Get Shirty

1970s, Adrian Mann, alice pollock, alkasura, Butler & Wilson, cacharel, che guevara, Dick Polak, Honey Magazine, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Joseph, marie france, quorum, Roger Nelson, stirling cooper, Susie Craker, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
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LEFT: Salmon pink crepe overblouse with short fluted sleeves, Marie France for Quorum £10 approx, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Wealk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3 ; Quorum shops at all branches of Peter Robinson. Satin trousers, Alkasura £6.50, ,from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Apricot beads £5, amber bangles from 20p each, wide yellow bangle £2, all from Emeline. RIGHT: Crêpe shirred blouse. with tie neck, Alice Pollock at.Quorum £10 approx, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3; Quorum shops at all branches of Peter Robinson. Green satin trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Jeff Banks Shop at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1; City Stylish, Newcastle. Gilt dress clips, Universal Witness from 25p each.

The season of the shirt. Wild and waisted. Smart, sharp and snappy. Crisp, cuffed sleeves for the new tight and tailored look. Soft and slinky overblouses to revive the romantic 40s.

The first picture has got to be one of my favourite fashion shots of all time. Such joy in movement, perfect lighting, and harmonious colours from the most heavenly Quorum clothes.

Photographed by Dick Polak.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, May 1973.

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LEFT: Crisp white crêpe pintucked overblouse £8.50, from all branches of Bus Stop (mail order 30p from 3 Kensington Church Street W8). Satin trousers, Alkasura £6.50, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3, Thin patent belt, Gay Designs 69p; sea green waist-length bead necklace £4.50, short green necklace £3, and art-deco bangles £2 each, all from a selection at Butler & Wilson. RIGHT: Neat cotton sports shirt with patch pockets, Cacharel at Joseph £8.50, from Joseph, 33b King’s Road, SW3 (mail order 25p). White cotton trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 (mail order 25p) ; Jeff Banks shop at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1. Thin leather belt, Baggage Et General £1.10; plum plastic bangles, Adrien Mann 25p.

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LEFT: Finely striped cotton casual shirt, Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper £6.50, from Stirling Cooper, 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at DH Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1, Leeds, Norwich and Cardiff ; Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Gaberdine Oxford bags, Alkasura £9.50, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Long polka-dot scarf, Van der Fransen £1 ; wide amber bangle, Paul Stephens 25p; ebony clutch bangle, Adrien Mann £1 ; stretchy webbing belt, Gay Designs £4. RIGHT: Button-through striped cotton blouse with matching attached cravat and deep cuffed sleeves, Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper £7.50 (stockists as for shirt above). Cotton trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 (mail order 25p) ; Jeff Banks shop, Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus W1. Enamel dress clips, Universal Witness from 25p each; wavy webbing belt, Gay Designs £4; amder bangles, Emeline 20p each.

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LEFT Smartly striped square-necked. crepe-de-chine overblouse with set-in short sleeves, Suzy Craker at Roger Nelson £9.50, from Way In, Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1 (mail order 25p) Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 ; Crocodile, Kensington High Street, W8 and .branches. Lilac Trevira trousers, Jakie Ross at Jon Elliott £6.70, from D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; I Spy, Oxford Street, W1 ; Sidney. Smith, King’s Road, SW3; Hendersons, Liverpool. Elastic and leather belt from a selection at Escalade ; bangles, Emeline £2 each. RIGHT : Rainbow striped loose overblouse with sweetheart neckline and puff sleeves, Ian Batten at Siding Cooper 16.50, from Stirling Cooper, 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3; Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1, Leeds, Norwich and Cardiff ; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Gaberdine Oxford bags. Alkasura £8, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Lime green patent belt, Gay Designs 69p; long bobble beads, Paul Stephens, 85p.

Miners want you to be a painted lady

19 magazine, 1970s, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Miners, Vintage Adverts, Vivienne Lynn

miners vivienne lynn

Vivienne Lynn modelling for Miners make-up. Looks like she might be wearing Mr Freedom as well. Divine…

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 magazine, April 1972

Have Fun With Your Hair

1970s, Fenwick, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, jewellery, John Carter, leonard, miss selfridge, mr freedom, pablo and delia, petticoat magazine
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This feathered headdress by Pablo & Delia is exclusive to Leonards.

Get your hair all dressed up for Spring! Beauty girl Ann Morrow brings you the newest ideas for many a yer on the hair accessories scene. But no need to stop there all you want is a mop of hair and a little imagination to get a lot of head-turning effect.

Photographed by John Carter.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, May 1971.

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Severe little buns and topknots look good with a snood added. This one came from Fenwick, and we added a bunch of cherries by Mr Freedom.

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With this painted slide by Pablo and Delia, John at Leonard gave model Chrissie an oriental look. Her hair is drawn back tightly to show off the coloured streak attached to the slide.

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These coloured streaks look like a bird of paradise – mail order them each from Annie Russel, 398 Kings Road.

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A slide with a feather from Miss Selfridge. Match your eyes to your slide.

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Play about with different slides. We found these in Miss Selfridge – apples that look good enough to eat.

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Evening hair goes all glittery with a headband from Fenwick and a Fortes-style slide with a sparkle from Boots.

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Flowered print are big news, so put some in your hair too  This lovely spring bunch comes ready attached to a comb from Miss Selfridge.

Hang ’em on the wall

1970s, bill gibb, Carin Simon, Christine Martin, cosmopolitan, david bailey, Graham Watson, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Janni Goss, Kaffe Fassett, Oliver Hoare, Pip Rau, Razzmatazz, ritva

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Photographed by Carin Simon.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, March 1975.

Sarah Drummond talks to six talented people about their highly original hang-ups.

CHRISTINE MARTIN hangs shawls in her shop Razzmatazz (12 North End Rd, London W14, 01-603 0514) where she sells ‘Twenties and ‘Forties clothes, and also in her home. Both places are diminutive, but that doesn’t stop Christine from fanning shawls on walls, canopying them over lamp-shades, draping them as bed curtains. “I like shawls because they’re dramatic —but they can be overpowering, too; you must be careful. I like variety, which is why I change them about all the time. I like to make different moods. If someone comes to dinner for the second time, I’ll certainly swop the shawls about for them. I’ve never hung pictures—they’re too expensive. and too many other people hang them. My husband Christopher is an antique dealer specialising in icons so, of course. I hang them. I hang handbags sometimes. too.” Most of Christine’s shawl collection is nineteenth-century oriental, heavily embroidered, made in the East specifically for the European market, not to wear, but to cover pianos and tables. Christine also buys cut velvet shawls. “… and I’m just reaching the stage where if I really like something I don’t want to sell it.” Where do the Martins pick up their stock? “Oh anywhere, everywhere … we’re always tooting about in junk shops. I’ll pay up to £40 for a good shawl now I’ve got the bread.”

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KAFFE FASSETT makes needlepoint hangings of magical intricacy and originality. If you see a handsome bearded young man doing petit point on the tube. it’s bound to be Kaffe. His creative energy is astonishing: currently he is working on an exhibition of his paintings to be held in New York, designing knits for Bill Gibb (a job he’s ‘done gloriously for the last six years) and for Ritva. And he’s doing knitting and tapestry designs and patterns for Women’s Home Industries and Tapestry Bazaar—and designing the needlepoint hangings which are made at Weatherall Workshops (Coleford 2102) in Gloucestershire. The day I saw Kaffe. a half-finished jacket was hanging pinned to his studio wall, chrome pins keeping an outstretched arm in place next to the body of the jacket, the pattern infinitely more complex than any piece of marbled paper, all plummy earthy tones. “I’m working it on fourteen needles: it’s good to see the balance of the design, feel how it’s going, and seeing it unfinished spurs me on to continue.” Kaffe is relatively new to actual needlework, though he’s been designing tapestries for some time. “Pamela Harlech who writes for Vogue asked me to design some slippers for her, and they looked great stitched up. Suddenly I thought I’d have a go. I’d always imagined those tapestry chairs you see took a lifetime —I was amazed how easy and how quick needlework can be.” To prove his point, he designed and worked backs and seats for a set of three winged chairs. marvellously mysterious in misty shades of grey, blue and green, based on forests and corals. As we talked Kaffe was stitching a doll’s-house chair, another exquisite forest design, which would set you back £10. whereas a big scale wallhanging could cost up to £2,000. “I’ve always been terribly influenced by the Orient,” Kaffe says. “I can look at patterns on some rugs for hours. Scotland has influenced me, too: there’s an affinity between Scotland and the Orient somewhere.”

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JANNIE GOSS is an Australian model, who has lived for the last eight years in London with her architect husband, Ian, their eleven year old daughter. Mini, and a cat. Their flat in Camden Town is big and airy, with white walls. high ceilings and potted geraniums twelve feet tall. Jannie hangs her jewellery on the walls: the effect is bold and beautiful. It’s also highly practical. “The great thing about pinning up jewellery is that I can find it so easily—it’s not just for show: of course I wear the stuff, too. I used to keep my necklaces around a mirror, hopeless because everything became knotted. and you couldn’t get at it in a hurry …I like organised clutter—great areas of space, then areas of things; it makes dusting easier, too. And Ian and I are both keen on a functional as well as decorative environment. I move my jewellery about, to change the shapes and patterns they make, which is fun. I just use ordinary pins. the very long dressmaking ones—anything heavier, like a nail, would mark the walls. I’m a collector by nature, I was buying up Art Deco jewellery before it became fashionable, when it only cost a few bob. I’ve never bought from the antique market, but sometimes at Portobello Road and Oxfam shops; mostly I just nose about in junk shops and jumble sales. People say I’m clever at finding things but for every four looks, only once will You find a piece you really like and want to buy.

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OLIVER HOARE‘s house gives you the feeling you’re in the Middle East. You are surrounded by carpets—kelims, to be precise—a dazzling juxtaposition of highly organised patterns and colours. Divans, steps, floors, cushions and wall are all covered with oriental rugs. When people hear about it, they imagine that so many patterns and colours clash. They don’t,” says Oliver. He’s right: the rugs harmonise, like music, and one of the reasons is that all the kelims’ colours are vegetable dyes, so the tones are constant—lots of brick and all the earthy colours. Oliver used to work at Christie’s where he ran the carpet department, but this summer set up on his own to sell Islamic works of art to the Middle East. and Far Eastern objets to Europe and America. “I was brought up with carpets, my father bought masses in Constantinople in the ‘Twenties, and always hung them up. Although I wasn’t terribly interested, something about them had rubbed off on me, and when I went to Christie’s I was immediately put into the carpet department. I became fascinated. I like kelims best of all. These are flat woven rugs, which have always been made by tribes, and it’s a tradition that hasn’t been interfered with or commercialised.” Buying carpets of any kind in the Middle East is an immensely ritualistic business: potential buyers sit for hours in carpet shops sipping tiny cups of Turkish coffee and tea endlessly. Bargaining goes on all day. Although Oliver enjoys this ritual. his business methods are Western. His dealing life means he must travel constantly though he spends as much time as he can in Iran where his caravanserai, on the old silk route, has just been nationalised by the government. Kelim prices have shot up, particularly now that so many are going back to their countries of origin. “Five years ago. you used to buy the really good kelims for £30 or £40. Nowadays, the best are £1,000 or £2,000 —but you can find decorative kelims for between two and three hundred pounds.”

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GRAHAM WATSON makes bead curtains that swish exotic-ally as you pass through, like a ‘Twenties shimmy dress, beaded strands trailing in your hair and on your shoulders. His beads can depict your portrait. a fantasy landscape, cinema curtains, an old poster—whatever you want. The curtains are hung in doorways. on walls, around baths. Graham’s clients in-clude Chris Squire of the rock group Yes, photographer David Bailey, and film director Joe Losey. “I started off bead-work when I was at drama school . . . act-ing’s an overcrowded profession, and I found it demoralising,” Graham explains. “I saw a play on television one night, and in the background there was a beaded curtain that looked as though it had some-thing painted on it, I couldn’t quite see. But it intrigued me.” . . . To the extent that the very next day Graham started threading beads him-self. But beads are hard to find in England. and Graham traced the best bead sources to Germany (for wood) and Czechoslovakia (for glass). He declared himself a registered company, and went to work three years ago. “I still import the beads, but we dye most of the colours our-selves, otherwise you’re landed with all the shades you don’t want. I often mix glass and wooden beads, because glass alone is too heavy.” Currently, Graham is working on a huge black and silver portrait of Buster Keaton, and he’s planning a three-dimensional number. If you want a curtain made, and they cost around £120 (door size), you can reach Graham Watson at 13c Cunningham Place. London NW8 (01-286 0891).

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PIP RAU is hooked on folk tradition, on the embroideries, colours, prints and patterns of Central Asia and the Middle East. Home is like a bazaar, her shop like a souk where she sells dresses, waist-coats, robes, great pieces of faded cloth, incredibly bright embroideries. Her walls are jam-packed with treasures. and Pip’s body is covered with clothes of tribal designs, too. “I’d never put up pictures.” she says, “hangings do so much more for a room. They’re vibrant and vast and warm. Infinitely cheaper, too. I’ve been collecting ever since I can remember. I love markets. I lived in Israel for ten years. I was married to an Israeli. and travelled all over the Middle East. and now we’re separated I’ve come back to live in London.” So it seemed a natural move to open a shop (Rau Gallery, 36 Islington Green, London N1, 01-359 5337) selling all the things she loves, and it means she can justify her passion for travel. “I plan to go away three or four times a year to find stock,” she says. “My last trip took six weeks; I drove all through Eastern Europe, buying in Romania and Yugoslavia, and on to Turkey and Iran. and then Afghanistan. There are always difficulties at frontiers—you need all the invoices and endless bits of paper. Prices are going up and up. sources are drying up, too, as increasing numbers of people get interested. My customers are very mixed—specialist collectors, or people who fall in love with something. I don’t think clothes like these should ever be altered. Just buy what fits.” Pip hangs dresses and the lighter hangings with drawing pins, and uses tacks for anything heavier. Dresses can cost as much as £50 —an antique, hand-woven heavily embroidered Palestinian wedding dress, for example—and wallhangings vary enormously from small Persian cottons at £4 to kelims and Bokharas (large-scale embroideries on silk) at £230, or kelims for £400.

The Long, Lean Look: Smocking

1970s, flair magazine, Inspirational Images, jean varon, jim lee, john bates, Uncategorized
Smocking

Elegant full length dinner dress in champagne Trevira with a matching tie belt, the yoke and shoulders lavishly oversmocked in bright colours. By John Bates at Jean Varon, £23.

Photographed by Jim Lee.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Flair, February 1970

Clothes to Have a Fight In

1970s, Browns, chelsea cobbler, Elliott, Feathers, Foale and Tuffin, Inspirational Images, mansfield, Maxwell Croft, Pedro Garcia, Russell & Bromley, Saul Leiter, sonia rykiel, stirling cooper, Uncategorized, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials, way in
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Black gabardine raincoat by Foale and Tuffin. Black suede double strapped boots from Russell & Bromley. Rainbow striped sweater by Stirling Cooper.

Reasons why Vanity Fair is one of the best fashion magazines ever #29847: A fashion editorial inspired by a fighting couple, photographed by Saul Leiter…

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1971.

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Maroon jersey coat and plaid skirt by Stirling Cooper. Sweater by Sonia Rykiel for Browns. Boots by Elliott’s.

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Brown beige and orange flecked wool gauchos worn with thick brown shetland sweater, leather studded belt and appliqued bag all from Feathers. Cap from Way In.

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Brown and beige tweed suit with Borg trims by Mansfield. Floppy woolly hat from Browns. Brown suede shoes by Pedro Garcia for Jack Hinton.

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Midi skirt and matching muffler by Maxwell Croft. Brown polo necked sweater by Sonia Rykiel from Browns. Dark brown leather boots by Chelsea Cobbler.

Paint Your Own Conversation Piece

19 magazine, 1970s, Make-up, Vintage Adverts

evette - 19 - march 72

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, March 1972

The Folk Art Craze

1970s, christian dior, Dress Den, Frank Horvat, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Jorn Langberg, kensington market, vanity fair

The Folk Art Craze - Frank Horvat - Jan 71 b

Every designer is saying it loudly, clearly, boldly, prettily… the hand-made look is here. Maybe it started as a reaction against the badly-made, thrown-together, hotch-potched dolly era; maybe this reaction set the tide running for antique markets where painstaking workmanship could be picked up still; maybe it’s that elusive feeling in the air that a designer’s sensitive seismograph picks up and translates in his own distinctive handwriting. Whatever it is – it’s here.

Jorn Langberg of Christian Dior – London plots it out in warm brown velvet, got together with a brief, embroidered waistcoat and a deeply embroidered peasant skirt… at the other end of the scale the Dress Den at Kensington Antique Market tops a thick aubergine cotton skirt spilled with bright wool flowers with a scrap of bolero, pictorially embroidered over every centimetre of the scalloped front. If you’re skilled with a needle, have a good eye for colour and shape there’s no reason why you can’t put yourself ahead of the game. But this is a painstaking look, a one-off original look that can’t be tossed off in an evening by a hopeful but bodgy amateur needlewoman.

Both shirts by Jeff Banks; all accessories from Kensington Antique Market.

Fashion by Lorna Cattell.

Photographed by Frank Horvat.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1971.

The Folk Art Craze - Frank Horvat - Jan 71 a

Beautiful Things

1970s, charles jourdan, christian dior, harpers and queen, Harrods, janet reger, lingerie, mary quant, Paul Harris, underwear, Vintage Editorials
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Shorts in cream patterned satin with lace, by Funn.

At last, at last, British designers have realised that underwear is worn to be seen – and this season sees the prettiest, sexiest lingerie for some time. Nonsense undies are still with us – those barely-there bras, more supported than supportive, but shapelier ladies can now choose from a wide selection of really beautiful things.

Photographed by Paul Harris.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, November 1975.

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Bra and matching briefs in white lace from Harrods. Suspender belt by Courtenay.

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Lithe leotard and tights, both from Fenwick. Socks by Mary Quant. Hairnet from Medina.

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Film star petticoat and knickers by Janet Reger. Stockings by Funn. Flat dancing pumps by Charles Jourdan.

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Pale pink bra and French knickers by Dior at Fenwick. Stockings by Mary Quant. Powder puff from Harrods. Chair by Plia at Habitat.

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Slinky all-in-one set in lavender Lycra by Robin Alexis.

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Champagne petticoat by Mrs Hilton for Finewear.

Carry Your Bag?

1970s, Avril Gordon, bags, Bags, biba, erica budd, Inspirational Images, John Carter, John Craig, mr freedom, petticoat magazine, stop the shop, Sue Hone, Tillers, Tommy Roberts, Tony Alston, Wild Mustang Co., Xanthe leathers
carry your bag

From left to right: John Craig polo, £4.50., Just Looking, SW3. Felt clutch bag, Tillers, £4., Miss Selfridge and Way In, SW1. Satchel tote bag, Avril Gordon, £3.99., from Miss Selfridge shops. Striped polo, John Craig, £4., at “27”, SW3. Rainbow suede clutch bag, Biba, W8., £7.75., and knit hat, 75p. Fringed duffle bag, Xanthe Leather, £3.99., Girl, Wl. John Craig polo, £3., Girl. Leather and snake clutch bag, Bus Stop, W8., £4. Canvas bag with daisy trim, Xanthe Leather, £3.50 at Girl, Wl. Polo sweater with badges, Erica Budd, £2.90., Neatawear, Girl and Peter Robinson Top Shop, Wl. Bus Stop hat, £2.60. Bag in leather cowboy style, Wild Mustang, £9., to order, 30 Gt. Portland St, Wl., p&p inc. Custard Tart metal workman’s lunchbox, Mr Freedom, Kensington Church St., W8., £2.65. Ribby polo with stripes, John Craig, £4., at Stop The Shop, SW3. Knitting bag, Baggage and General, £2.90., Peter Robinson, Great Gear Trading Co., SW3. Leather shoulder bag with criss cross stitching, Girl, £6.99. Vest sweater, John Craig, £4.50., at Just Looking, SW3. Suede shoulder bag with badge and wings, £5.75., with matching hat, £4.75., by Tony Alston to order from 52, Sutherland Pl., W2, p&p inc. Canvas bag, Xanthe Leather, £3.25., Chelsea Girl, Mail order: 15, Perrins Lane, NW3 and 20p p&p.

Carry-alls in all shapes and sizes… patterned pouches to go pretty places, tough canvas (and tin!) toters for trains and towns and big squashy suede and leather shoulder bags for catching buses and boats and being busy.

I am particularly enamoured of the ‘Custard Tart’ workman’s lunchbox from Mr Freedom.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by John Carter

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, October 1971