Black beaded hat, with veil and feather trim, made to order, by Gerry Richards from Cornucopia. Red panne velvet dress, from Just Looking, £20.20. Gold, red and black shawl, from Essences, £40. Bangles, from £4. Selected rings, from £1.50. All by Adrien Mann. Cane stool, from Biba, £15.
It’s party time! And there are lots of slinky, exciting numbers around. So all you Christmas sophisticates get moving. Add tops to simple, sleeveless dresses and Hey, Presto! You’ve doubled your party outfits. Search around street markets for strips of exotic fabric — wind them round your head or drape them around your shoulders. Go wildly Eastern by wearing satin pants and sexy, close-fitting blouses. Use a little imagination and transport yourself (and escorts!) into a fantasy world. Can you hear Middle-Eastern music? You’re in the land of The Thousand And One Nights.
Make-up by Barbara Daly.
Models are Mouche and Cathee Dahmen
Photographed by David Anthony.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1974.
Cyclamen felt hat, with black beading and feather trim, made to order by Gerry Richards at Cornucopia. Pink cotton shirt, with pink embroidered flower trim, from Forbidden Fruit, £20. Gold lacy bolero, from Biba, £20. Pink satin trousers, with pleated front, made to order from Essences, £15. Gold sandals, from Elliotts, £7.50. Pink and gold slubbed silk scarf, from Cornucopia, £5. Shawls from a selection at Essences. Large lurex cushions, from Biba, from £20. Set of three pink and gold cushions, from Essences, £ 75.
Black satin kimono dress, with blue floral print, by Gordon King, £21.75. Black ostrich feather fan, from Cornucopia, £6. Gilt bracelets, with red stones, from £4. Mock diamond rings, from £1.50. All by Adrien Mann.
Coloured beaded hat, from Carla Sklan at Antiquarius, from £10. Grey cotton blouse, with maroon and cream floral trim, from Forbidden Fruit, £35. Blue and gold shawl, £25. Blue Arab scarf, at waist, £20. Both from Essences. Drop earrings, £3. Silver bangle, £4.50. Both from Tibet House. Coloured glitter rings, by Adrien Mann, from £1.50. Man: Gold net shawl, with solid silver trim, £25. Yellow and silver striped jacket, £12.50. Both from Essences.
White lace shawl, with silver pattern, tied around head, from Essences, £50. Cream banlon dress, with halter neck, from Just Looking, £11.25. White satin blouse, with diarnante and silver trim, £24. Ostrich feather fan, £8. Both from Cornucopia. Diamante brooch, on forehead, from £3. Diamante bangles, from £4. Bracelet, from £4. Small diamante rings, from £1.50. All by Adrien Mann. Shawl from Essences, £25.
Scarf, tied as turban, from a selection at Essences. Brooch, £1.50. Necklace, £2. Both from selection by Adrien Mann.
Heather coloured windowpane-checked wool dress with plunging V-neck and navy suede sash belt, Wallis £27, from all branches of Wallis shops. Flowered silky square, Orange Box 75p; stiff brimmed felt hat with stitched crown, Charles Batten £9.50; baggy leather boots, Chelsea Cobbler £32.50.
Let yourself loose in warm baggy dresses, tightly belted or billowing in the wind. Team them with boots and a long muffler and you’re set to face the breeziest day.
Hair by Mr Ricci at Ricci Burns.
Photographed by Graham Hughes.
Scanned from Honey, November 1974.
LEFT: Fine Jacqmar wool button-front vest-style dress with side-slit pockets, Bombacha £33, from Bombacha, 104 Fulham Road, SW3 (mail order 50p); Crocodile, New Bond Street, Wl; all branches of Miss Selfridge, Mirror Mirror Department. Soft leather side-buckled high-heeled ankle boots, Chelsea Cobbler £24.99. RIGHT: Rust wool crepe flared V-neck belted dress with stitched hem and sleeves, Wallis £13.95, from all branches of Wallis shops. Extra-long random knit silky rayon muffler, Eddie Yap for Howie, £9.50; sheer tights, Kunert 64p; leather ankle boots, models’ own.
Steel grey fine wool belted baggy dress with navy trimmed collar, buttons and initialled breast pocket, Wendy Dagworthy £30, from Ismat, Brompton Road, SW3; Bombacha, 104 Fulham Road, SW3 (mail order 50p); Transformer, Leeds. Silver and black soft leather high-heeled bar shoes, Russell & Bromley £18.99.
LEFT: Camel jacqmar wool shirt style loose dress with patch pockets, Bombacha £33, from Bombacha, 104 Fulham Road, SW3; Miss Selfridge, Mirror Mirror Dept, Duke Street, WI. Blue and rust scarf, Biba £2.40; green felt beanie, Charles Batten £8.50; brown leather ankle boots, Chelsea Cobbler £24.99. RIGHT: Tobacco brown wool hooded dress with tie neck, Wallis £15.95, from all branches of Wallis shops. Long rust scarf, Fenwick £4.75; silky checked scarf from a selection at Essences; tan leather boots, Chelsea Cobbler £32.50.
LEFT: Swirling wool crepe dress with yoke front and tie collar, Wallis £13.95, from all branches of Wallis shops. Two tone random knit fringed silky scarf, Eddie Yap for Howie £9.50; Art Deco printed crepe de chine scarf, Essences £2.00 felt hat with accordian pleated petersham trim, Diane Logan £8.50; leather knee-high boots, Russell & Bromley £29.99. RIGHT: Pure wool mid-calf-length baggy dress with openwork, satin-stitched sleeves and collar and coin-button fastening, Wendy Dagworthy £42, from Ismat, Brompton Road, SW3; Bombacha, 104 Fulham Road, SW3 (mail order 50p); Transformer, Leeds. Long silky fringed knit scarf, Eddie Yap for Howie £9.50; navy cotton kerchief, Herbert Johnson 60p; felt brimmed hat with flower painted appliqués, Diane Logan £10; baggy boots, Chelsea Cobbler £32.50.
Admittedly it takes a good eye, the sort that can look over a pile of old garments and see what you can make of them, and they of you. Then it needs a little adventure, to team old clothes with improbable but right accessories. It may also demand scissors and a needle and thread, but it’s the perfect way to beat imitation—and inflation.
Photographed by David Tack.
Scanned from Honey Magazine, November 1974.
I’m always delighted and fascinated by articles like this, somehow proving that certain interests are just innate in some people, and some things simply never change. Fifty years later, new generations are still discovering the joys of second hand clothes as though nobody ever thought of it before.
There was a storm in a Tiktok teacup earlier this year when someone declared that resellers were the Landlords of the Millennial generation. In what felt like a heady mix of inverted snobbery and undiluted envy at some people’s eye for a bargain, they declared second hand clothes were only for the poorest people and it was immoral to be making money out of them. In fact, I think it’s safe to say that it must be one of the oldest jobs in the world. In centuries gone by, the finest clothes were left in wills, given to servants, resold, remodelled and recycled until they were practically rags – which is why we have so little left in completely original condition.
On top of this long history, here in the Seventies (and then right up until the present day) you can see the glamourising of second hand clothes as a perfect counterbalance to the ever-expanding, and ever-cheapening, fashion industry. I also can’t help noticing that the belted sack dress (see further down) and bangle combination looks like something you might have seen in Topshop in the early 1980s. Proving that secondhand is often more fashion-forward than what you find in the shops.
A new look at dressing gowns: Soft cotton or silky wrapover dressing gowns can easily be found at jumble sales and markets. Fastened with a pretty brooch or with a scarf tied round the waist, they’re much nicer to wear around the house than that tatty old quilted thing your mum gave you! A bonus is that they can double as a dress or even a coat over jeans for the daytime. Paisley print robe £1, from Portobello Road Market. Painted bone fan with slotted blue ribbon, Chimera.
A little colour goes to your head: To follow the 20s,30s look which has become hot fashion for the evening, why not add a little glamour to a crocheted or knitted beret by sewing on tiny bugle beads (they’re the cylindrical ones). A geometric or floral design can look good—or a motif on one side if you haven’t got the patience to cover the whole of the beret. Antique beaded beret from a selection starting at about £10 from Carla Sklan at Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SW3.
The soft touch pulled into shape: Most of the prettiest second-hand dresses to be found have waist measurements which are really enormous and the idea of darting and reshaping them can offset the low price. To combat this we cut a strip from the hem about 3in wide, cut it in half width-wise and doubled it over to make two strips to tie round the back. Even easier would be to attach two narrow ribbon ties. Our dress from a selection at Orange Box, Camden Passage, N1.
Two for the top:Hats are still one of the most important accessories you can buy or make, and they look especially good if they’re bedecked with feathers or trimmings. If your purse demands you try your own hand at millinery, we’ve come up with an idea for trimming a plain felt beret. Just make two small incisions approximately one inch apart and add a natty trio of brightly coloured feathers. This smashing felt cloche with painted applique flowers and leaves is more of a good investment at £10 from Diane Logan, 40 Chiltern Street, WI.
Best suited: Ladies’ tailored suits abound for a mere pittance in most second-hand haunts and, if you accessorise them well, they can become the mainstay of your wardrobe. But nothing ruins the line of a tailored jacket more than out-of-shape shoulders. If you carefully unpick the lining around the armhole and search about, you’ll find it’s probably the fault of deflated shoulder pads. Buy a new pair of foam ones (from haberdashery departments of large stores); enclose each pad in a little square of plain fabric and it’s easy to tack them into place. Another idea to liven up a plain crepe jacket is to add some contrasting fabric on the pocket flaps or, if you have the patience, embroider your initials on a breast pocket. Authentic tweed costume courtesy of Mrs Kilford. Collarless green crêpe embroidered jacket, Orange Box £4.50. Feather-trimmed felt hat, to hire from Diane Logan ; long crêpe-de-chine patterned scarf, Essences £2: belt from a selection at Fenwick ; cane, Biba ; fox fur, Orange Box £4.50; green earrings and double bird brooch, Medusa’s Heirlooms. All Orange Box clothes from Camden Passage, 33 Islington Green, London N1.
Taking your nightie to a party: It doesn’t have to be a choice between a jewelled gown or your old jeans for a party. A long old-fashioned satin nightie is just about the prettiest and sexiest thing you could wear—and you won’t look too dressed up or contrived. And if you do get home late and tired you’re dressed for bed as well. Ankle-length cap-sleeved embroidered pink satin nightdress £5, from Bombacha, 104 Fulham Road, SW3.
Anything goes: To prove that even the most ordinary old dress can look bang up to date with just a little attention, we found this pleated black sack dress and re-vamped it. Pulled in at the waist with a wide red belt, with lots of red and black glass jewellery, black seamed stockings and your hair up, it soon becomes a show-stopper. Dress from a selection of oldies at Martha’s Market, Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1. All jewellery from Chimera, Antiquarius.
For the good sport in you: Smart dresses and feminine bits and pieces are easier to find than casual sporty outfits, but here’s one solution to show the tomboy in you, and it’s a great way to use that too-big sweater or cardigan you’ve discovered. Team it with striped cut-off men’s summer trousers and a shirt or blouse and flat shoes—the whole outfit could easily cost you less than a fiver. For a more feminine touch, appliqu6—or even sexier, inset—your own lace motif on a blouse. You can buy one at a haberdashery store or cut out a bit of lace from an old petticoat. Hip-length baggy hand-knitted cardigan £1, striped cotton men’s shorts 50p, both from Portobello Road Market. Short-sleeved cream lace-inset Rayon blouse, Essences £3.50. Thin red leather and hessian belt, Fenwick. Huge perspex initial, Mid Twentieth Century at Antiquarius. See-through plastic tube bracelets, £1.50 each from Reflection and Light at Antiquarius. Socks and shoes, model’s own.
Two for the price of one: Above and below : Along with casual clothes, skirts are about the most difficult things to buy secondhand. Here’s a way to solve the problem and gain a matching blouse and skirt from a dress. First remove the side zip (if there is one), then carefully unpick the waist seam. Run a row of gathering round the top about 4″ in, then gently ease it up to fit your waist measurement plus 2″. Attach a strip of petersham about 14″ wide to the outside edge, turn in and finish off the side opening. For the blouse, turn up 1″ of the bottom edge, and thread with a narrow strip of elastic. Yellow and black floral-printed cotton dress, Portobello Road Market £1. Floppy cream silky blouse with elasticated waist and lace-trimmed collar and insets, shown with skirt, £3.50 from The Orange Box, Camden Passage, 33 Islington Green, London NI. Bangles and necklace from a selection at Chimera ; earrings from Medusa’s Heirlooms.
Tighten up: Baggy blouses and shirts may be the most fashionable shape but sometimes it’s nice to show your waist—and with this idea you don’t have to worry about endlessly tucking slippery material back into the waistband of your skirt or trousers. Gather the waist with two rows of shirring elastic, machined close together, remembering to sew a little lower than your actual waistline as the blouse will ride up a bit once it’s gathered. Our candy-striped cotton blouse is from the Portobello Road Market, 60p.
Multi-coloured lurex hat, by Missoni from Browns, £10. Exclusive black silk chiffon top, made to order at Tsaritsar. Knife pleated purple satin skirt from Alkasura, £10. Circular peacock fan from a selection at Essences.
Bright skirts and tops make it easy to dazzle this Christmas. Wear shiny accessories, flourish a peacock fan, add a lurex scarf. Outshine the twinkling fairy lights and sparkling decorations! Bright skirts and tops make it easy to dazzle this Christmas. Wear shiny accessories, flourish a peacock fan, add a lurex scarf. Outshine the twinkling fairy lights and sparkling decorations!
One of the most incomparably beautiful editorials I have had the pleasure of scanning, with a little insight into the ‘vintage’ market of the early Seventies (most of the sequined pieces appear to be original Twenties and Thirties from Essences, one of those places I would make a beeline for if I ever found that time machine). Also, glitter eyebrows. Swoon.
Model is Cathee Dahmen.
Photographed by David Anthony.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1973.
Net cap, with seed pearl trim, from a selection at Essences, £8.50. Green lurex halter neck by Crochetta, £6. Gold sequin bolero, from a selection at Essences, £15. Knife pleated gold taffeta skirt from Alkasura, £10. Green glitter evening bag from a selection at Essences, £12.50. Yellow shot lurex scarf by Bellino, 25p.
Sequin hat, with trim on side, from a selection at Essences, £8.50. Black and green lurex, heart shaped halter neck knee length ress and matching black and green lurex cardigan, by Gillian Richard, £12.95. Black lace gloves from a selection at Essences, £5.
White sequin hat, £8.50. Black sequin sleeveless top, £15. Both from a selection at Essences. Black velvet jacket, with silver stars embossed all over, made to order by Tsaritsar. Knife pleated silver skirt from Alkasura, £10.
Sequined skull cap and sequin bolero. Both from a selection at Essences.
Circular skirt, printed with leopard skin and roses, and matching sun top, from Miss Mouse, £18.95. Gold dancing shoes, from Gamba, £13. African necklaces, from a selection by Peter Adler, from £10. Bangles from a selection at Chimera from £2.50. Scarf, worn as a sun top, from a selection at Essences, from £2. Cotton leopard-skin printed shorts, by Miss Mouse, £5.95. Embossed leather stiletto shoes, with wooden heels, from a selection at Smith and Simpson, from £5. Drop earrings, from a selection at Chimera, from £1.50.
19 AND airJamaica GO DOWN -TOWN
Down-town Mo Bay is a riot of colour. Houses are made of wood and painted red, blue, green or yellow. There’s a different colour at every step, so a walk down any street is quite an experience. Then there’s the soul music which blasts out of every shop, so you’ve got to look cool. Hence our choice of fun clothes to catch the eye even with all that competition.
Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1974.
Green satin halter top, with red tulip print, £5.95. Matching gored skirt, £6.95. Both from Biba. Pink stiletto shoes, from a selection at Smith and Simpson, from £5. Green shawl, from Bombacha, £5.20. Bag from Biba, £1-95. Multi-coloured glass necklace, green glass necklace and green glass bracelet from a selection at Chimera. Brown and gold halter neck, with rust tulips, £5.95. Matching skirt, £6.95. Both from Biba. Gold dancing shoes, from Gamba, £13. Shawl from Bombacha, £5.20. Bag from Biba, £1.95. Long necklace and rust necklace from a selection by Adrien Mann. Blue glass necklace, from a selection at Chimera, from £2.50.
Palm-tree-print sun top, with matching skirt, from Strawberry Studio, £11.75. Wooden stiletto shoes, from a selection at Smith and Simpson at Antiquarius, from £5. Blue earrings, blue and cream necklace and gold bracelet, all from a selection at Chimera at Antiquarius. White sunglasses, from Bombacha, £.1.50. One-shoulder dress, in green crêpe with yellow floral print, from a selection at Van Der Fransen, £16. Straw wedge shoes, with painted flowers, from Dolcis, £5.99. Blue paisley-print scarf, from a selection at Essences, from £3. Green and yellow bangles, from a selection at Chimera at Antiquarius, from £3 each. Sunglasses from Bombacha, £2. Pink palm-tree-print sun top, with matching skirt, from Strawberry Studio. £13.75. Pink stiletto shoes.from a selection at Smith and Simpson at Antiquarius. from £5. Pink necklace, multi-coloured necklace, pink and clear bangles and pearl bracelet, all from a selection at Chimera at Antiquarius. Sunglasses from Bombacha. £2.
Yellow jungle print shirt, with cotton sleeves and collar in floral and seaside print, £5. Floral shorts, with patch pockets, £4-50. Both from a selection at Van Der Fransen. Gold strappy sandals, from Gamba, £2-54. Blue and white straw belt, from Biba, £4-70. Blue earrings from a selection at Chimera, from £1.50. Jungle print shirt, with crêpe de Chine floral print sleeves, £5. Matching crêpe de Chine shorts, with cotton pockets, £4-50. Both from a selection at Van Der Fransen. Gold flat dancing shoes, from Gamba, £2-54. Embroidered blue and red belt from a selection at Peaches at Antiquarius. Yellow, pink and green bangles, from Chimera, from £2.25.
White, red and black printed bra top, with matching skirt, with two pockets, by Strawberry Studio, £14. Leather shoes, with wooden stiletto heels, from a selection at Smith and Simpson, from £5. Multi-coloured glass necklace and blue plastic bangle, from a selection at Chimera. Sack bag, with cockerel printed on front, from Domidiom, 61p.
Button-through, seaside print shirt, by Miss Mouse, £7.95. Green, pink and blue button-through skirt, with side pockets, from Lily, £9.50. Green and black art deco belt, from a selection at Peaches at Antiquarius, from £6. Blue earrings and bracelet from a selection at Chimera. Seaside print shirt, by Miss Mouse, £7.95. Multi-coloured floral skirt, from Lily, £9.50. Scarf, in pocket, from a selection at Essences, from £2. Belt from a selection at Peaches at Antiquarius, from £6. Multi-coloured necklace and pink and blue floral bangles from a selection at Chimera.
Old Brighton sea-front print halter top, with matching skirt, by Ann Reeves, £13. Black snake-skin shoes, by Mary Graeme, £9.95. Scarf from a selection from Essences, from £2. Sack bag, with cockerel printed on front, from Domidiom, 61p. Earrings, multi-coloured glass necklace and bangles, from a selection at Chimera. Yellow floral cotton shirt, £6.95. Matching floral skirt, in blue, £8.95. Both from Stirling Cooper. Red snake-skin shoes, by Mary Graeme, £9.95. Sack bag, from Domidiom, 61p. Multi-coloured necklace, and clear perspex bangle, with flowers inset, from a selection by Adrien Mann. Small flower brooch, from a selection at Chimera, from £1.50.
Green cotton jersey t-shirt from Jean Junction. Floral print skirt from a selection at Van Der Fransen. Scarf around head from a selection at Biba.
You’re on holiday. It’s evening. You feel like dressing up, but staying casual. Something that’ll take you just anywhere. These skirts are ideal. Right for the beach. Perfect for a rendezvous.
(One of the models I believe is Uschi Obermaier.)
Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1973.
Silk head scarves from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Both tops and long skirt made with different fabrics, from Van Der Fransen.
Silk scarf from a selection at Essences. White lacy top by Erica Budd. Long cotton skirt by Janice Wainwright.
Silk scarf from a selection at Essences. Yellow t-shirt trimmed with plastic ring from Biba. Cotton floral skirt by Medusa. All jewellery from local markets in Kenya.
Black printed scarf from a selection at Essences. Black bra top by Erica Budd. Black cotton skirt with embroidered floral by Janice Wainwright.
Flower and net trimmed blocked felt perchers. Both may be hired and viewed at the Diane Logan Hat Museum Department, 40 Chiltern Street, W1. Lace umbrella to hire from Essences.
Add a touch of delicate, soft lace trimming to your clothes and accessories this summer for a really feminine, fragile look.
Hair by Colin at Ricci Burns.
Photographed by Roger Charity.
Scanned from Honey, May 1974.
Floor-length satin cross-over robe with fine lace trim and button-through neck, £12.50 from a selection of originals at Essences, 410 King’s Road, SW3.
Pin-striped cotton pouch hag with antique lace trim and pearl clasp, £5 from Rosie Nice, 12 Clifton Road, W9. Coffee nylon lace gloves with button trim, F G Shave approx 90p, from D H Evans.
Patchwork embroidery and lace, satin-lined cotton bag, £5 from Rosie Nice, 12 Clifton Road, W9.
Coffee and cream lace-trimmed loose blouse with tie-waist and ruched shoulders, matching square-neck top with shoestring straps, John Craig £8.50, from Just Looking, King’s Road, SW3 an branches ; Stop the Shop. King’s Road, SW3. Mother-of-pearl necklace, Butler & Wilson £5.50
Cotton gingham camisole top with broderie anglaise trim and long matching button-through flounced skirt, Jaki Ross at Jon Elliot £18.90, from Merle, 42 Thurloe Street, SW7 ; Jane Norman, 153 Oxford Street, WI , Super Star, Leeds; Quids In, Canterbury. China necklace, Rosie Nice 80p; carved rose bangle £1.25, Baggage & General at Peter Robinson.
Black string lace gloves with fine multi-coloured stripes £3.50, from a selection at Essences, 410 King’s Road, SW3. Black lace wide-brimmed hat with red rose, Diane Logan, £5, from Diane Logan, 40 Chiltern Street, W1.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Knitted silver lurex halterneck top by Erica Budd. Fox fur cape from Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Knitted silver lurex wrap over cardigan by Erica Budd. Fox muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Black and glass beaded pendant necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market.
Black and silver are this year’s popular Christmas colours. Sweaters are in silver lurex striped in black, black wool flecked with silver and endless other combinations. Shapes are halter-necks, dolmans, or little wrap-over cardigans – almost any shape will do. Accessories are bright and glittery. Add touches, like sticking sequins on your hats, and shoes, and you’re all set to outshine the fairylights.
Photographed by Christian Laroque.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1972.
What a year. It’s hard to summon up a great deal of enthusiasm for the Christmas we’re about to have, but I’m looking backwards to look forwards, as I often do. I still seem to find joy and solace in art and aesthetics and I hope my posts have given you the odd moment of enjoyment and inspiration this year. Thank you for your support and to everyone who has bought vintage from me or liked/shared/commented on my blog and Instagram posts. Sending you my love and best wishes for a better year ahead.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Wool halterneck sweater with thin silver lurex stripes by John Craig. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Silver lurex sweater with thin black stripes by Marshall London. Fox fur muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Christmas decorations from Woolworths.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Lurex cardigan with long sleeves from Biba. Long black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Black and silver lurex striped sweater from Biba. Black satin Oxford bags by Richard Green. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Fox muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Green wool lurex flecked sweater from Universal Witness. Black satin skirt by Mushroom. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Glass and amber dress clip from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Charcoal grey lurex sweater with heart-shaped neck and lurex trims by John Craig. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Black, gold and silver striped lurex sweater by Crochetta. Black satin skirt by Mushroom. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Long yellow chiffon scarf from a selection at Essences. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Black angora halterneck sweater, striped with silver lurex, by Crochetta. Black sequin jacket from Essences at Antiquarius. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Gold shoes from Sacha. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros.
In this age of mass-production, finding clothes that have an individual look is becoming more and more difficult. But a few enterprising minds in London have got round the problem by buying old clothes, in beautiful prints that one doesn’t see these days, and remaking them in today’s styles. Though the styles are repeated, the materials are different and each garment is quite unique. If you don’t live in London, don’t despair. Look around for a clever seamstress who can copy the styles for you. Then, it’s a matter of combing jumble sales, or looking among granny’s cast-offs, for unusual prints. Don’t, however, cut up clothes in good condition. You’ll get a good price for these in London markets. And if you do come to London, go round the markets instead of the stores and boutiques – there’s a lot to be picked up!
An extraordinarily styled and photographed editorial featuring Van der Fransen, Emmerton and Lambert and Essences, all of whom were trailblazers in the world of vintage and recycled fashion.
This shoot also manages to answer two of my most frequently asked questions: what is your favourite editorial and what do you think the future of fashion will be. The former is probably a moveable feast, although this one is definitely up there with my other favourite, but the latter is still something I believe strongly. Especially in a post-pandemic landscape, I am not sure (and definitely hopeful) that we will ever see the same levels of mass production post-2020. Not for want of desire by the high street shops, but because people have maybe recognised that, actually, they don’t need armfuls of cheap synthetic, single-use garments. Perhaps the aesthetics and principles of these recyclers of the Sixties and Seventies will finally be adopted as our default? We could stop producing new clothes and fabrics right now and probably never reach the end of the piles of recyclable materials. And that’s not even taking wearable vintage garments into account. Do you feel your shopping habits have changed permanently?
Red wig by Robert at Ricci Burns.
Photographed by Christian Larroque.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1972.
Beautiful old sun dress in rayon crepe and silk from Van der Fransen. Tights and shoes from Biba.
Navy and white smock in various prints of rayon crepe and skirt both by Van der Fransen. Tights and shoes by Biba.
Intricate patchwork dress and long skirt from Emmerton and Lambert. Green tights and mauve shoes from Biba.
Jenny Kee of Emmerton and Lambert at Chelsea Antique Market, wearing a Chinese kimono and trousers from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Model wears a blouse made up of old scarves in satin and silk from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Gingham shoes from Biba. Photographed at The Terrace Cafe, Chelsea Antique Market.
Slinky cross cut dress in various printed crepes and crepes de Chine from Essences. Blue tights and mauve shoes both from Biba. Scarf from Essences.
Patchwork dress of old printed fabrics from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Tights and gingham shoes from Biba. Plastic dragonfly at neck from Susan Marsh.
Spotted two piece from Essences. Tights from Biba. Shoes from Sacha. Lovely old shawl from Essences.
Navy blue and white print smock with contrasting sleeves by MEE Designs. Jeans from Browns. Clogs by Sacha. Photographed at MEE Designs at Antiquarius.
White satin Twenties style dress by MEE Designs at Antiquarius. Tights and shoes from Biba.
Liz Eggleston 