Jaded, worldly and deliciously wicked…

1970s, Chloe, David Wolfe, fortnum and mason, Illustrations, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
…Chloe’s diamante-streaked black chiffon. Sizes 8-14, £176. Fortnum and Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1.

(a.k.a My new tagline…)

Illustrated by David Wolfe.

Scanned from Vogue, November 1971.

Meet the Keynote Kit Kids

19 magazine, 1970s, Illustrations, Keynote, psychedelia, Vintage Adverts

Very sadly the illustrator is uncredited, but incredible.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1970.

Mirror, Mirror

19 magazine, 1970s, Angela at London Town, Antiquarius, barbara trentham, Barbara Trentham, biba, bus stop, Chelsea Antiques Market, David Tack, hand tinting, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Margrit Ramme, mr freedom, Norma Moriceau, ossie clark, radley, ravel, Ricci Burns, Rose Bradford, Sacha, sheridan barnett, simon massey, Titfers, Vintage Editorials
Black satin beret, by Titfers, £8.50. Black satin blouse with shooting stars embroidered in beads, £6.95; half-mast trousers, £4.95, both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Diamante star brooch on beret, by Paul Stephens, 75p. Dangly fake diamond earring from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Fake diamond necklace from a selection at the Purple Shop, Antiquarius. Black satin beret with rhinestone stars, by Titfers, £8-50. Black satin ‘Superstar’ zipper jacket and trousers, by Angela At London Town, £17. Dangly fake diamond earring, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Art Deco wall mirror, £6 and black and silver hand mirror, from a selection at Antiquarius. Lipstick and make-up by Biba.

Christmas is coming, so take a good long look at the new you and your clothes. Look for something sexy in black with lots of spangles, for diamonds are a girl’s best friend again.

Just one word from me: Perfection.

Hair by Ricci Burns. Fashion by Norma Moriceau.

Photographed by David Tack.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1971

Floral print, crepe de Chine backless dress with halter neck, by Sheridan Barnett at Simon Massey, £8.75. Black sequin snood, from Crocodile, £4. Sheer black tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede shoes, by Ravel, £6.50. Diamante clip on velvet band, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Diamante bracelet, £3.45. Ring, 60p. By Paul Stephens. Black fur fabric jacket, £15.95. Floral-printed, crepe de Chine dress with black bodice, £12-75. Both by Sheridan Barnett at Simon Massey. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes, from Sacha, £5.99. Diamante slides, 30p. each. Crescent moon diamante slides, 75p. each. Rings, 60p. each. All by Paul Stephens. Choker, from a selection at Marie Middleton, Chelsea Antique Market. Garter, from Crocodile, £1.50. Mirrors, from the Purple Shop, Antiquarius.
Black satin beret, by Titfers, £8.50. Floral printed rayon blouse with batwing sleeves and knitted waist, cuffs and collar, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £6-50. Two-tone panelled satin skirt, by Mr Freedom, £6.25. Sheer black one-size tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede peep-toe shoes with red patent butterfly, from Ravel, £6.50. Black velvet beret, by Titfers, £4. Satin spot blouse with knitted rib trim and zipper fastening, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop, £6.50. Two-tone satin skirt, by Mr Freedom, £6.25. Sheer black one-size tights, by Elle, 65p. Black suede shoes with bow, by Sacha, £5.99. Purse from Q.9 at Antiquarius, £2. Small star brooch and crescent moon brooch, 55p. each, both by Paul Stephens. Diamante bracelets on wrist and ankle, by Paul Stephens, £3.45 each.
Little black knee-length dress in ribbed crepe with satin insets and neck tie, by Ossie Clark for Radley, £13. Black veiling net, from all leading department stores. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes with red patent trim, by Ravel, £6.50. Diamante bracelet, £3.45. Ring, 60p. Both by Paul Stephens. Moss crepe bolero, in shocking pink with black spots, over bonded-crepe halter-neck dress with spotty trimming, by Rosy Bradford for Quorum, £15.50. Sheer black tights, by Elk, 65p. Black suede shoes, by Sacha, £5.99. Diamante bracelet, by Paul Stephens, £2.

A Head of the Times

1970s, caroline baker, Harri Peccinotti, liberty, liberty's, nova magazine

Every season there is one accessory that gives any outfit the right look. This time it’s the head scarf worn twisted, plaited, knotted and wrapped round the head and neck. Easy to do, use headsquares, scarves or pieces of fabric — especially effective if you find that you can match an outfit. Here are a few ideas.

From the left: 1. Two lengths of fabric (about 27 inches wide and a little longer than you need to tie round your head) twisted and then wrapped round each other; Liberty Lantana wool Foxglove and Andrea, £1.60 per yard each. Multiple knot necktie in liberty Worsted, Louise, £3.96 per yard. 2. Head covered with Liberty Varuna wool, Erte, £3.18 per yard; loose ends at back are tucked up neatly into the folds. Plait is made with one strip each of Liberty’s Erte, Louise and Foxglove, wrapped round head; and wide gypsy knot at neck, made like a bow-tie with ends pulled through is in Liberty Varuna wool, Charlotte, £3.18 per yard. 3. Plait is two pieces of fabric twisted together; Liberty Varuna wool, Strawberry and Charlotte, £3.18 per yard. Windsor tie knot at neck is also in Liberty Varuna wool, Strawberry at £3.18 per yard. Shirts made to order at Coles, £9.85. Moroccan silver jewellery from Medina Arts. Transparent Gel Face Make-Up, Sun Bronze Air Spun by Coty, 60p.

Ahead of the times is certainly how I’d describe Caroline Baker’s work in Nova. I’m very much looking forward to finally getting my hands on a copy of Iain R. Webb’s new book Rebel Stylist: Caroline Baker – The Woman Who Invented Street Fashion (to which I’m proud to have contributed some scans!).

Fashion by Caroline Baker

Photographs by Harri Peccinotti

Scanned from Nova, November 1973.

Ski on a New Clash Course of Colour

1960s, Barney Wan, fortnum and mason, Harrods, Illustrations, Jaeger, Lillywhites, Lyle and Scott, oliver goldsmith, Simone Mirman, Simpson of Piccadilly, V de V, Vogue
Instant orange action, near right. Supple stretch nylon ski suit with small jacket, stiff stitched collar and cuffs, silver zippy slanted pockets, flat metal buckle on the belt. By Hauser Sport, 51 gns, at Simpson. White framed face fitting goggles, by Oliver Goldsmith, 6 gns, from Fortnum & Mason. Red fox fur mittens, 41 gns, at Lillywhites. Wasp yellow battle jacket, far right, with waspish black stripes and black poppers, stinging silver zips. By V de V, about 25 gns. Lean stretchy black pants, by Daks, £12 10s. Both at Simpson. Black leather mittens, £3 10s, from a selection at Harrods.

Looks like a brilliant band of dragonflies speeding down the mountain. Looks where the ac-tion is. And how. With shapes very shapely, military and zippy. Fabrics super stretchy, quilted and warm.

In honour of the late, great Barney Wan, art editor and illustrator at Vogue in the Sixties and Seventies who sadly died last week, here is a superb editorial on ski fashions illustrated by the man himself. There is something so ahead of its time about the combination of these illustrations and the layout.

Illustrations by Barney Wan.

Scanned from Vogue, November 1967.

Gadflying green streak of quilted nylon, left. Zipped all in one stretch boiler suit with white stripes circling waist and arm. By V de V, 29 gns, at Harrods. Honey fox hood, 13i gns (in several colours), at Lillywhites. Stunning stretch catsuit of orange Helanca, centre. Racy zip, little military epaulets and buckled belt; 21 gns. Matching trapper’s hat lined in fox; 14 gns. Both at Fortnum & Mason. Sun striped cashmere sweater, by Lyle & Scott, 8 gns, at Harrods. Long fast flickering stretch of quilted nylon, right. Vibrant coloured jacket, matching trousers (not shown). Bognor of Germany, about 41 gns, at Harrods. Space flying helmet with built-in Perspex shield, at Simone Mirman.
Fitted flame of quilted stretch nylon, left, orange and yellow print jacket; 18 gns. Bright yellow bell bottom trousers with buckled band; 13 gns. Both from Jaeger, Regent St. Goggles by Oliver Goldsmith, 6 gns, Fortnum & Mason. Boots, 14 gns, in a range from £10 to £25, at Pindisports.
Nifty new looks on a background of snowbound nostalgia. Quick quilted stretch jacket, left, orange, aubergine, mauve and green. With hood to match, £20 10s. Aubergine trousers, from £5 19s. 6d. Skin-tight prototype super stretch suit, near right, racily made for the men in the British Olympic team. By Harris Meyer, to order. All at Pindisports. Mauve mini suit, centre right, snow shadow shade. Seamed battle jacket with plenty of poppers, mini skirt un-zipped to more than mini culottes. In Helanca and worsted, 22 gns. Sugar pink ribbed sweater and tights, 15 gns, to order. Pink fox hood, 13; gns. All at Lillywhites. Snow bound charcoal flannel suit, far right, Tyrolean type. Flared jacket, pretty I plain knickerbockers, and cap. White rib stockings and sweater too. By Scan Style, 40 gns, Simpson.
Brisk berry red quilted jerkin and knickerbockers, top right. Quilting in cunning chevron shape and jerkin with a speedy shiny zip up the front. By Scan Style, 13 gns, at Simpson. Jazzy canary yellow culotte dress, top left. Pretty neat in nylon with a huge fox hood and big zip. By White Stag, 171 gns, at Harrods. Skinny black balaclava and tights. 7 gns, 16s. 11d, at Harrods. Bright sun yellow nylon anorak, above right, in sleek shirt shape. 151 gns. Matching Lycra and worsted ski trousers. 181 gns. And a snow powder blue sweater with sections in cable stitch. 111 gns. All three by Ernst Engel at Lillywhites.
Streamlined stretchy black nylon anorak, top right. And a pretty nifty pair of black and white plaid knickerbockers, with little gilt buckles gripping the knee cuffs. 16 gns, 14 gns, at Gordon Lowes, Sloane St. Clean limbed crisp flannel knickerbocker suit, above left. Sharply squared charcoal jerkin with broad white flannel border, white flannel cuffs. And trim white knickerbockers fast-ened with fetching gilt hinges at the knee. By Scan Style, 30 gns, at Simpson.

The Soft Touch

1970s, annacat, Ballantyne, Buckle Under, C&A, coopers, cosmopolitan, Deirdre McSharry, Fenwick, Herbert Johnson, Ian Knipe, Inspirational Images, irvine sellars, Janet Ibbotson, Jasper, jean varon, Jenny Harrington, john bates, John Craig, john kelly, Samm, Spectrum, terry de havilland, The Purple Shop, Trille, Turnbull & Asser, Vintage Editorials
Just the jacket, for interviewing the gardener… if he’s as handsome as Ian Knipe. Trille does the Lady Bountiful bit in yellow and a romantic hat. Jacket C&A £9.95, felt hat by Herbert Johnson, pearls by Ciro. Yellow angora sweater by John Craig, £2.10.

There is a licence to touch all the clothes on these pages. There is not a single trad, scratchy, thornproof tweed among any of the frankly tactile silks, angoras and flannels of autumn. Jerseys and pearls and sensible shoes were once the uniform of the WI. Now, (well) kept ladies whose fingers smell of “Cabochard” rather than cabbage, are pressing their flannel bags, having their pearls restrung and are wearing them with shirts so unbuttoned they could catch pneumonia – and heels high enough to rise above the muddiest farmyard. They are taking to pleated kilts, and cashmere sweaters so tight they’d enliven the dullest game of backgammon. Dinner dresses are back in style, and I do mean back down as far as you can go. Properly and provocatively dressed, a weekend in the country might be more fun than you think.

Hair arranged for all pictures by Carl of Molton Brown.

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by John Kelly.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, October 1972.

Give into the call of the wild, but come on softly in silk, angora and flannel. Jenny Harrington sends Ian Knipe slightly wild in her silk shirt, £15, flannel bags £16.50 by Annacat, and angora cardigan, John Craig £5. Fish pendant by Ciro. Ian’s camelhair sweater Ballantyne, £11.50. (Inset: The smoothest tweed in the softest shape will make you want to throw away your old trench. A great way to look for opening bazaars – and coping with Mellors. Coat by Coopers £33, hat by Herbert Johnson, £8.95.)
What would the WI say? Trille lolls about in cashmere sweater, skirt and pearls- -and shoes too high for country lawns. Sweater £11, skirt £30, both by Ballantyne. Pearls by Ciro. Shoes by Samm, £7.50.
Who’s for backgammon? Trille and Jenny get down to it (right) in necklines that ought to fetch the men from their port, on the double. Trille in red jersey dinner dress, John Bates for Jean Varon £16.75, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95, pearls by Ciro. Jenny in cream satin shirt by Coopers, £8, and pleated plaid skirt, Gor-Ray f11.95. Red shoes by Samm, £7.50.
The sporting life means quick repairs on the run. Jenny puts back the paint, stays ladylike in powder soft suede and silk. Jacket and skirt by Janet Ibbotson; the jacket costs £38, the skirt £33.50. Silk shirt Fenwicks, £11.50. Jewellery and shagreen compact from The Purple Shop. Shoes by Samm, £7.95.
Long weekends can lead to explosive situations – Jenny ignites something in her cashmere and kilt. Sweater by Ballantyne £13.50, skirt by Gor-Ray £11.95, shoes by Terry de Havilland £15.95. Pearls by Ciro. Ian in ruffled lawn shirt, Turnbull and Asser £11.75, check trousers Irvine Sellars £5.95.
By dawn’s early light a lady likes to relax. Ian wears C & A velvet suit £28; Trille in taffeta skirt and blouse, £5.50 each from Spectrum. Rose 84p from Spectrum. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, £12.99.
The softest touch of all is this mohair sweater (right), and a far cry from the clumpy rustic knits we used to wear. Jenny puts the new country clothes together gently—pink sweater, Buckle Under £12, pink wool skirt, Spectrum £6.95, hat by Herbert Johnson £7.50. Ian’s shirt by Jasper £5.50, check trousers £6.95 by Irvine Sellars. (Inset: Soft again —cream flannel blouse and satin trousers whipped up with beads and roses. Jenny’s blouse £5.50, trousers £5.50, flowers 84p, all from Spectrum. Ian’s blue shirt by Mr Harry £7.65.)

Twiggy by Justin de Villeneuve

1970s, bill gibb, Inspirational Images, Justin de Villeneuve, petticoat magazine, twiggy

The dress is uncredited but it looks like a Bill Gibb to me.

Photographed by Justin de Villeneuve.

Scanned from Petticoat, 16th October 1971.

Spectacular

1960s, amanda lear, corocraft, gala, kari ann muller, Sunglasses, Vintage Adverts, Vogue

Spectacular is certainly how I would describe this triumvirate of iconic models: Gala Mitchell, Kari-Ann Muller and Amanda Lear.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1968.

Judy Bowker in Annacat

1970s, annacat, Annette Green, beauty, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Judy Bowker, Make-up, Vogue
Judy Bowker: 17-year-old actress soon to be seen as Saint Clare in “Brother Sun, Sister Moon”, chosen by director Franco Zeffirelli for her young, calm and serene beauty. Here she wears Innoxa’s Satin Sheen Peach moisturised foundation with a touch of Terra Glaze Colour Sheen on her cheeks, her eyes shine with Doeskin Shadow Gleam, the lashes with Dark Brown Master Stroke Mascara, and on her lips the new Jewelfast lipstick Flapper. Dress from Annacat. Hair by Manfred of Vidal Sassoon.

Photographed by Annette Green.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1971.

Shades of Autumn

19 magazine, 1970s, art deco, celia birtwell, francois lamy, Hair and make-up, Ingmari Lamy, Inspirational Images, karl lagerfeld, Make-up, ossie clark, quorum, Revlon

We’ve tried to capture the golden richness and mellow nuances of a well-preserved old oil painting, and create our October face with the new Moody Hues make-up from Revlon’s Natural Wonder collection. Face tone should be warm and tinged with a hint of tan, and we used foundation colour ‘Bisque Beige’, 66p., dusted over very lightly with translucent pressed powder in the ‘Medium’ shade, £1.02. We rouged the cheeks with Cheek Shine in ‘Red’, £1-32. Pursuing the same rustic-toned theme we chose ‘Soulful Plum’ mascara and lashed it on both top and bottom lids, 85p. Eyes are a muted melange of ‘Tortoiseshell’ Eyeshadow Stick, 66p., and the same shade in Lid Lights, the powder version, fading to complementary ‘Minty Green’ powder shadow just under the brows, £1.10 each. We dabbed over the eyelids with ‘Brown Shine’ cream blusher for extra gloss and softness, £1.32. Lips are outlined in ‘Bracken Brown’, 62p.

Model is Ingmari Lamy.

Make-up was applied by visagiste Jean Duval of Revlon, Paris.

The beautiful décolleté dress with huge winged sleeves is in black with a yellow, red and blue feather print, from Quorum, £24.

‘Forties-style hair was dressed by Tina of the Jean-Louis Davide Salon in Paris.

Photographed in the apartment of Karl Lagerfeld, the designer, by Francois Lamy.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1971.