Christmas Decoration

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara daly, David Anthony, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Vivienne Lynn

Fantasy and theatre is the theme – lots of colour and glitter the focal points … Fantasy can run the whole gamut, but we like the feel of a ‘Thirties-type Hollywood pin-up pic, the soulful tragi-comic look of a clown or even a glamorous ‘Twenties flapper girl. Take your pick, and choose your own Christmas decorations.

An idea we captured from the realms of Erte, the artist and designer of the ‘Twenties – true theatrical fantasy, ideal for all your Christmas parties, a look which you can create yourself following our instructions.

Hair and the silver sequined skull cap with front forehead curl, was dressed by John at Leonard. To do this style yourself, use sequin strips (available on a card) and wrap them first round the head in a skull cap shape, making sure they sit flat, close an neatly. Leave a small strand of hair free and set it into a little curl. Then, take single hair strands, as we have done, and intertwine them with a sequin strip, like a plait.

Model is Vivienne Lynn.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1971.

Tokyo to Tahiti

1970s, harpers and queen, Jaeger, marie helvin, Vintage Adverts

Model is Marie Helvin.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, October 1971.

Shaping Up

1970s, antony price, che guevara, gala, Inspirational Images, Karl Stoecker, manolo blahnik, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, Vintage Editorials, zapata

Main image: Crepe-de-chine two-piece, £20. Shoes by Zapata, 49 Old Church St, London SW3

One thing that designer Antony Price really understands is pattern cutting : “I can think of a shape and create an optical illusion — people’s figures don’t change, clothes make figures.” Price, who designed all these clothes, wants women now to start looking artificially female, but “in a sumptuous way — this time it’s bosoms, hips and tiny waists”. He admits to being influenced by the Fifties and his ex-showgirl sister who lives in Miami and looks like his idol Jayne Mansfield. “The Fifties were less extreme, taste was incorporated into everything.” He wants shoes tall and dangerous like his own cowboy boots, but insists that his clothes (available direct or mail order from Che Guevara, 23 Kensington High St, W8) are comfortable. “What’s more comfortable than swimming costume tops?”

So, so good. Model, designer and photographer are the most perfect combination. It even has Manolo Blahnik shoes for good measure.

Model is Gala Mitchell.

Story by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Karl Stoecker

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, February 13th 1972.

Shiny one-piece outfit, £18. Shoes, Zapata.

Cotton suit that owes its shape totally to the cut, £18.

Batman Cire dress/cape, £20. Six inch boots, £25.

Deep V-necked ruched nylon dress, £12.99. 5-inch silver shoes, £18.

Kissin’ Cousins

1970s, alice springs, Anne Tyrrell, aquascutum, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, Borg, Butler & Wilson, C&A, Chi Chi, cosmopolitan, crowthers, Deirdre McSharry, Diane Logan, Elle, Henry Lehr, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, just men, marie france, medusa, miss mouse, ossie clark, quorum, Reldan, ritva, Sacha, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay

Pink and wild coat is hooded and all set to trap the unwary male. Borg coat by Henry Lehr, £17.50, trousers by Sujon, £9.50. His coat by C & A in suedette, £13.95. Hat by Locke, £5.25.

. . . or how to wear furs this winter without hurting your pet’s feelings.

There is nothing, absolute nothing quite like wrapping yourself in fur. As a sensuous experience, it is in the same class as a new love, old champagne or fresh truffles. But even the most hedonistic of women are relieved that the threatened species are no longer imported. Snow leopards, tigers and other cats can go their own way and sensibly sybaritic female will look for furs that are farmed, such as fox and mink. This winter, too, the fakes are so wayout and wildly coloured that only a girl without a heart could resist their charms, albeit synthetic. Perhaps that’s why the fur trade have taken the hint and dipped their favourite fox pelts in the dye pot, Furrier Maxwell Croft offers his explanation of the female urge to wear and the male urge to bestow furs: “For many men it is a primitive desire to see his woman in furs.”. Very nice, too.

Plenty to scoff at the end of the copy there, but oh goodness the clothes – the clothes! And the glorious photography of Alice Springs, whose work doesn’t turn up nearly enough for my liking.

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by Alice Springs.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, November 1972.

Kissin’ cousin to a polar bear, but lots slimmer, is this smashing white shaggy coat. Wear it with white flannel bags, an angora sweater and an even shaggier hat. Well-cut coat in Borg with stitched suede edges. By Marie France for Quorum, £36, Ossie Clark trousers £14, sweater £4. Hat by Diane Logan, £5, shoes from Sacha £7.99. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Mike’s coat from Just Men, £70. Trousers from Aquascutum, £14.50.

The shaggiest coat story of the season-outrageous powder pink number, worn over pink striped sweater and pleated skirt. The dog is also fake, Chi Chi’s own and christened Fifi by Mike. Borg coat by Biba, £15, sweater by Reldan £3.33, skirt by Crowthers £5.75. Beads by Loewe.

Chi Chi turns her back on the world in scooped dress by John Bates for Jean Varon, £22. White shaggy jacket in Lister’s synthetic, £13.75 by Weathergay. Photographed at Julie’s Restaurant, 135 Portland Rd, London W11 (01-22) 8331).

How to have that movie-star feeling. If you want the big star treatment – breakfast at Tiffany’s, diamonds as big as the Ritz – dress like a star in electric blue fox. Dress by Elle, £15. Fox coat by Dinni for Femina Furs, £295. Moonstone necklace at Butler and Wilson. His outfit by Aquascutum. Velvet jacket £38.50, shirt £10.50, cuff links from £3 50, trousers £12.50

Tea for two. Mike makes up to Chi Chi (that’s the model girl, not the coat) in her shaggy yellow number, worn with shiny striped shirt and mustard bags. Borg coat by Marie France for Quorum £23.50, shirt by Medusa £5.50, trousers by Sujon £9.50. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Photographed at The Royal Garden Hotel, London.

Enough to drive a man wild-a nutty fake fur, above right, with Fifties shoulders and swing back. Wear it nicely over mustard crêpe de chine shirt and peg-top trousers. Both by Sujon, shirt £13, trousers £9.50. Borg coat by Biba £25, beret, Diane Logan, £4.50, shoes, Sacha, £7.99. His coat, Aquascutum, £70, trousers C & A £3 95.

Enough to make Morgan the gorilla, jealous. (Remember A Suitable Case For Treatment?) Emerald green gorilla jacket in real-life Borg by Weathergay, £9.50 (right). Worn over slinky knit sweater and skirt from Ritva, £27 for the outfit. Blue shaggy beret by Diane Logan, £4.50. Mike’s sweater in blue and silver by Ritva, £18.50. Trousers from C & A £5.50.

Jealous cats show their ruffled furs. Chi Chi and Belinda act out the classic movie-star confrontation in their sequins and furs, Chi Chi in pleated taffeta with sequin bodice by Anne Tyrell for John Marks, £23.95; her boa is silver fox, ranch bred, price £70. Belinda’s fox is red, also from the ranch, price £45, both by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs. Strapless top and trousers by Miss Mouse, £20. Beads by Loewe.

Imagine your first big scene

19 magazine, 1970s, Highlight, maudie james, moyra swan, Vintage Adverts

Obviously it helps if you look like Maudie James and Moyra Swan…

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1970.

Lovely things in Leather

1970s, anello and davide, Barney Bosshart, Diego, Frances Stuart, Harpers Bazaar, Inspirational Images, pablo and delia

A new model — and her way of wearing knickerbockers : Frances Stuart, above, is a cousin of Sally Chrichton-Stuart, wife of the Aga Khan, though it is a bit mean to say so as she would rather her name were not connected with her family: she wants to make her own way as a model. She is 17, and although she has only been at it for 6 months has already been chosen as a model for Mary Quant’s latest collection — a perceptive choice if she looked as good as a Ginger Grouper as she does here in her currently favourite outfit: panne velvet skinny puff-sleeved jacket, low-necked to show off her choker, and knickerbockers teamed with shoes laced up above the ankle — a decorative alternative with chopped-off trousers to the ubiquitous boot. Red and mustard suede choker, centred with a bead, and the red and blue butterfly choker on her arm, are by Pablo and Delia. Suit, Diego, 12gns at Topaz, W1; Latters, Glasgow. Red shoes, £3 15s from Anello & Davide; Berkshire’s yellow tights. Hair Aaron at Sissors.

Lovely things in leather: Pablo and Delia, originally painters from Buenos Aires, only came to London from New York 6 months ago, but in that short space of time have made their name as the creators of fabulous scenic belts, chokers, wrist-bands, bags, and other leather accessories including berets — see the beautifully stitched and painted beret shown below, again worn, with another of their leather chokers, by Frances Stuart. Their leather works of art are at Browns, Thea Porter (for whom they make special items), Feathers, and The Shop in Sloane Street. In the future they are hoping to branch out and make other things, including dresses, staying on in London rather than returning to New York because they like it better: ‘it’s more human-sized’.

(Taken from Harpers Bazaar’s regular ‘Shopping Bazaar’ feature.)

Photographed by Barney Bosshart.

Scanned from Harpers Bazaar, September 1970.

the pillbox

Browns, guy bourdin, hats, Inspirational Images, karl lagerfeld, Manuella Papatakis, Moravetz, Vogue

Here are the beginnings of a new silhouette and a new face, eyeliner, lipstick, not much mascara, a little rouge. Hair sleeked away somewhere. The hat: an uncompromising pillbox tipped over one eyebrow. Get used to it now, before anyone else.

Both hats by Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe, at Browns.

Veiling from John Lewis. Necklace, £6.75, Butler & Wilson.

Hair by Regis at Mods Hair, Paris.

Make-up by Moravetz.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Vogue, August 1972.

Black cire draped pillbox on Manuella Papatakis, daughter of Anouk Aimee.

Bunch of Pinks

1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, bill klein, cosmopolitan, Erika Bergmann, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, john kelly, Make-up

Cover picture of Erika Bergmann by John Kelly. Erika is wearing our Cosmo fluffy feather jacket offer – exclusive to Cosmo readers. Turn to page 99 for details. Eriika’s pink and silver lame dress, £9, pink bangle 55p, bunch of pinks 25p, all from Biba, Kensington High St, W8. Hair is arranged by Pauline of Michaeljohn, the make-up by Biba; eyes are shadowed with Havana Brown powder tint over Havana Brown gloss, with Sugar Pink powder under the eyebrows. The false lashes are Brown Spiders and the lipstick is Sugar Pink topped with lipgloss. The tan is the model’s own work.

Photographed by John Kelly (cover) and Bill Klein (feature).

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, September 1972.

Ossie Vamps it Up – But Superbly

1970s, celia birtwell, flair magazine, Inspirational Images, kari ann muller, manolo blahnik, ossie clark, Peter Rand, quorum

Long dress with side pleats and sash tie at back, in black marocain flower print, red poppies at the neck.

OSSIE CLARK, twenty-nine, designs clothes that would be right up the street for the woman whose profession is the oldest in the world. There’s nothing Woman’s Lib. here, thank you. His twelfth collection is outlandishly, gloriously and candidly tarty. But tarty in the ’40s and early ’50s sense of dressing: brazen, glamorous, passion-ately female. The cut of the clothes is masterful. The old black magic is there. Jazzy sequins. Star insets. High wedge heels. Ankle straps. Bias cut crepe. Oodles of pleats. Blowsy tulips and full-blown poppy prints. Plus black, and lots of it. You name it—it’s there, superbly executed.

Fabrics include new prints on marocain by Ossie’s wife, Celia Birtwell. Hairdos evoke memories of Rita Hayworth & Co. And contours are as they should be: breasts (bra-less), waists, hips and bottoms are all back in their rightful place — and proud of it. Ossie’s new clothes are as scarlet womanish as they are beautiful and witty. When you wear them you automatically adopt a Monroe wiggle.

Top price for a frock from his collection is £150, but around a fiver will buy you a printed crepe shirt. You may not be able to take this look seriously — but it will probably influence the way you dress next season. For Ossie’s secret as a designer is that his tarty vamps keep chic and never look cheap, jaded, or just plain common.

Photographed here are a selection of Ossie’s new clothes.

All enquiries for stockists and prices to Quorum Wholesale, 6 Burnsall Street, SW3.

Modelled by Kari-Ann Muller.

Hair by Richard at Maximillian.

Shoes by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, SW3, from £17.75.

Photographed by Peter Rand.

Scanned from Flair, August 1971.