green circular skirt in silk and rayon mixture, £8.75. Both from Universal Witness. Green tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Red patent shoes from Yves Saint Laurent, £14.

The look is tarty—and where better to go for background atmosphere than Hong Kong, sinful city of the Orient, perfect setting for saucy ladies of ill-repute. In this rich, bustling East/West meeting point, with its maze of colourful streets and endless shops bursting with tax-free jade, pearls and cameras. one gets the feeling that beyond these elegant facades are hidden opium dens, James Bond intrigues, and seamy Suzie Wong bars. We took the ferry across from Kowloon to Hong Kong and travelled to Aberdeen—a small, picturesque harbour inlet filled with over eight thousand junks and sampans, ornate floating restaurants selling delicious, fresh seafood, and crowded local markets.

Styled by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by John Bishop.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1971.

The styling and clothes in this editorial (I mean, green tights and red platforms? Swoon!) are something close to flawless. Unlike the copy – which I have still posted as a historical document – and also, possibly, the use of local residents as ‘extras’. I occasionally feel the need to clarify that I don’t necessarily endorse all elements of things I post, but I also don’t think it benefits us to completely censor history – especially when one is creating an archive.

Satin print blouse, from Van Der Fransen, £2. Blue cotton skirt with white print and ruffled dipping hem, by Universal Witness, £7.35. Tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Purple leather sandals, from Bata International, £7. Satin shawl with black fringing, from Van Der Fransen, £5.
White sleeveless Dicel satin dress with large blue flower design, by Universal Witness, £14.70. Apple green mock lizard sandals, by Bally, £6-50. Bracelet from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
Moss crepe dress by Alice Pollock at Radley, £13.50. Tight by Mary Quant, 75p. Patent wedge sandals by Yves Saint Laurent, £14. Bracelets from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
White crepe dress with moon print and matching shorts by Antony Price at Stirling Cooper, £10. Ankle strap shoes, from Ravel, £5.99.
Cotton jersey halter-neck top and slit skirt in green and yellow floral print, by Alan Rodin, £5. Navy suede laced sandals, by Lilley and Skinner, £8.95. Bracelet from a selection at Jolly and Marsh.
Black Tricel dress with beige print has cap sleeves and sash tie, by Biba, £8.55. Navy sandals with lacings, by Lilley and Skinner, £8.95. Neckklace from a selection at Kensington Market. Rings are model’s own. Flower from Fogg and Wakefield.

Smart Things

19 magazine, alice pollock, british boutique movement, Digby Howard, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, manolo blahnik, ossie clark, quorum, sheridan barnett, Vintage Editorials, zapata

A 19 SPECIAL PREVIEW OF AN EXCITING DESIGNER’S COLLECTION

Sheridan Barnett, pictured above, is the young designer who gave Coopers such a good look and who has now joined the Quorum label, with Ossie Clark and Alice Pollock. At twenty-six, he has established himself as the most exciting designer in London, with a fabulous first collection for Quorum that left them clapping in the aisles. Women’s Wear Daily, the fashion bible of America, devoted an entire double-page spread to his collection, previously unheard of for an English designer. He designs with his girlfriend, a ballet dancer, in mind, and ladies like Grace Coddington, model Eija and Liza Minnelli: “Girls who are individual and chic, interesting, attractive and with oomph . .” and likes them to look alluring, classy and sexy. At the moment, his clothes are expensive but we are hopeful that, later on, they will be available in the cheaper Radley range as Ossie Clark’s clothes are. Meanwhile look out for similar lines.

My slightly belated tribute to the great Sheridan Barnett, who died in November. He is one of those many British designers of the time whose work doesn’t really get the attention he deserves; as you can see here his tailoring was exquisite.

All clothes by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum.

Shoes by Zapata. Hats by Digby Howard.

Hair by Ricci Burns.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1973.

Cosmo Girls: José Fonseca

1970s, alice pollock, cosmopolitan, Inspirational Images, José Fonseca, Michael Berkofsky, ossie clark, Penny Graham, quorum, sheridan barnett
José at play relaxing at the Meridiana restaurant Long wrap dress made in crepe de Chine by Sheridan Barnett for Quorum.

José Fonseca is the co-owner of Models One, a busy model agency with top names like Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton on the books.

“As a child, I loved fancy dress and I still like breaking the fashion rules. I go to the office in clothes that can take me to a party afterwards—I just don’t know how to wear casual clothes perhaps because I hate my bottom! I feel more like a woman in long skirts than in pants or jeans. Ever since Ossie Clark made his first mid-calf skirt I have been trailing along—Ossie-style. I wear a lot of black because it always makes me feel fantastic. I like the anonymity of black and the way you can use it as a foil for jewellery and scarves. I went mad on sequins last winter. I bought jackets, berets, even a gold sequin ‘Twenties theatrical outfit—I like to sparkle. I wear a lot of make-up as I feel I can hide behind it. My hair used to be straight but I wanted a change so I had it cut and curled and then permed. But I’m going to grow it out.”

This is a part of a larger feature with ‘real’ Cosmo women putting fashion to the test, but this is definitely my favourite one.

Fashion by Penny Graham.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, March 1974.

José at work in a black crepe and satin top and long skirt by Alice Pollock. Ivory beads and silver belt were found in an antique market.

“Whatever she selects has taste…”

1970s, alice pollock, british boutique movement, cosmopolitan, ossie clark, quorum, Random Ossies in Adverts, Vintage Adverts

Obviously I do not condone the message as regards the product being advertised here, but what an amazing, ephemeral capture of the Quorum boutique window with Ossies on both the model and the mannequin (‘Bridget’ and ‘Cuddly’ respectively). I also think that might possibly be the ghostly figure of Alice Pollock in the background.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, November 1973.

Anarchists go their own sweet way

alice pollock, beauty, biba, gala, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Jill Harley, kari ann muller, Make-up, Steve Hiett

They break boring beauty traditions and riot lip colours go on eyes, eye colours go on lips. Upside down- Quite contrary. And why not? Make-up was getting so dreary. We just stuck to the rules and slicked warm colours—pink, amber, soft orange—on our mouths, and cool colours—grey, green, blue, brown—on our eyes. Till now. Till the anarchists started this new groove. Now things are happening. Putting on a face isn’t a daily chore to be done as quickly as possible. Make-up is something to enjoy. It’s art. Total fun. Total fantasy. After all, painting on warm mobile skin is so much more exciting than .cold fiat paper or canvas. Come, join the anarchy party and experiment with colour. Sit down this evening in front of a well-lit mirror, not the telly, and design surprise eyes.

Alice Pollock (top) says she would like to be invisible (can’t think why) and her favourite perfume is Chanel No. 5. She has tried every hair colour under the sun, including green, but she’s glad it’s her own shade now—”At least I know who I am when I wake up.” Every morning she washes it in the bath with Boots Herbal Shampoo, 2s. 11d. On her eye-lids she paints Leichner’s Ivory Stick No. 5, 5s. 3d., and then an arc of pale green under the brow and round along the cheek-bone. Her lip-colour is a mixture of the same Leichner stick and Christian Dior’s Sepia 61 lipstick, 15s.


Moon (centre left, whose real name is Constance Mullens and who was nicknamed after a South African cartoon character called Moon Mullens) wears Mary Quant’s Citrus Jeepers Peepers, 18s. 7d., on her eye-lids and a purple Caran D’ache water crayon all round the eyes to tone with her hair which is cleverly coloured mauve and butterscotch by Erik and styled by Herta at Vidal Sassoon, Grosvenor House; 01-629 2463. Her favourite perfume is jasmin and, asked what the most vital beauty product is, she said, “a razor.”


Gala Mitchell (centre right) is a beautifully original actress. You may have seen her before in Ken Russell’s television film about the Pre-Raphaelites. Her most treasured beauty product is lipstick. Here she’s wearing Biba’s purple lip-tint, 5s., with black liner round her mouth. She uses more of Revlon’s Natural Wonder Lid Liners, 17s. 6d., to paint intriguing black spots across part of her face to symbolise a veil, and then twists a string of blue curls, tinted by Erik, amongst her copper hair which she keeps in place with two ’40s tortoiseshell hair-combs.


Kari Ann Moller (bottom left) says she wants to look like the wicked witch in fairy tales, yet she loves cosy perfumes like Apple Blossom and Lily of the Valley (Coty’s Muguet des Bois Creamy Skin Parfum, 17s. 6d.), and she couldn’t live without Nivea. “I found an old purple crayon in my boyfriend’s car—he’s a painter—so I’m wearing purple with a dab of lipstick and Leichner silver sparklers on my eyes today, plus tart red lipstick by Elizabeth Arden.” Her soft ginger wig is by Ricci Burns, 151 Kings Rd., S.W.3.


Jill Harley (bottom right) never wears fake eyelashes now, she’s only interested in colour: Chrome stick by Leichner.. 5s. 3d., with Gait orange paint near the socket line and Dorothy Gray’s Light-Up Yellow lipstick, 11s. 6d., as a highlighter for her eyes. Woltz ltaliana’s pale green polish, Laguna, goes on her nails to match up with her pale green wellingtons. Instead of expensive face-shapers, she brushes on Miners’ Frosted Brown Powder Eye Shadow, 2s. 10d. For her lips, she mixes an old red lipstick with Boots 17 Shiny Brown Eye Shadow Stick, 2s. 6d.

Two of my favourite models + one of my favourite designers + some wild 1970 make-up = happy Liz.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from Honey, September 1970.