Just Like Granny Used To Wear

1970s, biba, bus stop, Foale and Tuffin, Hiroshi, Inspirational Images, lee bender, mary quant, ravel, telegraph magazine, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials
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Very Thirtyish, with its floral print and elbow length sleeves, a Liberty print cotton dress by Foale and Tuffin. Leather shoes by Ravel. Crochet straw hat by Biba.

Granny’s clothes are coming back. Trend-setting girls saw some time ago what pinched-in waists and long clinging crepes could do for them. Now manufacturers and boutiques have seen the potential. But beware – for it is only on the very young that granny’s clothes look very new.

Hair by Howard at Vidal Sassoon. Make-up by Yardley. Fashion by June McCallum.

Photographed by Hiroshi.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, August 7th 1970.

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Small white flowers are printed on the black background of a cotton jersey dress that granny might have worn as a girl. Designed by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. The shiny leather lace-up shoes are by Ravel.

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Far from looking old-fashioned, this printed cotton suit from Biba is beautifully up-to-date with its fitted waist, peplum and long skirt. the lace-up granny boots are from Ravel.

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Double chiffon dress for serious occasions has the dropped waistline, sash and long sleeves with scalloped trim of the Twenties. By Mary Quant’s Ginger Group.

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Printed crepe suit with a fitted shape that is a reminder of the Forties. By Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Shoes are from Ravel.

Choli Choli

1960s, Inspirational Images, Queen magazine, Savita, Stephen Bobroff, Vintage Editorials

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The waist is the place to expose for summer 1969. For dancing, for the beach, for anywhere. (But do count calories carefully!) Savita has designed a range of bared-waist outfits to set you dancing endlessly, endlessly. The tops are based on the classic Indian Choli — the small, tight top worn with the sari. Skirts can be short or long — but every time, they’re skirts to swirl and swing and sway.

Photographed by Stephen Bobroff.

Scanned from Queen, June 1969.

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There’s a big round scoop out of the back. Sleeves are below-elbow and tight, border pattern goes round the sleeves, the hem. The fabric is hand-loomed Indian cotton, which is washable and crease-resistant. Both versions cost 50 gns; both at Savita

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Short skirts, bare waists, little tight Choli tops, and fluttering, floating butterfly sleeves. All-over print or border print on handloomed Indian cotton, either costs 25 gns, at Savita, 30 Lowndes Street, SW1.

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Long skirts to flip flippantly, and the classic tight Choli bodice with tight elbow length Choli sleeves. Handloomed Indian cotton — one in a print of green and blue, the other in green and yellow and red. Both versions, 35 gns, at Savita

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And now for the amazing… Kansai Yamamoto

1970s, Boston-151, clive arrowsmith, Inspirational Images, Kansai Yamamoto, marie helvin, Sachiko Shibayama, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
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On our left, this page, the satin Samurai appliquéd on a satin polyester T-shirt, £18; with sashiko—pure black cotton,–hip shorts. Black raggedy jacket of peacock feathers, with feather chaps buckled to the legs. Black patent boots on red satin platform soles,£28.
Centre, copper satin coat covered with navy and white cotton discs filled with butterflies, zipped up side, round the armhole to the collar and down the other side. Right, sashiko with a plaid of coloured lines, a violent satin hara kiri committed on the back (switched round here), £75. Black patent boots with turquoise satin platforms, £28. Wooden comb in the hair.

… and his marvellous painted circus of clothes. Twenty-seven years old, from Tokyo, he sells these unique clothes at Boston-1.51 where they hang like brilliant puppets, all the tradition of the Japanese theatre behind them. All clothes at Boston-1 51. Kansai Yamamoto oversees them in traditional kabuki stage manager’s kimono. Make-up, by Sachiko Shibayama, who has studied kabuki make-up for eight years.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

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Above left, scarlet, black and white kimono blouse, wide skirt with dragon teeth hem, big curved belt that says “fireman!” about £95. Black patent boots on scarlet satin, £28. Centre, “Fireman’s boss” sashiko vest with scarlet words, about £30. Sashiko tied leggings. Right, spiral zipped coat flared through six orders of plaid, all crossed again with quilting, in brown, rust, blue, dark red, lined with black cotton, £30.

Red, white and you

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, bus stop, chelsea cobbler, Crochetta, harold ingram, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, John Craig, Karl Stoecker, Lizzie Carr, mr freedom, sheridan barnett, simon massey, stirling cooper, Sujon, Titfers, Vintage Editorials
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Red and white striped halter neck sweater by Crochetta. Black cotton pants by Sujon. Shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. Red leather belt from Bus Stop.

Relax in these beautiful cruise clothes. Wear your white baggy pants with red and white striped tops, cotton berets or little ‘Forties’ pull on hats. Wear white leather shoes with bows or ruched fronts and high heels. White pearls and bangles look just right this summer. This is the year of the female female, so start purring…

Photographed by Karl Stoecker

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1971.

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Red and white striped beret by Titfers. Halter neck wool sweater by Stirling Cooper. White cotton suit by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. White leather shoes from Biba. / White cotton beret by Titfers. Cotton windcheater by Lizzie Carr for Plain Clothes. White trousers by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. Striped socks by Mr Freedom. White leather shoes from Biba.

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White sailor hat by Titfers. Red and white striped halter neck and Oxford bags all in one by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. White leather shoes by Biba.

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White cotton hat by Herbert Johnson. White acrylic sweater by Harold Ingram. Blue palm tree with white lady and black tree print jacket by Stirling Cooper. White cotton bags by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. White leather sandals by Biba.

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White cotton beret by Titfers. Red cotton shirt, red and white cotton blazer and white cotton bags all by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. Red leather sandals by Chelsea Cobbler.

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White straw hat by Herbert Johnson. Navy acrylic singlet by John Craig. White cotton bags by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. White leather shoes from Biba.

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White hat by Herbert Johnson. White cotton suit, top trimmed in tartan, huge wide clown pants by Sujon. White leather shoes by Biba. Red and white scarf from Herbert Johnson.

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White angora sweater by Crochetta. White cotton bags by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. Red leather shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. Headscarf by Herbert Johnson.

Day Trippers

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, Bilbo, Chelsea Antiques Market, gordon king, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Malcolm McLaren, miss mouse, quorum, rae spencer cullen, Sex, sheridan barnett, stirling cooper, strawberry studio, terry de havilland, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vivienne Lynn, vivienne westwood
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White dress with music and rose print by Miss Mouse. Snakeskin shoes from Bilbo. Red and white spotted dress with white trimming by Miss Mouse.

Photographed in Singapore by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1975.

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Black and green floral print halterneck dress from Biba. Black and gold shoes by Sex. Green floral halterneck dress by Biba. Black and gold brocade shoes by Biba.

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Shocking pink pintucked cotton dress by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Black snakeskin shoes by Bilbo. Red cotton sack dress with hip pockets by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Red suede and snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland.

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Dusty pink sun dress with black piping by Strawberry Studio. Grey suede shoes by Terry de Havilland.

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Blue cotton dress with Dorchester motif. Coffee dress with Savoy motif, both by Jeff Banks.

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White cotton culotte dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose, Chelsea Antique Market. White cotton sun dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose.

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Navy cotton sundress with cross over straps by Gordon King.

Romantic Summer

1970s, David Wolfe, fortnum and mason, Gina Fratini, Illustrations, Vintage Adverts, Vogue

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Miss Fortnum swings into a romantic summer with Gina Fratini’s Impressionist prints. Rust midi dress, £37.50. Grey-blue medieval gown, £49.

Illustrated by David Wolfe

Scanned from Vogue, May 1971.

A Moonlight Flit

19 magazine, 1960s, Al Vandenburg, biba, Derek Roe, Dolcis, Elliott, Foale and Tuffin, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, Isadora Duncan, Ronald Keith, Shelana, Vintage Editorials
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Floppy Treebark crepe trouser suit with wide straight trousers, waist sash and large frilled collar, by Foale and Tuffin.

Run barefoot through the grass or dance under the stars. Shades of Isadora Duncan* and free, flowing movement. Long, lithe limbs leaping through loose chiffon. Wild intensity in dramatic falls of fabric. The romance of long dresses, of floating frills in transparent fabrics is yours for the asking. Come, do a moonlight flit with us…. *Isadora Duncan. who moved in high society, and whose dancing shook Edwardian England, initiated free dance movement clad in clothes which emphasised her point. We can still thank her for the romantic-looking, drifting dresses inspired by the film revival of her life story — on release in the Autumn, starring Vanessa Redgrave.

Photographed by Al Vandenburg. Hairstyles by Derek Roe.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1968.

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Dress in yellow embroidered voile by Biba.

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Transparent black and white spotted dress from Biba. Shoes by Ronald Keith.

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Tight waist-skimming jacket and knee length skirt in yellow crepe by Foale and Tuffin. Orange shoes by Elliotts.

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Flocked yellow full-skirted Dacron dress by Shelana.

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Romantic white lawn dress by Gina Fratini.  Silver shoes by Dolcis.

Where have all the flowers gone?

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bermona, biba, crowthers, florrie carr, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Richard Selby, Sacha, Sacha, Vintage Editorials
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Blooming red peonies on a navy rayon georgette dress, Florrie Carr. Flower trimmed straw hat, Crowthers. Shoes, Sacha. Rose print crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Straw hat, Bermona. Shoes, Sacha.

…To the seaside, where they’re blossoming out all over flimsy crêpe de chine summer dresses. So, if like most of us, you’re searching the shops for cool holiday clothes, now is the time to take your pick from our bunch.

Photographed by Richard Selby.

Scanned from Honey, August 1971

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Fruit and flower crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Orange suede cork soled shoes, Sacha. Pastel tulip printed crêpe de chine skirt and matching blouse, Crowthers. Criss cross suede shoes, Crowthers. Plastic and raffia choker, Adrien Mann.

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Swirling sunflower print dress in cinnamon and cream, Biba. White raffia sunhat, Herbert Johnson. Blue and white daisy patterned crêpe de chine dress, Ossie Clark for Radley. Burgundy straw hat, Biba.

Decent Exposure

19 magazine, 1970s, caroline smith, Emmanuelle Khanh, Fenwick, Illustrations, janet reger, lingerie, margit brandt, mary quant, mr freedom, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials
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Tiny cut away bra and pants both by Mary Quant.

See-through dresses and communal changing rooms call for something more flamboyant than chainstore underwear. What’s needed is a bit of…

Illustrated by Caroline Smith.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1970.

 

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White cotton jersey bra and boxer shorts printed with red stars by Mr Freedom

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Black and white delicately patterned set by Emmanuelle Khanh.

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Pink purple and black print bra and matching pants by Janet Reger. Metal armlet tied by coloured leather thongs from Mr Freedom.

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White lacey bra and white nylon culottes both from Fenwicks.

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Tiny white and grey nylon jersey bra and pants by Margit Brandt. Hand-engraved metal armbands from Mr Freedom.

Julie Christie in Fortuny

1970s, Castaldi, Fortuny, Inspirational Images, Julie Christie, Venice, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
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Apricot pleated tunic with green sleeves and cross-gartered leggings. All around, some of Fortuny’s wealth of hand-blocked velvets.

Fortuny dresses have always been collected by women who are beauties and/or intellectuals: Eleanora Duse, Sarah Bernhardt, Isadora Duncan, The Marchesa Casati Stampa, Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborough, Marie-Laure de Noailles, Mrs Gloria Cooper Vanderbilt, Anjelica Huston, Monica Vitti, and now Julie Christie, who bought Fortuny’s pink and silver dress with pleated silk side and glass buttons at a recent auction at Christie’s. Here Julie Christie borrows Fortunys from another collector, Mrs Liselotte Hohs Manera, Austrian painter and ceramist, who is married to an Italian lawyer, and one that belong to Eleanora Duse from Vern Lambert’s collection. Castaldi took the photographs in Venice, where Mariano and Henriette Fortuny lived and worked in the Palazzo Pesaro, which is now the Fortuny Museum, and where Julie Christie has been making the film Don’t Look Now, directed by Nicholas Roeg. She’ll next be seen in Uncle Vanya, on Broadway, an extraordinary production to be directed by Mike Nichols with George C. Scott an Nicol Williamson.

Photographed by Castaldi.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1973.

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Antique violet tunic and skirt pleated like a mushroom: inspired by a visit to Delphi, Mariano Fortuny and his wife, Henriette, created the fabric: Isadora Duncan was the first customer.

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Eleanora Duse’s black velvet dress printed in silver with pleated silk side panels.

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Fortuny’s velvet cloak over a pleated dress of terracotta by St Mark’s and the Doge’s Palace where it must hav swept many times before.