telegraph magazine

The Teenage Dream

1970s, Ambalu, biba, Bugatti, bus stop, Crochetta, Dolcis, edward mann, Elliott, erica budd, freddie mercury, jeff banks, Judit Ullman, kangol, katharine hamnett, Kickers, laura ashley, lee bender, mr freedom, queen, Ronnie Stirling, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, Shelana, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, tuttabankem, Vintage Editorials, zandra rhodes
Dark girl wears suede Bermuda shorts (with matching jacket); approx. £27, Ambalu. Printed cotton halter top by Erica Budd; £2. Snake wedge sandals; £14.99, Russell & Bromley. Striped tights, Mary Quant. Blonde wears shorts, £7, and vest top, £7, in cotton/rayon mixture, by Crochetta. Socks by Mary Quant. Patent wedge shoes; £8.99, Russell & Bromley. Cotton cap; £2.50, by Edward Mann. All jewellery by Corocraft.

. . . does not always suit a mother’s requirements. Not only is today’s teenager wildly enthusiastic about fashion, pop, hair and makeup, but she also has very firm ideas about what she wants. She is sophisticated, worldly and confident, seeing herself as a femme fatale —while mother sees her more in terms of gymslips. So here we present the perfect compromise, contrived to impress mother and daughter alike. Visual backing comes from members of the group Queen, whose current hit single for EMI is The Seven Seas of Rhye.

Fashion Editor Cherry Twiss.

Hair by Christine at Ricci Burns.

Make-up by Mariella for Yardley.

Stage clothes for Queen by Zandra Rhodes.

Photographed by Geg Germany.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, July 1972.

Marianne (left) looks stunning in a red spotted cotton halterneck sundress and striped cardigan. Right: Louise counters with breezy, baggy blue denim pants and red top. With Freddie Mercury, lead singer of Queen.

Dark girl wears red spotted cotton halterneck sundress and matching knickers; £6.35, from Biba. Long cardigan; £15.95, from Ronnie Stirling. Spotted cap; £2.50, by Edward Mann from Simpson, Piccadilly. Blonde girl wears baggy blue denim pants with elasticated waistband; £10.95 by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Short cotton top; £1.99, all branches Dorothy Perkins. Hat by Edward Mann.

Marianne (left) looks devastating in a red and yellow suit with red and yellow shoes to match. Right: Louise sports a blouson jacket with trousers, completing the look with embroidered cap.

Dark girl wears a yellow and red jersey suit; £12.95 from Mr Freedom, Kings Road, London; SW3. Long red socks by Mary Quant. Red and yellow “Kicker” shoes; £9.50 from Bugatti, Kensington Church Street, London, W8. Blonde girl wears a blue print satin blouson jacket; £15, by Jeff Banks, from Top Shop at Peter Robinson. Blue Trevira gaberdine trousers with two narrow belts; £8.99, by Shelana. Embroidered cap; £2.20, by Edward Mann, from Simpson, Piccadilly, WI.

Marianne (left) in a very feminine line-up of frilled striped cotton skirt and striped socks. Right: Louise teams a green and navy cotton top wit a frilled skirt. Looking on are two members of Queen.

Dark girl wears a midi-length frilled striped cotton button-through skirt; £9.95, by Judit Ullman for Ronnie Stirling. Green and white striped top; £3.25, from all branches of Dorothy Perkins. Red satin wedge shoes; £7.95, T. Elliott. Socks; Mary Quant. Straw hat; £5, Biba, Kensington High Street, W8. Blonde girl wears a green and navy print cotton top, £4, and frilled skirt, £4.75; from Laura Ashley, 157 Fulham Road, SW3.

Cream is in favour with Marianne (left) looking great in culottes and baggy blouse. Right: Louise wears a cream skirt and blouson jacket. Seems to impress Queen roadies John and Paul, too.

Dark girl wears cream cotton gaberdine culottes; £12.50, by Katherine Hamnett for Tuttanbankem. Blouse with short sleeves and elasticated waist; £9.95, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Cream hat by Kangol. Cream woven sling-back wedge shoes; £6.99, from Sacha. Orange silk scarf by Ascher. Blonde girl wears a cream cotton skirt; £7.95, by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Brown check cotton blouson jacket; £4.95, by Riva. Cream hat by Kangol. Multi-striped canvas shoes; £5.99, Russell & Bromley, Cream leather bag; £4.99, Dolcis.

Ireland Lends Poetry to Fashion

1970s, Anders Holmquist, baccarat, bill gibb, chelsea cobbler, cherry twiss, christian dior, Deliss, Diorling, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, Mexicana, Nettie Vogues, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, Vintage Editorials, Worth
A white cotton lace dress by Mexicana, seen in the tranquil green surroundings of Mount Kennedy in Co. Wicklow.

Many designers look increasingly to the past for their inspiration, and, to find suitable backgrounds for modern clothes. Fashion Editor Cherry Twiss took a selection to Ireland where, with the help of the Irish Georgian Society, she discovered magical, timeless settings for the newest fashions.

“Upgathering Feather-like frills, they step demure as nuns, Nor heed the menacing eyes on every side, Dead set unceasingly like levelled guns. Truly I think each woman is a bird.” Seamus O’Sullivan, Birds.

As always, no shouting at the me for the furs please. Pretend they’re fake. Enjoy the pretty clothes and landscapes instead…

Plaits by Tovar Tresses at Miss Selfridge.

Hair by Roger at Vidal Sassoon.

Make-up by Estee Lauder.

Photographed by Anders Holmquist.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, August 21st 1970.

Lofty ancestral staircase at Mount Ievers, Co. Clare makes a beautiful, subdued setting for Baccarat’s pleated skirt and printed suede tunic. The laced boots are by Deliss.
Recalling former glories at Dollardstown, a drifting Ascher silk giselle dress, all frills and flounces, designed by Gina Fratini and worn with a beaded choker. Taffeta boots from The Chelsea Cobbler.
Mount Ievers, reflected in its own pool, speaks for the brooding timelessness of old Ireland. The black velvet Diorling midi suit is worn with a winged, onyx clip. The black silk boots are made by Deliss.
Feather like frills in the tangled splendour of the grounds of Dollardstown, Co. Meath. Black pleated organza cape and dress by Nettie Vogues. Boots by Deliss.
At the gates of Mount Ievers, a swirling tweed cape, fringed in black wool, by the House of Worth. Leather boots by Deliss.

It’s what a man wears underneath that counts

1970s, interior design, interiors, Lyle and Scott, Mensday, menswear, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, underwear, Vintage Adverts

One in my now very, very sporadic ‘Mensday’ series. This one doubles up as an interiors post as well, with Mr Freedom-influenced stars and stripes bedding (it might take you a while to focus properly).

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, March 17th 1972.

The Renaissance of Elegance

1960s, cherry twiss, florence, Inspirational Images, italy, ken scott, Pucci, Robert Freson, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, Vintage Editorials
Ognibene-Zendman: silk culotte pyjamas, in the Palazzo Orsini, Rome.

Paris in recent seasons has seemed to be more interested in the line of a dress than whether it enhances the body. So Weekend Telegraph turned to Rome and Florence, where the emphasis is still on elegance and femininity, to report on this year’s Spring and Summer Collections.

Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Photographed by Robert Freson.

Scanned from The Weekend Telegraph Magazine, February 24th 1967.

Ken Scott: matching floral prints, in the Villa Ombrellino, Florence.
Pucci: chiffon tent, crepe trousers, Villa Ombrellino.
Mila Schön: beaded tube, in the Villa Lante, Bagnaia.
Forquet: lace poncho over jewelled leggings, in the Palazzo Orsini.
Barocco: laminated silk tunic dress, in the Palazzo Orsini.

Indoor Fireworks

1970s, biba, charles jourdan, cherry twiss, Chic of Hampstead, Inspirational Images, janet reger, Lucienne Phillips, ossie clark, quorum, Sam Haskins, Sheilagh Browne, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, thea porter, Vintage Editorials, Yuki, yves saint laurent, zandra rhodes
Sparkling black chiffon dress with plunging neckline and diamante embroidery, £250 from Thea Porter, 8 Greek Street, London W1

Japanese men are peculiarly affected by a glimpse of the naked nape of a Japanese neck. In Western cultures such excitement is generated by a panorama of bosom (as in this black chiffon dress by Thea Porter), or a smooth swathe of thigh. Here we show some revelations from the London autumn collections… hot numbers for the coolest of winter evenings.

All perfect for lockdowns, I’m sure you’ll agree! It’s also nice to be surprised by Ossie Clark every once in a while – with a corset being so vastly different in tone from what we would usually expect.

Photographed by Sam Haskins.

Fashion Editor: Cherry Twiss.

Hair by Paulene at Michaeljohn.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, 8th November 1974.

Cream and brown two piece with lace split skirt and boned top by Ossie Clark. Shoes by Charles Jourdan, 47/49 Brompton Road, SW3
Slate blue dress by Yuki. Approximately £,165 from Fortnum and Mason, Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, London NW3 or Lucienne’s, 89 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Gold and jade bangles from Jones, 52 Beauchamp Place, London SW3.
White silk chiffon and net full skirt and sheer top by Zandra Rhodes, to order from Fortnum and Mason.
Black jersey skirt with split front by Yuki obtainable from Fortnum and Mason or Chic of Hampstead. Sheer silk chiffon halter top by Sheilagh Browne, £14 from Quorum. Black suspender belt from Janet Reger, Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W2. Black stockings from Biba, Kensington High Street, W8. Shoes from Yves St Laurent, 113 New Bond Street, W1 .
Corset and skirt by Ossie Clark (as before)

Riding on the Hot Side

1970s, Anna Beltrao, benny ong, body shop, charles jourdan, Inspirational Images, Lucienne Phillips, norman parkinson, paris, shuji tojo, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, Vintage Editorials
Most revealing body suit of the season costs £40. Trench coat worn over it, £86. Cummerbund is £6.50; all by Benny Ong.

Would you dare to wear it? The body suit is what top designers have dreamed up for dancing this summer – to be worn with the barest excuse of a skirt, or a floating piece of chiffon. Norman Parkinson photographed some of the most exciting ideas in the modernised Paris Metro.

I would never have thought of sweltering on the Paris Metro as some kind of ‘normal’ experience I would aspire to, but here we are.

Shoes from Charles Jourdan and Walkers.

Fashion Editor Penny Knowles.

Photographed by Norman Parkinson.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, Number 125 (February) 1979.

Looking romantic in the rush hour are blue and white striped organza dresses by Anna Beltrao, complete with body suits: fun but expensive at £200 each.
White satin body suit comes with wrap-around skirt in broderie Anglaise: £200. Demure white satin cap, £20. All by Anna Beltrao, from Haya 1, 12 Grafton Street, London.
Body suit for disco dancing all year round is striped red and black: £14.95. Red satin skirt, £16.95. Both available in other colours. By the Body Shop, 239 King’s Road, London.
Shocking pink body suit with red V comes with matching skirt. By Shuji Tojo, £98 from Lucienne Phillips, 89 Knightsbridge.

Fashion Goes Into Purdah

1970s, cherry twiss, Crocodile, deborah and clare, Inspirational Images, jean muir, kurt geiger, Sacha, Savita, Suliman, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, thea porter, universal witness, Vintage Editorials
Savita’s orange and red printed muslin hot skirt and balloon sleeved midi top. The latticed rust suede hat and scarf are from Suliman.

After the systemic strip of the West’s liberated women comes a longing for the romance and mystery of the East. The newest clothes reflect this mood with suggestive gauzes and clinging crepes. We took some to Bahrain, where the women are still heavily veiled and pass secluded lives in the harem.

A textbook example of the trend towards ‘exotic’ inspiration in the fashion world of the late Sixties/early Seventies. Most famously by Thea Porter, of course, but also with lesser known labels such as Suliman and Savita. Another strand of the post-Sixties backlash against the minimal and the space-age, along with the period romanticism of Laura Ashley and the more kitschy retro Rock’n’Roll stylings of Glam Rock.

As an aside, I always feel a little uncomfortable posting these ‘location’ shoots when they involve local characters, because it can feel a little exploitative. But at the same time, I don’t want to censor the past and think it’s important to remind ourselves of how fashion needs to be less exploitative and culturally ‘acquisitional’, even now.

I was also very entertained to note that a variation on the first image was used as part of the hilarious series of Smirnoff adverts and that I scanned back in 2015. There are only a few months between the two and I’m fascinated to know whose decision that was!

Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Photographed by Sacha.

Scanned from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, 2nd July 1971.

White banlon dress by Simon Massey.
Flawless blue silk crepe jersey dress by Jean Muir. Gold sandals by Kurt Geiger.
Butter muslin shirt from Deborah and Clare. Striped satin skirt from The Universal Witness. The harem pants were made in the local souk.
Lace skirt and jacket by Thea Porter. Sequin cap from Crocodile.
Black crepe bloomer dress by Jean Muir.
Bronze slipper satin dress by Thea Porter.

Living up to a reputation

1970s, Alice Ormsby-Gore, amanda lear, Asha Puthli, bill gibb, british boutique movement, christopher mcdonnell, frederick fox, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, jean muir, jean varon, joanna lumley, john bates, mary quant, pat cleveland, Sally McLaughlan, telegraph magazine, Terence Donovan, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, zandra rhodes

For some years now the London fashion designers have had the edge on their Paris rivals for ideas and innovations. Tomorrow evening a film on this subject will be shown on BBC1. Today we photograph the key London designers with their favourite clothes. What do they think of the London fashion scene? Where do we go from here?

Photographed by Terence Donovan. Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, May 25th 1973.

Zandra Rhodes originally trained as a textile designer; she began designing clothes in 1968. She does not have her own retail shop; her fabulous creations are made to order and sell through the big stores. “I think fashion in London is like a sea with lots of little islands, lots of different looks. I am my own couture island,” she says. “I don’t like committing myself to any one collection. I like adding to it as my ideas come along.” Pat Cleveland, top American model, is wearing Zandra’s “off-the-shoulder lily dress” .of printed grey and cream chiffon with satin-backed bodice and embroidery. From Piero de Monzi, 70 Fulham Road, SW3.
Mary Quant, photographed with her husband Alexander Plunkett-Green, became famous in 1955 when she opened the first “Bazaar” shop in the King’s Road, Chelsea. Now her business includes linen, make-up, tights and dolls as well as clothes, all bearing the unmistakable Quant touch. Of current London fashion she says: “I think the mood is classic, and I love it.” Amanda, a model who typifies Mary’s look, wears trousers, striped pullover and co-ordinating jacket, all in an angora and polyester mixture, and a pure silk shirt. Mary chose this outfit because “it is the epitome of my new collection -the best of everything. Modern classics in the right colours, subtle soft fabrics, elegance, chic – the sort of outfit you want to live in.” From Mary Quant’s new autumn collection, available in September.
Designer Jean Muir with Harry Lockart, her husband and business manager. She started the firm which bears her name in 1966; her distinctive clothes are available at all the major stores. Says Harry Lockart: “The London fashion scene has tremendous potential and on the design side is moving marvellously. It must need organising very professionally along Paris lines, with proper collection weeks, at times that do not clash, so that buyers can see everything.” Joanna Lumley is wearing an olive green two-tiered silk jersey dress described by Jean as “one of my favourites”. About £75 from Lucienne Phillips, 69 Knightsbridge, SW3, or Brown’s, South Molton Street, W1 . Jade necklace by Jean Muir, £15. Shoes, £24, by Charles Jourdan, 47 Brompton Road, SW3. Tights, Elle.
Designer John Bates (left) with John Siggins, Director who handles Publicity, Press and External Contracts. John Bates started the firm of Jean Varon in 1959; he thinks that “fashion in London is no different from anywhere else; but it is only just recently that it has been taken seriously”. Kellie, who is one of John Bates’s favourite models, is wearing a Tricel surah dress in a print by Sally McLaughlan exclusive to John Bates. About £55 from Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1 ; Barkers, Kensing-ton High Street, W8; Bentalls of Kingston; Kendal Milne of Manchester. Hat made to order by Frederick Fox, 26 Brook Street, W1.
Christopher McDonnell started his career early in 1967 and now sells his designs at his famous shop in South Molton Street. He thinks London is the most exciting place for evening wear, “but until the factories learn how to cope technically with good ideas for day clothes, the rest of Europe will remain ahead of us in this field.” The model is Ika, who, says Christopher, can interpret any look. She is wearing a cream silk suit with short skirt, £33 from Christopher McDonnell, 45 South Molton Street, W1 . White silk turban £9.50 from George Malyard, 3 King Street, WI. Bangles and choker from Emeline, 45 Beauchamp Place, SW3.
Designer Bill Gibb started out on his own in 1969 and was voted “Designer of the Year” in 1970. He now has a wholesale firm, and in fashion feels that “everybody makes a different sort of contribution”. Asha Puthli, singer and actress is wearing a peach double satin jacket and halter top embroidered and edged with black leather, and Lurex pleated skirt. About £200 from Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, NW3, or Chases, Bond Street, Wl. Shoes £14.95 by Chelsea Cobbler, 33 Sackville Street, W1 . Tights by Echo. Alice Ormsby-Gore is wearing a plain and printed grey Lurex skirt and sequin embroidered top, £128. Turban by Diane Logan to order. All from Lucienne Phillips, or ZigZag, 100 New Bond Street, Wl. Shoes £14.95 from Chelsea Cobbler. Tights by Echo.

Just Like Granny Used To Wear

1970s, biba, bus stop, Foale and Tuffin, Hiroshi, Inspirational Images, lee bender, mary quant, ravel, telegraph magazine, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials

just like granny 1

Very Thirtyish, with its floral print and elbow length sleeves, a Liberty print cotton dress by Foale and Tuffin. Leather shoes by Ravel. Crochet straw hat by Biba.

Granny’s clothes are coming back. Trend-setting girls saw some time ago what pinched-in waists and long clinging crepes could do for them. Now manufacturers and boutiques have seen the potential. But beware – for it is only on the very young that granny’s clothes look very new.

Hair by Howard at Vidal Sassoon. Make-up by Yardley. Fashion by June McCallum.

Photographed by Hiroshi.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, August 7th 1970.

just like granny 2

Small white flowers are printed on the black background of a cotton jersey dress that granny might have worn as a girl. Designed by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. The shiny leather lace-up shoes are by Ravel.

just like granny 3

Far from looking old-fashioned, this printed cotton suit from Biba is beautifully up-to-date with its fitted waist, peplum and long skirt. the lace-up granny boots are from Ravel.

just like granny 4

Double chiffon dress for serious occasions has the dropped waistline, sash and long sleeves with scalloped trim of the Twenties. By Mary Quant’s Ginger Group.

just like granny 5

Printed crepe suit with a fitted shape that is a reminder of the Forties. By Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Shoes are from Ravel.

Believe it or not, this is rainwear

1960s, anello and davide, annacat, biba, burt glinn, charles jourdan, cherry twiss, Herbert Johnson, Hilary Floyd, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, old england, ossie clark, susan small, telegraph magazine, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 1

Showerproof cotton drill jodhpur suit by Biba. Fake snakeskin hat by Herbert Johnson. Black crocodile boots by Anello & Davide.

Since PVC, macs have been exotic… now the real exotics are turning waterproof. Weekend Telegraph photographed some of the unlikely new water-shedders in Jamaica, beside the Rio Grnde and in the Land of Look Behind.

Photographed by Burt Glinn.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine, July 1967.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67

A PVC zip-up jumpsuit by Hilary Floyd modelled in Dunn’s River, Jamaica. Watch by Old England.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 2

Waterproof pigskin culottes by Cordoba Suedewear. Silk shirt by Annacat. Snakeskin waistcoat by Quorum.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 3

Hand knitted bikini by Spotlight. Trenchcoat by Weathergay.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 4

Showerproof cotton drill bermuda suit by Biba. Mock croc hat by Herbert Johnson.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 5

Canvas jacket by Andre Ledoux for Sidwall.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 6

Waterproof snakeskin brocade three-piece trouser suit by Susan Small. Crocodile Dior shoes by Charles Jourdan.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 7

Terylene and cotton cloak and hood by Burberrys. Tricel jersey evening dress and scarf by John Bates for Jean Varon.