Everything’s coming up roses

1970s, Adrian Mann, Barnetat, Bermona, City Lights, Conspiracy, Diane Logan, Electric Fittings, Habitat, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, jap, Joanna's Fleamarket, Joseph, kenzo, quorum, radley, Roy A. Giles, universal witness, Vintage Editorials

Rose-printed satin 30s tea gown, £12 from a selection at Joanna’s Fleamarket, Carnaby Street, W1.

Get ready for a gorgeous full-blown rosy. summer. Everything is covered in roses: long floaty `tea dresses’, short and sweet frocks, soft gathered blouses, crisp cotton shirts—roses are even screen-printed onto angora sweaters. In fact, there’s sure to be a rosy outlook ahead for everyone!

Photographed by Roy A. Giles.

Scanned from Honey, April 1973.

White and pink angora sweater, Radley £5.50, from Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3; all branches of Peter Robinson. Pendant, Adrien Mann 80p; embossed bangle, City Lights £3.50.

Soft faded red and yellow rose printed chiffon 1940s midi dress with gently pleated skirt £12, from a selection at Joanna’s Fleamarket, Carnaby Street, W1; natural straw floppy hat, Bermona, .11.50; speckled glass bead necklace, 75p; plastic rose carved bangle, 30p; wide plastic bangle, 45p; all by Paul Stephens.

Old fashioned sweet pea and rose Liberty-printed cotton shirt, Universal Witness £8.95, from Universal Witness, Fulham Road, SW3; Lord John, King’s Road, London SW3 (mail order 20p extra). Straw and organza panama hat with rose trimming, Barnetat £3.30. Plastic bangle. Paul Stephens 30p.

Scatterd with roses, cotton puff-sleeved overblouse with tie waist and gathered yoke, Jap at Joseph £12 approx, from Joseph, 33b King’s Road, SW3 (mail order 25p extra). Straw bowler, Diane Logan, £6, decorated with flowers from a selection at John Lewis; carved rose plastic bangle, Paul Stephens 30p.

Exotic sugar pink, cream and green rose-printed puff-sleeve cotton-lawn blouse and gathered Oxford bags, Electric Fittings £16 approx, from Conspiracy, Kensington High Street, W8 (mail order 25p). Natural straw hat, Bermona £1.50; perspex and rose embossed bangle, City Lights £2.75; fan, Habitat 15p.

Bottoms Up

1970s, alistair cowin, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, Big Scene, Dorothy Perkins, gillian richard, gladrags, Guy Cross, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Jacqmar, Miss Impact, ossie clark, radley, ravel, Rodger Bass, Russell & Bromley, Shelana, Titfers, Toto, Vintage Editorials

Deep purple Polyester button-through romper suit, Dorothy Perkins, £3.95 (79s.); rust and blue rose patterned cotton mixture vest, Toto, £6.25 (£6 5s.); purple panne velvet plumed cloche, Titfers, £8. / Pillar-box red cotton jersey and Vincel dungarees, trimmed with yellow, £7, and bright sun-shine high-necked shirt, £5, both by Alistair Cowin. / Brick and rust moon-in-orbit sweater, Toto, £4.50 (£4 10s.); calico midi skirt with coloured nursery print border, Alistair Cowin, £8; beige suede ankle strap shoes, Ravel, £3.99 (£,3 19s. 9d.); dolls’ house patterned cloche, Titfers, £1.75 (35s.). / Scarlet jersey pinafore dress with yellow appliqued apples, Rodger Bass, £9.50 (£9 10s.); tangerine, blue and purple striped sweater, Miss Impact, £4.20 (4 gns.). / Dusty pink Acrylic jacquard jacket, £5.25 (5 gns.), and matching gauchos, £3.50 (£3 10s.), both by Gillian Richard; red panne velvet Wee Willie Winkle hat, trimmed with an apple, Titfers, £4.20 (4 gns.).

At last we’ve reached the bottom – the latest erogenous zone to be limelighted by shiny shorts, skin-tight jumpsuits and all kinds of sexy bum-huggers.

Interesting to note the dual pricing as the UK adjusted to decimalisation, and also that the Radley outfit in the photo below is actually an Ossie Clark design (I’ve seen it pop up with the Ossie for Radley label) but wasn’t properly credited as such.

Photographed by Guy Cross.

Scanned from Honey, March 1971.

Navy and scarlet polka dot cotton boiler suit, Alistair Cowin, about £4; plain pink suede boots, Biba, £8.97½ (£8 19s. 6d.). / Shiny pink cotton satin dungaree shorts, £6.50 (£6 10s.), and multi-coloured cotton nightsky printed shirt with drawstring neck, £9, both by Gladrags; sheer pink tights, Twiggy, £1; wine wedge-heeled shoes, Russell & Bromley; purple silk headscarf, Jacqmar, £2.37½ (47s. 6d.). / Slippery royal blue satin acetate shorts with bib top and scarlet satin patch pockets, Shelana, `£5.25 (5 gns.); red and blue running vest, Syndica, £3.15 (3 gns.); shiny pink tights, Twiggy, £1; wine suede wedge-heeled shoes, Russell & Bromley; burgundy silk scarf, Jacqmar, £2.37½ (47s. 6d.). / Ritzy yellow moss crêpe fitted jacket and black skirt with red, yellow and black inverted pleats, Radley, £14; black peep toe shoes, £4.99 (99s. 9d.). / Lilac and grape shady lady printed jersey pinafore with lilac shirt top, Big Scene, £8; maroon leather criss-cross sandals, Ravel, £5.97½ (£5 19s. 6d.).

Coats of Many Colours

1970s, Afghanistan, Boutiques, Eva Sereny, Inspirational Images, Margaret Kimber, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, Shakira Caine, Stock, Vintage Editorials

The fabrics, the hand embroideries, the ornate but cheap jewels and the colourful clothes which seem so exotic in Western eyes are accepted as ordinary and everyday in Afghanistan; but it takes sophisticated know-how to appreciate and capitalise on the exquisite workmanship involved. Their shaggy coats, sold over here by the thousand, are bargains, especially when you consider how much warm cloth coats cost nowadays, and even though the Afghans have still to perfect a way of treating the skins to stop them smelling. They undersell their goods, having little idea of what they are fetching overseas, and they have no set sizing system. In other words, to make their fashion industry commercially viable it needs organisation and expertise. Margaret Kimber, an English girl who recently spent 18 months in Kabul, proved in a small way that this can be done. She turned her home into a workshop, bought bales of fabric, employed local labour to make up her designs and returned with the clothes shown on these pages. We photographed them in Paris on Shakira Caine, a flawless Indian beauty from Guyana, a former Miss World contestant now married to actor Michael Caine. A model before her marriage, she was the sexy girl in the television coffee-bean ad. A selection of these dresses, all different, ranging in price from £28 to £40, as well as jewellery (examples of these are shown on the cover), are available from Stock, 236 Fulham Road, London SW10, and at 131 High Holborn, WC1. Some of them are shown on these pages. The cushions and wall-hangings are from Mohanjeet, 21 Rue Saint-Sulpice, Paris 6.

By Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, 17th March 1974.

A Legacy of Lace

1970s, art deco, Deco Inspired, Inspirational Images, janet reger, Linda Dagenais, meriel mccooey, Meriel McCooey, Sarah Moon, sunday times magazine, Vintage Editorials

Long beige slip in lace and crepe, £19.50; soft-lined crepe bra, £5.40.

It is not often that they auction old knickers at Christies, but earlier this year the celebrated wardrobe of Heather Firbank went under the hammer, and an integral part of the collection was her exquisite underwear. Heather Firbank, sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank, was famous for her unique, occasionally eccentric clothes, and though most of them now belong to the Victoria and Albert Museum, the highest bid for the underclothes came from the lingerie manufacturer Janet Reger and her husband Peter. They made copies of the pieces they bought, and tomorrow they will be on sale from Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W.2, and by mail order. They are expensive, certainly, but unfortunately the luxury of Twenties underwear no longer comes at Twenties prices. All accessories are from Maria Cavallo‘s shop Dignetts, at Antiquarius, King’s Road, London S.W.3.

Model is Linda Dagenais.

Words and styling by Meriel McCooey.

Photographed by Sarah Moon.

Scanned from Sunday Times Magazine, November 17th 1974.

Black lace slip, £19-50; black lace camisole top, £28.50

Original cami-knickers from Heather Firbank collection (also shown on cover). The seam-for-seam copy costs £19-50.

Just A Little Something I Ran Up Myself…

1970s, Ace, bill gibb, Clio Goldsmith, cosmopolitan, Gamba, Inspirational Images, Jane Cattlin, liberty, liberty's, manolo blahnik, Midas, Peter Golding, Russell & Bromley, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, Terence Donovan, Vintage Editorials, Wendy Dagworthy, Yuki, yvonne gold, zandra rhodes, zapata

DESIGNED BY YUKI . . . and typical of the elegant raciness that Yuki breathes into everything he creates, a sultry bloomer dress to wear if you dare and if you’ve got the shape. Make it from a 1.5 metre square of cotton jersey. Simply cut two holes for your legs in the centre, step inside and tie the corners on your shoulders. Fake lily, Novelty Imports. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.

. . . with the aid of Yuki, Sheilagh Brown, Wendy Dagworthy, Sheridan Barnett, Bill Gibb, Jane Cattlin, Zandra Rhodes and Peter Golding, eight top designers who were each persuaded to whip up a creation for when you still haven’t got a thing to wear.

Hair by Harambee, 19 Avery Row, London W1.

Make-up by Yvonne Gold.

Persian carpets from Liberty.

I think one of the models is Clio Goldsmith.

Photographed by Terence Donovan.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1978.

DESIGNED BY SHEILAGH BROWN … who goes the whole way with glamour, whipping silk and lace and ribbons into deliciously pretty confections. Here she transforms a 2.25 metre length of soft lace into beautiful balloon trousers gathered twice on ribbon drawstrings. A square of silk crepe de Chine, slashed in the middle for a sliding neckline, ties at the front with wide black satin ribbon. Silver sandals, £24.95, Midas.

DESIGNED BY WENDY DAGWORTHY … the designer who makes sporty Viyella and rough tweeds look soft. Sunray-pleated cotton—hunt for the ready-pleated kind—is cut to make a piecrust collar that’s prettily tied with trailing velvet ribbon, on a poncho top belted like a tunic over a matching skirt. The skirt is one width of fabric gathered on a cord at the waist. Fringe the edges of toning check fabric to make the shawl. Boots, £44.99, Russell & Bromley.

DESIGNED BY SHERIDAN BARNETT who knows how to put together the luxury of velvet and lace in the new romantic style. Sheridan Barnett’s big cosy chasuble is made by folding in half a 2.5 metre length of velvet and cutting a straight line in the centre for the neckline. Tuck under the sides and wrap. closed at the waist with glossy black moire. Knot a fichu of black lace at your throat. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Patent ballet pumps, £11.50, Gamba.

DESIGNED BY BILL GIBB . . . who creates like no other designer. Here’s a little numero (main picture) from Bill’s sketch-pad that’s four straight pieces of jersey and need be only as expensive as the fabric you choose. Cut four 120 X 90cm oblongs of fabric—Bill picked soft ice-cream shades in Qiana jersey. Overlock the edges and run a ribbon drawstring through one short end of each piece. Two oblongs gathered up and tied on each shoulder make the back and front of the dress. The remaining two pieces, gathered in tightly to wrists and draped over your shoulders, make a floaty jacket that can be knotted back and front. Soft gold leather straps are Bill Gibb’s newest accessory. Gold sandals, £24.95, Midas.

DESIGNED BY JANE CATTLIN Sew one short seam in an oval of silky jersey and you’ll have added a glamorous Jane Cattlin creation to your wardrobe. Jane makes it sound as simple as that, though the result looks like the ritziest evening gown in town. Jewellery, Adrien Mann. Gold leather shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.

DESIGNED BY ZANDRA RHODES .. and called Conceptual Chic by Zandra. For her New Wave look, drop a sliver of shocking pink jersey on top of a plain black T-shirt dress. First cut several jagged slashes in a 105 x 114cm oblong jersey, making two of the cuts big enough for armholes. Overlock the edges and decorate with spangles and safety pins, preferably jewelled. Tie bright satin rouleaux around your neck. Stitch pearl or diamante beads on to plain safety pins or buy one of Zandra’s rolls of pins ready-jewelled from her shop at 14a Grafton Street, London W1. At £10, they’re the punk status symbol! Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata.

DESIGNED BY PETER GOLDING … whose rhinestone-studded jeans, spangled T-shirts and satin waistcoats glint and gleam in his shop, Ace. If you’re star-struck but can’t afford the glittering trappings or spare the time to stitch sequins on your jeans here’s Peter Golding’s tip. Hang your Christms-tree decorations on to ponchos of sheer black lace, add a few stick-on silvery stars and moons, fasten your Lurex sotckings with silver suspenders, shake your feathers and enjoy yourself! The mirrored belt is made by pasting handbag-size mirrors on to any plain belt. Shoes, £40, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Lurex stockings, Mary Quant, £1.60.

Prima Donnas

19 magazine, 1970s, Adrian Mann, anello and davide, ballet russes, Charles Grahame, cornucopia, Inspirational Images, james wedge, Kirsty Klimo, nostalgia, quorum, sheridan barnett, strawberry studio, Vintage Editorials

Gold fabric, wrapped round head, from Cornucopia, from £4.50. Striped blouse, £25. Striped skirt, £14. Pants, with large spots and stars, £20. All by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. All costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft, from £1. Sequins on head from any haberdashery department.

With the aid of a ballet dancer and delicately hand-coloured pictures, we stepped into the magical world of Russian ballet. recapturing the ethereal beauty and charm of ballet at its greatest … a world so unreal and yet so pleasing to recreate for a special occasion.

Make-up by Kirsty Klimo.

Photographed by James Wedge.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1975.

Scarves round head. from Cornucopia. from £1.50. Satin pyjamas. with marabou trim. by Charles Grahame. £35. Pink embroidered waistcoat, £9. Painted net petticoat. £5. Both from Nostalgia. Satin ballet pumps. by Anello And Davide. £2.70. Heavy beaded belt, from The Warehouse. £22.50. All costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft from £1. Plume and ribbons used to tie bottoms of pants from any haberdashery department.

Large piece of gold fabric round head, from Cornucopia. from £4.50. Red chiffon layered dress, with red petticoat (sequin-tied to form harem pants), by Sheridan Barnett, £100. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. Long, multi-coloured chiffon stole, from Cornucopia. from £20. Ribbon round head and ropes of sequins tied round dress bottom from any haberdashery department. Beads round wrist, from Adrien Mann from £1.

Sequin cap, from Cornucopia. from £8. Green top, £9.95. Harem pants. £12.95. Both by Strawberry Studio. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. Striped chiffon scarf. from £2.50. Multi-coloured tasselled silk scarf. from £8. Both from Cornucopia. Gold lacy scarf, tied round arm, from Nostalgia. from £4. Costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft. from £1.

Christmas party pieces for dazzlers

19 magazine, 1970s, alkasura, Bellini, Cathee Dahmen, Crochetta, David Anthony, Essences, Essenses, gillian richard, missoni, Tsaritsa, Vintage Editorials

Multi-coloured lurex hat, by Missoni from Browns, £10. Exclusive black silk chiffon top, made to order at Tsaritsar. Knife pleated purple satin skirt from Alkasura, £10. Circular peacock fan from a selection at Essences.

Bright skirts and tops make it easy to dazzle this Christmas. Wear shiny accessories, flourish a peacock fan, add a lurex scarf. Outshine the twinkling fairy lights and sparkling decorations! Bright skirts and tops make it easy to dazzle this Christmas. Wear shiny accessories, flourish a peacock fan, add a lurex scarf. Outshine the twinkling fairy lights and sparkling decorations!

One of the most incomparably beautiful editorials I have had the pleasure of scanning, with a little insight into the ‘vintage’ market of the early Seventies (most of the sequined pieces appear to be original Twenties and Thirties from Essences, one of those places I would make a beeline for if I ever found that time machine). Also, glitter eyebrows. Swoon.

Model is Cathee Dahmen.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1973.

Net cap, with seed pearl trim, from a selection at Essences, £8.50. Green lurex halter neck by Crochetta, £6. Gold sequin bolero, from a selection at Essences, £15. Knife pleated gold taffeta skirt from Alkasura, £10. Green glitter evening bag from a selection at Essences, £12.50. Yellow shot lurex scarf by Bellino, 25p.

Sequin hat, with trim on side, from a selection at Essences, £8.50. Black and green lurex, heart shaped halter neck knee length ress and matching black and green lurex cardigan, by Gillian Richard, £12.95. Black lace gloves from a selection at Essences, £5.

White sequin hat, £8.50. Black sequin sleeveless top, £15. Both from a selection at Essences. Black velvet jacket, with silver stars embossed all over, made to order by Tsaritsar. Knife pleated silver skirt from Alkasura, £10.

Sequined skull cap and sequin bolero. Both from a selection at Essences.

Soft and Pretty

1970s, biba, clobber, David Finch, Dolcis, Feathers, gillian richard, Inspirational Images, petticoat magazine, Pourelle, ravel, Rosie Nice, Sacha, Sue Hone, Vintage Editorials

Gillian Richard dress, £17.10s., Miss Selfridge, W.1. Biba tights, 10s.6d. Biba choker, £1.2s. Ravel shoes, £6.19s. 11d.

Softly, softly, ever so gently, it’s velvet— printed! It’s as pretty as a picture—so cling to it

Styling by Sue Hone.

Photographed by David Finch.

Scanned from Petticoat Magazine, 3rd October 1970.

Pourelle midi with laced-front jacket, 131.10s., Fifth Avenue shops, Quant tights, 15s.11d. Biba butterfly, Dolcis shoes, £4.19s.11d. Pourelle short-sleeved top and skirt, £21., Fifth Avenue, W.1. Biba tights, 10s.6d., suede belt, £2.10s. Sacha shoes, £7.19s.6d. 36 Panne velvet is expensive we know — but worth it!

Knickerbockers with short-sleeved top, Pourelle, £18.18s., from Tracy, W.1., Biba canvas boots, £7.10s. Feathers cotton hat and scarf, £2.7s.6d. Clobber midi, £13.13s., Girl, W.1. Quant patterned tights, 16s.11d. Rosie Nice scarf, £1.15s. Browns ring, £3. 3s. Ravel spats, £5.5s.

19 and Biba are Back in Brown!

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, Vintage Editorials

Ankle-length brown linen coat and matching trousers, 10gns. Long narrow white silk scarf, 2gns. Brown leather shoes with a bar, £7 10s.

If you want to keep ahead in 1970 you will have something brown and white in your wardrobe. Biba and 19 put their heads together and chose -chocolate brown and stark white as the smartest colours for the spring. Teamed together they make a stunning combination—classic colours cut in that special Biba way to make a head-turning impact. For those in need of something a little bit special to wear at night, take a good look at Biba’s super long satin coat in liquid chocolate brown — designed to be worn over trousers, a dress or just by itself. It’s well worth the money if you go out often enough to warrant an evening coat. Biba goes long again for the spring with a feeling reminiscent of the early 1900s when ladies wore ankle-length skirts,. large picture hats with feathers, plumes and lots of net. We’re in favour of 1970 being a romantic year, and if you agree with us, then Biba’s the shop for you —124-126 Kensington High Street, London, W.8.

Wonderful not only to see Peccinotti’s beautiful photos of Barbara’s beautiful clothes, but a rare and special insight into the lesser-seen Biba number 3 in Kensington High Street (post-Church Street and pre-Derry and Toms). I’m not sure this will ever stop being one of my favourite aesthetics.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, March 1970.

Brown satin evening coat, 12gns. Brown leather bar shoes, £7 10s. Choker, 30s. Scarf from their selection. Veiling, 3s.11d. a yard.

Brown/white Flanestra button-through dress, 6gns. Matching hat, 30s. Brown leather bar shoes, £7 10s. All prices are approximate.

Floor-length white crêpe coat with full sleeves, and matching trousers, 9gns. the set. White crêpe scarf from their selection.

Brown crêpe long fitted jacket with matching buttons, and wide-cut trousers, £5 19s.6d. Matching helmet, 30s. Spectacles, 32s.6d.

White linen suit with an ankle-length skirt, £7 10s. Matching hat, 30s. Beige fishnet tights, 14s.11d. Veiling over face, 3s.11d. a yard.

Brighten Up

19 magazine, 1970s, anello and davide, Anne Cossins, Dolcis, Feathers, Fenwick, Inspirational Images, John Stember, just looking, mr freedom, Pourelle, Rosie Nice, sally levison, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials

Red hat in soft felt, from Feathers, 40s. Short crossover woollen top with navy trim has short sleeves, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Plain black jersey midi skirt, by Stirling Cooper, 90s. Blue and red choker, from Fenwicks, 10s.

Beautiful and gay knits are 19’s answer for post-summer blues; dazzling bright and eye-catching in an array of primary colours. The styles are the simplest possible—tiny tops with cross-over fronts and, for those who prefer the classic, pullovers in cleverly co-ordinated stripes. This style of knitwear is best worn with toning jersey skirts, preferably in a midi length, and trousers. To complete the kaleidoscope look, add brightly coloured shoes, stockings, a scarf or a choker.

Photographed by John Stember.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1970.