All Change for Autumn

19 magazine, 1970s, anello and davide, Avril Gordon, biba, Brosseau, Feathers, Fenwick, Frocks, Ginger Group, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Jean Charles Brosseau, mary quant, Michael Berkofsky, Sacha, Tony Berkley, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co.

Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black Courtelle blazer, long and lean with slightly padded shoulders, low wide lapels and plain white buttons, by Tony Berkeley, 10gns. Oxford bag-style Courtelle trousers with turn-ups, in black, rust and creamy beige, by Tony Berkeley, 6gns. Conker brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Tapestry bag, from Biba, £5 10s. Snake-print luggage also from a selection at Biba.

Autumn clothes are now beginning to filter into the shops, and we must admit that this year’s crop is better than ever. The best of last season’s shapes remain with us—long, lean, fitted coats and jackets, midi length skirts and Oxford bags with turn-ups. The new lines are more startling, and heavily influenced by the ‘Forties. Shoulders are squared off, coats have Joan Crawford swagger backs or are shaped in at the waist with a single-button fastening. All hems cover the knee, and to be seen in a mini is almost sacrilegious now. Gaucho pants and knickerbockers are the new look for legs, and blouses with soft revers and yokes are back in vogue, worn with soft collars outside. Colours are black, brown, rust and cream, or a mixture of the four in plaids and jacquards. Shoes are becoming much finer with the exception of brogues and shoes with ankle straps. Large, soft leather shoulder bags are the perfect shape to complete the picture.

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1970.

Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Courtelle swagger coat in black, rust and creamy beige, has a deep inverted pleat in the back, is fastened with plain white buttons, from Tony Berkeley, 13g ns. Brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Tapestry bag, by Biba, £5 10s. Luggage, from Biba, 6gns. to £6 10s.

Soft felt khaki-coloured hat, by Herbert Johnson, 7gns. Black wool dress embroidered at waist and cuffs, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black lace-up shoes, from Anello and Davide, 75s. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown bag, by Avril Gordon, £8. Brown felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool dress with a split skirt is trimmed with heart-shaped buttons, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 2s. Black suede belt with brown clasp, by The Wild Mustang Co., 65s. Beads, from Biba, 63s.

Brown felt hat trimmed with leather thongs, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Brown jersey knicker-bocker suit with the jacket cut like a shirt, and matching tie belt, from Frocks By Post, £6 19s.6d. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Beige felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Midi-length beige cardigan coat narrow cut with a top stitched yoke and matching trousers, from Frocks By Post, £9 19s.6d. Brogues by Sacha, 8gns.

Beige felt hat with a leather thong trim, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool long-sleeved dress is button-through at back and has a matching belt, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black leather shoes, by Anello and Davide, 75s. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown suede and patent leather shoulder bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black crêpe long-sleeved blouse, 5gns. Slim-fitting Courtelle jacket in black, rust and creamy beige with patch pockets, 71/2 gns. Black Courtelle Gaucho trousers with turn-ups, 90s. All by Tony Berkeley. Grey patent lace-up shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks.

Beige felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Creamy crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Long lean acrylic and wool jacket in grey and black, £7 15s., matching skirt, 85s. Both by Alistair Cowin for Grade One. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Bag, from Biba, £5 19s.6d. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Acrylic and wool pinafore dress in grey and black, by Alistair Cowin for Grade One, £6 10s. Black shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather shoulder bag by Avril Gordon, £8. Luggage from a selection at Biba.

Beige crochet hat, from Fenwicks, 25s. Black crêpe blouse, 5gns. Courtelle pinafore dress in black, rust and creamy beige, £6 105. Slim-fitting black Courtelle coat has wide lapels and fastens with one white button at the waist, 13gns. All by Tony Berkeley. Black T-bar leather shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Long brown chiffon scarf, 10s. Brown tortoiseshell clip, 4s.6d. Both from Fenwicks.

Brown felt hat, by J.C. Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe dress is gather-ed from a wide yoke and has a belt in suede, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £13 15s. Brown suede brogues with fringed tongue, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather bag, by Avril Gordon, 8gns. Snakeprint suitcase, from Biba, £6 10s.

Scarves from head to toe

1960s, Adrian Mann, biba, celia birtwell, edward mann, Ginger Group, headscarves, Inspirational Images, Jaeger, janice wainwright, jinty, liberty, liberty's, Liz Smith, Marlborough, mary quant, observer magazine, polly peck, quorum, Richard Allan, simon massey, Steve Hiett, steven hiett

Long chiffon scarf designed by Celia Birtwell, 2 gn., from the Vidal Sassoon Shop, 44 Sloane Street, W1; Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3. White Tricel tricot blouse, part of set, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, 13 gn., with contrast trousers and jerkin, from Bazaar, Knightsbridge, SW1.

Scarves, instead of being dismissed as last year’s fashion gimmick, are being perpetuated as this year’s most important accessory. Still the simplest way to wear a scarf is to flip a long one casually college-style around the neck. As long as it’s not literally a college scarf this somehow adds enough chic to whatever you wear, without making you look fussily overdressed. There are dozens of different ways to tie a scarf. Smart French girls are tying scarves around their waists, twisted in with chain belts or beads. Marc Bohan at Dior makes headscarves tied pirate-style look young and chic, and shows scarves tied like a man’s tie. Although large squares will still be in demand to wear on the head or folded up as cravats, the big fashion in scarves is still for long ones, preferably fringed. Men will have to accept with a good grace that they have lost their long-established monopoly of fringed silk scarves. Until now almost the only places to find them were men’s departments, antique market stalls or somebody’s attic. (Shawls are the latest craze from jumble sales.) But shopping for scarves is easier this spring, with stocks at last in every shape and size. Hair by Valerie at Cheveux, 15 Abingdon Road, London W8.

Fashion by Liz Smith.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from The Observer Magazine, March 1969.

Paisley printed chiffon square, 63s., from Liberty, Regent Street, W1. Hat by Edward Mann, 49s. 11d., in a variety of colours. Tricel jersey tunic shirt (with trousers), by Jinty, 8 gn.

Tied around the waist a filmy silk square by Richard Allen, 75s., from Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, WI. Pearl and turquoise twisted bead belts with tassel ends, by Adrien Mann, 30s. each, from Harrods; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Beige crepe shirtsleeved jumpsuit £41 10s., from Jaeger, Brompton Road, Sloane Street, Baker Street and a number of provincial branches.

Pirate-style cotton handker-chief, 17s. 6d. from Liberty. Silver brooch on shoulder, 30s., silver bracelets, £1 7s. 6d. each; all from Indiacraft, Marble Arch, W1. Tricel jersey dress by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £5 19s. 6d., from Bazaar.

Indian silk scarf, 36 in. square, £1 11s. 6d., from Indiacraft, Silver chain, 18s. 6d. from Fenwick. Cigarette holder from Tunisia. Tunic dress in Lancola jersey by Marlborough, 11 gn., with trousers, from Peter Robinson.

Extra long silk scarf looks good tied as a sash, also in black, £2 2s. 6d., from Biba, 19-22 Kensington Church Street, W8, and by post. Rayon chiffon smock dress, by Polly Peck, 13 gn.

Square scarf tied like a tie, silk crepe de chine, 7 gn. yard, 36 in. wide, from Liberty. Dacron and cotton blouse, also in white, pale blue, brown, lagoon and pink, £5, from all Young Jaeger branches. Courtelle Neospun jersey pinafore-topped trousers designed by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, £8 18s. 6d. Maltese cross on chain by Adrien Mann, 25s. Tibetan bird ring £1 10s. from Indiacraft. Sunglasses by Corocraft, 25s.

Silk stole to wear as a sash, by Richard Allen, £7 17s. 6d., from Fenwick. Simple round-necked sleeve-less jumpsuit zipping up the back, in linen-look rayon, navy, beige, thyme or caramel, £14 10s., from Jaeger, London, and all provincial shops. Red and navy slingback shoes, 79s. 11d., from Dolcis. White plastic chain belt by Adrien Mann, £1. Page-boy wig, £21 15s., from Beyond The Fringe, 59 Brook Street, London

Film Fashion

1960s, Chelsea Antiques Market, Deco Inspired, edward mann, Gay Girl, Ginger Group, Inspirational Images, john stephen, Laurence Sackman, mary quant, Morel, petticoat magazine, Rodger Bass, Roger Nelson, Seventh Avenue, Sue Hone, The Westerner, Vintage Editorials

CAMELOT

White dress from a selection at the Antique Supermarket, Kings Road London. Seventh Avenue dress with pointed sleeves, 7½ gns. Paul Stephens twisted rings, 4s.

Props by Miss Joanna Brett.

Fashion by Susan Hone.

Photographed by Laurence Sackman.

Scanned from Petticoat, January 20th 1968.

THOROUGHLY MODERN MILLIE

*Roger Nelson floral dress, 8½ gns. John Hamilton wooden beads ,10s. 6d. / Mary Quant Ginger Group green crepe dress trimmed with yellow, £7 19s. 6d.* (This dress will not be in the shops until March).

BONNIE AND CLYDE

John Stephen brown gangster hat, 45s. Spotted tie from a selection at Solid Gold, 15s. 6d. Mary Quant beret, 12s. 6d. Gay Girl yellow crepe maxi-skirt and top, 6½gns. & Gay Girl by Marion Maid pin striped trouser suit, £7 19s. 6d. Car lent by David Chester.

GONE WITH THE WIND

Edward Mann straw hat, 45s. 11d. Raymond velvet cape, 17gns. Rodger Bass “Long Snow Queen” dress, 8gns. Youngs Dress Hire white dress and matching hat, 12gns to hire. Andrew Stewart pink fringed shawl.

BLUE

Cowboy hat, £7 17s. 6d., shirts, 79s. 6d., squaw set, 19gns., suede jerkin, 5gns., and trousers at 19gns. from Westerner, 469 Oxford Street. Morel of London riding chaps £10 5s., jerkin 8½gns. Photographed at Lester School of Equitation, Roehampton.

The Prettiest Prints

1970s, baccarat, caroline charles, Colin Glascoe, Foale and Tuffin, Ginger Group, Harrods, Inspirational Images, Jeany, Kati at Laura Phillips, Liza Spain, mary quant, mr fish, Peter Saunders Catalogue, Vintage Editorials, Woman's Journal

Two of summer’s new romantics, long, loose and floating in Sanghaneri Jaipur voile. Both by Colin Glascoe.

Bunches of summer flowers; delicate patterns and prints; and myriad beautiful shades are the ingredients. Mixed to perfection, they make up this – the prettiest mélange of summer dresses.

Photographed by Jeany.

Hair styles by Susi at Violet Adair.

Scanned from Woman’s Journal, July 1971.

Left: Scoop neck dress of Liberty printed cotton Right: Skirt and long sleeved blouse in Liberty printed cotton, worn with long reversible turncoat. All from Foale and Tuffin.

:eft: Exclusive Rajistani Jaipur hand printed dress on cotton voile from the Peter Saunders Catalogue. Right: Flowered cotton dress by Kati at Laura Phillips.

Long midi skirt and bolero of smoothest cotton velvet provide the perfect setting of this exquisite hand embroidered tapestry designed exclusively for Woman’s Journal. Available from the Art and Needlework Department at Harrods. Full sleeved organza blouse with deep buttoned cuffs by Mr Fish.

Sharply tailored suiy in grey and white Jacquard. The blouse, soft and full, with gathered sleeves and neckline, pours from beneath the jacket into delicate ruffles. By Baccarat.

Left: Spotted pinafore dress of silk over soft, white blouse with full sleeves, by Caroline Charles. Right: Close-fitting midi in sheer cotton voile by Mary Quant Ginger Group.

What pinafores did next

1970s, anello and davide, Angela at London Town, duc, Gina Fratini, Ginger Group, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, kensington market, kurt geiger, Marielle, mary quant, miss selfridge, Moya Bowler, Titfers, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

Cotton print pinafore over a sweet flowered dress. Deep ruffles on shoulders and a big beautiful bonnet to match. By Titfers at Miss Selfridge. Red button shoes at Anello & Davide.

Long dresses and skirts in crepe and cotton prints – related to others just as small, fresh, sharp or soft, on pinafore smocks and aprons. These are not so much to keep you clean, more to make you look prettier; and you can be dairy maids, kitchen maids, Kate Greenaway girls all through summer.

And so began the kickback against all things clean, crisp and space age…

Photographed by Duc.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1971.

Fine floppy fluted crepe de chine dress by Marielle. Liberty lawn pinafore by Angela at London Town. Brown boots by Moya Bowler for Edouard Jerrold at Kurt Geiger.

Dairy cream cotton smock dress. Leg o’mutton sleeves, buttons up the back, print of wild pale roses and primrose ribbons. Gauzy white pinafore, lace and rose pink ribbons. Both by Gina Fratini. Shoes at Anello & Davide. Lacy pink silk bonnet at Sharon’s Shoppe, Kensington Market.

Cotton and rayon wrap, two sizes of polka dot, white on cherry red patches. By Mary Quant Ginger Group. Cherry and red stripe cotton apron by In Pressler. Natural straw hat at Herbert Johnson.

Dance of the Seven Voiles

1970s, Ginger Group, ingrid boulting, Inspirational Images, liberty, liberty's, mary quant, Sarah Moon, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

Corn coloured Liberty voile with poppy red and brown flowers ruched with daisies of white lace across the bodice, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group.

Spring is a story of air spun with flowers – voile light as veils – with veil upon voile. Lyrical layers of patterns together. Bewitching play of light and limb – a gentle illusion to see through – or not – the legs veiled in trousers quite sheer, skirts long and then suddenly short at one side, a flurry of leg through the frills and the flowers. Mary Quant played Pied Piper to the young in the sixties, now she designs to the heart of the new mood with her prettiest collection in years.

Photographed by Sarah Moon.

Modelled by Ingrid Boulting.

Scanned from Vogue, March 1970.

Shepherdess dress of flowered cotton with an overshirt of voile laced to a calico cummerbund. Children’s costumes by Philomen, Paris.

Cornflower blue flowers, a little dress with a ruffled shawl wrapped as a skirt.

Liberty’s voile of undecided stripes, red and soft beige in a simple smock over trousers.

Honey voile flowered with brown and red pansies, ruched with white lace over the bodice.

Black voile, scattered with flowers and red braid with lovely sheer trousers.

Autumn’s Prettiest Silhouettes

19 magazine, 1970s, Colin Glascoe, frederick starke, Gina Fratini, Ginger Group, Inspirational Images, liberty, liberty's, mary quant, polly peck, Vintage Adverts, wallis

Left to right: Berkertex, Mary Quant for Ginger Group, Clothes at Colin Glascoe, Gina Fratini, Frederick Starke, Polly Peck.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1970.

All clothes by Wallis.

Keep it Dark

1970s, Alan Rodin, anello and davide, Buckle Under, Dranella, Elliott, Ginger Group, liberty, Marielle, mary quant, Miss T, Mrs Cresswell, petticoat magazine, ravel, Sacha, Sacha, Steve Hiett, Sujon, Uncategorized, wallis

Flower print skirt and top by Sujon. Crochet shawl by Mrs Cresswell. Shoes by Sacha.

Dusky dark dresses for the days when you’d rather take things cooler, in feminine earthy patterns galore, with more than their fair share of low key price tags…

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, February 1971.

Both outfits by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group. Inset below right, both dresses by Dranella.

Midi dress by Marielle. Rosie Nice satin shawl.

Liberty print tiered dress by Miss T. Shawl by Mrs Cresswell. Cream boots by Ravel.

Multiprint dress, left, by Alan Rodin. Belt from Elliott. Sacha boots. Button front Liberty print dress, right, by Miss T. Suede beaded shawl by Elliott. Choker by Buckle Under.

Long Liberty print dress by Wallis. Bag and choker by Elliotts. Shoes by Anello & Davide.

Inspirational Editorials: Two-Way Switch

1960s, annacat, british boutique movement, Browns, Carrot On Wheels, charles jourdan, christian dior, David Anthony, Eric Hart, Fenwick, gerald mccann, Ginger Group, Inspirational Images, kurt geiger, Laura Jamieson, mary quant, McCaul, Queen magazine, ravel, Russell & Bromley, Vintage Editorials

Square necked sideless dress by Ginger Group. Gold link belt by Paris House. Black patent shoes by Kurt Geiger. Satin beret by Rudolf.

Try a touch of seasonal sorcery – swop clothes with yourself instead of with your sister or friend. Mix tweed with satin, sweaters with fur; play addition and subtraction with your wardrobe to achieve subtle solutions for every climate, every occasion and every mood.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Queen, December 1967

Square necked sideless dress by Ginger Group. White blouse by Eric Hart. Tortoiseshell and gilt link belt by Dior. Brown shoes by Kurt Geiger. Brown knitted beret at Fenwick.

Oxford bags by Gerald McCann in Donegal tweed with detatchable black satin turn-ups. Black satin shirt by Eric Hart. Black patent belt by Mary Quant. Black patent shoes by Kurt Geiger.

Oxford bags by Gerald McCann in Donegal tweed with detatchable black satin turn-ups. Brown and tweed long belted sweater from Browns. Antique Baltic amber beads from Sac Freres. Knitted brown beret at Fenwick. Beige and black ankle boots by Ravel.

Short white fluffy kid coat by Calman Links, with white fox collar and white satin belt. Diamante drop earrings by Dior. Square diamante handbag by Susan Handbags. White grosgrain strap shoes by Russell and Bromley.

Short white fluffy kid coat by Calman Links, with white fox collar. Round-necked chocolate sweater by Laura Jamieson, with long sleeves, buttons down back, and matching ribbed skirt. Tortoiseshell and gilt belt by Dior. Stretch brown leather boots by Kurt Geiger.

Black velvet trouser suit by Carrot on Wheels. Cream silk shirt by Annacat. Square snakeskin handbag by Russell and Bromley. Black patent shoes by Kurt Geiger. Black velvet hair bow by Dior.

Black velvet trouser suit by Carrot on Wheels. Beige polo necked sweater by McCaul. Black belt with perspex buckle by Dior. Leather shoes by Charles Jourdan.

Inspirational Images: Swinging palms

1970s, british boutique movement, Ginger Group, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, Just Jaeckin, mary quant

Harem trousers and top by Mary Quant Ginger Group

Photographed by Just Jaeckin. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, April 1971

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