leonard

Twiggy and Alter Egos

1970s, Antiquarius, barbara daly, barry lategan, bill gibb, Inspirational Images, leonard, twiggy, Vignettes, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, Yuki, zandra rhodes
Twiggy as Twiggy playing up to Bill Gibb’s dress of cream lace and pink satin, separate sleeves of lace ruf-fled over the hands, pulled up over the arms under capes of scalloped frills. £300, to order at Harrods. Cream lace and rosebud posy, by Bill Gibb.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1974.

Twiggy as cool as Grace Kelly, in Zandra Rhodes’ quilted cape, bowed at the neck, with collar of stitched pink satin. To order at Fortnum & Mason. Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Twiggy as haunting as Garbo in black velvet batwings by Yuki, opposite. £220, at Fifth Avenue, Kings Road. Black velvet pillbox with ostrich plumes. £22, to order at Frederick Fox. Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Twiggy as saucy as aflapper in a swagged black beaded dress with flame roses, this page ,from a range at Maria’s Stall Vignettes at Antiquarius. The orange bead snood, from a range at Carla Sklan at Antiquarius. Sheer black Wolford tights. Black lace garter, 39p, at Fenwick. Black patent sandals, £27, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Make-up by Barbara Daly. Hair by Barry at Leonard.

Everyone’s into the Red

1970s, barbara daly, Gina Fratini, hair, Hair and make-up, leonard, Make-up, norman parkinson, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Blouses, cardigans, spotted muffler, earclips, plain beads, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

Reassess these assets—lips, cheeks, nails—strike a whole new balance, have a Red Letter Day … Here, with Estee Lauder’s new make-up.

Hair coloured by Daniel, arranged by Oliver, both at Leonard.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Norman Parkinson.

Scanned from Vogue, September 1st 1974.

Silky jersey dress by Gina Fratini. Necklaces by Butler and Wilson.

Seaglass

1970s, barbara daly, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Revlon, The White House, Titfers, Vogue

Barbara Daly for Revlon: inspired by Revlon’s Seaglass colours, she changed the shape of this summer’s face – bringing the focus between the brows with Sky Violet Shiny Eye Shadow in a Jar and Plum Shine Eye Gleamer; Charcoal Plum Brush-on Mascara on the lashes. Colour carried on to the cheeks with Luminesque Plum Cream Blusher, the rest of the skin paled with Creamy Ivory Touch & Glow Face Powder. On the lips: Seaglass Copper and Seaglass Topaz. The scent? Intimate of course, to match the pure silk satin bed jacket from The White House, New Bond St. Silver grey skull-cap by Titfers; hair hidden by John of Leonard.

Model is Susan Moncur.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.

Barbara Daly, brilliant freelance make-up artist, worked with Revlon new Seaglass colours to create, page 45, “for me, as a working class girl, the perfect fantasy”. She used violets and smudgy plums and feels muted colours will be round the eyes, contrasting with small neat mouths, darkly coloured.

That old black magic

1970s, alice pollock, alistair cowin, biba, Buckle Under, bus stop, celia birtwell, christian dior, christopher mcdonnell, corocraft, Dolcis, edward mann, Elgee, Elle, Fenwick, flair magazine, George Malyard, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Hiroshi, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jean muir, John Craig, kangol, Ken Lane, lee bender, leonard, lilley and skinner, Malyard, Marks and Spencer, marrian mcdonnell, mary quant, Miss Impact, ossie clark, quorum, Russell & Bromley, Sheraton, simon massey, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
The witching hour—smock shirt dress, white birds flying on yards and yards of transparent black georgette, Alice Pollock for Quorum, £36.75. In her hair, crescent moon £3, and a flash of lightning slide £5.25. Both from the House of Leonard.

Black, the old enchanter. Bewitching, mysterious, romantic. In velvet, satin and soft silk jersey. Dramatic alone or shouting with colour. That timeless black magic still weaves its ancient spell.

Hair by Leonard.

Photographed by Hiroshi.

Scanned from Flair, November 1971.

In best black style. Left : tailored single-breasted embossed velvet jacket, £16.75; matching skirt, £12.60; matching velvet hat £3.50. Brown tea rose, £1.05. All from Biba. Black thorn walking stick from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Right : Silver birds on black velvet blazer, £13.95, satin shirt with black cravat, £5.95; ankle length skirt, £4.95. All from Bus Stop. Sweeping ostrich feather hat by Edward Mann, £3.85.

Celia Birtwell printed Marocaine shirt by Ossie Clark for Quorum, £7.50. Red Poppies, 35p each, Fenwick.

Romantic panne velvet dress by Simon Massey, £16. White full-blown rose on black velvet ribbon, both from John Lewis. Black chenille snood, £1.95 Fenwick.

Graceful blouse with elasticated waist, over matching rayon flared skirt, £21.50 by Mary Quant. Silver diamante belt by Ken Lane, £21.50. Quant’s butterfly tights, Farfalla, 95p. Diamante paste clover leaf on black velvet ribbon, £7.90 by St Laurent Rive Gauche. Black ostrich feather, 55p Biba.

Printed shirtdress buttoned up with red hearts. By Gillian Richard, £9.50. Red heart necklace, £19 by Christian Dior. Sweeping black felt hat, by Buckle Under, £8.

For high coloured drama put black with traffic light colours : red, yellow green and strong electric blue.
Wool jersey vest by Sydica at Miss Impact, £4.90. Heart necklace from Elle, £3.75.

Cotton velveteen shirt £9.75, and culottes £7.75. By Alistair Cowin. Jersey wool shirt by John Craig, £4.80. Black leather belt, Fenwick £2.45. Suede boots banded in red, yellow and green, Lilley and Skinner £10.95. Velvet cap by Malyard £5, pinned with red star by Corocraft, 99p.

Warming up to black, in strictly daytime mood, our model wears Guerlains Teint Dore for a real tawny tint, 99p with Juvena’s Sahara Sun Blush Colour Stick as a highlighter, £1.63. Her. eyelids are coloured in Boots No 7 Transparent Eye Tint, 40p, and her lipstick is Chanel Corail, 95p.

Wrap around, tie belted wool jacket. £10.50. Over red Oxford Bags £6.50. Both by Alastair Cowin. Tartan wool man’s scarf, Scotch House £1.25. Black suede beret by Malyard, £16.

The little black dress revamped by Jean Muir in crepe de chine with puffed sleeves, demure bow and flared skirt, £21. Black suede strappy shoes, Russell & Bromley, £19.95. Sheer black tights, Mary Quant, 65p. Rhinestone star, St Laurent Rive Gauche £2.50.

Tie round black wool midi coat, topstitched in white, £22. Matching trousers, £6.25. Both by Elgee. Black and white Orlon tweedy knit tunic jumper, Marks and Spencer £2.95. Herbert Johnson knitted wool cap, £2.50.

Black wool tent coat by Stirling Cooper for Sheraton £16.95. Black wool Kangol beret, 65p. Black and plum suede lace up shoes, Dolcis £8.95. On collar, cupid heart brooch, St Laurent Rive Gauche £14.

Black wool jersey nautical blazer, £15.25, over grey and white knitted wool trouser suit, £28.25. Both by Christopher McDonnell for Marrian-McDonnell. Mock mother of pearl clips, Biba 35p each.

black velvet smoking jacket, £10.50; ankle high skirt in red, yellow and black wool tartan, £5.75. Both from Bus Stop. Cupid heart brooch, Rive Gauche £14. White shetland jumper, £5.50 Scotch House.

let your hair flame curly like this

1970s, barbara daly, barry lategan, grace coddington, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Screaming Mimi, Vogue

Ablaze with the colour of Leonard’s exclusive vegetable henna, imported from Persia, cold-wave permed with Wella Structurelle and set to frame the face. Palest skin smoothed by Barbara Daly with Angel Face Cameo All-in-One Make-Up, dusted with Translucent Light Fashion Compact, blushed with Soft Rose Blush & Gloss. Cutex Rosy Blinkers colours the eyes with Angel Face Sable Automatic Mascara. Lips shot with Cutex Wineberry Lipstick to match the iridescent Blueberry Schemer nails.

Silver flecked red blouse by Screaming Mimi, scarf by Woolworths.

Hair coloured by Daniel, permed by Sandra, styled by Celine, all at Leonard.

Model is Grace Coddington.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.

Christmas Decoration

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara daly, David Anthony, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Vivienne Lynn

Fantasy and theatre is the theme – lots of colour and glitter the focal points … Fantasy can run the whole gamut, but we like the feel of a ‘Thirties-type Hollywood pin-up pic, the soulful tragi-comic look of a clown or even a glamorous ‘Twenties flapper girl. Take your pick, and choose your own Christmas decorations.

An idea we captured from the realms of Erte, the artist and designer of the ‘Twenties – true theatrical fantasy, ideal for all your Christmas parties, a look which you can create yourself following our instructions.

Hair and the silver sequined skull cap with front forehead curl, was dressed by John at Leonard. To do this style yourself, use sequin strips (available on a card) and wrap them first round the head in a skull cap shape, making sure they sit flat, close an neatly. Leave a small strand of hair free and set it into a little curl. Then, take single hair strands, as we have done, and intertwine them with a sequin strip, like a plait.

Model is Vivienne Lynn.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by David Anthony.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1971.

The Smith Spectacular

1970s, Christopher Vane Percy, Henry Clarke, interior design, interiors, leonard, Vogue, zandra rhodes
Maxine Smith in the bedroom, where the four-poster is set on a mirrored podium. Her satin nightdress and jacket by Zandra Rhodes. Hair by Celine at Leonard.

DRESSED BY ZANDRA RHODES STAGED BY MAXINE SMITH

Maxine and Gary Smith moved to London from New York in 1971. Since then, Gary Smith, American television producer and winner of several Emmy Awards, has been working with Sir Lew Grade on television spectaculars, and Maxine Smith has been planning their London flat with Zandra Rhodes. The combination of their ideas has worked perfectly, with one taking over where the other left off. Initially, Zandra Rhodes designed a series of fabrics. Maxine Smith then had them printed to her own colour pattern by Alex McIntyre, often using the same colourway and design on different fabrics so that texture changes have been subtly worked from cotton to felt to satin. Some sur-faces are flat, others gathered – as in the hall where felt blends with draped cotton. Throughout there is an instantaneous impact of colour, wit and comfort. As one becomes accustomed to the colours, one realises that the sitting-room is designed for midnight rather than midday, the windows permanently shuttered and the curtains drawn. One notices the enormous portrait of Lenny Bruce by Gary Smith, ‘twenties’ armchairs with covered feet found by Maxine Smith in Antique City, the Vogue needlepoint cushions all worked by her mother. In the bedroom, apricot satin and taffetas with a felt print ceiling and apricot-coloured cupboards, the bed set on a mirrored podium, and covered with cushions. Other points of colour are the red telephone, the amber carpet. Next, a completely cupboarded dressing-room. Then, the apricot bathroom. Downstairs, past a neon sign—”I love Max”—and other such illuminations, to the dining-room: originally a cellar, now a brilliant blue small tent. The kitchen has dark rust-coloured prints, the ceiling hung with a thousand cooking utensils and an enormous electric lamp bulb found at Selfridges. Just off the kitchen a bar, a platform bat on steps, with three-tier cushions as bar stools, and an embroidery of Whistler’s mother by Malcolm Poynter, which came from the DM Gallery, Fulham Road. London’s galleries and off-beat furniture shops have produced many other pieces of art and amusement, some of them transformed by Zandra Rhodes’ coverings, others untouched, all with a special blend of humour and art.

Photographed by Henry Clarke.

Scanned from Vogue, late April 1975.

The downstairs bar with Malcolm Poynter’s embroidery of Whistler’s mother in the background, cushions instead of bar stools.
Two views of the sitting-room, Maxine Smith wearing a Zandra Rhodes’ dress of the same print as the walls—”The dress came first, the walls followed.” All fabrics by Zandra Rhodes, from the range at Christopher Vane Percy, 5 Weighhouse St, W.1
The garden room leading off the bar.
The hall draped with cotton print.
The blue tent dining-room with candlesticks by Carole McNicholl

The Romantic Phenomenon

1960s, celia hammond, david bailey, jean muir, leonard

How to have the best of all worlds at once, and be romantically different, dashing and gentle, nostalgic and modern. Never seen before in a contemporary context, the look, above, that is the key to so much that’s arriving in the first few months of the year: the billowy bodice brimming over with collar, the gathered shoulders letting fall sleeves as eloquent as Hamlet’s. Cinch the waist with what used to be a belt, what now can be pearls or bone or Plexi-glass, or soft wrapping cummerbunds as here. All in saffron silk crepe rippling into a richly pleated maxi-length skirt. By Jean Muir, £47 19s. 6d, from the 31 Shop at Harvey Nichols. Gentle glossy hair, waved and caught by a slide of pale coloured pearls, by Leonard. Dreamy Germaine Monteil make-up, by Gordon at Leonard.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, January 1968.

How You Dress is an Escape

1970s, anne schaufuss, baccarat, belinda bellville, bill gibb, charles jourdan, chelsea cobbler, Chloe, christian dior, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, jean shrimpton, Jorn Langberg, karl lagerfeld, kurt geiger, leonard, Moya Bowler, Nettie Vogues, pablo and delia, Savita, The Purple Shop, thea porter, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes
DEPTHS OF EVENING CHIFFON,
CAFTAN AND DIRNDL DRESS
MERGED WITH GOLD AND VELVET
Above: Tobacco chiffon caftan with smoked gold leaves, hooded, boot-buttoned, Arabic sleeves weighted with tassels. Gathered from the waist with a twisted gold rope belt. Choker, The Purple Shop, 15 Flood St, S.W.3. Soft gold boots with open lacing, 22 gns, Kurt Geiger. Right: Black organza with a bib and skirt of brilliant panne velvet, red, green and yellow printed in ribbon bands, with bangles and cuffs of the velvet. Rings, Andrew Grima. Beaded black velvet choker, The Purple Shop. Black satin ankleboots, with bright passementerie, by Moya Bowler for Edouard Jerrold. Dresses, both pages, to order at Bellville Sassoon.

How you dress is an escape and an adventure in itself… never more so than the evening.

Hair by Leonard

Models are Anne Schaufuss and Jean Shrimpton.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1970.

SHEER BLACK OF NIGHT,
WISPS PUT TOGETHER WITH
JEWELS, VELVET AND GLEAMS
Black chiffon blouse and skirt tiled with cut velvet mosaic. Blouse of velvet harlequins, bibbed with jet beads set in little studs of gilt; the skirt, striped with studded circles and squares. £184, at Thea Porter. Feather fan, to hire at The Purple Shop. Satin shoes, dyed to order, £18, dyeing, 21s, Charles Jourdan.
Black chiffon dress with a glittering apron tied around the skirt — turquoise and rusty velvet shapes shot with silver, with a striped hem, and cuffs to match. By Chloe, to order from Fortnum & Mason. Mirror necklace, £70, and gold sash clasped with turquoises, 140, both from Thea Porter. Rings, David Morris. Black velvet laced boots, 19 gns, from Kurt Geiger
KNICKERBOCKER BALLET ALL SURFACES RIPPLED WITH COLOUR AND SHINE
Grass green silk satin glossed with an intricate paisley of red, ink, black, tremendous sleeves and tunic gathered from a yoke over ballooning knee pantaloons. 85 gns; choker 25 gns, and belt, 58 gns, all at Savita. Green moire boots, 18 gns, at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Water markings, waves of colour pooled in a chiffon blouse honeycombed at the shoulders, antique tunic and panne velvet knickers. The tunic has a fitted bodice, full sweeping skirt. Blouse, £59, tunic, £75, knickers £24, heavy silver belt, £100, all Thea Porter. Burgundy velvet boots laced to knee, 19 gns, Kurt Geiger. Rings, Blooms. Chokers, The Purple Shop, 15 Flood St, S.W.3. Make up by Lancome, with Climat scent.
A NEW SLEEVE
CUT ACROSS NARROW FALLS
OF GOLD LACE
AND CLOUDY CHIFFON
Spun gold laced with mauve, the bodice cut wide into the sleeves. sashed with deep purple velvet above a basque and a gathered skirt. By Jorn Langberg from Christian Dior London. Amethyst string and brooch, at Blooms: rings. Hooper Bolton. Satin shoes dyed mauve. £18. 21s for dyeing at Charles Jourdan. Amethyst tights. Mary Quant. Make-up by Dior. with new Dioressence scent.
The bodice sleeve in chiffon, clouds of mauve blowing across. The top crossed low over the bosom and simply gathered at wrists. slight gathers in the skirt catchir the air. By Nettie Vogues, at Harrods: Hilda Hanson. Nottingham. Velvet choker. The Purple Shop at Antiquarius. Amethyst and diamond rings. Blooms; emerald and diamond ring. David Morris. Make-up by Orlane, with Jean d’Albret Casaque scent.
GLORIOUS NIGHT SHAPES.
TAPESTRY BELLS
AND SATIN PAGODA
Misty blue tapestry and gold leaves. left. edged with wide ribbons of sprigged tapestry. A gold thread laces the deep neck of a small jacket belling from the Yoke, with short arabesque sleeves. Fade-print chemise underneath, with full sleeves and crossed braid ; a slim bell for a skirt. By Bill Gibb for Baccarat, at Fortnum & Mason. Pearly black velvet choker, The Purple Shop at Antiquarius. Tangerine braid decorations, from Savita. Rings, Andrew Grima. Honey-gold and gilt velvet slippers, 20 gns, to order, The Chelsea Cobbler. Make-up by Eve of Roma, with the new Eve scent.
Sunset burst of satin, right, a pagoda of quilted tiers, wide sleeves set up to a bib bodice. Feather-print of celestial blue and of black for sun-rays. By Zandra Rhodes, at Fortnum & Mason. Diamond and blue enamel rings, at Blooms. Neck lace stringing pale beads and colourless feathers, by Pablo & Delia. Make-up by Mary Quant with P.M. scent.

Bloom More Brilliantly Than Your Dresses

1970s, barbara daly, barry lategan, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, salvador, Vogue
…it takes make-up.

Revlon’s make-up. Creamy Ivory Touch & Glow Liquid Make-up, and Frosty Sienna Blush-On so that it shows. Touch & Glow Translucent Powder dusted on and dusted of again. Eyes outlined with Midnight Blue Liquid Eyeliner. Black Super Rich Mascara for lashes. Lemon Frost merged into Meadow Green Super Rich Eye Shadows. Charcoal Grey Fineline Pencil for brows. Copper Coral Lipstick, brush-outlined for cut-out clear edges.

Make-up artist, Barbara Daly; hair by Nick at Leonard.

Herbaceous silk chiffon dress, with chiffon rose necklet, by Salvador, about £150, Liberty.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, February 1975.