Yellow vibrations, sun crepe printed with black and green, cut out at shoulders, frilled like a waterfall down tight sleeves; 15 gns. All clothes by Ossie Clark at Quorum, 113 King’s Rd.
Look at summer through new eyes. Ossie Clark sees you in shepherdess smocks of voile, in long crepe dresses, reed-thin red or printed by Celia Birtwell. Pattie Boyd looks at it her way. All at Quorum.
Photographed by David Bailey.
Scanned from Vogue, June 1969.
I think this editorial might be one of the first I ever scanned, back in even my pre-blog days. I may have posted it on MySpace (don’t judge me, I feel ancient enough as it is). I’ve been meaning to properly rescan for years, but finally the time seemed right. It is the perfect combination of designer, model, photographer and a stunning use of Pre-Raphaelite imagery.
Cloud white voile, left, with apple green and peach, a shepherdess shirt, about £8 14s. 6d, matching skirt, about £10 8s. 6d to order.
Gentle beige smock, below, with crepe yoke, half sleeves above long voile cuffed sleeves; body beige, too, with olive and orange; 142 gns.
Flame red crepe dress, below, wrapped round and tied behind, with dragon fin sleeves, long and slender, a potent mixture of enchantment; 12 gns. Scarf by Celia Birtwell. High collar, £3 5s, from selection at London Docks, Munro Terrace.
Despite the distractions, Chichi hangs on to her hat and her colouring book, wears a lucky tarot card print poncho top, £25, and mid-calf skirt, £20, by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Bangles chosen from a selection at Adrien Mann.
In clothes we dare you to wear!
Make a name for yourself in 1974. Be an inspiration, a focal point, an innovator. Paint a positive future and make January a beautiful time. Experiment with colours. Branch out and try some totally different styles. Don’t go along with the rest of the girls—start up your own school, you’ll soon have plenty of followers. Begin by studying your best points, then set about accentuating them. If your skin gleams, show it off; if your waist is small, cinch it; if your legs are great, make certain that they are seen. The clothes here are not cheap, but like every good artist it’s vital to invest in good materials for long-lasting results. They will be appreciated for a long time to come ...
Styling by Penny Graham.
Photographs by Bill King.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1974.
I do love some equal opportunities Mild Sauce. These clothes are amongst some of my most coveted pieces, especially that outrageously plunging back John Bates dress. If you thought that McQueen invented the ‘bumsters’, remember that someone else has always got there first!
Make a strong statement. Frame your back with this year’s most dramatic scoop. Chichi in a clinging dress with pointed mediaeval sleeves—by John Bates for Jean Varon, £62.95.
Between sittings is no time to collapse. Chichi slips into something small and adds a rope of pearls for that Ritz- y finish. Camiknickers by Janet Reger, £15; pearls from Ciro.
Chichi makes the perfect portrait in a spider’s web dress dangerous enough to trap any hot-blooded male. Dress by John Bates for Jean Varon, £39.
A switch of scenery, a new source of inspiration. Chichi wrapped romantically in a glamorous film star dressing gown by Janet Reger, £48.
The painted lady. Chichi switches roles and dances a wild tarantella. The sleeves are pulled off the shoulders for an abandoned gipsy look. Silk dress by Angela Salmon for The Prop Shop, £85.
And who better than Maudie James, demonstrating here, exactly how she shapes and colours her face:
1 Starting with shining clean skin (thanks to Pond’s Cold Cream), she dabs on Mary Quant’s Skin Drink and blends it in.
2 Max Factor’s Nouveau Beige Pan Stick goes on with a small damp sponge giving a smooth ‘finish, covering tiny blemishes.
3 Several coats of Boots No 7 Black Block Mascara intensifies but does not cake upper and lower lashes.
4 Blackened lashes are curved to sweep up and out with eyelash curlers (45p from Boots).
5 Each eyelash is separated to look natural.
6 Eyelids coloured with Caran d’Ache purple pencils (Nos 110 and 120) blended up to the brows.
7 Short feathery lines drawn with Caran d’Ache pencil (No 80) outline the cheekbones.
8 And are then blended in towards the nose to make a soft rose-pink blush.
9 Caran d’Ache pencil (No 80) outlines then fills the lips with colour.
10 Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream glossed over lips with a brush—for protection and shine.
11 Biba’s Mascara Brush neatens the eyebrows.
12 The look: face dusted with Boots No 7 Nearly Natural compact Powder; hair: shining with Wella’s Shampoo and Lemon Creme Rinse.
Photographed by Patrick Hunt.
Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.
Dress: brilliant silk chiffon by Ossie Clark for Quorum, print by Celia Birtwell, £45, from new Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, S.W.3; Just Looking, Knightsbridge, S.W.1; Hedgehog, 135 Fulham Road, S.W.7.
Beige cotton swagger-back jacket with contrasting collar and turn-back cuffs £12 ; beige short-sleeved cotton button-through shirt £6-50; extra wide cotton Oxford bags £8, all by Ian Batten for Stirling Cooper, from 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at branches of Peter Robinson. Bug brooch, Butler & Wilson £4-50; thin gilt snake neck chain, Miss Selfridge 75p; ivory bangles £5 each from Butler & Wilson.
Something like these easy-to-wear, soft crêpe or finely knitted swing-back duster jackets, teamed with wide lounging trousers or slit pencil skirts. They’re cool, casual and chic—easily the most comfortable outfits around.
Photographed by Gilles Ben Simon.
Scanned from Honey, May 1973.
Grey crêpe swagger-back jacket with faint white stripe and wide front revers £8.95, worn with matching trousers £7.95, both by Lee Bender for Bus Stop from all branches of Bus Stop, (mail order 25p from 3 Kensington Church Street W8). Acrylic and linen knitted sleeveless top with gathered bust detail, Outlander £4.60, from Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1 (mail order 15p) ; Beige, Oxford Street, W1 ; Sheila Worth, New Bond Street, W1 ; Stephen Tremayne, Walton-on-Thames ; Samuel Cooper, Wilmslow. Egg-shaped bead necklace, Adrien Mann 90p ; cream and black elasti-cised plastic bracelet, Gay Designs £3.50 ; thin white bangle, Paul Stephens 17p.
Acrylic and linen knitted jacket with wide turn-back sleeves £10.30, and matching vest with stripes on the bust £4.20, both by Outlander, from main branches of Wallis ; Fenwicks, Bond Street, W1 (mail order 20p) ; Sheila Worth, New Bond Street, W1 and branches. Crêpe lounging trousers, Alice Pollock for Quorum £8 approx, from Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3, Heath Street, Hampstead, NW3, and their shops at branches of Peter Robinson. Gilt and silver necklace, Miss Selfridge £1.45 ; thin gilt snake neck chain, Miss Selfridge 75p; deco clip worn as earring, Universal Witness 25p; white plastic bangle, Paul Stephens 17p ; gilt and silver bracelet, Miss Selfridge 70p ; thin plastic bangles, Paul Stephens 10p.
Black and white knitted vest top with wide straps and big white button detail £1.95 approx, with matching wide-sleeved duster jacket £4.95, both by Glynn Manson, from Goodban Ltd, Chiswick, W4; Brown & Phillips, Deal; Townrows, Braintree; Avannes, Edinburgh. Tight white Trevira pencil skirt with large black buttons and front slit, C & A £2.75, from main branches of C & A. White crochet pull-on hat, Edward Mann £2.60; black 1920s bug brooch, Butler & Wilson £4.50; black and white cylindrical bead choker, Adrien Mann, £1; black and cream checkered elasticised bracelet, Butler & Wilson £3; thin bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each; tights, Mary Quant 40p.
Crepe-de-chine jacket with large front patch pockets, cuffed sleeves and own tie belt, Suzy Craker for Roger Nelson £12 approx, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8; Stock, High Holborn, WC1 ; Coundown, King’s Road, SW3. Acrylic and linen finely knitted long-sleeved sweater, Outlander £3.60 ; silver and cream brooch, Dando at Antiquarius £2.50.
Grey and white polka-dot crêpe swagger-back jacket £8.95, and matching wide trousers £7.95, both from all branches of Bus Stop. Finely striped long-sleeved beige and white sweater, Outlander £4.50, from main branches of Wallis; Dickins Et Jones, Regent Street, W1 (mail order 15p) ; Image, Bath. Thin brown patent belt and thin white patent belt, Gay Designs 69p each; cream plastic egg-shaped bead choker 90p, and small white glass bead necklace £1.60, both by Adrien Mann ; plastic bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each; thin metal bangles, Corocraft 69p; grey clip earrings, Paul Stephens 25p.
Rust, cream and brown Madras check cotton duster suit with white elasticated trim, Jakie Ross for Jon Elliot, trousers £7.90, jacket £9.90, both from Merle, Thurloe Street, SW7; Goodshop Lollipop, Gloucester Road, SW7; Sidney Smith, King’s Road, SW3 (mail order 25p) ; The Klink, Peckham. Black and white plastic leaf necklace, Adrien Mann, £1.50 ; black and cream chequered elasticated bracelet, Butler & Wilson £3 plain ivory bangles, Butler & Wilson £5.50 each.
Rose-printed satin 30s tea gown, £12 from a selection at Joanna’s Fleamarket, Carnaby Street, W1.
Get ready for a gorgeous full-blown rosy. summer. Everything is covered in roses: long floaty `tea dresses’, short and sweet frocks, soft gathered blouses, crisp cotton shirts—roses are even screen-printed onto angora sweaters. In fact, there’s sure to be a rosy outlook ahead for everyone!
Photographed by Roy A. Giles.
Scanned from Honey, April 1973.
White and pink angora sweater, Radley £5.50, from Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3; all branches of Peter Robinson. Pendant, Adrien Mann 80p; embossed bangle, City Lights £3.50.
Soft faded red and yellow rose printed chiffon 1940s midi dress with gently pleated skirt £12, from a selection at Joanna’s Fleamarket, Carnaby Street, W1; natural straw floppy hat, Bermona, .11.50; speckled glass bead necklace, 75p; plastic rose carved bangle, 30p; wide plastic bangle, 45p; all by Paul Stephens.
Old fashioned sweet pea and rose Liberty-printed cotton shirt, Universal Witness £8.95, from Universal Witness, Fulham Road, SW3; Lord John, King’s Road, London SW3 (mail order 20p extra). Straw and organza panama hat with rose trimming, Barnetat £3.30. Plastic bangle. Paul Stephens 30p.
Scatterd with roses, cotton puff-sleeved overblouse with tie waist and gathered yoke, Jap at Joseph £12 approx, from Joseph, 33b King’s Road, SW3 (mail order 25p extra). Straw bowler, Diane Logan, £6, decorated with flowers from a selection at John Lewis; carved rose plastic bangle, Paul Stephens 30p.
Exotic sugar pink, cream and green rose-printed puff-sleeve cotton-lawn blouse and gathered Oxford bags, Electric Fittings £16 approx, from Conspiracy, Kensington High Street, W8 (mail order 25p). Natural straw hat, Bermona £1.50; perspex and rose embossed bangle, City Lights £2.75; fan, Habitat 15p.
There was dancing in the aisles when Ossie Clark showed his autumn ’74 collection at the Chelsea Theatre where “The Rocky Horror Show” is drawing the crowds. Pattie Harrison was one of the models. Marianne Faithfull made a finale appearance.
Gold fabric, wrapped round head, from Cornucopia, from £4.50. Striped blouse, £25. Striped skirt, £14. Pants, with large spots and stars, £20. All by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. All costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft, from £1. Sequins on head from any haberdashery department.
With the aid of a ballet dancer and delicately hand-coloured pictures, we stepped into the magical world of Russian ballet. recapturing the ethereal beauty and charm of ballet at its greatest … a world so unreal and yet so pleasing to recreate for a special occasion.
Make-up by Kirsty Klimo.
Photographed by James Wedge.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1975.
Scarves round head. from Cornucopia. from £1.50. Satin pyjamas. with marabou trim. by Charles Grahame. £35. Pink embroidered waistcoat, £9. Painted net petticoat. £5. Both from Nostalgia. Satin ballet pumps. by Anello And Davide. £2.70. Heavy beaded belt, from The Warehouse. £22.50. All costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft from £1. Plume and ribbons used to tie bottoms of pants from any haberdashery department.
Large piece of gold fabric round head, from Cornucopia. from £4.50. Red chiffon layered dress, with red petticoat (sequin-tied to form harem pants), by Sheridan Barnett, £100. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. Long, multi-coloured chiffon stole, from Cornucopia. from £20. Ribbon round head and ropes of sequins tied round dress bottom from any haberdashery department. Beads round wrist, from Adrien Mann from £1.
Sequin cap, from Cornucopia. from £8. Green top, £9.95. Harem pants. £12.95. Both by Strawberry Studio. Satin ballet pumps, by Anello And Davide, £2.70. Striped chiffon scarf. from £2.50. Multi-coloured tasselled silk scarf. from £8. Both from Cornucopia. Gold lacy scarf, tied round arm, from Nostalgia. from £4. Costume jewellery by Adrien Mann and Corocraft. from £1.
Pink and wild coat is hooded and all set to trap the unwary male. Borg coat by Henry Lehr, £17.50, trousers by Sujon, £9.50. His coat by C & A in suedette, £13.95. Hat by Locke, £5.25.
. . . or how to wear furs this winter without hurting your pet’s feelings.
There is nothing, absolute nothing quite like wrapping yourself in fur. As a sensuous experience, it is in the same class as a new love, old champagne or fresh truffles. But even the most hedonistic of women are relieved that the threatened species are no longer imported. Snow leopards, tigers and other cats can go their own way and sensibly sybaritic female will look for furs that are farmed, such as fox and mink. This winter, too, the fakes are so wayout and wildly coloured that only a girl without a heart could resist their charms, albeit synthetic. Perhaps that’s why the fur trade have taken the hint and dipped their favourite fox pelts in the dye pot, Furrier Maxwell Croft offers his explanation of the female urge to wear and the male urge to bestow furs: “For many men it is a primitive desire to see his woman in furs.”. Very nice,too.
Plenty to scoff at the end of the copy there, but oh goodness the clothes – the clothes! And the glorious photography of Alice Springs, whose work doesn’t turn up nearly enough for my liking.
Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.
Photographed by Alice Springs.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, November 1972.
Kissin’ cousin to a polar bear, but lots slimmer, is this smashing white shaggy coat. Wear it with white flannel bags, an angora sweater and an even shaggier hat. Well-cut coat in Borg with stitched suede edges. By Marie France for Quorum, £36, Ossie Clark trousers £14, sweater £4. Hat by Diane Logan, £5, shoes from Sacha £7.99. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Mike’s coat from Just Men, £70. Trousers from Aquascutum, £14.50.
The shaggiest coat story of the season-outrageous powder pink number, worn over pink striped sweater and pleated skirt. The dog is also fake, Chi Chi’s own and christened Fifi by Mike. Borg coat by Biba, £15, sweater by Reldan £3.33, skirt by Crowthers £5.75. Beads by Loewe.
Chi Chi turns her back on the world in scooped dress by John Bates for Jean Varon, £22. White shaggy jacket in Lister’s synthetic, £13.75 by Weathergay. Photographed at Julie’s Restaurant, 135 Portland Rd, London W11 (01-22) 8331).
How to have that movie-star feeling. If you want the big star treatment – breakfast at Tiffany’s, diamonds as big as the Ritz – dress like a star in electric blue fox. Dress by Elle, £15. Fox coat by Dinni for Femina Furs, £295. Moonstone necklace at Butler and Wilson. His outfit by Aquascutum. Velvet jacket £38.50, shirt £10.50, cuff links from £3 50, trousers £12.50
Tea for two. Mike makes up to Chi Chi (that’s the model girl, not the coat) in her shaggy yellow number, worn with shiny striped shirt and mustard bags. Borg coat by Marie France for Quorum £23.50, shirt by Medusa £5.50, trousers by Sujon £9.50. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Photographed at The Royal Garden Hotel, London.
Enough to drive a man wild-a nutty fake fur, above right, with Fifties shoulders and swing back. Wear it nicely over mustard crêpe de chine shirt and peg-top trousers. Both by Sujon, shirt £13, trousers £9.50. Borg coat by Biba £25, beret, Diane Logan, £4.50, shoes, Sacha, £7.99. His coat, Aquascutum, £70, trousers C & A £3 95.
Enough to make Morgan the gorilla, jealous. (Remember A Suitable Case For Treatment?) Emerald green gorilla jacket in real-life Borg by Weathergay, £9.50 (right). Worn over slinky knit sweater and skirt from Ritva, £27 for the outfit. Blue shaggy beret by Diane Logan, £4.50. Mike’s sweater in blue and silver by Ritva, £18.50. Trousers from C & A £5.50.
Jealous cats show their ruffled furs. Chi Chi and Belinda act out the classic movie-star confrontation in their sequins and furs, Chi Chi in pleated taffeta with sequin bodice by Anne Tyrell for John Marks, £23.95; her boa is silver fox, ranch bred, price £70. Belinda’s fox is red, also from the ranch, price £45, both by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs. Strapless top and trousers by Miss Mouse, £20. Beads by Loewe.
Long dress with side pleats and sash tie at back, in black marocain flower print, red poppies at the neck.
OSSIE CLARK, twenty-nine, designs clothes that would be right up the street for the woman whose profession is the oldest in the world. There’s nothing Woman’s Lib. here, thank you. His twelfth collection is outlandishly, gloriously and candidly tarty. But tarty in the ’40s and early ’50s sense of dressing: brazen, glamorous, passion-ately female. The cut of the clothes is masterful. The old black magic is there. Jazzy sequins. Star insets. High wedge heels. Ankle straps. Bias cut crepe. Oodles of pleats. Blowsy tulips and full-blown poppy prints. Plus black, and lots of it. You name it—it’s there, superbly executed.
Fabrics include new prints on marocain by Ossie’s wife, Celia Birtwell. Hairdos evoke memories of Rita Hayworth & Co. And contours are as they should be: breasts (bra-less), waists, hips and bottoms are all back in their rightful place — and proud of it. Ossie’s new clothes are as scarlet womanish as they are beautiful and witty. When you wear them you automatically adopt a Monroe wiggle.
Top price for a frock from his collection is £150, but around a fiver will buy you a printed crepe shirt. You may not be able to take this look seriously — but it will probably influence the way you dress next season. For Ossie’s secret as a designer is that his tarty vamps keep chic and never look cheap, jaded, or just plain common.
Photographed here are a selection of Ossie’s new clothes.
All enquiries for stockists and prices to Quorum Wholesale, 6 Burnsall Street, SW3.
Modelled by Kari-Ann Muller.
Hair by Richard at Maximillian.
Shoes by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, SW3, from £17.75.
Photographed by Peter Rand.
Scanned from Flair, August 1971.
Red and green strawberry embroidery on black crepe Oxford bags, matching waistcoat and jacket and red blouse.
A Long, black, marocain dress side pleats, printed with pink and green begonias.
A black marocain multi-coloured flower print dress with suede halter bib trimmed with ric-rac.
Red, blue and green poppy and daisy print on black marocain hour-glass dress.
Red crepe off-the-shoulder dress (with strawberry embroidered 11″ jacket, not shown).
Left: White cotton edged with red, lots of frills tied up with bandanna bows. By Rosie Bradford, about £15, at Quorum; Che Guevara. Fine white straw, £10, Herbert Johnson. White ribbed gloves, Kir, 75p. Red and white striped canvas shoes laced onto a high wooden platform, £12.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Right: Three deep cotton frills and a halter bodice edged and tied in red. By Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey, £9.95. Small white straw, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Peppermint earrings and clips by Adrien Mann, about £1, at Marshall & Snelgrove. White block and string shoes, £7.75, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Helanca gloves, Kir, 75p. Hat pins, from a selection at The Purple Shop.
more of it, less of it, what there is of it, frilled.
Preview of new white shapes you’ll be seeing when the sun’s hot: all cut out, cropped or split, beginning with flamenco frills piped in with red.
Well, it may not be May any more but this editorial feels perfect for the current weather. And those Manolo Blahnik for Zapata shoes? Pass the smelling salts…
Hair by John at Leonard.
Photographed at the Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens
Photographed by Peter Knapp.
Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.
Left: Small cotton broderie anglaise blouse under the shelter of a big frilled collar, with a thin gabardine skirt split front and back. Blouse, Stirling Cooper, £4.25, at Peter Robinson. Skirt, Screaming Mimi, £6.50, exclusively for Granny Takes a Trip. White Openwork Helanca gloves, Kir, 80p, at Dickins & Jones. White shoes, £7, Bilbo. Hat, £10, Herbert Johnson. Right: Buttoned padded halter bodice, edged and buttoned in scarlet. White pleated Colonial cotton shorts, buckled each side. Bodice by Rosie Bradford, about £7, at Quorum ; Che Guevara. Shorts, £5.95, Bus Stop. White patent shoes, £16.50, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. White straw, £11.50, Herbert Johnson. Hat pins from range, The Purple Shop.
Wide wide cotton trousers gathered on elastic, a gathered cotton halter top, the edge let go to frill. By Pablo & Delia, £18, at Browns. White peep-toe shoes, £7, detachable bow £1 extra, at Bilbo. Hat, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Earrings, Adrien Mann. Laced cuffed Helanca gloves by Kir, 75p, at Derry & Toms
Liz Eggleston 