Vogue

Conjunctions of Beauty

1970s, barbara daly, belinda bellville, christa peters, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Kutchinsky, Make-up, Marcel Fenez, marie helvin, Nettie Vogues, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yardley
White paper taffeta wedding dress, frilled, ruffled, goffered, tucked. To order. White hat with ostrich and snowy veiling. Both, Bellville Sassoon. Marquise and diamond earclip, £12,580, David Morris. Two strings of pearls, £935, £1,120, Tecla. Pure hypo-allergenic make-up by Almay: Sugar Plum Colour Moist Pearl Lipstick, Fresh Parsley Superlight Eye Shadow, Fir Green Creamy Cake Eyeliner, and Night Green Mascara. Soft Peach Near Nude Foundation, Hush Peach Blusher and Translucent Powder.

To look really beautiful for your own satisfaction, and other peoples’, is one of the pleasures of living—health, dress, make-up, joie de vivre in happy conjunction with each other. Here, the most beautiful of everything, together in beauty.

Model is Marie Helvin.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Christa Peters.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1971.

Edwardian blue taffeta dress, right, sashed belled sleeves, a hundred ruffles. To order, Bellville Sassoon. Gold and diamond ear-rings, £790, Kutchinsky. Ring, great pearl in diamonds, Andrew Grima, £1,500. Make-up by Yardley: Ace of Hearts Moisture Creme Lipstick. Supertint Foundation Bloom, with Mini Blusher Rose Blush. Eyes: Pink Glow, Blue Streak and Jade Delight from two palettes of Cats-Eyes, made to come alive under the ultra-violet lights in discotheques. Eyebrows brushed with Slate Soul Set Powder Eye Shadow, lashes with Charcoal Mascarade mascara.
Burgundy crepe de chine dress, opposite, deeply V-necked, gathered under the bosom and sashed with a shaped belt. Very full sleeves drawn up along the seam and tied with a bow at the elbow. By Marcel Fenez, £30. Diamond star earrings, £2,200, at Cartier. Diamond crescent, £500, and diamond and pearl crescent, £360, at Collingwood. Make-up by Barbara Daly, with Gala’s Beige Barely There Liquid oundation, Sheer Blush Sheer Finish on cheeks, and Plain Chocolate Locked-In Lipstick. Eyes: Heather Liqui Tint, Black Liqui Lash mascara, Black Eyebrow Pencil. Nails: Extra Red Little Gem Nail Colour
Diamond constellation of stars, with a new moon of diamonds, set on a sky of blue plum moire taffeta, the huge petal ruffle of a long evening dress, rising in front to hide the camisole top, falling at the back. By Nettie Vogues, £55. Set of five Victorian stars, £3,250, moon, £525, at Garrard. Hair, here and on previous pages, by Leonard.

Isadora!

1960s, Clovis Ruffin, giorgio sant'angelo, Henri Bendel, Holly Harp, Inspirational Images, Isadora Duncan, Sibley Coffee, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Jeanette Vondersaar, moving as the crests of the waves, all in a mist of champagne chiffon—the tunic, crystal-pleated, the ankle-length skirt, a simple, sheer, one layer veiling. $100. By Sibley-Coffee, 331 East 58th Street. . . . The Isadora-ish gold cord sandals at Henri Bendel, 10 West 57th Street.

Isadora Duncan—what a wonderful thing she did for all of us: The way she swept into the world of theatre, of dance, of the world’s eye, bringing with her her great ware of fresh., vital, natural thinking—of movement, of beauty, and of dressing. lsadora really changed a lot of things. Now the movie “The Loves of Isadora” is re-inspiring us all allover again. And it’s so right for right now. Here, some Isadora-inspired clothes, worn and choreographed, right, by a beautiful, young, spirited Jeanette Vondersaar of the Harkness Youth Dancers….

The spirit of Isadora Duncan . . . her wonderful rhythm and movement translated into fabric … what wonderful clothes for as to own right now.

Coiffures by Mr. Chin of Charles of the Ritz

Photographed at The Harkness House of Ballet Arts.

Photographed by Jack Robinson.

Scanned from US Vogue, August 1969.

Jeanette, exuberant, joyful—moving with the freedom of the sea, in a tunic of azure-blue matte jersey, the sleeves loose, flying—only a gold belt clasping it to the body. Tunic, $45. From Holly’s Harp, 8605 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, California. Belt by Christian Dior for Abbe Creations. . . .

Isadora would have done it this way—the strong extravagant gesture—of wrapping a beautiful silk shawl, printed in the colours of autumn, hemmed deep in bronze fringe. $75. Holly’s Harp, 8605 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, California. . . .

Glorious. A flow of royal purple Orlon jersey . : . all line and the movement Jeanette gives it . . . the extra, extra long scarf of scarlet jersey. Both designed by Clovis Ruffin. $75. At The Stockyard, 49 Grove Street. . .

The essence of Isadora Duncan’s dressing—Oh! has Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo caught it. And here, Jeanette Vondersaar expresses it, moving as the willow in the wind, the flame of the fire. . . . Black matte jersey flowing to the floor, clasped at the wrists—at the hips with two belts—the head wrapped in black jersey too. $250. . . .

Black suede whipping with flames of fringe, with bold paste diamonds ringing the V neckline. $250. . . . All by Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo. At the Safari Room of Bonwit Teller. . . .

Willow-grey jersey, a tunic twisted around the body, held at the waist with a swath of brilliant pink—the head and arms wrapped again in a long, long scarf of grey. $150. All by Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo. At the Safari Room of Bonwit Teller. . . .

Jeanette Vondersaar, moving as the crests of the waves, all in a mist of champagne chiffon—the tunic, crystal-pleated, the ankle-length skirt, a simple, sheer, one layer veiling. $100. By Sibley-Coffee, 331 East 58th Street. . . . The Isadora-ish gold cord sandals at Henri Bendel, 10 West 57th Street.

Jeanette Vondersaar, moving as the crests of the waves, all in a mist of champagne chiffon—the tunic, crystal-pleated, the ankle-length skirt, a simple, sheer, one layer veiling. $100. By Sibley-Coffee, 331 East 58th Street. . . . The Isadora-ish gold cord sandals at Henri Bendel, 10 West 57th Street.

Jeanette, exuberant, joyful—moving with the freedom of the sea, in a tunic of azure-blue matte jersey, the sleeves loose, flying—only a gold belt clasping it to the body. Tunic, $45. From Holly’s Harp, 8605 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, California. Belt by Christian Dior for Abbe Creations. . . .

Jeanette, exuberant, joyful—moving with the freedom of the sea, in a tunic of azure-blue matte jersey, the sleeves loose, flying—only a gold belt clasping it to the body. Tunic, $45. From Holly’s Harp, 8605 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, California. Belt by Christian Dior for Abbe Creations. . . .

Varnish in a summer rainbow

1970s, beauty, biba, chelsea cobbler, Inspirational Images, Lester Bookbinder, mary quant, platforms, Rayne, Russell & Bromley, Samm, shoes, Vogue
Strawberry leather centurion straps on cork, £8.95, at The Chelsea Cobbler. Mint green suede knotted across cork, £8.95, by Giusti, at Russell & Bromley, main branches. Toe paints : big toe, Biba Matisse Green. Second, Quant Lime Lolly. Third, Quant N/C 73. Fourth, Biba Royal. Little toe, Wolz Italiana 155 Laguna.

Summer’s sandals have lots of straps and knots and plaits and weaving, they are leather on huge slices of cork, in colours of caramel ice and salads. Toenails are as fresh and bright. Paint yourself a summer foot.

Photographed by Lester Bookbinder.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1972.

Caramel woven and plaited leather on small leather heel, £20, at Rayne, Bond St, Regent St. Caramel cream woven leather on cork, £8.95, at Samm, 205 Kensington High Street. Toe saints . Longlex Pistachio. Pedicures by Elizabeth Arden

Taking it on the run

1970s, Architecture, Brutalism, Converse, elisabeth novick, Inspirational Images, Janice Peskett, Jim O'Connor, mr freedom, Pringle, South Bank, Tommy Roberts, Vogue

Taking it all away from complications, planned decorations, many of the clothes you know, into a new world of white — where the action is. Clean-limbed clothes, marvellously young and free. Like this worksuit, above, red buttoned, red stitched white canvas jumping ahead into the sportslight. Jim O’Connor at Mr Freedom, £9.90. Pink suede cap, blue spotted visor. Janice Peskett at Mr Freedom, about £3.90. White cashmere sweater, by Pringle, £11, at Hills’ Cashmere House. Running shoes, Converse All Star sneakers, red flash and white, £4.99½, at Jack Hobbs, 56 Fleet St, E.C.4. Take it from here. Get clean away.

I do love a bit of South Bank Brutalism with my boutique clothing!

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick.

Scanned from Vogue, April 15th 1971.

let your hair flame curly like this

1970s, barbara daly, barry lategan, grace coddington, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Screaming Mimi, Vogue

Ablaze with the colour of Leonard’s exclusive vegetable henna, imported from Persia, cold-wave permed with Wella Structurelle and set to frame the face. Palest skin smoothed by Barbara Daly with Angel Face Cameo All-in-One Make-Up, dusted with Translucent Light Fashion Compact, blushed with Soft Rose Blush & Gloss. Cutex Rosy Blinkers colours the eyes with Angel Face Sable Automatic Mascara. Lips shot with Cutex Wineberry Lipstick to match the iridescent Blueberry Schemer nails.

Silver flecked red blouse by Screaming Mimi, scarf by Woolworths.

Hair coloured by Daniel, permed by Sandra, styled by Celine, all at Leonard.

Model is Grace Coddington.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.

Ossie invents summer… Patti wears it.

1960s, celia birtwell, david bailey, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Pattie Boyd, pre-raphaelite, quorum, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Yellow vibrations, sun crepe printed with black and green, cut out at shoulders, frilled like a waterfall down tight sleeves; 15 gns. All clothes by Ossie Clark at Quorum, 113 King’s Rd.

Look at summer through new eyes. Ossie Clark sees you in shepherdess smocks of voile, in long crepe dresses, reed-thin red or printed by Celia Birtwell. Pattie Boyd looks at it her way. All at Quorum.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1969.

I think this editorial might be one of the first I ever scanned, back in even my pre-blog days. I may have posted it on MySpace (don’t judge me, I feel ancient enough as it is). I’ve been meaning to properly rescan for years, but finally the time seemed right. It is the perfect combination of designer, model, photographer and a stunning use of Pre-Raphaelite imagery.

Cloud white voile, left, with apple green and peach, a shepherdess shirt, about £8 14s. 6d, matching skirt, about £10 8s. 6d to order.

Gentle beige smock, below, with crepe yoke, half sleeves above long voile cuffed sleeves; body beige, too, with olive and orange; 142 gns.

Flame red crepe dress, below, wrapped round and tied behind, with dragon fin sleeves, long and slender, a potent mixture of enchantment; 12 gns. Scarf by Celia Birtwell. High collar, £3 5s, from selection at London Docks, Munro Terrace.

Who knows her face better than a model?

1970s, beauty, celia birtwell, Hair and make-up, Make-up, maudie james, ossie clark, patrick hunt, Patrick Hunt, quorum, Vogue

And who better than Maudie James, demonstrating here, exactly how she shapes and colours her face:


1 Starting with shining clean skin (thanks to Pond’s Cold Cream), she dabs on Mary Quant’s Skin Drink and blends it in.


2 Max Factor’s Nouveau Beige Pan Stick goes on with a small damp sponge giving a smooth ‘finish, covering tiny blemishes.

3 Several coats of Boots No 7 Black Block Mascara intensifies but does not cake upper and lower lashes.

4 Blackened lashes are curved to sweep up and out with eyelash curlers (45p from Boots).

5 Each eyelash is separated to look natural.

6 Eyelids coloured with Caran d’Ache purple pencils (Nos 110 and 120) blended up to the brows.

7 Short feathery lines drawn with Caran d’Ache pencil (No 80) outline the cheekbones.

8 And are then blended in towards the nose to make a soft rose-pink blush.

9 Caran d’Ache pencil (No 80) outlines then fills the lips with colour.

10 Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream glossed over lips with a brush—for protection and shine.

11 Biba’s Mascara Brush neatens the eyebrows.

12 The look: face dusted with Boots No 7 Nearly Natural compact Powder; hair: shining with Wella’s Shampoo and Lemon Creme Rinse.

Photographed by Patrick Hunt.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.

Dress: brilliant silk chiffon by Ossie Clark for Quorum, print by Celia Birtwell, £45, from new Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, S.W.3; Just Looking, Knightsbridge, S.W.1; Hedgehog, 135 Fulham Road, S.W.7.

Made to measure by Edward Sexton for Esther De Deo

1970s, Edward Sexton, Esther DeDeo, menswear, Tommy Nutter, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
Made to measure by Edward Sexton for Esther De Deo at Nutters (Tommy Nutter). In oyster gabardine.
Shirt and stock, to measure, by H. W. Brettell.
Hair by Ann at Stafford & Frieda.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1977.

What’s black and white and summer all over?

1970s, Adrian Mann, bus stop, christopher mcdonnell, Conspiracy, George Malyard, Hans Metzen, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Leicester Shoes, Lizzie Carr, Malyard, marrian mcdonnell, Nigel Lofthouse, Peter Knapp, polly peck, stirling cooper, Sujon, terry de havilland, Titfers, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Left: Sizeable spot suit. Crossed small spots flared into bigger spots, bodice attached briefly to big spot baggy trousers. By Sybil Zelker at Polly Peck, £12.85, at Harrods; Edward Bates, Chatham. Black plastic chains from range of jewellery, white patent wedge sandals, here and right, £16.50, at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Near right: Cotton pique sun bodice, straps becoming sailor collar. By Stirling Cooper, £3.50, at Peter Robinson, London, Leeds, Norwich, Oxford. High-waisted cotton Oxford bags, £5.95, at Bus Stop. Plastic choker by Adrien Mann, £1.50, at Marshall & Snelgrove. Hats, this page, spotted muslin by Malyard, £16, at Marrian McDonnell. Opposite left: Spotty cotton halter, glazed striped cotton sailor trousers, by Christopher McDonnell, £4.25, £7.50 at Marrian McDonnell. Opposite centre: Batwing striped matelot, thin polybis knit, buttoned on one shoulder, by Hans Metzen, £4, at Harvey Nichols 21 Shop; June Daybell, Cheltenham; Ginger, Epping. Madly spotted belt with Perspex spot buckle, by Nigel Lofthouse, about £7, at Browns; James Drew. Voluminous stripe trousers, from a suit, by Sujon, £9, at Lord John, King’s Road; Butterfly, Hampstead; Pussycat, York. Scallop snake heels by Terry de Havilland, £14.99, at Leicester Shoes, Up West. Both straws, black with white crown, vice versa, £11, at Herbert Johnson. Opposite right: Cotton and Vincel knit halter all in a final bow. Checked cotton pedal pushers on shirred waist. By Lizzie Carr at Plain Clothes, about £3.95, £4.95, at Conspiracy from mid-May. Patent peeptoes, £19.50, at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Cotton drill halo, Titfers, £8, Liberty. All short white gloves, about 75p, by Kir. Hair by John at Leonard.

THE NEW SPOT CHECK ‘N STRIPE SHOW

Cottons crisp, cotton knit, hats as large as saucers, trousers wide, heels high, black and white giving positive power on a summer’s day.

Photographed by Peter Knapp.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.

Ossie’s Extravaganza

1970s, Clive Boursnell, ossie clark, quorum, Vogue
Night

There was dancing in the aisles when Ossie Clark showed his autumn ’74 collection at the Chelsea Theatre where “The Rocky Horror Show” is drawing the crowds. Pattie Harrison was one of the models. Marianne Faithfull made a finale appearance.

Photographed by Clive Boursnell.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1974.

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