Admittedly it takes a good eye, the sort that can look over a pile of old garments and see what you can make of them, and they of you. Then it needs a little adventure, to team old clothes with improbable but right accessories. It may also demand scissors and a needle and thread, but it’s the perfect way to beat imitation—and inflation.
Photographed by David Tack.
Scanned from Honey Magazine, November 1974.
I’m always delighted and fascinated by articles like this, somehow proving that certain interests are just innate in some people, and some things simply never change. Fifty years later, new generations are still discovering the joys of second hand clothes as though nobody ever thought of it before.
There was a storm in a Tiktok teacup earlier this year when someone declared that resellers were the Landlords of the Millennial generation. In what felt like a heady mix of inverted snobbery and undiluted envy at some people’s eye for a bargain, they declared second hand clothes were only for the poorest people and it was immoral to be making money out of them. In fact, I think it’s safe to say that it must be one of the oldest jobs in the world. In centuries gone by, the finest clothes were left in wills, given to servants, resold, remodelled and recycled until they were practically rags – which is why we have so little left in completely original condition.
On top of this long history, here in the Seventies (and then right up until the present day) you can see the glamourising of second hand clothes as a perfect counterbalance to the ever-expanding, and ever-cheapening, fashion industry. I also can’t help noticing that the belted sack dress (see further down) and bangle combination looks like something you might have seen in Topshop in the early 1980s. Proving that secondhand is often more fashion-forward than what you find in the shops.
A new look at dressing gowns: Soft cotton or silky wrapover dressing gowns can easily be found at jumble sales and markets. Fastened with a pretty brooch or with a scarf tied round the waist, they’re much nicer to wear around the house than that tatty old quilted thing your mum gave you! A bonus is that they can double as a dress or even a coat over jeans for the daytime. Paisley print robe £1, from Portobello Road Market. Painted bone fan with slotted blue ribbon, Chimera.
A little colour goes to your head: To follow the 20s,30s look which has become hot fashion for the evening, why not add a little glamour to a crocheted or knitted beret by sewing on tiny bugle beads (they’re the cylindrical ones). A geometric or floral design can look good—or a motif on one side if you haven’t got the patience to cover the whole of the beret. Antique beaded beret from a selection starting at about £10 from Carla Sklan at Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SW3.
The soft touch pulled into shape: Most of the prettiest second-hand dresses to be found have waist measurements which are really enormous and the idea of darting and reshaping them can offset the low price. To combat this we cut a strip from the hem about 3in wide, cut it in half width-wise and doubled it over to make two strips to tie round the back. Even easier would be to attach two narrow ribbon ties. Our dress from a selection at Orange Box, Camden Passage, N1.
Two for the top:Hats are still one of the most important accessories you can buy or make, and they look especially good if they’re bedecked with feathers or trimmings. If your purse demands you try your own hand at millinery, we’ve come up with an idea for trimming a plain felt beret. Just make two small incisions approximately one inch apart and add a natty trio of brightly coloured feathers. This smashing felt cloche with painted applique flowers and leaves is more of a good investment at £10 from Diane Logan, 40 Chiltern Street, WI.
Best suited: Ladies’ tailored suits abound for a mere pittance in most second-hand haunts and, if you accessorise them well, they can become the mainstay of your wardrobe. But nothing ruins the line of a tailored jacket more than out-of-shape shoulders. If you carefully unpick the lining around the armhole and search about, you’ll find it’s probably the fault of deflated shoulder pads. Buy a new pair of foam ones (from haberdashery departments of large stores); enclose each pad in a little square of plain fabric and it’s easy to tack them into place. Another idea to liven up a plain crepe jacket is to add some contrasting fabric on the pocket flaps or, if you have the patience, embroider your initials on a breast pocket. Authentic tweed costume courtesy of Mrs Kilford. Collarless green crêpe embroidered jacket, Orange Box £4.50. Feather-trimmed felt hat, to hire from Diane Logan ; long crêpe-de-chine patterned scarf, Essences £2: belt from a selection at Fenwick ; cane, Biba ; fox fur, Orange Box £4.50; green earrings and double bird brooch, Medusa’s Heirlooms. All Orange Box clothes from Camden Passage, 33 Islington Green, London N1.
Taking your nightie to a party: It doesn’t have to be a choice between a jewelled gown or your old jeans for a party. A long old-fashioned satin nightie is just about the prettiest and sexiest thing you could wear—and you won’t look too dressed up or contrived. And if you do get home late and tired you’re dressed for bed as well. Ankle-length cap-sleeved embroidered pink satin nightdress £5, from Bombacha, 104 Fulham Road, SW3.
Anything goes: To prove that even the most ordinary old dress can look bang up to date with just a little attention, we found this pleated black sack dress and re-vamped it. Pulled in at the waist with a wide red belt, with lots of red and black glass jewellery, black seamed stockings and your hair up, it soon becomes a show-stopper. Dress from a selection of oldies at Martha’s Market, Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1. All jewellery from Chimera, Antiquarius.
For the good sport in you: Smart dresses and feminine bits and pieces are easier to find than casual sporty outfits, but here’s one solution to show the tomboy in you, and it’s a great way to use that too-big sweater or cardigan you’ve discovered. Team it with striped cut-off men’s summer trousers and a shirt or blouse and flat shoes—the whole outfit could easily cost you less than a fiver. For a more feminine touch, appliqu6—or even sexier, inset—your own lace motif on a blouse. You can buy one at a haberdashery store or cut out a bit of lace from an old petticoat. Hip-length baggy hand-knitted cardigan £1, striped cotton men’s shorts 50p, both from Portobello Road Market. Short-sleeved cream lace-inset Rayon blouse, Essences £3.50. Thin red leather and hessian belt, Fenwick. Huge perspex initial, Mid Twentieth Century at Antiquarius. See-through plastic tube bracelets, £1.50 each from Reflection and Light at Antiquarius. Socks and shoes, model’s own.
Two for the price of one: Above and below : Along with casual clothes, skirts are about the most difficult things to buy secondhand. Here’s a way to solve the problem and gain a matching blouse and skirt from a dress. First remove the side zip (if there is one), then carefully unpick the waist seam. Run a row of gathering round the top about 4″ in, then gently ease it up to fit your waist measurement plus 2″. Attach a strip of petersham about 14″ wide to the outside edge, turn in and finish off the side opening. For the blouse, turn up 1″ of the bottom edge, and thread with a narrow strip of elastic. Yellow and black floral-printed cotton dress, Portobello Road Market £1. Floppy cream silky blouse with elasticated waist and lace-trimmed collar and insets, shown with skirt, £3.50 from The Orange Box, Camden Passage, 33 Islington Green, London NI. Bangles and necklace from a selection at Chimera ; earrings from Medusa’s Heirlooms.
Tighten up: Baggy blouses and shirts may be the most fashionable shape but sometimes it’s nice to show your waist—and with this idea you don’t have to worry about endlessly tucking slippery material back into the waistband of your skirt or trousers. Gather the waist with two rows of shirring elastic, machined close together, remembering to sew a little lower than your actual waistline as the blouse will ride up a bit once it’s gathered. Our candy-striped cotton blouse is from the Portobello Road Market, 60p.
White paper taffeta wedding dress, frilled, ruffled, goffered, tucked. To order. White hat with ostrich and snowy veiling. Both, Bellville Sassoon. Marquise and diamond earclip, £12,580, David Morris. Two strings of pearls, £935, £1,120, Tecla. Pure hypo-allergenic make-up by Almay: Sugar Plum Colour Moist Pearl Lipstick, Fresh Parsley Superlight Eye Shadow, Fir Green Creamy Cake Eyeliner, and Night Green Mascara. Soft Peach Near Nude Foundation, Hush Peach Blusher and Translucent Powder.
To look really beautiful for your own satisfaction, and other peoples’, is one of the pleasures of living—health, dress, make-up, joie de vivre in happy conjunction with each other. Here, the most beautiful of everything, together in beauty.
Model is Marie Helvin.
Make-up by Barbara Daly.
Photographed by Christa Peters.
Scanned from Vogue, December 1971.
Edwardian blue taffeta dress, right, sashed belled sleeves, a hundred ruffles. To order, Bellville Sassoon. Gold and diamond ear-rings, £790, Kutchinsky. Ring, great pearl in diamonds, Andrew Grima, £1,500. Make-up by Yardley: Ace of Hearts Moisture Creme Lipstick. Supertint Foundation Bloom, with Mini Blusher Rose Blush. Eyes: Pink Glow, Blue Streak and Jade Delight from two palettes of Cats-Eyes, made to come alive under the ultra-violet lights in discotheques. Eyebrows brushed with Slate Soul Set Powder Eye Shadow, lashes with Charcoal Mascarade mascara.
Burgundy crepe de chine dress, opposite, deeply V-necked, gathered under the bosom and sashed with a shaped belt. Very full sleeves drawn up along the seam and tied with a bow at the elbow. By Marcel Fenez, £30. Diamond star earrings, £2,200, at Cartier. Diamond crescent, £500, and diamond and pearl crescent, £360, at Collingwood. Make-up by Barbara Daly, with Gala’s Beige Barely There Liquid oundation, Sheer Blush Sheer Finish on cheeks, and Plain Chocolate Locked-In Lipstick. Eyes: Heather Liqui Tint, Black Liqui Lash mascara, Black Eyebrow Pencil. Nails: Extra Red Little Gem Nail Colour
Diamond constellation of stars, with a new moon of diamonds, set on a sky of blue plum moire taffeta, the huge petal ruffle of a long evening dress, rising in front to hide the camisole top, falling at the back. By Nettie Vogues, £55. Set of five Victorian stars, £3,250, moon, £525, at Garrard. Hair, here and on previous pages, by Leonard.
Olivia Newton-John, a seductive siren if ever there was one, wearing an Indian cotton blouse £4.25, silk patchwork skirt £20, Afghanistan tapestry boots £27.50. All from Forbidden Fruit, 325 King’s Road, SW3, or mail order from Forbidden Fruit, 293a Portobello Road, W11 (provided you send 50p postage and packing that is). Embroidered Persian waistcoat £7 from Liberty, Regent Street, W1. Olivia’s seductively reclining on embroidered velvet cushions, anything from £4 to £40 at Rumak and Sample, in The Incredible Department Store, 92 Brompton Road, SW1. Sexy silk tiffany lampshade, £10.50 from Biba, 124-126 Kensington High Street, W8. Imported metallic wallpaper, £5.33 a roll including tax, comes from John Oliver, 33 Pembridge Road, W11. Add 33p postage and packing if you want him to send you some. Everything else comes from Liberty, and if you write to them, they’ll let you know about mail order possibilities. Black Chinese coffee table £45, Victorian frame stool £40, antique Italian column £18, hand-made Iraqi rug from £40. Reproduction painted icon £4.70, giant Boda goblet, one of a pair at £5.95, copper Persian tray £30, and copper Persian plant pot, £17.85.
Brown berets, by Kangol, £1.60 each. Brown galvanized-rubber jacket, £12. Beige and black check skirt, £5.90. Cream tights, 30p. All from Biba. Brown leather shoes, from Sacha, £10-99. Rust galvanized-rubber jacket, £12. Jacquard skirt, £5.90. Cream tights, 30p. All from Biba. Leather shoes, by Chelsea Cobbler at Che Guevara, £13.99.
Haven’t seen you around lately. But then it hasn’t been raining. Oh dear, look out, here it comes…
Photographed by Pelito Galvez.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1973.
Berets, by Kangol, £1.60 each. Sweater, by John Craig, £3. Trench coat, by Sheraton-Stirling Cooper, £23. Tights from Biba, 30p. Shoes from Sacha, £15.99. Satchel, from Che Guevara, £15.95. Gloves from a selection at Harrods. Glasses from a selection at Digby Howard. Sweater from a selection at Harrods. Trench coat, by Sheraton-Stirling Cooper, £23. Tights from Biba, 30p. Shoes from Sacha, £10.99. Fishing bag from a selection at Moss Bros. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.80.
Grey felt hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Beige raincoat, with padded shoulders, by Mary Park for Stirling Cooper, £26. Cream tights, from Biba, 30p. Wellingtons by Dunlop, £1.65. Brown leather shoulder bag, from Che Guevara, £14-95.
Brown felt hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Beige gaberdine trench coat, with check lining, from Burberrys, £36. Cream tights, from Biba, 30p. Brown leather brogue court shoes, from Sacha, £15.99.
Black felt hat, from Burberrys, £3.25. Black French jacquard taffeta raincoat, by Sheridan Barnett for Quorum, £55. Tights from Biba, 30p. Wellingtons by Dunlop, £1-65. Black gloves, from British Home Stores, £1-80. Glasses from a selection at Digby Howard. Hat from Burberrys, £4. Gaberdine raincoat, by Electric Fittings, £40. Tights from Biba, 30p. Black Wellingtons, by Dunlop, £1-65. Gloves from a selection at Harrods. Bag from Burberrys, £6.50.
Beige hooded mac, by Ian Batten for Stirling Cooper, £28. Cream tights, from Biba, 30p. Wellingtons by Dunlop, £1.65. Black clutch bag, in padded leather, from Lily, £17.99. Black leather gloves, from British Home Stores, £1.80. Brown felt hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Beige mac, with fly front, by Ian Batten for Stirling Cooper, £28. Cream tights, from Biba, 30p. Wellingtons by Dunlop, £1.65. Brown gloves from a selection at Harrods.
Black short-sleeved layered dress, from Van der Fransen, £15. White petticoat, from Essenses, £10. Chevron shawl, from Bombacha, £4. Black tights, by Mary Quant, 45p. Brown leather ankle boots, by Anello And Davide, £16-95. Rings model’s own.
No need to look drab because you want to keep warm this winter. Here’s how to achieve that simple, but sexy, country-girl look and be snug, as well. Wear lots and lots of layers of clothes in prints and plains and add a frilly summer petticoat to give a touch of spice. It’s a fabulous way of wearing your summer clothes, too — and so save on your budget. Add a polo neck to a printed summer skirt and top the lot with a thin, plain pinny. See? It’s easy . . . it’s warm . . . and makes your whole wardrobe go a very long way . . .
Photographed by David Anthony.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1975.
Liberty-print dress, by Taramina, £19.95. Cream baggy dress, by Coopers, £19.95. Shawl from Bombacha, £4. Knitted stockings, from Donald Davies, £3.25. Clogs from Anello And Davide, £4.95. Cream polo, by Marc O’Polo, £5. Liberty-print dress, by Taramina, £19.95. White petticoat, from Essenses, £10. Cream cardigan, by Crochetta, £22. Chevron shawl, from Bombacha, £4. Stockings by Donald Davies, £3.25. Clogs from Anello And Davide, £4.95. Scarf from Essenses, £3.
Cotton polo, by Marc O’Polo, £5. Jersey dress, £28. Pinny, £12. Both by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Black silky-knit shawl, by Jump, £5.99. Wellies by Dunlop, £2.6 Jersey dress, £2 Pinny, £12. Both by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Wellies by Dunlop, £2.60. Rings model’s own.
Cotton polo, by Marc O’Polo, £5. Blue check baggy dress, with side pockets, by Katharine Hamnett at Marshall Lester, £13.90. Blue striped quilted jacket, by Nicole Farhi at French Connection, £13.50. Wellies by Dunlop, £2.65. Scarf from Essenses, £3. Fingerless gloves, by Jean Howell, £3.75. Blue check duffle coat, by Katharine Hamnett at Marshall Lester, £16.70. Black tights, by Mary Quant, 45p. Wellies by Dunlop, 12.65. Scarf from Essenses, £3. Long black scarf, by Jump, £2.99.
Blue polo neck, by Marc O’Polo, £5. Blue floral skirt, by Van der Fransen, £7. Pink brushed cotton overdress, by Nicole Farhi at French Connection, £13. Floral wool shawl, from Bombacha, £4. Pink tights, by Mary Quant, 45p. Ankle socks, by Jean Howell, £3-50. Black polo neck, by Marc O’Polo, £5. Floral skirt, by Sujon, £24. Black brushed cotton overdress, by Nicole Farhi at French Connection, f 13-50. Floral shawl, with matching dress, not shown, by Sujon, £40. Blue socks, by Jean Howell, £3.50.
The six-jumps-ahead look (opposite) ; big Christmas talking-point for the folks and a very well-defined spell-out for the buzz (getting louder) that a lot of trendy heads will have short hair this spring. Not often this short, we guess, but when you’re a straw in the wind, you have to be visible. Now look at those eyebrows ; correction ; don’t because you can’t. Our model (Paris-based —which explains that neat little head) plucks them out every day. You don’t have to go this far— yet — but there’s no doubt whatever that brows should be thinner, paler and generally underplayed. Goodness knows what these tidings will do to Liz Taylor. Make-up ? Virtually none. Just super-clean, super-clear skin ; a little Geminesse Under Make-up moisturising tint (Apricot) which is totally transparent ; Max Factor’s Lip Gloss and a light dusting of freckles. The no-make-up look needn’t be quite this genuine; a lot of girls are achieving their version of it with foundation, gloss, blusher, powder—all of them transparent.
Top by Crowthers (although perhaps an uncredited Mr Freedom buy-in?)
Saucy scarlet chiffon see-through blouse with ruffled V-neck, Joan Ferguson £10.50, from Joan Ferguson, Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SW3. Sheer black stockings, Fenwicks 40p ; high-heeled leather peep-toe shoes, Biba £.7.90; silver and black beaded choker on a petersham band, Nostalgia £5.
Entice in clothes of clinging silk and flowing crepe de chine, fragile and provocative. Mata Hari knew the secret … try it for yourself.
Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.
Scanned from Honey, September 1974.
Shiny ivory slippery satin evening dress with fluted cap sleeves and tightly fitted bodice that flares out at the hem, from a selection of ‘originals’ at Nostalgia, £15, from Nostalgia, 29 Bedfordbury, WC2. Carved jet coiled snake bangle, Chelsea Gems £20; twisted silver and black beaded rope, Corocraft ’75p ; ruched peep-toe leather shoes, Biba £7.95. Courant Eau de Parfum Mist Mini-Spray, Helena Rubinstein 95p. French Officer’s uniform and Russian Naval Officer’s uniform are to hire from Bermans & Nathan, 40 Camden Street, NW1. Black curly Mata Hari wig, ‘Magpie’ by Carmen, £12.95, styled by Trevor at Ricci Burns.
Pale peach crepe-de-chine blouse with cafe-au-lait lace-trimmed collar and breast pocket and looped button front, Marie France of Greenrock £15, from Crocodile, 98 New Bond Street, W1 and branches. High-waisted long black crepe skirt with tightly ruched front waistband and tie back, Radley £16, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3. Black ruched nylon evening gloves, Morley 99p. Heaven Sent Perfume Spray Mist, Helena Rubinstein from 72p.
Jet black and silver bugle-beaded ‘original’ chiffon shimmy dress with handkerchief hem, £40 from a selection at Nostalgia, 29 Bedfordbury, WC2. Black leather peep-toe shoes with ruched front, Biba £7.90 ; sheer black tights, Mary Quant 40p.
Loose peach coloured crêpe-de-chine overblouse with fluted sleeves and plunging V-neck, lace trimmed front, Joan Ferguson £7.00, from Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SVV3. Scarlet crêpe hip-hugging gored mid-calf length skirt, Quorum £12.50, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3, Heath Street, NW3. Apple Blossom Perfume Mist Mini-Spray, Helena Rubinstein 72p.
Soft loose blouse hand-printed with flowers £24.50. Floaty brown trousers £24.
Jane Cattlin deserves them for making a whole clutch of wantable tops in clinging, sexy rayon jersey you wear with pants, long skirts, short skirts and under sober office suits for a straight-on-to-a-rave-up date. Simpsons of Piccadilly have taken the whole beautiful range shown above.
Photographed by Karl Stoecker.
Scanned from Over 21 magazine, August 1972.
Draped lilac top £9.75. Floaty brown trousers.
Hand-printed off-the-shoulder blouse £18.50.
Hand-printed cream and black spotted dress £46.50.
Dip into Fruit Drops for see-through colour. Miners Fruit Drops. Nail polish that sees nails in a new light. See-through, but with a trace of colour. Just like fruit juice! Fruit Drops slick on, leaving nails with a fruity wet-look. And you’ll find their keep their juiciness to the last drop. Fruit Drops come in four great shades:: Raspberry, Strawberry, Peach and Blackcurrant. All at 2/5. So dip in.
Liz Eggleston 