Be Wilder Still

1960s, alice pollock, celia birtwell, Illustrations, ossie clark, petticoat magazine, quorum, Richard Evans

be wilder still

Ever been to bed in satin or gone to work in lizard, looked through chiffon or wore a cardigan to your knees? Well we haven’t either, but Grandmother might have. The Ossie Clark and Alice Pollock Autumn Collection was full of these new things from old. Quorum clothes have a habit of being way ahead of their competitors and you always have to pay for originality. Even if you can’t afford to buy there they point the way ahead so look hard. There were maxi-length tweed coats in pinks and greens, long suede suits with lizard insets. Skirts and trousers were long and flowing, blouses were in flouncy chiffon or giselle. There were butterfly dresses in flimsy chiffon, with streams of flowing scarves tied to the ankles or wrists. There was a mass of creamy satin made into long quilted coats or glamorous trouser suits. There were satin dressing gowns with matching pants and bra. Also flowing crêpe suits with satin trimmings, tight-knitted jumpers flecked with stripes of bright colours. And more and more….

Sadly some of the prices were wild too but the ideas are yours for the copying.

A perfect example of why the demise of the illustrated fashion editorial was so unjust.

Words by Sue Hone. Illustrated by Richard Evans.

Scanned from Petticoat, November 1968.

Crêperie

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bata, Boobs, bus stop, celia birtwell, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Linda Warren, manolo blahnik, mary quant, moss crepe, ossie clark, quorum, radley, ravel, Rose Bradford, Roy A. Giles, Uncategorized, universal witness, Vintage Editorials, zapata
creperie1

Poppy field morocaine dress with drawstring neck by Ossie Clark for Radley. Plaited suede sandals by Bata.

Flirty little crêpe dresses so irresistibly feminine you’ll never be alone for long.

Anyone who knows me at all will know that *I* cannot resist crêpe, never mind what a fella thinks. This is a stunning editorial, with a model I’m not sure I recognise from anywhere else – so do comment if you can identify her. Featuring two covetable dresses by Ossie Clark but also featuring two by the mysterious ‘Boobs’ boutique label (by designer Linda Warren). I have found mention of a ‘Boobs’ boutique in Edinburgh, but I think it might just be coincidence. Again, holler if you know anything!

Photographed by Roy A. Giles.

Scanned from Honey, November 1971.

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Daring slash necked lemon and lime striped Dicel crêpe dress with paste brooch by Linda Warren at Boobs. Suede plaited shoes by Bata. Tights by Mary Quant.

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Chocolate brown Dicel crêpe dress with wide accordian pleated sleeves gathered into deep buttoned cuffs by Linda Warren for Boobs. Scarlet and black scalloped shoes by Ravel. Red art deco compact from Universal Witness.

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Skimpy jet black halter neck bonded moss crêpe dress with pink and black polka dot fluted bolero jacket by Rosy Bradford for Quorum. Scarlet glacé leather peep toe shoes from Zapata. Flocked red cherries by Adrien Mann.

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Button-through bow-scattered gently flaring crêpe dress from Bus Stop. Black sude sandals by Bata.

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Slippery satin dress with palm tree printed bodice by Ossie Clark for Radley. Scarlet leather peep toe shoes by Zapata.

Where have all the flowers gone?

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bermona, biba, crowthers, florrie carr, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Richard Selby, Sacha, Sacha, Vintage Editorials
where have all the flowers gone 1

Blooming red peonies on a navy rayon georgette dress, Florrie Carr. Flower trimmed straw hat, Crowthers. Shoes, Sacha. Rose print crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Straw hat, Bermona. Shoes, Sacha.

…To the seaside, where they’re blossoming out all over flimsy crêpe de chine summer dresses. So, if like most of us, you’re searching the shops for cool holiday clothes, now is the time to take your pick from our bunch.

Photographed by Richard Selby.

Scanned from Honey, August 1971

where have all the flowers gone 3

Fruit and flower crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Orange suede cork soled shoes, Sacha. Pastel tulip printed crêpe de chine skirt and matching blouse, Crowthers. Criss cross suede shoes, Crowthers. Plastic and raffia choker, Adrien Mann.

where have all the flowers gone 2

Swirling sunflower print dress in cinnamon and cream, Biba. White raffia sunhat, Herbert Johnson. Blue and white daisy patterned crêpe de chine dress, Ossie Clark for Radley. Burgundy straw hat, Biba.

Christmas Colours

19 magazine, 1960s, anello and davide, biba, Feathers, gladrags, gordon king, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, liberty, mr freedom, ossie clark, Pourelle, quorum, ritva, Sacha, Sacha, simon massey, Stephen Bobroff, Sujon, Tommy Roberts, Tony Berkeley, Tony Berkley, Vintage Editorials, wallis
Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 1

Calf length New York skyline-printed crepe dress with deep neckline, narrow fitting sleeves and wide sash tied at the back. The same dress with wide bell shaped over sleeves. Both from Mr Freedom. Rings from Biba.

The look for Christmas is definitely one of bright colours and generally good cheer. Fabrics are crepes, satins and velvets in stained glass hues of rich reds, blues, greens, yellows and purples…

Photographed by Stephen Bobroff.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, December 1969.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 7

Long crepe kaftan style dress by Mr Freedom. Red chiffon scarf by Fenwicks. Yellow and black crepe trouser suit by Mr Freedom. Red leather boots from Sacha. Black crochet cap by Ritva at Feathers.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 2

Ankle length satin dress over printed in mauve with floppy bell shaped sleeves and long matching scarf by Pourelle. Purple crepe calf length dress with narrow fitting sleeves, lace up neckline and wide cape style collar by Ossie Clark for Quorum. Boots by Sacha.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 3

Purple narrow fitting t-shirt. Ankle length crushed velvet skirt in pink with purple velvet waistband. Both by Mr Freedom. Purple leather boots by Anello & Davide. Cardigan style dress in dark blue velvet splashed with yellow and red by Gordon King. Bright red crepe ankle length skirt by Ossie Clark for Quorum.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 4

Pale pink acetate jersey ankle length skirt and v-shaped bra top with narrow straps crossing over at back by Wallis. Black crochet cap by Ritva at Feathers. Pale green crepe ankle length skirt with matching front lacing bra top by Tony Berkeley.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 5

Long tapestry coat by Janice Wainwright at Simon Massey. Bright green narrow t-shirt by Mr Freedom. Pale pink damask narrow-fitting long coat by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Silk scarves from Biba.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 6

Ankle length zip fronted cafe crepe dress has softly gathered deep yoke by Tony Berkeley. Red, blue and yellow scarf by Sujon. Ankle length soft pink crepe dress by Tony Berkeley. Long printed Indian scarf from Feathers.

Christmas Colours - Stephen Bobroff - 19 Dec 69 - 8

Bolero top and mid-calf skirt by Simon Jeffrey. Ankle length dress in pure Liberty wool and matching bolero by Gladrags. Red mid calf boots by Anello and Davide.

Take a long look

1960s, bus stop, david hurn, Elgee, Inspirational Images, John Craig, kleptomania, lee bender, ossie clark, petticoat magazine, quorum, ravel, Sacha, Sacha, stop the shop, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, wallis
take a long look 3

Long blue coat, £25 4s. by Ossie Clark at Quorum, S.W.3. Scarf by Liberty, £3 19s. 6d. White boots by Sacha, £7 7s. Flowery print dress, £10 10s,, by Kleptomania, S.W.3. Blue boots by Sacha, £7 7s. Corocraft beads, £1 12s. 6d.

How far are you dropping your hem this season? Variations on the theme fall from just below the knee to maxi. Coolest long-liners come soft on jersey, hot on tweed, close and clingy in crepe and warm in wool and fur…

Photographed by David Hurn.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, October 1969.

take a long look 1

Blue button-front long dress, £8 Ss. from main Wallis Shops. Beige long-sleeved shirt, £3 13s. 6d., turquoise coat, £13 13s., long black skirt, £5 Ss. all from Bus Stop, W.8. Worry beads, £15s. from The Greek Shop.

take a long look 2

Maroon herring-bone coat, £18 10s., with matching trousers, £5 by Elgee from Miss Selfridge. Ravel red patent brogues, £6 6s, Lilac velveteen shirt by John Craig, £3 12s. from Stop the Shop, S.W.3. Brown and white tweed coat, £16 10s. C & A. Paisley scarf by Richard Allan, £3 3s. Grey herringbone coat, £13 2s. 6d., matching trousers, £414s. 6d., from Bus Stop, W.B. and the new shop in Birmingham. Boots by Sacha, £7 7s. Fringed scarf by Sujon, £3 13s. 6d.

Clothes to raise his temperature

1970s, Adrian Mann, Andre Ledoux, Bernshaw, celia birtwell, christian dior, cosmopolitan, Electric Fittings, jeff banks, ossie clark, Russell & Bromley, Suliman, Uncategorized, yves saint laurent
Clothes to raise his temperature 7

Playsuit and skirt by Ossie Clark for Radley. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.

An incredible editorial, photographed in and around Nice. I dream of returning to Nice with a wardrobe full of these frocks…

Photographed by Bill King.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, November 1973.

Clothes to raise his temperature 1

Cire raincoat by Andre Ledoux. Peeptoe shoes by Saint Laurent. Sunglasses by Dior.

Clothes to raise his temperature 2

Forties dress by Jeff Banks. Perspex shoes from Russell and Bromley.

Clothes to raise his temperature 3

Dress by Bernshaw. Fur coat by John Bates for Austin Garritt. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.

Clothes to raise his temperature 4

Lurex dress by Mary Quant. Shoes by Saint Laurent.

Clothes to raise his temperature 5

Tie back jumpsuit by Electric Fittings.

Clothes to raise his temperature 6

Silk dress and jacket from The Suliman Shop.

Honey, you’ve gone too far!

1960s, celia birtwell, Francis Ford, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, James Moncur, John Craig, Michael Berkofsky, ossie clark, quorum, Steve Hiett, steven hiett, Susan Barry, Trille, Vintage Editorials

honey you've gone too far 1

The gist of this editorial seems to be that only the tinest breasted ladies can wear the Ossies, but I have to respectfully and fundamentally disagree. The Ossie tunic on the cover was, along with some matching trousers, later chosen as The Fashion Museum‘s Dress of the Year 1969.

Blonde model photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Brunette model photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, November 1968.

honey you've gone too far 2

Fluffy frilly blouse by Quorum.

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Tunic by Ossie Clark.

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Red chiffon blouse by John Craig.

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Ruffled black dress by Francis Ford.

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Low, plungey-neck dress in red satin by James Moncur.

honey you've gone too far 7

Black crepe sleeveless dress by Susan Barry.

Believe it or not, this is rainwear

1960s, anello and davide, annacat, biba, burt glinn, charles jourdan, cherry twiss, Herbert Johnson, Hilary Floyd, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, old england, ossie clark, susan small, telegraph magazine, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay
believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 1

Showerproof cotton drill jodhpur suit by Biba. Fake snakeskin hat by Herbert Johnson. Black crocodile boots by Anello & Davide.

Since PVC, macs have been exotic… now the real exotics are turning waterproof. Weekend Telegraph photographed some of the unlikely new water-shedders in Jamaica, beside the Rio Grnde and in the Land of Look Behind.

Photographed by Burt Glinn.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Telegraph Magazine, July 1967.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67

A PVC zip-up jumpsuit by Hilary Floyd modelled in Dunn’s River, Jamaica. Watch by Old England.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 2

Waterproof pigskin culottes by Cordoba Suedewear. Silk shirt by Annacat. Snakeskin waistcoat by Quorum.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 3

Hand knitted bikini by Spotlight. Trenchcoat by Weathergay.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 4

Showerproof cotton drill bermuda suit by Biba. Mock croc hat by Herbert Johnson.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 5

Canvas jacket by Andre Ledoux for Sidwall.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 6

Waterproof snakeskin brocade three-piece trouser suit by Susan Small. Crocodile Dior shoes by Charles Jourdan.

believe it or not - burt glinn - the telegraph magazine - july 67 - 7

Terylene and cotton cloak and hood by Burberrys. Tricel jersey evening dress and scarf by John Bates for Jean Varon.

Double Take

1970s, Cecil Beaton, david bailey, Inspirational Images, leonard, ossie clark, penelope tree, quorum, Vogue
double-take-2

Beautiful Tree with the mysterious Mexican Datura lily, right. Black panne velvet suit with great gathered Edwardian sleeves, a cowl and long panelled skirt; to order from Ossie Clark at Quorum.

Cecil Beaton took pictures of Penelope Tree wearing new Ossie Clarks in his Wiltshire winter garden and David Bailey filmed them both, below. Double take—like a scene from the film with Cecil Beaton as the star that David Bailey is making and everyone can see in colour on ATV early next year. When I Die I Want to Go to Vogue was Bailey’s idea of a title: nobody agreed with this. For one thing it would only reflect one aspect of the Beaton legend writer, of more than twenty books; painter, with at least five major exhibitions; designer, of just about everything—opera, ballet, theatre, film—and one-man commentator, whose eye has always focused unerringly, and wittily, on the moment—this moment.

“An epic with a cast of thousands,” says Bailey about the film. There’s Mick Jagger, Jean Shrimpton, Lord David Cecil, Nureyev, Twiggy and many, including Sir Frederick Ashton, Dr Roy Strong, Sir George and Lady Weidenfeld, David Hockney, Patrick Procktor, Ossie Clark, Celia Birtwell, Mrs Anne Fleming, Lord and Lady Harewood, Lady Antonia Fraser and Edna O’Brien, who came to the now famous party that Cecil Beaton gave, and David Bailey filmed, in his London house. “I told everyone beforehand that there would be cameras and told them not to come if they minded. Nobody did mind.” “The worst moments,” says a guest, were when you knew the cameras were not on you.” And Beaton added, It was a mixture of people all looking very interesting in their new autumn clothes. Many looked beautiful.” Beautiful Tree with the mysterious Mexican Datura lily, right. Black panne velvet suit with great gathered Edwardian sleeves, a cowl and long panelled skirt; to order. Black crepe dress, side-buttoning collar, then split, long split skirt with pleated panel, 17 gns. Both at Quorum. Victorian silver choker, Sarah Dwyer and Tony Giorgi, The Chelsea Antique Market. Hair by Celine of Leonard.

Above photographed by Cecil Beaton. Below photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, December 1970.

double-take-1

Black crepe dress, side-buttoning collar, then split, long split skirt with pleated panel, 17 gns. Ossie Clark at Quorum.

The Grand Affair

19 magazine, 1970s, antony price, art deco, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, clobber, David Tack, Inspirational Images, interiors, jeff banks, ossie clark, radley, Sidgreene, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials

Grand affairs call for grand clothes, and provide a welcome opportunity to get out of our peasant blouses and jeans and dress accordingly. The nicest thing about fashion at the moment is that everyone is so confused as to what they should be wearing, that you can wear exactly what you like. We opt for the romantic Garbo fashion, tarted up in the ’71 style, because girls are beginning to look like girls again and, although we sympathise with Women’s Lib., we don’t believe you have to look like a fella to get equal rights!

Possibly the most perfect encapsulation of the Seventies-does-Thirties aesthetic, this homage to Art Deco features some of the most lust-worthy clothes from my favourite designers and boutiques. Including Biba, Ossie Clark and some rare Antony Price for Stirling Cooper!

Photographed in the home of interior designer Graeme Gibson rather than in a studio, the authenticity is heightened by the location and the props, and then finished with the sweet illustrated photoframes.

Photographed by David Tack.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, January 1971.

grand affair 3

Crepe dress by Antony Price for Stirling Cooper. T-strap shoes from Sacha.