Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black Courtelle blazer, long and lean with slightly padded shoulders, low wide lapels and plain white buttons, by Tony Berkeley, 10gns. Oxford bag-style Courtelle trousers with turn-ups, in black, rust and creamy beige, by Tony Berkeley, 6gns. Conker brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Tapestry bag, from Biba, £5 10s. Snake-print luggage also from a selection at Biba.
Autumn clothes are now beginning to filter into the shops, and we must admit that this year’s crop is better than ever. The best of last season’s shapes remain with us—long, lean, fitted coats and jackets, midi length skirts and Oxford bags with turn-ups. The new lines are more startling, and heavily influenced by the ‘Forties. Shoulders are squared off, coats have Joan Crawford swagger backs or are shaped in at the waist with a single-button fastening. All hems cover the knee, and to be seen in a mini is almost sacrilegious now. Gaucho pants and knickerbockers are the new look for legs, and blouses with soft revers and yokes are back in vogue, worn with soft collars outside. Colours are black, brown, rust and cream, or a mixture of the four in plaids and jacquards. Shoes are becoming much finer with the exception of brogues and shoes with ankle straps. Large, soft leather shoulder bags are the perfect shape to complete the picture.
Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1970.
Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Courtelle swagger coat in black, rust and creamy beige, has a deep inverted pleat in the back, is fastened with plain white buttons, from Tony Berkeley, 13g ns. Brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Tapestry bag, by Biba, £5 10s. Luggage, from Biba, 6gns. to £6 10s.
Soft felt khaki-coloured hat, by Herbert Johnson, 7gns. Black wool dress embroidered at waist and cuffs, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black lace-up shoes, from Anello and Davide, 75s. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown bag, by Avril Gordon, £8. Brown felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool dress with a split skirt is trimmed with heart-shaped buttons, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 2s. Black suede belt with brown clasp, by The Wild Mustang Co., 65s. Beads, from Biba, 63s.
Brown felt hat trimmed with leather thongs, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Brown jersey knicker-bocker suit with the jacket cut like a shirt, and matching tie belt, from Frocks By Post, £6 19s.6d. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Beige felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Midi-length beige cardigan coat narrow cut with a top stitched yoke and matching trousers, from Frocks By Post, £9 19s.6d. Brogues by Sacha, 8gns.
Beige felt hat with a leather thong trim, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool long-sleeved dress is button-through at back and has a matching belt, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black leather shoes, by Anello and Davide, 75s. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown suede and patent leather shoulder bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black crêpe long-sleeved blouse, 5gns. Slim-fitting Courtelle jacket in black, rust and creamy beige with patch pockets, 71/2 gns. Black Courtelle Gaucho trousers with turn-ups, 90s. All by Tony Berkeley. Grey patent lace-up shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks.
Beige felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Creamy crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Long lean acrylic and wool jacket in grey and black, £7 15s., matching skirt, 85s. Both by Alistair Cowin for Grade One. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Bag, from Biba, £5 19s.6d. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Acrylic and wool pinafore dress in grey and black, by Alistair Cowin for Grade One, £6 10s. Black shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather shoulder bag by Avril Gordon, £8. Luggage from a selection at Biba.
Beige crochet hat, from Fenwicks, 25s. Black crêpe blouse, 5gns. Courtelle pinafore dress in black, rust and creamy beige, £6 105. Slim-fitting black Courtelle coat has wide lapels and fastens with one white button at the waist, 13gns. All by Tony Berkeley. Black T-bar leather shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Long brown chiffon scarf, 10s. Brown tortoiseshell clip, 4s.6d. Both from Fenwicks.
Brown felt hat, by J.C. Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe dress is gather-ed from a wide yoke and has a belt in suede, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £13 15s. Brown suede brogues with fringed tongue, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather bag, by Avril Gordon, 8gns. Snakeprint suitcase, from Biba, £6 10s.
Halter-necked backless midi dress. brown with red and white splodges. has a peplum waist. by Tony Berkeley. 9,gns. Grey tights by Biba. 10s 11d Metallic silver-pink T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. E4 19s.11d. Photographed at the Boulestin Restaurant. 25 Southampton Street. Covent Garden. London. W C 2 (01-836 7061)
Every girl, if only once in her life, gets the opportunity to eat out at one of London’s smart restaurants. so when the time comes you may as well make the most of it. The main thing is not to feel intimidated by your surroundings. but to be very cool and nonchalant. as if you do it all the time. (No slumping down in your seat or staring around the room with your mouth open.) If you just don’t understand the menu. ask your escort or the waiter. don’t just point to something and hope for the best. Make sure your hair is clean and shiny. and please don’t have it set and lacquered (very uncool). Wear some-thing soft and romantic in crêpe or voile, that moves well when you walk. or a halter-neck dress with a low back to make the most of the remains of your summer tan. Make sure your dress length isn’t mini (it might be the only one in the room. and then they’ll all know you’re from out of town). Don’t spoil the effect of your midi with the wrong accessories—wear a pair of new Granny shoes with the higher heel and bar strap for added authentic ‘Forties’ glamour.
Ignoring the title (which I have, as always, left for posterity) this editorial is pretty damn perfect. On the cusp of what we more clearly think of as ‘Seventies’, just before platforms and the extremes of Glam, but turning its back very determinedly on the ‘Swinging Sixties’ and looking further back with nostalgic eyes. It’s also a delicious, possibly unique, snapshot of the most fashionable restaurants in London at the time.
Model is Charlotte Martin.
Fashion by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by John Bishop.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, November 1970.
Cream satin hat from a selection at Feathers. Purple and cream chiffon dress. by Tony Berkeley. 15gns Purple tights. by Mary Quant. 15s Ankle-lacing shoes. by Anello and Davide. 75s. Photographed at Julies Restaurant. 135 Portland Road. London. W.11. (01-229 8331)
Brown panne velvet short-sleeved midi dress has a sweetheart neckline decorated with tiny bunches of flowers by Ossie Clark. for Radley. £14 10s. Photographed at Mr. Chows Montpelier Restaurant. 13 Montpelier Street. London. SW7 (01-589 0032)
Backless halter-necked brown and cream chiffon dress, by Tony Berkeley, £13 Aubergine tights. by Mary Quant, 15s. Metallic silver-pink T-bar shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s. 11d. Photographed at Prunier’s Restaurant, 72 St. James’ Street, London, S.W.1 (01-493 1373)
Multi-coloured triangle dress. by Ossie Clark for Radley, 12 19s 6d. Neutral tights. by Biba. 6s 11d. Ankle-lacing red shoes. by Anello and Davide. 75s. Photographed at Burkes Club, 10 Clifford Street. London, W.1. (01-734 1912) All the jewellery on these pages belongs to our model.
Purple crepe shirt-style calf-length dress. by Ossie Clark for Radley. £15 10s. Purple tights. by Biba. 10s 11d Black T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. £4 19s 11d. Photographed at Chez Solange, 35 Cranbourn Street. London. W C 2. (01-836 0542)
Long purple crêpe dress with multi-coloured embroidery,-loosely tied at neck and sleeves, by Ann Reeves, 8gns. Neutral-coloured tights. by Biba. 6s. 11d Ankle-lacing purple shoes, by Anello and Davide, 75s. Photographed at the Garden Restaurant, 9 Henrietta Street, London. WC2 (01-240 0088)
Golden panne velvet top. teamed with a Bordeaux and gold skirt. decorated with butterflies. by Angela at London Town. 11gns Aubergine tights. by Mary Quant, 15s. Black T-bar shoes. by Mary Quant. £4 19s 11d. Photographed at Provans Restaurant. 306 Fulham Road. London. S W.10. (01-352 7343)
Remember those Joan Crawford, Bette Davis, Hollywood weepies where men were heroes and women were fluttery, feminine creatures who stayed at home, controlling the tremble in their lower lips when the boys went off to war? Well, the best of the Joan Crawford era has finally hit town, and few designers have caught on to the ‘Forties look as successfully as Sheridan Barnett of Tony Berkeley. A talented twenty-three-year-old, he is one of the newest designers to emerge in London. He obviously likes women to be women as his clothes are beautifully cut and styled and are entirely feminine. He has a keen eye for line and simple detail which he carries through in his choice of fabric. All the dresses photographed (available from the Way In at Harrods) are in Tricel and show how important shape has become again. The clothes are seductive with the emphasis on simplicity and style …
Model is Ingrid Boulting.
Photographed by David Tack.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1970.
Black patent shoes by Paradise. Artificial cherries from John Lewis.
Long creamy cotton dress by Foale and Tuffin. Blue cotton paisley blouse and skirt by Foale and Tuffin. Embroidered woollen belt around head by Rosie Nice in Kensington Market.
Sunny Spain conjured up visions of hot summer days in picturesque surroundings, ideal settings for 19’s summer fashions. And we had a fantastic oppotunity when 4S Travel arranged a trip to Malaga and Torremolinos. We flew BUA Super Jet to stay at the Hotel Al Andalus, within easy reach of the mountains overlooking the Costa del Sol. Here we discovered quaint villages, sun-drenched and white-washed, their customs and dress crystallised in the past. No cars to be seen, only mules and donkeys. Our clothes echoed the feel of these places – colours stark black and white, brightened with touches of gayer hues, clean hot printed cottons, soft peasant blouses, sandals, light fishnet shawls, casual sun hats. The garments are easy to take care of, and enhance a tan – midi skirts that button to above the knee and give alluring glimpses of brown thigh, and large brightly printed squares of fabric which can be used as shawls, or skirts tied at the side.
Making me yearn for a proper holiday. The closest I’ll get is looking at this editorial whilst sitting on the balcony, trying to avoid all humans for the time being. I hope it brightens your day as well…
Blonde model is Willy van Rooy.
Photographed by John Bishop.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1970.
Black velour towelling dress by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Shawl by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers. Green and red snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland from Jolly Boy in Kensington Market. Belt bought locally.
Black and white cototn printed skirt and top by Tony Berkeley. Shawl from J. C. Brosseau. Shoes by Sacha.
White cotton skirt, blouse and bolero all by Annie for Rosie Nice in Kensington Market. Bright red and green dress by Foale and Tuffin. Black fishnet shawls by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers.
White towelling hat by Bermona. Dress by Sujon. Shoes from Ravel.
Dress by Tony Berkeley. White patent shoes by Sacha.
Dusty pink skirt and blouse by Ian Batten. Brown felt hat by J. C. Brosseau from Feathers.
Both outfits by Tony Berkeley. Both pairs of shoes by Ravel.
Dress by Foale and Tuffin. Snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland at Jolly Boy. Belt bought locally.
White midi skirt by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Red and white silk rayon blouse by Annie for Rosie Nice. Mock snakeskin shoes by Dolcis.
Tawny shades of hazel and honey: Brown cloche hat, veiling, long brown and white cotton dress all from Biba. Shell ring from Hope and Eleanor. / Long brown and white cotton voile dress from Biba. Large brown crochet shawl by Catherine Buckley. Heart shaped ring from Hope and Eleanor.
Spring has taken on a romantic air – with light dresses, billowing skirts and full sleeves. The fabric for day is cotton, especially voile. For evening, crepe is a great favourite. The lines are seductive – wear low v-necks, hats with lots of veiling and an antique brooch. Find an old shawl or crochet your own. If you’ve time to hunt you needn’t spend much money.
Some of my favourite designers, my favourite looks, one of my favourite photographers and two of my favourite models: Charlotte Martin and Mouche. Perfection.
Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1970.
Old Fashioned Prints in Pink and White: All clothes from Biba. Ivory brooch from The Purple Shop.
Caviar and Champagne dresses: Hats from J. C. Brosseau from Feathers. Veiling from Biba. Dresses by Tony Berkeley. Beige shoes found by our model in a junk shop.
Melange of navy, white and pink: Crochet hat from J. C. Brosseau. Short navy crepe dress from Tony Berkeley. Shoes from Ravel. Brooch and ring from The Purple Shop.
Art deco revived: Silvery lace hat from Feathers. Dress and coat by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Black patent shoes from Ravel. / Beige lace pull on hat from Biba. Dress by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Red leather shoes by Anello and Davide. Beads from Hope and Eleanor. Brooch from The Purple Shop.
Interludes of brown and white crepe: Hat from Biba. Dress by Tony Berkeley. / Hat from Feathers. Dress by Tony Berkeley. Both shoes by Ravel.
Burgundy wool suit from Bus Stop. Leather gloves from Biba. Leather and suede boots by Anello and Davide. / Burgundy wool trousersuit and hat from Biba. Boots by Anello and Davide.
Romantic white afternoon dresses: Dresses by Louis Caring. Hats from Biba and J. C Brosseau. Scarf from Emmerton and Lambert.
Nuances of delicate navy and white: Hat by J. C. Brosseau. Dress by Tony Berkeley.
Calf length New York skyline-printed crepe dress with deep neckline, narrow fitting sleeves and wide sash tied at the back. The same dress with wide bell shaped over sleeves. Both from Mr Freedom. Rings from Biba.
The look for Christmas is definitely one of bright colours and generally good cheer. Fabrics are crepes, satins and velvets in stained glass hues of rich reds, blues, greens, yellows and purples…
Photographed by Stephen Bobroff.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, December 1969.
Long crepe kaftan style dress by Mr Freedom. Red chiffon scarf by Fenwicks. Yellow and black crepe trouser suit by Mr Freedom. Red leather boots from Sacha. Black crochet cap by Ritva at Feathers.
Ankle length satin dress over printed in mauve with floppy bell shaped sleeves and long matching scarf by Pourelle. Purple crepe calf length dress with narrow fitting sleeves, lace up neckline and wide cape style collar by Ossie Clark for Quorum. Boots by Sacha.
Purple narrow fitting t-shirt. Ankle length crushed velvet skirt in pink with purple velvet waistband. Both by Mr Freedom. Purple leather boots by Anello & Davide. Cardigan style dress in dark blue velvet splashed with yellow and red by Gordon King. Bright red crepe ankle length skirt by Ossie Clark for Quorum.
Pale pink acetate jersey ankle length skirt and v-shaped bra top with narrow straps crossing over at back by Wallis. Black crochet cap by Ritva at Feathers. Pale green crepe ankle length skirt with matching front lacing bra top by Tony Berkeley.
Long tapestry coat by Janice Wainwright at Simon Massey. Bright green narrow t-shirt by Mr Freedom. Pale pink damask narrow-fitting long coat by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Silk scarves from Biba.
Ankle length zip fronted cafe crepe dress has softly gathered deep yoke by Tony Berkeley. Red, blue and yellow scarf by Sujon. Ankle length soft pink crepe dress by Tony Berkeley. Long printed Indian scarf from Feathers.
Bolero top and mid-calf skirt by Simon Jeffrey. Ankle length dress in pure Liberty wool and matching bolero by Gladrags. Red mid calf boots by Anello and Davide.
L-R: Gauchos and battle jacket by Tony Berkley, boots at Elliott; Midi coat and matching pants by Alan Rodin, belt by The Wild Mustang Manfacturing Co, boots to order at the Chelsea Cobbler; Skirt and midi coat by Tony Berkley, blouse by Alan Rodin, boots by Anello & Davide.
Time to dig out the gauchos, zig zag knits and lace up boots again. Not that I ever need any encouragement, mind…
Photographed by Charlotte March. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Nova, September 1970.
All three printed dresses in dicel crepe by Janice Wainwright at Simon Massey
Liz Eggleston 