All Change for Autumn

19 magazine, 1970s, anello and davide, Avril Gordon, biba, Brosseau, Feathers, Fenwick, Frocks, Ginger Group, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Jean Charles Brosseau, mary quant, Michael Berkofsky, Sacha, Tony Berkley, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co.
Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black Courtelle blazer, long and lean with slightly padded shoulders, low wide lapels and plain white buttons, by Tony Berkeley, 10gns. Oxford bag-style Courtelle trousers with turn-ups, in black, rust and creamy beige, by Tony Berkeley, 6gns. Conker brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Tapestry bag, from Biba, £5 10s. Snake-print luggage also from a selection at Biba.

Autumn clothes are now beginning to filter into the shops, and we must admit that this year’s crop is better than ever. The best of last season’s shapes remain with us—long, lean, fitted coats and jackets, midi length skirts and Oxford bags with turn-ups. The new lines are more startling, and heavily influenced by the ‘Forties. Shoulders are squared off, coats have Joan Crawford swagger backs or are shaped in at the waist with a single-button fastening. All hems cover the knee, and to be seen in a mini is almost sacrilegious now. Gaucho pants and knickerbockers are the new look for legs, and blouses with soft revers and yokes are back in vogue, worn with soft collars outside. Colours are black, brown, rust and cream, or a mixture of the four in plaids and jacquards. Shoes are becoming much finer with the exception of brogues and shoes with ankle straps. Large, soft leather shoulder bags are the perfect shape to complete the picture.

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1970.

Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Courtelle swagger coat in black, rust and creamy beige, has a deep inverted pleat in the back, is fastened with plain white buttons, from Tony Berkeley, 13g ns. Brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Tapestry bag, by Biba, £5 10s. Luggage, from Biba, 6gns. to £6 10s.

Soft felt khaki-coloured hat, by Herbert Johnson, 7gns. Black wool dress embroidered at waist and cuffs, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black lace-up shoes, from Anello and Davide, 75s. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown bag, by Avril Gordon, £8. Brown felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool dress with a split skirt is trimmed with heart-shaped buttons, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 2s. Black suede belt with brown clasp, by The Wild Mustang Co., 65s. Beads, from Biba, 63s.

Brown felt hat trimmed with leather thongs, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Brown jersey knicker-bocker suit with the jacket cut like a shirt, and matching tie belt, from Frocks By Post, £6 19s.6d. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Beige felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Midi-length beige cardigan coat narrow cut with a top stitched yoke and matching trousers, from Frocks By Post, £9 19s.6d. Brogues by Sacha, 8gns.

Beige felt hat with a leather thong trim, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool long-sleeved dress is button-through at back and has a matching belt, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black leather shoes, by Anello and Davide, 75s. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown suede and patent leather shoulder bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black crêpe long-sleeved blouse, 5gns. Slim-fitting Courtelle jacket in black, rust and creamy beige with patch pockets, 71/2 gns. Black Courtelle Gaucho trousers with turn-ups, 90s. All by Tony Berkeley. Grey patent lace-up shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks.

Beige felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Creamy crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Long lean acrylic and wool jacket in grey and black, £7 15s., matching skirt, 85s. Both by Alistair Cowin for Grade One. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Bag, from Biba, £5 19s.6d. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Acrylic and wool pinafore dress in grey and black, by Alistair Cowin for Grade One, £6 10s. Black shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather shoulder bag by Avril Gordon, £8. Luggage from a selection at Biba.

Beige crochet hat, from Fenwicks, 25s. Black crêpe blouse, 5gns. Courtelle pinafore dress in black, rust and creamy beige, £6 105. Slim-fitting black Courtelle coat has wide lapels and fastens with one white button at the waist, 13gns. All by Tony Berkeley. Black T-bar leather shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Long brown chiffon scarf, 10s. Brown tortoiseshell clip, 4s.6d. Both from Fenwicks.

Brown felt hat, by J.C. Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe dress is gather-ed from a wide yoke and has a belt in suede, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £13 15s. Brown suede brogues with fringed tongue, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather bag, by Avril Gordon, 8gns. Snakeprint suitcase, from Biba, £6 10s.

Traffic-stopping, eye-popping, bill-topping crazy autumn jackets

1970s, astraka, biba, Borg, coopers, Dolcis, erica budd, Henry Lehr, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, jo grant, Leicester Shoes, mary quant, platforms, ravel, Sacha, Sandy Ratcliff, Twomax, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay, Wolf Jeworrek
LEFT. Powder blue shaggy short-sleeved jacket £15. and shocking pink and brown striped boucle mesh batwing-sleeved sweater £3.25, both trom Biba, Kensington High Street, W8. Shocking blue tights, Mary Quant 40p; pale blue and white peep-toe high-heel shoes, Sacha £12.99, pink flower-framed slant sunglasses. Coopers £5.50.

RIGHT: Shocking pink angora goatskin jacket, Ambalu, £25 from Ambalu, Kensington High Street, W8. Fruity framed bamboo sunglasses, Coopers £6, pink and white bar shoes, Ravel £6.50: shocking pink tights, Mary Quant 40p; white ribbed polo-neck sweater, McCaul, £2.80.

Jeans have always gone anywhere – now here’s how to go in style. These amazingly flash, ludicrously hairy jackets are made for any girl who wants a piece of the action.

Red haired model is Sandy Ratcliff.

Photographed by Wolf Jeworrek.

Scanned from Honey, November 1972.

[In case anyone else has the same level of sartorial interest in Classic Doctor Who as me, you might be interested to know that the blue jacket above is the same design worn by Katy Manning as Jo Grant in the story ‘The Three Doctors’.]

Katy Manning as Jo Grant in The Three Doctors, 1973.

LEFT: Shocking pink shaggy duffle jacket Henry Lehr for Borg £17.50. Yellow polo-neck jumper, Twomax £3.50; navy and white striped ankle socks, Mary Quant 55p; lemon and acid green wedge-heel shoes, Leicester £6.99.

RIGHT: Scarlet spikey fur bomber jacket. Weathergay £10.95. Striped cotton T-shirt from Biba 95p; red and yellow striped patent belt, Gay Designs 69p; chrome yellow cable-knit socks, Morley 39p; strappy wedge-heel shoes, Leicester £6.99; lemon ribbed gloves, Dents 70p.

Shaggy Borg hip-length jacket, Weathergay £13.75. Ribbed polo neck, Erica Budd £2.65; belts, Gay Designs 65p each : stripey socks 75p, tights 40p, both by Mary Quant; bar shoes, Dolcis £5.50; gloves, Dents 75p.

LEFT: Red shaggy zip-up jacket, Astraka £12.99 from all branches of Richard Shops. Blue ribbed brushed Shetland polo neck, Twomax £3.70; blue and white spotted square, Herbert Johnson 45p: blue and white high-heel shoes. Sacha £12.99: tights. Mary Ouant 40p.

RIGHT: Emerald shaggy battledress jacket with corduroy trim. Weathergay £9.50. Red and green striped sweater, Erica Budd £3-55; green tights. Mary Quant 40p; wedge-heel shoes, Leicester £6.99; red wool gloves, Dents 75p.

Ice cream pink and white curly fur and leather trimmed zipped-up jacket, Mary Quant £15.75. White ribbed polo neck, McCauls £2.80: bright blue knitted gloves, Dents 55p.

Barnstormers

1970s, Browns, Crocodile, gordon king, Honey Magazine, Ian Stokes, Inspirational Images, Jim O'Connor, Joanna Jacobs, John Craig, louis caring, Ronnie Stirling, stirling cooper, Two Generators, Vintage Editorials
Left : Mexican peasant printed cotton Aertex crew-neck sweatshirt with contrasting ribbing, Browns £8.50, from Browns. 27 South Molton Street, W1. Right : Rich chocolate brown cotton stretch velour shirt with elasticised waist and cuffs, Gordon King £14, from Gordon King at Peter Robinson Top Shop, Oxford Street, W1.

Stretch out and take life easy in these comfy, great-to-wear American-style sweatshirts.

Photographed by Ian Stokes.

Dark haired model is Joanna Jacobs.

Scanned from Honey, August 1974.

Ice cream cornet printed cotton jersey sweatshirt, Louis Caring £3.95.

White cotton fleecy-lined sweatshirt with green, brown and orange printed golfer design, John Craig £7.50. Chocolate brown chiffon scarf, from a selection at John Lewis.

Left : Olive green V-neck soft cotton velour sweatshirt, Stirling Cooper £7.95, from Ronnie Stirling, 94 New Bond Street, W1. Long flowered Liberty print cotton scarf, Fenwick £2.50. Right : Rodeo printed cotton Aertex button-through shin’ with ribbed collar and cuffs, Browns £8.50, from Browns, 25 South’Molton Street, W1. Cotton kerchief, Herbert Johnson 32p.

Navy blue and white filmstar-printed, fleecy-lined cotton sweatshirt with side slit pockets, Crocodile £15, from Crocodile, 98 New Bond Street, W1.

Texas Ranger printed cotton sloppy sweatshirt, Jim O’Connor £3.50 from Two Generators, 17 Oakhill Court, Upper Richmond Road, Putney SW15. Rayon scarf Fenwick 75p.

The Last Throes of Summer

1970s, Baltrik, Eva Sereny, Harvey Nichols, Inspirational Images, sunday times magazine, swimwear, Vintage Editorials

One of the perennial absurdities of the rag trade is that at the peak of the holiday season they start to pack the shops with winter merchandise. However, Harvey Nichols 21 Shop is selling the beachwear by Baltrik shown here for people taking their holidays now.

Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, 11th August 1974.

So lovely and rare to see a swimwear shoot by a woman photographer. The difference is subtle but I feel like there’s more candid and sensitive approach. Perhaps it’s just because Eva Sereny is one of my favourite photographers.

Gil of Max Factor

1970s, Gianni Turillazzi, Gil, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Max Factor

When Gil, of Max Factor, one of the most famous make-up experts in the world, decided to revolutionize the make-up of the seventies, top Italian photographer Gianni Turillazzi was called in to record the results on film. The idea, we understand, is that ‘make-up which previously was considered showy and heavy, will now even be able to be used by girls in convents, for the true make-up (which Gil is launching for the following ten years) does not only involve the eyes, but the whole face and sometimes even more. Colour, lots and lots of colour on women’s faces, to emphasize perfect features. or soften not-so-perfect ones, but above all to create a complete harmony between make-up, hair-style and dress.’ We hope that when they run this up the flag pole everyone salutes. Meanwhile, Gil has provided Turillazzi with a very pretty picture.

Photographed by Gianni Turillazzi

Scanned from Photography Year Book, 1974.

Patchwork and Quilting

1970s, interior design, interiors, john swannell, patchwork, Vogue

End papers from The Vogue Guide to Patchwork and Quilting, 1973.

Photographed by John Swannell.

Turn winter into spring

1970s, barbara daly, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Robert Marin, Vivienne Lynn
Here is how to bring your face right out of its winter doldrums.

This is the time of the year when you’re caught in a sort of non-season. Not quite winter, not quite spring – and you’re not quite sure what to do with yourself.

So it’s a good chance for experimenting with the newest combinations of the latest brightest shades. But subtly: phasing your face out of winter into the sunshine colours of spring.

Colours to look for are clear greens, lemon yellow, pure blues, reds, marigolds and warm pinks. Textures are creamy: in face-shapers, eyeshadows and lipsticks. Foundation stays palish, and eyebrows tweezered thin. Lips are bow-shaped, outlined with Biba’s lip pencils. And eyes are wider than ever, with lots of clear colour and still no eyeliner unless it tones in with your eyeshadow.

Model is Vivienne Lynn.

Hair by Gordon at Vidal Sassoon.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Robert Marin.

Scanned from Honey, March 1972.

Then how to bring it into the limelight and colour of spring.

Gardens of Chiffon

1970s, barry lategan, Graham Smith, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Richard Sharah, Vogue, zandra rhodes

This is the prettiness of grey pearl and greenstone make-up with a blush of coral, highlights of crystal quartz and a garden to match, by Zandra Rhodes.

Zandra Rhodes’ printed chiffon top, pleated bois-de-rose satin collar. Matching hat by Graham Smith for Zandra Rhodes. Gold star earrings from Emeline.

Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1st 1975.

Pretty Smart

Bata, chelsea cobbler, crowthers, Deco Inspired, Elliott, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, John Marks, mary quant, Patrick Russell, platforms, Sujon, Vintage Editorials
Orange and black Liberty cotton dress, Sujon, £13.50. Black suede criss-cross sandals, Bata, £6.50. / Black, mustard and blue wild-flower crepe-de-chine shirt dress, £9.75, from Crowthers. Multi-coloured leather shoes, Mary Quant, £6.

For everyone who’s bored with the 30s and outraged by the 40s and 50s, try these nice neat little dresses for size!

Photographed by Patrick Russell.

Scanned from Honey, March 1972.

Chrome yellow, emerald and red striped crepe-de-chine dress, Mary Quant, £15.75. Tangerine an lemon strappy shoes, Elliotts, £7.95.

Smart tartan Liberty cotton shirt dress, Hildebrand, £12. Strappy wooden-soled shoes, Chelsea Cobbler, £5.95. / Forest tree printed rayon crêpe de chine dress with knife-pleated skirt, Gillian Richard, £ 9.80. Peep-toe shoes, Mary Quant, £6

Neat red, white and blue circle-printed crêpe de chine dress with knife-pleated skirt, Mary Quant, £13.65. Red leather platform-soled sandals, Mary Quant, £6. / Tailored emerald green and white trimmed cotton-gaberdine shirt dress, Mary Quant, £8.70

Multi-coloured polka dot dress with tie neck and sleeves, John Marks, £7.95. Wooden and leather sandals, Chelsea Cobbler, £5.95. / Silky crêpe de chine geometric-printed dress with fluted skirt, John Marks, £13.95. Strappy leather shoes with flocked soles, Chelsea Cobbler, £7.95.

Scarlet and white confetti-spotted and striped cotton dress with swirling flared skirt, Mary Quant, £9. Leather platform shoes, Mary Quant, £6.

The Party Pyjamas

1970s, Butler & Wilson, emcar, Inspirational Images, Jackie Ross, Jon Elliot, Juliet Dunn, miss mouse, Steve Hiett, steven hiett, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Cream crepe pyjamas, left, cream satin revers and tie belt, by Juliet Dunn, about £42, at Adele Davis. Satin pyjamas, centre, in palest pink, wrap jacket – piped in white, JD motif on breast pocket, by Juliet Dunn, about £40. Creamy satin trousers, right, matching V neck top, fastened and tied at Waist, by Jakie Ross for Jon Elliot, £20.

Night for evening: The Party Pyjamas in soft silks and satins.

Photographed in the Ballroom and Crystal Room of The Berkeley Hotel.

Hair by Keith at Smile.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from Vogue, late April 1974.

Chinese mandarin jacket, left, in black satin with red, white and green print, worn over black satin trouseres, both by Miss Mouse, jacket £25, trousers £9.95. Black crepe de chine kimono, centre, sprigged with pink and cream flowers. Black satin trousers, both by Sujon, £34. Navy tricel smoking jacket, right, with red and cream print, padded shoulders, patch pockets, worn over wide matching trousers, by Emcar, £25.75.